The 2026 Giro d'Italia is just around the corner, so it's the perfect time to build up the excitement for the iconic Grand Tour race with a new five-part docuseries.

Giro d'Italia: Dreaming in Pink takes cycling fans deep inside the peloton by showing them the race from the perspective of the riders battling it out in the 2025 edition of the iconic event.

Britain's Simon Yates (Visma-Lease a Bike) won the general classification to claim his second overall Grand Tour triumph, but the documentary focuses on much more than just the top step of the podium.

From regular flashbacks to the feats and champions of the past to incredible footage of legendary climbs and iconic cycling landmarks, Giro d'Italia: Dreaming in Pink celebrates everything special about La Corsa Rosa.

Below, Cycling Weekly has laid out all the key information on how to watch Giro d'Italia: Dreaming in Pink online or – if you're away from home – from wherever you are.

Can I watch Giro d’Italia: Dreaming in Pink for free?

Giro d’Italia: Dreaming in Pink is only available on HBO Maxin the US, so it cannot be streamed for free. Prices start from $10.99/month.

How to watch Giro d’Italia: Dreaming in Pink while abroad

If you’re outside the US and want to watch Giro d’Italia: Dreaming in Pink, geo-restrictions can make it hard to watch, but a VPN offers an easy workaround. It lets your device appear as if it is in another country so you can access your usual streaming services (as long as it complies with broadcaster terms). VPNs also improve security and can boost playback speeds.

Among the many options, TechRadar ranks NordVPN as the best overall for streaming, security, and value.

Want to know more about VPNs? We have an explainer on the benefits, costs, and considerations of using a VPN...
– Should I use a VPN to watch cycling?

Have a read and see if you fancy giving one a go. Beware: not all VPNs work for streaming, so it's worth going for a trusted recommendation. We use NordVPN and find it to be fastest and most reliable option.

How to watch Giro d’Italia: Dreaming in Pink in the UK

Giro d’Italia: Dreaming in Pink is not yet available on the UK version of HBO Max, with only the US site currently showing the docuseries.

If we hear anything about a UK release, we will let you know right here.

If you're in the UK but a subscriber to the US version of HBO Max, you can still watch the show by using a VPN.

How to watch Giro d’Italia: Dreaming in Pink in the US

Giro d'Italia: Dreaming in Pink is out now on the US version of HBO Max, with prices starting from $10.99/month.

If you want to watch actual races on HBO Max you will need the Standard plan ($18.49/month)

What to expect from Giro d’Italia: Dreaming in Pink

The docuseries celebrates the Giro, its legacy, and the country it crosses, while powerfully conveying the intensity of the competition—where effort, tactics, and adrenaline define every moment.

Stage by stage, riders tackle legendary climbs and iconic cycling landmarks, which spark narrative flashbacks built from archival footage. The feats and champions of the past—from Marco Pantani to Maurizio Fondriest to Francesco Moser—come back to life, interwoven with the present-day race.

The series is rich in emotion and drama, from the fight for the Maglia Rosa to stage battles set against some of Italy’s most iconic landscapes: from the trulli of Alberobello to the seafront of Naples, from the Leaning Tower of Pisa to the white roads of Siena, culminating in the finish at Piazza del Campo.

Then come the great mountains that define Giro history—Bormio, the Mortirolo, the Colle delle Finestre—where cycling legends were made. After a dramatic final twist, a springtime Rome welcomes the riders for a spectacular finale that, for the first time ever, brings the Giro into the Vatican, where the newly elected Pope Leo XI steps into the square to greet the riders.

We test and review VPN services in the context of legal recreational uses. For example: 1. Accessing a service from another country (subject to the terms and conditions of that service). 2. Protecting your online security and strengthening your online privacy when abroad. We do not support or condone the illegal or malicious use of VPN services. Consuming pirated content that is paid-for is neither endorsed nor approved by Future Publishing.

It’s mid-afternoon and Emily Willcox is in Richmond Park practising to clip-in. She’s come here, to London’s largest royal park, because it’s wide open and safe. It’s all she sees on Instagram too, videos and videos of cyclists riding expensive bikes in perfect outfits, lapping the park for fun.

Willcox is the kind of person who goes all-in on new skills. Once she’d decided to aim for a half Ironman, she went straight to Sigma Sports to buy a mid-range road bike, with all the extra trimmings. She swapped out the seat, got the handlebars adjusted to her size and took herself off to learn.

"I'm one of these crazy people who, if I have an idea I want to do something, I'm just going to do it," she tells Cycling Weekly.

"Learning how to use cleats is quite daunting. The worst part is when you come up to traffic lights and if you haven't gone in or out yet, you're falling off. You see it all happening, and then you just have to accept it."

But Willcox isn’t your regular beginner-cyclist. She is a 25-year-old fitness and lifestyle influencer. Her content ranges from running videos to the latest lamentation on the state of the London dating scene, all narrated with tongue-in-cheek humour that allows her to cut to the heart of the topic she’s talking about. She could so easily merge into that peloton of seamless Richmond Park riders were it not for her commitment to telling the unbridled truth – however brutal.

"Before you start cycling, there are a few things you should know," Willcox says to her 641,000 Instagram followers over a delicate piano soundtrack.

One of the first lessons Willcox found was that cycling, for the uninitiated, can appear to be a world of codes. In this new world, riding with a backpack was unforgivably uncool and wearing a black helmet a fashion faux pas. God forbid you keep your 'dork disc' attached.

But finding a group to go cycling with, to demystify this coded landscape, was a more daunting task.

An accomplished runner, Willcox has built a business off sport and clubs, in part through the progress it’s allowed her to unlock and in part through her wry commentary of the hotties in attendance. (Didn’t you know? Run clubs are the new dating apps.)

"You have some elitist run clubs that are like, we run fast if you don't run fast then join another run club, but a lot of kind of just normal social run clubs will have different tiers, so you can run in three different pace groups, so you can at least gauge how fast it's going to be," Willcox explains.

"I don't feel like that happens in cycling. You kind of have a route and then it's like, see you on the other side! If you get left behind, there’s no-one coming back for you. I think it's quite hard to just rock up to a cycling club you've never been to and feel like you're welcomed."

Willcox has since found cycling cafes to go to, which offer more low-key group ride outs, but cycling's image problem remains. The stereotype persists: if you’re not a man – a fast man at that – it’s not really for you. I know, because I feel it too.

I first came across Willcox in July 2025, when she released a video of her getting a Specialized Allez Disc Sport bike adjusted to her size.

"Cycling is a white man’s sport," she declared over the top of a video recording her leaving her house. "At least that’s what I would have told you this time last month had you asked me to willingly slide into lycra and straddle a carbon torture device in the name of self improvement."

The video shifts to Willcox on the bike, getting the adjustments made to her handlebars, before she continues: "Truthfully, it’s rare to see black women represented in cycling at all seems, so by default I’m already an icon."

The comments flanking the video roll into the hundreds; messages of support interspersed with laughing emojis and a growing number of other Black women describing their love of cycling:

"We're happy to have you, welcome to the party!" wrote @Lumes.cc. And as Willcox met more people in the cycling community, as her friends felt motivated to dust off their bikes and join her on the road, her perception of the sport changed. A community started to grow.

"I think that we should just all make more of an effort to be kind," Willcox says, now herself on the other side of beginner, at ease with cleats and headed for some cycling in the South African sun. "Especially people with entry level. Everyone has a starting point, and learning something new as an adult is actually scary, and people that think they're elite cyclists should maybe just be nicer and help other people.

"I think cycling is great. I think more people would enjoy it if they realise that you can do it at any level. So I think the other thing is, anyone can actually start this, and it's maybe just about having the permission to try it. Some people need a little push."

Outdoor riding gives you freedom, but indoor riding gives you efficiency. It’s great for uninterrupted workouts and removes concerns about weather, traffic, logistics and daylight. Yet it also brings its own set of aches: neck and hand fatigue that sets in early, knees that twinge sooner, saddle sores even if you usually don’t suffer from them and, of course, boredom.

Phil Burt sees this every winter. The former Head of Physiotherapy for British Cycling and longtime Team Sky consultant has spent decades solving the problems of some of the world’s best riders. From Bradley Wiggins, Chris Hoy, and Mark Cavendish to Richie Porte, Wout Poels, Ian Boswell and Mikel Landa — Burt has worked with them all, and then some.

But lately, he’s turned his attention to the unique demands of riding and racing indoors. The stationary, trainer-tethered kind, that is.

“Indoor cycling is different to outdoor cycling,” he says. “We have to start to recognise that.”

Cycling Weekly spoke with Burt to gather his best tips and hacks for optimising your indoor setup: how to minimise common aches and pains, how to adjust your position for maximum comfort (and power!) and what you can do today to set yourself up for your best winter of indoor riding yet.

1. Your indoor setup doesn’t need to match your outdoor setup

More cyclists are riding indoors than ever before. Whether it’s weather, safety concerns, time constraints or the rise of virtual racing, trainer sessions have shifted from being a winter fallback to the winter training norm (at least in colder regions of the world).

This shift has brought tremendous improvements in indoor riding technology, equipment and gear, but it has also sparked new debates. Chief among them: should your indoor bike fit match your outdoor fit?

Not that long ago, we simply schlepped our dirty bikes inside and plopped them onto a turbo trainer, or sacrificed our least-used bike to permanent trainer duty. Now, the landscape has changed with a growing product segment of indoor-specific bikes like the Wahoo KICKR Bike, Zwift Ride, Tacx NEO Bike and others.

And with them, the debate grows. Ask ten bike fitters whether your indoor bike should be set up the same as your outdoor bike and you’re likely to get two very different answers. When we’ve asked this question before, the responses split cleanly into two camps.

One camp insists your indoor and outdoor positions should be identical. Same saddle height, same setback, same bar drop. The logic: your body should learn one movement pattern, not two.

The other camp argues that one should treat indoor riding as its own discipline, with its own demands and its own optimal setup.

Burt sees arguments on both sides, yet for the average person he leans toward the second.

“You are not Mark Cavendish; your indoor setup doesn’t have to match your outdoor setup,” he says. “Indoor cycling is harder on the body because nothing moves. Set your bike up for the environment you’re actually riding in.”

Some cyclists tolerate almost any setup with minimal fuss, while others fall apart if their saddle height is off by two millimetres. Burt calls these two groups macro absorbers and micro adjusters. Macro absorbers can hop on just about any bike and pedal for hours without complaint. Their biomechanics are forgiving and their bodies absorb variation. Micro adjusters, on the other hand, feel everything. Like Princess and the Pea, their bodies magnify the smallest deviation, be it a slightly rotated cleat, a hint of saddle tilt or bars a shade too low.

Outdoors, both groups benefit from constant micro-adjustments: the bike shifts underneath you, pressure varies at the saddle, you stand, you coast, you stretch. Even without realising it, you’re continually resetting your position. Indoors, none of that happens.

Indoors, none of that happens. Everything is fixed in place, and whatever asymmetry or inefficiency you bring to the bike gets amplified. Therefore, Burt insists that indoor fit deserves its own logic and its own adjustments because the environment magnifies whatever is happening in your body; the setup has to compensate.

2. A fit that prioritises comfort — or power

Outdoor bike fits are always a bit of a balancing act between handling, comfort, terrain, efficiency and aerodynamics. Indoors, almost all of that falls away.

For most people, that means the priority should be simple: a comfortable, sustainable position you can hold for long periods. Indoors, Burt says, there’s no reason to cling to an aggressive road position if all it does is create tension and shorten your ride.

Consider a bike fit, even virtually, or make some small adjustments yourself.

“I would start by bringing the rider up a bit higher and closer at the front, open the diaphragm up… and take the crank length down. Maximise what you can do indoors,” he says.

Raising the front end slightly reduces strain on the neck and back; opening the diaphragm makes breathing easier; and small positional changes can dramatically improve comfort when the bike no longer moves beneath you.

For riders chasing every watt on Zwift or MyWhoosh, however, Burt takes an almost time-trial-esque approach. Not because of aerodynamics but because of biomechanics. Power production becomes the dominant goal. And power, he explains, is driven by the “engine room”: the interaction of saddle height, setback, tilt, hip angle and muscle engagement.

Fit-wise, this means sitting tall and forward, positioning your centre of mass directly over the bottom bracket. By opening the hip angle, assisted by shorter crank arms, you enable fuller hip extension, which in turn supports more sustainable, repeatable power production.

3. Short cranks aren’t just for Tadej

If you follow pro racing even casually, you’ve probably heard the buzz around Tadej Pogačar’s use of short crank arms. Once considered niche or eccentric, short cranks (i.e. 160mm vs 172.5mm) have become a kind of shorthand for “marginal gains," but Burt has been preaching their benefits for years; long before Pogačar turned them into a talking point.

And for indoor riding, Burt believes shorter cranks aren’t just a good idea, they’re worth a lot of free watts.

“Crank length is the volume button on asymmetry," he says. Indoors, in that fixed state where the body isn't dynamically adjusting, any imbalance gets amplified fast. Shorter cranks, Burt argues, reduce hip closure, reduce stress on the knees, and help stabilise the pelvis. And the payoff can be dramatic.

“I regularly add 20 to 30 watts to ordinary people just by changing their crank length," Burt says.

It sounds extraordinary, but the principle behind it is simple. Shorter cranks open the hip angle and bring the glutes directly over the bottom bracket, putting your strongest muscles in their strongest position to produce power.

“That’s when you get your glutes and hip extensors right over the bottom bracket, and it makes a massive difference to how easy it is to generate power," Burt explains.

Turns out, shorter cranks are not just for WorldTour prodigies. In fact, they might be the most impactful upgrade an everyday rider can make this winter, for comfort and power.

There is one important adjustment to make if you do go shorter: saddle height.

“Say we drop 10 millimetres, then you need to go up 10 millimetres [on saddle height] and keep the setback where it is," Burt advises.

A one-to-one change preserves leg extension and ensures the new crank length positions you in that stronger, more sustainable place over the bottom bracket.

Wahoo's KICKR BIKE SHIFT and KICKR BIKE PRO come stock with adjustable crank arms, while Zwift makes them available after market for its indoor bike. For regular bikes, Appleman makes a rentable 'variable length crank' with the widest range we've seen — from 175mm all the way down to 100mm.

4. Sweat, not saddles, are causing those pesky saddle sores

A common complaint about indoor riding, monotony aside, is saddle sores, even when using the same saddle as you usually do.

The culprit here isn't the saddle but sweat.

"One of the biggest issues is you just sweat into your chamois and it's got nowhere to go," Burt says.

Outdoors, airflow and micro-movements constantly wick moisture and vary contact points. Indoors, nothing changes unless you change it. And that stillness accelerates irritation dramatically.

And the fix, according to Burt, is almost laughably simple:

"Everybody should cycle with a fan indoors… and it should be pointed primarily at their bum."

Not your face. Not your chest. Your bum.

“I’ve solved lots of people’s saddle sores indoors just by saying: get a cheap fan and point it at your bottom," he says.

Movement, too, will make a big difference, Burt says.

"Your degrees of freedom get less indoors… any system that lets you move up and down or side to side changes the saddle pressure hugely," he says.

Gadgets like Wahoo's KICKR Climb or a rocker plate certainly help here but even simply getting out of the saddle can do the trick.

"Set a timer, stand up for two seconds every ten minutes… that is demonstrably helpful in stopping everything hurting," Burt says.

Your winter pain-cave survival guide, according to Phil Burt

Here’s the distilled version of Burt’s insights:

1. Get comfortable

There’s no reason to cling to an aggressive road position if all it does is create tension and shorten your ride. Bring up the front and shorten the reach.

2. Shorten your cranks.

Shorter cranks improve comfort, hip mechanics, symmetry and power.

3. Aim a fan at your backside.

Sweat management prevents skin breakdown.

5. Add movement.

Standing breaks, rocker plates, tilt functions—anything helps.

6. Consider that your indoor bike may need its own fit.

Indoor riding is its own discipline.

Tristan Ridley lives on his bike. In fact, when we talk, he’s at the front end of the longest time he’s spent at home in the UK for years. He’s just got back from cycling across Iceland, and is about to launch again into Mexico at the end of October after bikepacking through the US to the border last year. But today we’re talking about the trip he had been planning for years - a challenge to cycle from Brighton to John O’Groats in under two weeks on £100. Spoiler alert - he did it on £74.47.

His set up was an amalgamation of found and near-free objects: a £10 Peugeot city bike with zebra print handle bars and rusting frame from the 1970s; a sleeping bag free from Facebook marketplace and a roll mat for £3. He strapped Sainsbury’s bags for life onto his pannier rack and he was ready to go: “If you’ve got a rack on your bike, you can make virtually anything work,” he tells me.

“I wanted to do a trip that just showed that [while good kit] is great and it is going to allow you to be more comfortable, you don’t actually need it. You can have fun without that.”

"The great thing about bike travel is that it's so accessible. You just need a bike.”

A seasoned adventurer, Ridley is used to challenges most of us could only gawp at. He’s been travelling pretty much non-stop since he was a teenager, from bikepacking in Aotearoa, New Zealand for the first time through the country’s mountainous south, to his decision to cycle home to England from Papua New Guinea straight after. Over the intervening decade, he's cycled around 88,000 kilometres through 72 countries . But his challenge back at home proved his most daunting yet.

“I was genuinely uncertain about whether it was going to be possible. I really didn't know whether it would fail completely. And that's quite rare for me with the kinds of trips that I do - I do very challenging trips, but I generally have a lot of confidence that it'll be fine, it'll work out.”

"[This trip] was very clear cut - this is my budget, this is my time frame... there was a very real chance that either I wouldn't be able to get a bike together in the time frame, or I would get a bike, but then I'd not have enough money to eat, or I'd get the bike, and then it would collapse and I wouldn't have enough money to repair or replace it. So I really didn't know how far I'd get. And that was exciting. I think the risk of failure is a really cool aspect in any trip.”

Ridley started his trip near his home in Brighton, with the goal of getting to John O’Groats within two weeks. A drizzly day met him as he pushed through the South Downs, passing through a Lidl to pick up jam and bread (paid for by Wendy, who Ridley got talking to in the queue) and home to a friend in London for spag bol before a big night of rest. Though as he emerged out of London, Ridley was on his own, locking into the long haul north and away from home and friends.

Part of his plan to stave off spending was to ask restaurants and cafes for food in exchange for work - for cleaning, pot-washing, or lawn mowing in exchange for a bed for the night.

“But multiple times people said, ‘We don't need you to wash dishes, but what are you doing?’ And then I would explain, and they would say, we love it. We're going to give you a meal anyway, have, whatever you want.”

He collected out-of-date sandwiches from closing supermarkets, was given three Yorkshire puddings to snack on mid-ride, and had a repeat breakfast of cold baked beans straight out of the tin to keep costs down. Nutrition was out of the window for the cyclist acutely attuned to long hours without food on the bike, carb-loading on bread and pasta, and on fruit wherever he could find it (“vitamin loading” to “stave off the scurvy”) but in York, his luck seemed to have run out.

“I think I struck out seven or eight times initially, and I was all set to give up [on finding food]. And then I went into an Indian restaurant on the edge of town, and I asked the guys there, and they were like, 'you know, we'd love to, but the managers not here. We can't have authority to do that.'

"Fair enough. But then a lady who was sitting there waiting for her food had overheard me explaining what I was doing, and she was like, that's awesome. Love it. I'll get you some dinner. And she just bought me a curry."

"Further up, there were days where it was really hard. There was one day where I think again, I struck out nine times in different places and got varying reactions from, oh no, we don't do food at the moment, to absolute confusion as to what I was on about. And then right at the end I went to a little restaurant on the Northumberland coast, and I asked the waitresses, and they put me onto the chefs, and they said they'd do it if I took a photo with them. And then I met other people who also plied me with beer and just really looked after me.”

“It was really humbling, actually. I was really touched by how many people were supportive, and wanted to help the trip.”

But some of Ridley's 50,000+ Instagram followers, weren't so encouraging with the cyclist's techniques of finding food, accusing him of being a "scrounger".

“I felt pretty okay with doing it for one specific trip," he says.

"But I do also have something of a problem with people that do it in developing countries. For me, it's got to be voluntary and relatively small scale. I think if you're someone who can afford it, who's travelling for a long period through those places, [but are] relying on the kindness of very poor locals...the poorer people are, the more they'll help if people say they need it, because they understand what poverty is and what it means to not have food.

"Doing a short trip in a rich country...I think I can justify that, because it's to make a point. And I think all of the people that helped me out weren't handicapping themselves in a major way. I'd like to think that I will pay that forward as well and help someone out that needs it. And so the cycle continues.”

Ridley’s trip wasn’t only a test of his endurance on a rickety budget bike from the 70’s, or simply to prove that it is possible to bikepack on limited cash, but also - perhaps incidentally - to show that people are kind, and willing to help if they’re let in. But Ridley is, crucially, a white man, and afforded privileges that people of other genders and ethnicities might not be so fortunate to receive. He's aware of the way he moves through the spaces he visits, a gentle care honed in a life on the road, meeting people from all walks of life, and he tells me that he hopes - and strongly feels - that the people who treated him with kindness on his trip through Britain, would do the same for anyone they met.

In the end, after nearly two weeks travelling by bike through England and Scotland, Ridley's trip ended in Edinburgh, just short of his goal of John O'Groats. "I'm really happy with with how it went," he tells me, mind already on the next adventure. "I think it came together really nicely."

"I guess my general advice for people that are interested in going on a bike trip, but for whom money isn't is an issue or a constraint is just to say: you don't need fancy gear. I'm not saying you go out and buy a junkyard bike and and then spend two pounds over the trip. I'm saying, get all the gear as cheap as you can, use second hand sources - there's so much available.

"The biggest takeaway and the biggest point of this trip wasn't to show that you can cycle Britain on £2.98, it's been just showing that money shouldn't be the constraint that people think it is.

"But it does depend on what you're doing. If you wanted to do the trip I've just done which was cycling right across the middle of Iceland, I wouldn't have gone near that with a £2.98 setup, and a junkyard bike. It would have been terrible. But most people, especially when you're just starting out, you don't need to go that far. You don't need to be doing anything that crazy. You just need a target, to pick a place from your front door. If you've got a week, pick a place that's a week away, and then take the train home at the end. It doesn't have to be complicated.

"I think that's ultimately what it's about, just keeping it simple and just going out on the trip. And once you're out there who cares what bike you've got, just have fun."

Finding the ideal tyre pressure for where you ride is as much art as science. The perfect pressure, or more realistically, range of pressures, depends on a variety of factors including weather, terrain, tyre makeup, a rider’s skill level and more. Testing pressures through trial and error remains a slow and painstaking process, but it can be the best way to learn what works.

Several different companies have developed useful tools over the last few years to help take some of the guesswork out of this process. Silca, SRAM and Rene Herse make three of the better known pressure calculators, and tool and accessory manufacturer Wolf Tooth Components launched one of its own at the beginning of 2025. I spoke with Wolf Tooth cofounder Mike Pfeiffer about the company’s tyre pressure app to learn more about how these calculators work and how best to use them for my riding.

Wolf Tooth, like Rene Herse and others, advocates for running lower tyre pressures (within reason) and argues that many riders still inflate their tyres too much. Lower pressures can improve traction, enhance comfort, and even reduce rolling resistance — particularly on off-road terrain.

What is a tyre pressure calculator?

Simply put, a tyre pressure calculator is a tool to help you derive an optimal range of tyre pressures for your bike and riding style. Such calculators can help to parse the vast number of inputs affecting tyre performance. Wolf Tooth’s advanced calculator, for example, considers the following: total system weight, casing type, riding conditions, ambient temperatures, tyre diameter, measured tyre width, inflation pressure and ultimate riding pressure.

If you want to optimise your pressure for a route that is a precise mix of 50/50 road and trail, that’s something a pressure calculator can help with. Or, if you’ve just purchased a new, wider set of tyres, and are wondering how much to drop your pressure, then a calculator can give you an idea just how much pressure to try.

Another scenario in which a pressure calculator might be useful is for a rider whose bike is loaded up with gear for a bikepacking trip, potentially a substantial increase over a normal setup. By weighing the total (including body weight) and inputting this figure, riders can get a sense of how much additional pressure might be needed to compensate for the added mass.

These are just a few examples.

How do tyre pressure calculators work?

Wolf Tooth’s calculator uses a slope-intercept linear equation to calculate pressure change vs. weight. According to Pfeiffer, the key is “in choosing the right coefficients for different riding conditions, bike types, etc. Adjustments for things like tire width are also linear. Pressure change with temperature is a little different but also a pretty simple formula.” One benefit of Wolf Tooth’s app is that it allows riders to adjust outputs based on their own preferences, and tweak the results to suit.

I also asked Pfeiffer about the testing behind these equations. He said that their methodology involved “a lot of ride testing [to answer the question:] does the recommended pressure work as the lowest reasonable pressure for a given riding condition? The limiting factor for low pressure is usually impact resistance or tire stability.”

I have previously written about how drum roller testing does not align with real world tire testing, and Pfeiffer echoed similar thoughts. He says drum roller lab testing “suggests that higher pressure results in lower rolling resistance but we know that's not true outside of the lab (or maybe smoothest pavement). Our philosophy is that the lowest pressure compatible with a given riding condition is best (fastest, most fun, whatever).”

How to use a pressure calculator effectively

I recommend experimenting with a few different pressure calculators for yourself. You’ll quickly notice that they’re not all the same. Each one values different inputs slightly more or less, and the only way to find what works for you is through testing them out.

I prefer to run my tyre pressure low, and Wolf Tooth’s calculator seems to work well for this. Each rider’s needs will be a little bit different. By adjusting the more subjective inputs, like riding conditions, you can see how the calculator’s recommendations change. This then provides a good jumping off point to do some testing of your own.

Finally, some things to keep in mind

First, any recommended tyre pressures are only as good as your pressure gauge. If your gauge is inaccurate, then it’s going to be hard to have consistent, repeatable results. Another thing to keep in mind, especially for multi-day trips, is how much pressure loss occurs per day. For example, latex tubes can lose significant amounts even over short periods of time. If you’re going bikepacking for a few days, some extra air on the first day might be advisable.

One other tip: pressures that feel comfortable on solo training rides, or course pre-rides often are not sufficient for racing. At race speeds you hit obstacles harder. Further, visibility is often compromised when racing against others, so adding pressure gives you an added buffer against pothole- or root-inflicted pinch flats.

Tyre pressure calculators should be used as a guide, not an absolute—there’s no substitute for experimentation on your own. Some riders might love the magic-carpet smoothness of a 45mm tyre at 25 psi, while others find this sensation more akin to nursing a slow leak. Your preferences matter!

Finally, asking “what pressure are you running?” to nearby riders at the start of a race is always advisable, if only for the chance to feel smug about your perfectly optimised race setup. When asked the question in return, make sure to say you’re at 5 psi less than actuality to sow seeds of doubt amongst your competition.

Why would anyone choose cable-actuated disc brakes in 2025? It’s a fair question.

There’s a reason why hydraulic disc brakes have become the industry standard. Purely from a performance standpoint, they are superior to cable-actuated disc brakes. They are simply more efficient at transferring force from the lever to the calliper. Compared to mechanical systems, hydraulics offer better lever feel, braking power and modulation. Hydraulic systems can also self-adjust as the best brake pads wear down, helping to maintain consistent braking performance. Additionally, bends in the hose don't affect performance, an attribute that is all the more critical now that so many bikes use internal routing.

But hydraulic brakes also have shortcomings. When they fail, infrequently though that may be, they cannot be fixed in the field. If you’re in the middle of the woods, for example, and suffer a brake failure, good luck. There is no “bush bleed” protocol.

Hydraulic brakes can also be difficult to troubleshoot for a home mechanic. Brand and model-specific tools are commonplace, as is the need for experience with these systems. For riders who prefer to work on their own bikes or lack ready access to a professional mechanic, cable-actuated systems may be a more approachable option. Further, since most drop bar bikes combine shifting and braking into one lever assembly, riders are locked into a single manufacturer for the entirety of the build, with little flexibility to account for anatomical preferences or other specific needs. This is where mechanical disc brakes can provide an interesting alternative.

Why go mechanical?

Installed on a well-designed and built bicycle, mechanical disc brakes can provide performance that is close to that of hydraulic systems. One additional benefit is that mechanical disc brakes can be cheaper than hydraulics, though clearly, based on the prices of the brakes tested below, this is not always the case.

A few scenarios where someone might be interested in using cable-actuated brakes rather than hydraulics:

1. For people who prefer mechanical systems in general and value field-repairability (i.e. bikepacking and adventure riders who often journey far from services)
2. For those who own older groupsets that are not compatible with disc brakes, but who wish to continue using them instead of consigning them to the bin
3. For those with specific anatomical needs (i.e. riders with smaller hands whose needs are not met by current market offerings)
4. For those who disassemble and assemble bikes frequently while traveling (i.e. bike journalists who find themselves rebuilding a bike in a hotel room at 1 AM after a long day of travel and whose worst nightmare is discovering a catastrophic hydraulic failure in their bike bag)
5. For those who already own a bike with cable disc brakes and want to upgrade in search of improved performance

This is far from an exhaustive list. For me personally, most of my bikes use hydraulic brakes, but I have had to assemble enough bicycles in hotel rooms to appreciate the fool-proof nature of mechanical systems, hence my interest in the subject at hand.

'Brake it down': four mechanical disc brakes put to the test

Yokozuna Ultimo

Ride impressions: The Ultimos are unusual in that they offer a hybrid design with a self-contained, closed hydraulic system to actuate the pads, by way of a cable pulled at the brake lever. This closed system requires no maintenance, and adjustments can be made with a single knob, which moves both pads simultaneously. The Ultimos have four pistons, instead of the more commonly seen two in this segment. With this design, Yokozuna has been able to achieve some of the benefits of hydraulic actuation while consolidating this aspect to the calliper. This means that fluid, rather than mechanical leverage, moves the pistons, causing both pads to engage the rotor. However, unlike a fully hydraulic brake, the pads do not self-adjust.

I was impressed by the Ultimo callipers in a variety of ways. Installation was straightforward, and everything necessary was included in the box. Once the pads were bedded in, power was strong and modulation consistent, if a little vague. They do not have the fully locked-in feel of a well-bled hydraulic brake, since the cable stretch comes through the lever after the pads have fully engaged, but otherwise, they perform very well.

Verdict: The Ultimos are about as close as you can get to hydraulic performance while using cables. With properly prepared (i.e. perfect cuts and properly cleaned ends) and well-routed housing, the brake action is excellent. Performance will degrade over time as cables stretch and are subjected to dirt and oil contamination, just like all mechanical brakes. It’s also worth mentioning that these are the most expensive brakes on test, and are just as expensive as a fully hydraulic system. But if you’re looking for some hydraulic feel with the predictability of cable-actuated levers, the Ultimos are as good as it gets.

Paul Components Klampers

Ride impressions: My first impression of the Klampers is that they appear noticeably larger than the other callipers on test. Like most of Paul Components’ catalogue, they are made out of machined aluminium, and feel very robust. This heft means they’re heavy, but it also translates to strong braking force. When set up correctly, the Klampers feel extremely powerful. Interestingly, Paul Components specifically recommends against using compressionless housing with these brakes. Like the Growtacs reviewed below, the Klampers actuate a single piston to transfer force to the rotor.

Independent pad adjustment is very straightforward, with dials located on either side of the calliper that move the pads in and out. With that said, setup is somewhat finicky. Paul Components refers users to a YouTube video, which I found indispensable. They have a narrow window of operation that takes some time to find, but when they’re set up correctly and have bedded in pads, they really bite well and inspire confidence. One of the neatest features of the Klampers is their modularity. It’s easy to swap out arms for different pull ratios and choose your own finishes (including a bunch of fun colours). All of Paul Components’ products are made to very high standards in the state of California.

Verdict: Part of the appeal of the Klampers is the story behind them: Made in California, fun colours, reliable design and high-level engineering. I liked the ease of adjustability provided by the independent pad adjustment, but found the Klampers to be the trickiest of the brakes tested to reliably set up. Once there, however, the performance was good, with excellent power. The calliper size and cable routing peculiarities mean that these will not fit on every frame. Measure first!

Growtac Equal

Ride impressions: I like brakes to have a quick initial bite and then a progressive ramp up in power afterwards, and these callipers excelled at this. Growtac’s Equal brakes are also impressively compact and lightweight. I had no major issues during installation, though it took me a few tries to get the cable just right in search of the performance characteristics I wanted. A quirk of the provided housing is that it is so stiff it won’t bend with the curve of a handlebar, so Growtac recommends using a flexier portion of housing for that area and connecting it to compressionless housing for the remainder of the housed section. This essentially removes the benefit of the compressionless housing by introducing an additional flex point. I recommend using different housing than what is provided.

Growtac’s specced resin pads seem to help provide feedback as the pads engage with the rotor, and the unique calliper design extracts maximum leverage from the system. Though the cable only moves a single brake piston (like the Klampers), these brakes work as well as they do thanks to optimised cable routing (thereby eliminating friction) coupled with a cam design that pulls at a 90-degree angle from the cable ingress. This cam apparatus can be adjusted to suit your braking preferences, offering an impressive range of functional tunability, though this must be done with care, as it’s possible to break the leverage arm on itself. In fact, the brake has a caution symbol etched onto it by way of warning.

In terms of absolute power, the Equals do not have the same exceedingly solid feel of the Klampers, but seem to find a harmonious balance between size, weight and power. For my braking needs, as a lighter rider who values modulation, the Equal brakes provided me with exactly what I wanted.

Verdict: The Growtac Equal brakes were the only type tested that came as a set, which is how most people tend to buy brakes (assuming you don’t need separate mount types). They were also the lightest callipers tested, and though they cannot compare on price with TRP’s offering they were the next cheapest option. The thoughtfulness of the design is impressive and I thought they offered the best mix of modulation and tunability, despite the single pad actuation. Some care needs to be taken with adjusting the callipers so as not to inflict their own strength upon them, which could be a potential issue for riders concerned with field repairability.

TRP Spyre

Ride impressions: For being such an inexpensive and ubiquitous brake calliper, the Spyre impressively features dual-piston clamping, which means braking force is applied on both sides of the rotor simultaneously. This is how hydraulic brakes work, and results in more consistent pad wear and lets the rotor stay centered without being forced laterally in order to engage with the pads. Thus, the pads engage more consistently. The calliper design is quite straightforward and though they are a little on the bulky side, installation was simple. Once the cable is threaded through the lever arm, the brakes are ready to use. I found that centering the pads on the rotor took some trial and error to get right; something about the angles and lines of sight made this process harder than it should be. Braking force was reliable, with no unusual quirks. It can be a bit of a headache to need to source bolts and adapters separately, and since TRP recommends compressionless housing, it would be nice for the company to include it in the box, but again, these perform well for significantly less money than the other brakes tested.

Verdict: Value wise, the Spyres can’t be beat. Yes, you’ll need to pay a bit more for bolts, adapters and housing if you don’t already have those items, but even with the cost of these factored in, the price is still less than half that of any of the other brakes tested. The barrel adjuster allows for quick fine-tuning of pad engagement, which will be familiar for anyone who has ever used rim brakes. I really can’t criticise much about these—they may not be quite as powerful or have as much adjustment as some of the competition, but they work as intended, for a very reasonable price.

Overall Verdict

All of the brake callipers tested stopped me and my bike successfully. Some of them did it slightly better than others, yes, but all worked exactly as intended. As with any product, once you spend a bit of time getting used to it, it tends to feel normal. My personal bikes mostly use hydraulic brakes, so that’s what I’m most accustomed to, but after spending a few minutes on all of the mechanical brakes tested I was just as comfortable with them as hydraulics.

It was an interesting experience to test brake callipers one at a time. My testing method involved swapping each brake type individually, to test front or rear concurrently against a different brake. This is not typical of most bike setups, so it was an unusual way to experience how each brake differs in feel. It was also a laughably silly amount of wrenching to essentially find that, “oh, this one works well too.”

I really appreciated the ability of these mechanical systems to fine tune how the pads engage with the rotors and adjust the rate of modulation. This tunability is largely lacking in hydraulic systems, and I miss it. It wouldn’t surprise me, however, if this were to change in the future.

I also had fun spending some time riding cable brakes again. Though this is an “older” system, it has merits. Higher end bicycles haven’t used cables for some time now, but the fact of the matter is that a large percentage of new bicycles sold today, for commuting and children’s bikes and other workhorse applications, still use cables for both shifting and braking.

How I tested these mechanical disc brakes

For this test, we sourced four different mechanical disc brake calliper options to compare their performance.

All braking systems were tested on the same bicycle with the same shifters (Shimano’s workhorse: Ultegra 8000 11-speed mechanical shifters). New cables and housing were installed for each test, per the manufacturer's specifications. Brake pads were brand new, and we followed the same pad break-in protocol for each. Rotors were also swapped out to pair with each brake tested (some, but not all of the products tested, included rotors in the box).

Brakes were tested for several months under various conditions. Our test method involved swapping out different front and rear brakes individually to compare and contrast each one against the other.

In the midst of the COVID-19 pandemic, when silence and loneliness settled into my apartment, I did what so many others did: I adopted a dog. Well, two dogs actually. Living by myself, I hoped that a four-legged companion would add some much-needed joy and companionship to my life. So I adopted Daisy Mae and Lacey, a bonded pair of senior dogs, in October 2020.

As an avid cyclist who uses her bike for transportation, recreation and a source of community, I hoped my new companions could liven up my home and become part of my cycling life as well.

Here’s how I’ve managed to bring Daisy Mae and Lacey into my two-wheeled world, and the lessons I’ve learned along the way

Introduction to the bicycle

Daisy Mae and Lacey are rescues who came to me late in their lives. As such, I had no idea what their previous lives looked like. Had they been introduced to a bicycle before? Would they be frightened? Curious? Completely indifferent? With five bikes crammed into my small one-bedroom apartment, the girls would have no choice but to become familiar with them. Luckily, neither of them seemed to bat an eye when the bikes came out, concerning themselves instead with the more important matters of treats and walks.

At a combined sixty pounds (27 kilos), I started looking for a solution that would allow me to bring them with me on my rides. After some brief internet searching, I decided to try a bike trailer. I found a screaming deal on a used two-kid trailer online, drove thirty minutes to pick it up, and after some minor modifications, began introducing the dogs to the trailer.

To make sure the dogs were both safe and comfortable in a trailer not designed for canine passengers, I had to make a few adjustments. I modified the restraint system (the seatbelts) so that I could attach their harnesses and leashes. I also removed the bench seat to give them more space. I attached the bike trailer to my bike using the quick-release axle and rolled it into the living room so the dogs could see it, sniff it and get used to it. I then scattered some treats inside the trailer, incentivising the dogs to investigate this new contraption even closer.

The plan worked. Within minutes, both dogs independently climbed in and were generously rewarded for their curiosity with more treats. I then buckled them into their new transport wagon, and we were off for our first ride.

I only intended to go for a few blocks, but I was still nervous. I kept glancing behind me to check in on them. A good thing, too, because Lacey, the more adventurous of the two dogs, had managed to get her front paws out of the trailer and was attempting to escape. I stopped, gave them some love, repositioned her harness, and finished the ride around the block.

This setup worked for us for a few weeks, but ultimately, I found the trailer to be heavy, cumbersome and frankly not that much fun to ride with. The dogs didn’t seem to enjoy it very much either, and I knew there had to be a better solution.

Ditching the Trailer for a Cargo Bike

After watching countless YouTube videos about riding with dogs, I was most intrigued by the idea of a front-loading electric cargo bike. I had a feeling Daisy Mae and Lacey weren’t thrilled about riding behind me in the enclosed trailer, and I figured that a more open, front-facing setup might make the experience more enjoyable for all of us. They'd be feeling the wind in their fur, and I would be able to keep an eye on them. After test-riding a cargo bike myself (which I highly recommend), I returned for a second test ride with the dogs in tow.

Using the same treat approach as with the trailer, I coaxed the dogs to get in and explore the front bucket of the cargo bike with some of their favourite treats. I also brought a blanket for them to sit on, and carabiners to secure their harnesses to the bicycle. After a bit of finagling, both dogs were secured in the front of the bike, and we were off for our first adventure. Within the first minute of riding the cargo bike, it was clear that we had found an excellent solution for our family biking adventure. We were all grinning from ear to ear.

Once the bike—a Larry vs Harry Bullitt—was in our possession, I again made a few modifications to enhance our experience. A friend helped devise an easy solution for securing the dogs in the cargo bucket, using the attachment points on the bike, short leashes that still allowed for movement within the bike, and locking carabiners. For their comfort, I lined the bottom of the cargo space with a Z-fold camping pad and a soft blanket. I even invested in a rain cover to shelter my precious cargo from the relentless Seattle rain.

The cargo bike quickly became our favourite way to get around. Everywhere we went, we were met with smiles. And every ride left me in a better mood. We explored the city from end to end, even embarking on an ambitious overnight bike camping trip that included a ferry ride. Fully charged, the bike could carry all of us more than 40 miles, even with a full load!

Rules, Regulations & Best Practices for Riding with your Dog

Five years and a cross-country move later, the cargo bike is still my favourite mode of transportation with dogs. Sadly, Lacey crossed the rainbow bridge a few years ago, but I still ride regularly with Daisy Mae in our new hometown of Bentonville, Arkansas. During that time, I’ve been asked countless questions about our setup, and I'm more than happy to pass along everything I’ve learned. Here are some of the most common inquiries:

Is it legal to ride with a dog like that?

Yes, however, you must obey any local rules and regulations regarding not just riding bikes but also dogs ownership in general, including applicable leash laws.

Has the dog ever tried to jump out?

Yes once, when I let a friend pilot my bicycle and I was riding alongside. Her harness kept her in the bike. We quickly pulled over, switched pilots, and have never had an issue since.

What do you do in the summer/winter/inclement weather?

For rain, I use the aforementioned rain screen. And now that I live in the south, hot temperatures are a real concern. We don’t go out if its too hot, saving our rides for early mornings or evenings when it’s a more comfortable temperature outside. My rule of thumb is “If I wouldn’t take her for a walk right now, I’m not taking her for a bike ride.”

In colder temperatures, I bundle her up with a jacket and more blankets. We don’t ride when it’s super cold, because that’s no fun for anyone!

What do you do about water/snacks/supplies for the dog?

Thankfully, it’s a cargo bike so we’ve got plenty of space for stuff. We always have a water dish and bottle of water on hand as well as an extra leash and poop bags.

How do you know that she likes it?

While I don’t technically speak dog, all indications point to her liking the bike. Whenever I open the garage door, she goes straight to the bike, and has been known to fall asleep while we’re riding.

Do we need any protective equipment for the dog?

Accessories like dog goggles exist, which can protect your dog’s eyes from wind or bugs. I tried these with Daisy Mae but she was unfortunately not a fan.

Riding a bike with your dog is an incredible way to experience both bike riding and bonding with your furry companion. In addition to trailers and cargo bikes, there are a number of other options to bring your pooch along. These include specially designed backpacks (ideal for small dogs), handle-bar mounted dog seats, and for the especially adventurous dog, bike-attached running leashes.

No matter which option you choose for you and your dog, take it slow. Introduce this new experience gradually, with plenty of treats, praise and patience. The goal is to make it safe and enjoyable for your dog so it'll become something they look forward to and not fear. A little extra time at the start can make all the difference in building their confidence and creating a positive experience for both of you.

You've dialled in your training plan, fine-tuned your bike setup, and tracked every watt of your performance. But if you're among the growing number of cyclists avoiding gluten, you might be overlooking a crucial element of your performance equation: proper fueling strategies that work with your dietary needs.

As both a nutritionist and a cyclist who's navigated the gluten-free landscape for years, I've seen firsthand how the right nutritional approach can transform performance for those with celiac disease or gluten sensitivity. The good news? You don't need wheat, barley or rye to power your rides effectively.

Many cyclists worry that cutting gluten means sacrificing carbohydrates, their primary fuel source. But with strategic food choices and meal timing, gluten-free athletes can perform just as strongly as their gluten-consuming counterparts. Let's break down what you need to know about fueling properly as a gluten-free cyclist.

What exactly is gluten?

Gluten is a group of proteins found in certain grains, primarily wheat, barley, and rye. For those with celiac disease (an autoimmune condition affecting approximately 1% of the population), consuming even small amounts of gluten can damage the small intestine and impair nutrient absorption. Many others experience non-celiac gluten sensitivity, with symptoms like bloating, fatigue and brain fog that can impact performance.

For cyclists, the digestive issues associated with gluten reactions can be particularly problematic during training and racing. Gastrointestinal distress is already common in endurance sports; add gluten sensitivity to the mix, and you're setting yourself up for mid-ride misery.

Where gluten hides: The surprising sources

As any gluten-free athlete knows, this protein complex lurks in more places than just the obvious bread and pasta. To truly fuel your cycling effectively, you need to know where gluten might be sneaking into your diet:

• Sports nutrition products: Many energy bars, gels, and recovery drinks contain wheat-based ingredients or are processed in facilities that handle gluten
• Sauces and condiments: Soy sauce, many salad dressings, marinades, and gravies often contain wheat as a thickener
• Processed meats: Some deli meats and sausages use wheat-based fillers
• Supplements: Protein powders and vitamin supplements sometimes include gluten-containing binders
• Beer: The traditional cyclist's recovery drink is typically made with barley
• Cross-contamination: Even naturally gluten-free foods like oats can be contaminated during processing unless they are certified gluten-free

These hidden sources can sabotage performance for cyclists without you realising the cause. Being vigilant about reading labels and understanding ingredient terminology becomes as important as tracking your training metrics.

Carb loading without the wheat

One of the biggest concerns for gluten-free cyclists is how to ingest sufficient carbs before big events. The traditional pasta dinner becomes challenging, but especially these days, effective alternatives abound:

• Rice-based options: Brown rice, white rice and rice noodles provide excellent carbohydrate sources that digest well
• Ancient grains: Certified gluten-free quinoa, amaranth and buckwheat (despite the name, it's not related to wheat) offer carbohydrates plus additional protein
• Root vegetables: Sweet potatoes, regular potatoes and other starchy vegetables provide quality carbohydrates with beneficial micronutrients
• Legumes: Beans and lentils deliver both carbohydrates and protein for sustained energy

The key is planning ahead and potentially increasing your intake of these alternatives to match the carbohydrate content you'd get from wheat-based products. Most gluten-free grains provide comparable energy – they just might require different preparation approaches.

On-bike nutrition strategies

During-ride fueling presents unique challenges for gluten-free cyclists. Traditional energy bars and many commercial products contain gluten or may have cross-contamination risks. Here's how to stay properly fueled on the road:

• Certified gluten-free energy bars: Brands like Bobo's, KIND, and Larabar offer certified gluten-free options
• Rice cakes: Homemade portable rice cakes with sweet or savoury fillings provide easily digestible energy
• Fruit: Bananas and dried fruits like dates offer natural sugars that digest quickly
• Potato-based options: Baby potatoes with salt make excellent mid-ride fuel
• Gluten-free energy gels: Many major brands now offer certified gluten-free options
• Homemade energy balls: Combinations of dates, nuts, and certified gluten-free oats can be customised to your taste and nutritional needs

Remember to test these alternatives during training rides before relying on them for important events. Your digestive system needs time to adapt to new fueling strategies, especially during high-intensity efforts.

Recovery nutrition without gluten

Post-ride recovery nutrition is critical for training adaptations and preparing for your next session. Without traditional wheat-based recovery meals, focus on these alternatives:

• Rice-based meals: Brown rice bowls with protein and vegetables provide carbohydrates for glycogen replenishment alongside recovery protein
• Smoothies: Fruit smoothies with gluten-free protein powder deliver fast-absorbing nutrition
• Gluten-free oats: Certified gluten-free oatmeal with protein powder, fruit, and honey makes an excellent recovery meal
• Corn tortillas: Quick post-ride tacos or quesadillas with protein filling provide fast, tasty refuelling
• Quinoa bowls: This complete-protein grain serves as an excellent base for recovery meals

The ideal ratio of carbohydrates to protein (roughly 3:1 or 4:1) remains the same whether or not you're consuming gluten. The key is ensuring adequate overall intake to support your training load.

Practical tips for gluten-free cyclists

Plan ahead: The gluten-free cyclist's mantra. Always travel with safe snacks and research food options before trips.

Read ALL labels: Manufacturers change ingredients frequently. What was safe last month might contain gluten now.

Communicate clearly: When eating out, explain your needs clearly to restaurant staff, mentioning cross-contamination concerns.

Batch cook staples: Prepare gluten-free grains and snacks in batches to ensure you always have fuel ready.

Focus on nutrient density: Without many fortified wheat products, ensure you get B vitamins, iron, and other nutrients from alternative sources.

The bottom line

Cycling while avoiding gluten requires more planning and awareness, but it doesn't need to limit your performance or enjoyment of the sport. By focusing on naturally gluten-free whole foods, carefully selected certified products, and proper timing of nutrition, you can fuel effectively for everything from casual rides to competitive events.

The most important takeaway? Experiment during training to discover what works best for your body. Every cyclist is different, and finding your personal optimal fueling strategy takes time and attention, but the performance benefits make it worthwhile.

For many athletes with celiac disease or gluten sensitivity, removing gluten actually improves performance by resolving underlying digestive and inflammatory issues. By embracing the right alternatives and timing, you might find yourself riding stronger than ever on your gluten-free fueling plan.

Did you know that you can build up a geared bicycle without shift levers and have it work flawlessly? It’s true. And it’s one of my favourite yet little-known features of SRAM’s wireless AXS ecosystem.

Let me back up.

In SRAM’s eTap AXS system, both front and rear derailleur shifting is completely wireless, controlled by simple presses of the shift levers—just like with a mechanical groupset, but without the cables.

For greater versatility and accessibility, SRAM introduced wireless, self-contained remote shifters in 2022. These remote shifters, known as Blips, are tiny Bluetooth-enabled buttons you can stick just about anywhere on your bike. They function just like the levers do, with the exception of SRAM’s multi-shift feature.

These little buttons open up shifting possibilities for all kinds of riders—whether you're a climber who prefers to shift from the tops of your bars, a triathlete using aerobars, a crit racer shifting from the drops, or a paracyclist with an adaptive setup. You can add up to eight blips per drivetrain, allowing you to shift from every possible position on the bike.

I was an instant fan. I often ride with my hands on the tops, and placing Blips on the underside of the bar lets me shift without having to change hand positions. But while the Blips are a convenience for me as an able-bodied person, they’re downright revolutionary for those with hand impairments or mobility challenges – and that’s pretty darn cool.

There was just one catch: Blips initially needed to be paired with a primary AXS controller such as brake-shift levers (road), a paddle/pod (MTB) or the BlipBox (triathlon/TT). That changed in March 2024, when SRAM dropped an exciting yet relatively quiet app update: Blips could henceforward be paired directly to the derailleur without needing a primary shifter on the bike. The rear derailleur will act as a ‘parent’ component, and in the smartphone app, users can set the individual Blip’s function. That means that one can now control an AXS drivetrain with just Blips as the shifters.

Naturally, I went and tested this myself and I have been running at least one of my bikes as a shifter-less setup ever since. It makes for a clean aesthetic and simple operation.

My build

On my around-town bike, I use a flat MTB-style handlebar with hydraulic brakes and a 1x electronic drivetrain controlled solely by Blips. While the Blips come with double-sided tape, I use a 3D-printed Blip mount made by Leap Components. Sure, I could’ve gone with an AXS Pod or MTB controller to get a similar setup but those retail for $150–$200 while a set of Blips will set you back $99.

I use an older SRAM Force AXS derailleur I had laying around, upgraded it with a Garbaruk derailleur cage to accommodate a 10-50t cassette. The result: a 1x setup with a wide range and handlebars that look almost as clean and minimal as a single-speed.

How to Set Up Blips as Standalone Shifters

Here’s how to set up your Blips as sole controllers, assuming you already have an AXS derailleur.

• Make sure you have the latest version of the SRAM AXS app on your smartphone.
• Open the AXS app while connected to Wi-Fi or cellular
• Make sure your component(s) are up-to-date with the latest firmware and keep your BLips (up to 8 total) in reach
• Press and hold the AXS button on the rear derailleur until the green light blinks slowly, then release
• If you have other AXS components, press and hold the AXS buttons on those components until they also blink. If you don’t have any other AXS components, skip to the next step.
• Press and hold your first Blip for about four seconds until the light on the rear derailleur blinks quickly, then release. Continue to do so with the remainder of your Blips.
• Press and release the AXS button on the rear derailleur to end the pairing process
• You can now assign the function of each Blip in the app.

Gimmick or Game-Changing?

What do you think? Gimmick or useful?

Personally, I think this little hack is too good to go unshared and I hope this gives you inspiration for your next build. Do share your setup with us in the comments below. And let us know if you have any questions.

Like every good millennial in the outdoor or bike industry, we wake up each day feeding the contradiction that is our existence. A sentiment that is both hyperbole and also not, because ultimately, each of us participating in the thing we love is sort of squashing the thing we love. Dramatic yet true: each ride, each product, every social post is celebrating the outdoors while also killing it.

I’m not a scientist, geologist, biologist, economist, or any other kind of “-ist” with data-driven credentials on the future of our planet. But I am a professional athlete and environmental advocate — someone who spends most of her days outside and cares deeply about keeping those places wild and intact. So, in recognition of Earth Day, I wanted to share a reflection on the paradox of living a life outdoors that ultimately harms the outdoors — and how I try to navigate the tension between loving it and preserving it.

This notion is harder than you think. We are all a walking (or riding) contradiction. It’s impossible not to be one —don’t worry, you’re not in trouble, we’re in this one together. By purchasing a bike, a kit, tyres, components, shoes, helmets, sunglasses, a bike rack or a vehicle to get to a cool riding destination, you’ve left your mark on our planet. Even worse, we’ve been sold the comforting idea that recycling somehow offsets it all — a way of repenting for our environmental sins. Just toss your empty bubbly water can in the right bin, rinse out the yoghurt container, and carry on feeling like we’ve done our part. But the hard truth is that recycling may just be one of the most successful greenwashing campaigns of all time. I won’t go deep down that rabbit hole, but I will say this: maybe take a moment to look up who paid for the first big ad campaign about recycling, and come to your own conclusions.

I digress, you’re here because we all love bikes, and here I am talking about washing out yoghurt cups. I don’t have a simple, ‘do these 10 things to save our planet and we’ll all live happily ever after’ list, because the idea of “saving our planet” is a little less sexy than that. Instead, here’s a list of the things I’ve done, the things I want to do more of and the things I want to do less of. And perhaps we can all work together to save our beloved outdoors?

• Take care of your stuff! It’s both economical and environmental to make what you have last longer. If you don’t have the know-how yourself, your local bike shop is a wonderful resource.
• Buy nice stuff. We all get suckered into buying that new cool thing that everyone has. But maybe do a quick internet search and see what it’s really made of, if it will last or if it’s just a fad.
• Carpool to rides, races and events. Or better yet, ride there! Check out this guy who is riding to all of the LTGP races…from Canada!
• Share resources. This is for all of my fellow pros out there: we get a lot of stuff, we have a lot of support. Let’s be nice and share these things. Do we really need to fly more people all over the place? Do we need to dispose of that barely used tyre? People love to give me s*** about driving a school bus from one race to the next, but in that bus I’m schlepping not only myself but also a few fellow bike racers, a mechanic, a lot of gear and even my place of lodging.
• Why so much team kit? This is a big one for us pro athletes. Do we really need 10 new jerseys and bibs, 20 pairs of socks of the new team garb, or can we get away with less? Perhaps re-use what stays the same?
• We throw away a lot of wrappers - ride food comes in small, single-use packaging. If you want to recycle — even though I just called it a greenwashing campaign — there is a cool company that takes old nutrition wrappers and recycles them. And if you ride and race your bike a lot, then you know just how many wrappers you amass!
• The least glamorous — but maybe most important — piece of advice last: get involved.. Join your local trail-building associations, advocacy groups, bike clubs, group rides or shop meetups. These are your entry points into real community, real connection, and real change. If your town needs safer roads, more bike lanes, better trails, or funding — this is where it starts. Show up. Speak up. And vote in local elections to get people who care about bikes and the outdoors into decision-making roles. That’s how we make change happen.

I know that the topic of climate change, the environment, or the future of our planet can become politicised quickly, and I certainly don’t want to be yet another person yelling into the void that is the internet about politics. I’m here as a fellow cyclist, another bike racer, a professional athlete, to encourage you to keep doing the thing you love. Keep riding your bike. Take care of it. Take care of the places you ride it and take care of each other. That’s really the best we can do. Happy Earth Day.

Strength training is consistently listed as one of the components of training most overlooked by endurance cyclists. But, what exactly should a cyclist's strength training routine look like? What exercises should we be including, and how often?

Well, let's dive in...

How can strength training improve cycling performance?

The benefits of strength training for cycling performance go beyond just improving muscle strength. One of the primary advantages is the enhancement of power output. By targeting muscle groups involved in pedalling – the quadriceps, hamstrings and glutes – strength training increases the force a cyclist can apply to the pedals, which directly contributes to higher peak and sustained power. This is especially valuable for sprinting, climbing and time-trial efforts.

Does it have other benefits too?

Yes, strength training also improves neuromuscular efficiency, allowing cyclists to recruit muscle motor units more effectively. This means better coordination and smoother transitions between muscle groups, which can reduce fatigue over long rides. Another critical benefit is injury prevention. Cycling is a repetitive-motion sport, and imbalances or weaknesses can eventually lead to overuse injuries. Strength training corrects these imbalances by strengthening stabilising muscles and improving joint integrity, particularly in the knees, hips and lower back. It also increases bone density, which is crucial for cyclists who might otherwise lose bone mass due to the non-weight-bearing nature of cycling.

What’s the best strength training for a cyclist?

Current evidence suggests we need at least two weekly sessions for strength gains and one session for maintenance. I would suggest two to three sessions per week during the first part of the season, and a single session during the competitive phase for maintenance. Focus on muscles directly involved in pedalling by doing squats, unilateral leg press and lunges. I would also suggest deadlifts, face-pulls, upper body rows and some concentric hip flexion exercises to counter the typical cycling posture and to work on stabilisers and antagonist muscles.

Are there any exercises cyclists should avoid?

Cyclists do better by avoiding plyometric and jumping exercises, which do not simulate cycling-type movements – I cannot imagine the mechanism by which they would enhance cycling performance.

What is the evidence that strength work improves cycling performance?

Most of the research done in this area has measured time-trial performance. For example, the work done by Norwegian sports scientist Bent Rønnestad where improved leg strength led to an increase of 4-7% in mean power output during five-minute and all-out efforts, while the group that did endurance training only showed no significant improvement. Strength training has also been found to improve cycling economy and pedalling technique, such as achieving peak torque earlier in the stroke.

What role can core training play in cycling performance?

The only study I’m aware of is one I directed several months ago. There’s no research that backs up core-specific exercises for injury prevention or performance enhancement. In fact, in my study, doing nothing performed equally to doing core exercises. As core muscles are already under heavy load during classical multi-articular exercises – squats, deadlifts, etc – use your time wisely and don’t waste it by doing planks or bridges. At least that’s my suggestion, based on current literature.

Cycling is an equipment intensive sport, requiring everything from bikes and helmets to shoes, clothing and electronics. For beginners, navigating the endless options—while balancing style, fit and comfort—can feel overwhelming. It’s no wonder so many riders find themselves asking, "What am I even supposed to wear?"

There’s a common perception that cycling requires head-to-toe tight-fitting lycra, complete with matching accessories, including gloves, shoe covers and jackets. While this classic kit has its benefits (and it is often my go-to), it’s certainly not the only option. You can ride comfortably in everyday clothes without ever investing in expensive, cycling-specific gear. Read on for practical advice and tips for biking comfortably in what you already own—or can easily find—no matter your budget or size.

Comfort first

The number one rule for what to wear on your bike? Comfort is key.

Whether you’re cruising the greenway for an hour or tackling a long gravel ride, your clothing should fit well and allow for unrestricted movement—no chafing, rubbing, or discomfort.

Opt for stretchy pants or shorts that allow you to pedal freely. Avoid bulky fabrics or thick seams in the crotch area, which can cause chafing and serious discomfort over time. If you must wear underwear, opt for seamless underwear or well-fitted briefs to prevent chafing.

If you’re choosing to ride in long pants, opt for a narrower leg opening or be sure to roll up your right pant leg to avoid the fabric getting stained by grease or, worse, tangled up in the chain. It might not be the most stylish look, but it’s a small price to pay to avoid an awkward (and potentially dangerous) cycling mishap.

For tops, almost anything goes—as long as it’s comfortable and breathable. This is your opportunity to express your personal style if you so choose. Moisture-wicking fabrics such as merino wool, cotton blends or polyester are ideal as the material helps regulate body temperature and keep you dry.

Avoid tight, movement-restricting tops and instead opt for breathable, loose-fitting tops that allow for a full range of motion. A simple t-shirt or button-down shirt is a great option, paired with a flannel, sweater or light jacket when temperatures call for it.

Easy on, easy off

Weather can change fast, and layering is the secret to staying comfortable and safe. Here’s how to do it right:

Base Layer: A moisture-wicking fabric (like wool or a synthetic blend) will help maintain your core body temperature while wicking away any sweat.

Mid Layer: A flannel, sweatshirt or light jacket for insulation.

Outer Layer: A wind- or water-resistant jacket to protect against the elements.

Bonus: a vest is also a great choice for those days where you’re not quite sure what the weather is going to do.

When layering, think easy on, easy off. You want to be able to adjust your clothing as the temperature changes without overcomplicating things

Footwear

Yes, shoes do matter, both for your comfort and safety. While they do make cycling more efficient, you don’t need cycling-specific shoes with clip-in pedals to enjoy a comfortable ride. A supportive pair of sneakers or any closed-toe shoes with a flat, rigid sole can work well for casual cyclists.

If you plan to ride longer distances, consider adding insoles for extra comfort and to prevent foot fatigue. If you do decide to invest in cycling shoes but aren’t ready for clip-in pedals, look for a good pair of touring, commuting or mountain bike shoes. They offer support and grip while on the bike while still being walkable off the bike.

Accessories

Even without specialised cycling gear, accessories like gloves, hats and sunglasses can improve comfort and safety.

Cycling gloves offer some extra grip on the bars, while also reducing hand fatigue and preventing blisters. They’re also designed for a variety of weather conditions, with the thicker ones adding some insulation for cooler days.

A simple cap or headband can also keep you warm while keeping sweat out of your eyes. Just be sure it fits snugly under your helmet.

Sunglasses help with visibility and protect your eyes from debris, wind and UV rays.

Buying cycling gear for less

If you’ve fallen in love with cycling—of course you have!—and decide to invest in cycling-specific clothing, second-hand gear can be a great option.

Online marketplaces such as GearTrade.com, Poshmark and REI offer quality used items. Local bike swaps can often be a goldmine for quality clothing as well, plus it never hurts to ask your friends if they’ve got any gear they no longer need or want.

Whatever you choose to wear, the most important thing is that you feel comfortable and confident. Cycling doesn’t require a uniform, and by following these basic suggestions you too can enjoy the sport while wearing whatever feels best to you.

I began commuting by bike over two decades ago, but my relationship with riding to work continues to grow. So much so, in fact, that I find myself setting the criteria of where I work and live dependent on whether it’s rideable. Be warned, cycle commuting can change your life. .

Like many now-committed commuters, I wasn’t a 'cyclist' when I began – I started cycling to work on an old mountain bike out of financial necessity, as the cost of travel was getting ever more expensive. Then, following the acquisition of a Brompton folding bike, commuting became a necessity for me, and not for financial reasons.

Over the years, I have continually adapted my commute, my choice of route, and of course my bike, all in the name of keeping the journey a joy. And now, for those of you looking to take to two wheels, I'd like to share a few of the mistakes I made, and offer some advice that will, hopefully, help you to make the most of your commute, and even enjoy it.

1. Buying a cheap bike lock

This is a common mistake, and one that I made. The reason it's number one in my list of advice? My first bike was stolen. After that I quickly upgraded to one of the best bike locks I could buy. Which in turn allowed me to buy a better bike, safe in the knowledge I wasn't going to lose it. When looking at locks there are several things to consider, most importantly look for a Sold Secure lock. This is an independent company that tests locks and rates them. Their rating is trusted by insurance companies, many of which will insist on a silver or gold rated lock if you leave your bike outside or in an unsecured area.

If you’re getting your bike through a scheme like Cycle to Work, don’t forget you can add accessories to the bundle like locks, lights, helmet and so forth. While we're on the subject of security

2. Buying the wrong bike light

When it comes to lights, brighter does not automatically mean better. It's better to buy the lights you need for your commute route. I made the mistake of buying the brightest light with the most lumens when I moved to the countryside, but it was awful for illuminating rural lanes. In an urban environment a bright light with a focused beam but minimal spread might be all you need.

But if your commute includes unlit roads your light beam needs to be wider, to light up more than just a narrow spot in front of you. Test the breadth of the beam before you buy a light; there’s more advice on buying the best bike light for you in our dedicated guide.

A few more tips: position your lights dipped towards the road to avoid dazzling other road users (if you blind them, even briefly, there's a small chance it could cause an accident). Also, keep charging cables at home and at work – and leave them in your commuting bag when not in use, even in the summer months. You can also attach small daytime running lights to your bike which, while not lighting the road, will allow you to be seen by other road users.

3. Going without mudguards/fenders

Some urban riders think they're too cool for mudguards, but you soon overcome any such misplaced vanity once you begin commuting five days a week throughout the year. It's far more embarrassing to turn up to work with a huge mud stripe up your bum and back. I tried all sorts of waterproof jackets and waterproof trousers, but they all failed where the best mudguards triumphed. An additional benefit to fitting full mudguards is they keep you and the bike clean(er) – meaning that components last longer with less bike cleaning. You'll want to keep your shoes and socks dry too, which a front mudguard can do if there's surface water around.

4. Shouldering all the weight

While there are lots of good commuter backpacks out there, if you have to carry anything of significant weight my advice is to invest in a quality pannier rack for your bike, and a waterproof bag. I have used satchels, messenger bags and rucksacks, and while convenient, they can put added pressure on your backside as the weight sits directly above.

They can also lead to a sweaty back even in the depths of winter. And being top heavy on a bike is not great for balance. With a rack and panniers, these problems are instantly removed. Excellent brands like Ortlieb and Tailfin produce racks that fit any bike.

5. Not knowing how to fix a puncture

Oh the shame of walking your bike to the nearest station or all the way home instead of fixing the problem and get back on and riding. I experienced that deflated feeling early on in my cycling life. It was lucky, I guess, that it happened on the way home, rather than the way to work, but it still meant a long, unnecessary walk back to my front door, which would have been a short ride if I’d only known how to replace an innertube, and check the tyre for splinters, flints and general debris before refitting. If you're new to riding, it's worth practicing this at home first. Learning how to use the tyre levers and roll a tyre on and off the rim is essential. You don't want to be doing this for the first time at the side of the road and making yourself late for work.

6. Making do with any old tyres

This leads us perfectly into the next piece of advice. Choosing the correct tyres. There is an overwhelming amount of choice when it comes to tyres, with different treads, compounds, widths and more. All of this is in part dictated by the type of bike you have and therefore the size of wheels.

In general we'd suggest you go for the widest tyre that will fit in your frame, and the heaviest compound. Thinner, lighter tyres are performance focused, so you don't need to worry about these when commuting. You can check out our guide to the best puncture proof tyres for more information or check in at your local bike shop. Wipe them down as often as you can and as you do, check for flints or splits in the tyre itself. And not just the tyre tread. Check the sidewalls too.

7. Leaving your tools at home

Of course, it’s no good knowing how to fix your bike if all the tools you need to fix it are at home. I leave a tote bag with a multi-tool, mini pump, spare inner tube (two if you have room) and puncture repair kit in the bag I use for commuting. A tyre boot is also worth looking at (Even a home made one - a one inch / three cm wide section of a toothpaste tube will do it.) as they take up no room and are life savers in the event of a split tyre. In the winter months, I take me lightweight head torch to help during those night time fixes.

8. Having no spare clothes at work

I always kept a suit, shirts for the week, and shoes in the desk drawer at work, wearing my normal everyday clothes for shorter commutes. This meant the time I rode in without waterproofs and the heavens opened, I sat in damp underwear for the day - a mistake I never made again. Now I leave spare socks and pants at the bottom of my drawer. Of course, if you’re riding in sports kit and wearing cycling shorts (with which you should never wear pants) then you definitely don’t want to make the mistake of leaving underwear at home.

9. Spending unnecessary money on cycling-specific items

When you start commuting – especially if you’re completely new to cycling – it’s easy to think everything you wear on the bike needs to be designed exclusively for riding. Cycling specific kit is great, and designed to make riding more comfortable, but it isn’t always necessary for a commute, especially if it's just a mile or two long.

If you’re riding a hybrid and have a decent breathable waterproof jacket already, you probably don’t need a race cape designed for riding hunched over the drops of a road bike. As soon as something is labelled as cycling specific, expect the price to go up (especially with tools), so it’s worth exploring less specific alternatives. I enjoy hiking, and I’ve found my breathable waterproof jacket and trousers work perfectly well on the bike.

Similarly when it comes to the Allan keys you need to work on your bike. They're all standard sizes and your local hardware store will have a set at wallet-friendly prices (and before you buy any, check your tool box - if you’ve ever bought flatpack furniture you'll likely have some already).

10. Not servicing your bike

One thing not to scrimp on is an annual visit to your local bike shop for an annual service. You wouldn’t (hopefully) forgo giving your car an MOT and service each year, so don’t with your bike. Prevention is always better than cure, and regular care will identify problems before they can happen, saving money and mid-ride breakdowns, as well as ensuring your bike rides as it should. Don’t forget to keep your tyres at the right pressure (see the sidewall for that) and your chain lubed.

11. Not knowing the rules of the road

Most cyclists also drive, so they know the rules of the road. However, your perspective changes dramatically when you start riding bikes on those same roads. While the principles are pretty much the same whatever vehicle you’re using, the way you ride – where you position the bike on the road, avoiding the 'car dooring' zone, approaching junctions, those three (or more!) point checks before manoeuvring – will be different compared to the experience behind the wheel. Take a look at our page on cycling safely on the road for more tips, and look up local training if you’re unsure.

12. Simply replicating my drive to work

Similarly if you’re making the transition from driving to cycling to work, you might be tempted to follow the route you normally drive. Outside of strong cycling nations like the Netherlands or Denmark, that’s likely to have you battling with traffic, on main roads, often with little in the way of cycle infrastructure to make you feel safer.

Your bike will open up new ways to you, that are either closed to driving or just not as convenient – and likely to be quieter and more enjoyable too. Tools like Cycling UK’s Journey Planner, Komoot, RidewithGPS or Strava navigation can help you plot the quietest and flattest routes for cycling, which you’ll soon begin to know like the back of your hand.

13. Not supporting the cause

You know that safe segregated cycle lane which allows you to concentrate on riding and not worry about anything else? It didn’t spring out of the good intentions of your local decision makers. It’s down to your local and national cycling organisations working tirelessly over the years to make the world a better place for bike riders. If you want better cycling infrastructure in the future and for cycling’s voice to be be heard at all levels of government, then support these organisations by joining or donating.

14. Thinking I have to do it every day

You know it’s OK not to commute by bike every day, right? Maybe it’s icy, you’re under the weather, you’ve got to pick up the kids, or perhaps you just don’t feel like it. Commuting by bike is just one of your options for going to work – it’s probably the best one and will continue being the best one so long as you enjoy it, so don’t force it.

This article has been produced as part of our 'New to Riding' week, running from March 10 to March 17, with a special focus on tips, tricks and inspiration for new riders.

It was a moonless night in the big town, starless and bible-black. It was also raining, heavily, and my Brompton folding bicycle had developed its first puncture, helpfully, in the rear tyre.

A street light did its utmost to cut through the gloom, as an increasingly sodden early-2000s version of myself stared at the deflated rubber.

There was a pump on the frame which I initially utilised with great enthusiasm, creating nothing but a hiss of rain hitting the pavement. I had no tools, no clue how to use them anyway, and was beginning to think this cycling lark was pretty rubbish.

I began the sad hobble-bump-hump that comes with pushing a poorly bike in the direction of home, until I found a bus stop half an hour later pointing in the right direction, folded my bike and waited for a big red saviour to put me out of my misery.

The next day I popped along to my local bike shop to get the puncture fixed (reader...I knew no better), paying £10 for the privilege.

My setting might be different but the situation is a common one for beginner cyclists. It’s a rite of passage, and like hill climbing, something which doesn’t really get any easier but which we all get faster and better at doing. And, at some point, we all learn how to stop worrying and - if not to love the puncture for its enforced break and building of community spirit - at least to see it as nothing more than an irritation.

There was a hiatus in my cycling life between childhood and adulthood, marked by who repaired my flats. As a child, it was my mother who kept the wheels of the household in running order. Then, I stopped riding my bike, until I moved to London in 2000 and needed to curb my public transport spending. I escaped puncturing for a good month until that fateful night, but the pillaging of my pocket for a simple fix left me scarred.

My flat mate had been the one who’d reintroduced cycling into my life, and it was to them I turned for advice. I acquired the tools of the trade: a multi tool, mini pump, spare inner, tyre levers, puncture repair kit and spanner; these tools have lived at the bottom of my bike bag ever since.

The power of the puncture

The “Need a hand?”, “You alright mate?” of your fellow cyclist is a reassurance that, even in these darkest of times, some things are all right in the world.

I’ve had pals rescued with the application of multiple inners by the cycling samaritans out there, seen my bike enjoy the careful attentions of a more skilled mechanic than I on countless occasions – every time with good will.

With the skill of fixing a puncture (and other simple repairs) you can play an active part in this community. So the next time you flat mid-ride, think of how you’re building a stronger and better cycling community, stop worrying and love the puncture.

Over the coming months I had plenty of time to practice my craft, for the streets of London seemed to be paved in shards of glass, all destined for my Brompton’s tiny wheels. Fortunately for my second time I was a victim of a slow puncture, and had my ever-helpful flatmate’s guidance while I proceeded to dismantle my bike in the living room, accompanied by coffee and warmth.

I’ll never forget that satisfying and surprising “pop pop” of the tyre settling into place after the hole had been identified and repaired. Like my tyre, I was hooked on the simple achievement I had managed – and the pounds I knew I would save consequently.

Soon I was learning all the tricks: get your bike into its highest gear before removing the wheel, roll the tyre back on and don’t use your levers, puddles or wetting the inner to find the leak, match the tyre brand to the valve so you can easily find the recommend pressure and above all locate the culprit which caused the flat in the first place. Like the millions of cyclists before me and to come, the more I unwillingly was forced to practise the more comfortable I became with the inevitable.

After mastering the Brompton’s Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres, and its peculiar rear derailleurs, I moved on to fixies (tennis ball handy for retaining chain tension), hub gears (keep that washer where it is on your Sturmey Archer!), hydraulic disc brakes (you’ll only squeeze the brake lever once without a wheel in place) before entering into the messy but satisifying-when-it-works-world-ending-when-it-doesn’t life of the tubeless rider, where tyre rim compatibility, sealants and hooks and worms become new parts of the cyclists’ lexicon to learn.

We all go through that period of time where we start weighing up the pros and cons of a truly puncture resistant tyre, as evidenced by the solid rubber tyre on display at the obscure stand at very single cycle show. For me these are a no-go zone, as not only does such a creation limit the joy of the ride, you’ll also miss out on one of the best part of punctures: that restoration of faith in humanity which comes when you’re in roadside repair mode, and another cyclist slows down to ask "Need a hand?".

Riding indoors can be a great way to keep your fitness in dreary weather. It’s also a good option for structured workouts, as it’s much easier to concentrate on maintaining power and cadence numbers without having to worry about other road users or finding a flat piece of road.

But many riders find indoor riding uncomfortable and limit their time on the turbo. Others suffer on, aiming to achieve the fitness gains that indoor riding can offer or simply because they’re hooked on the experience of Zwift, MyWhoosh or their other preferred indoor cycling app.

We asked two bike fitters if there’s benefit in changing your ride position for turbo sessions, if you’re finding it uncomfortable, and got two very different answers, although both agreed that there are changes you can make which will help alleviate problems.

If you’re using your outdoor bike on a trainer and you’re happy with how it’s set up for outdoor riding, unless you’re only riding it indoors, you’re probably not going to want to play with your set-up.

So a premise here is that you’ve got an alternative, an N+1 bike or an indoor bike, that you use for indoor riding, giving you the flexibility to change things.

Make changes to your set-up for comfort and performance indoors

Nas Karimi, head of bike fitting at Pearson Cycles in Sheen, South London advocates adopting a specific ‘indoor set up’.

“If you’re only riding for around an hour a week, you’re probably okay; it’s when it gets to six hours or so per week that problems occur,” he says. “Indoor training is a very different experience to riding outdoors and bike fits aren’t tailored to indoor riding, even if they take place on a stationary bike. The main issues are that you’re not altering your position and the bike isn’t moving laterally.”

Karimi points out that, with your ride position not changing significantly during a turbo session, you’re putting a lot of strain on your back and upper body. You don’t freewheel and, with no momentum indoors, seated to standing transitions have a different effect too.

Along with poor fit, such as having cranks that are too long, longer indoor sessions can lead to hip and knee pain.

“There’s little activation in the glutes, as you’re in general sitting up when on the turbo,” he says.

Some of Karimi’s clients are doing 100-mile Zwift rides indoors, while he has one who has been training for the Race Across America 90 percent indoors and found that it didn’t actually improve his readiness for the event.

So for longer turbo sessions, Karimi advocates experimenting with some significant changes to your position to increase comfort and ensure that you’re getting maximal gains from your workouts. He also advocates pre- and post-ride stretches, warming up properly, taking breaks and making a conscious effort to change your posture, stretch, twist and stand while riding.

Moving the bars closer, changing their angle and raising them can help alleviate problems, he says. Experimenting with slightly moving your saddle for/aft or altering the angle can also help reduce saddle discomfort and allow you to shift your weight more as you train.

“If you have a dedicated indoor bike, you should consider fitting a softer saddle, as there’s more consistent pressure on your saddle when riding indoors,” Karimi says.

As an example, he points to the Selle Italia SLR Boost Endurance Superflow, which is the same shape as the rest of the SLR Boost Superflow range, just with more padding.

If you have the luxury of owning an indoor bike, Karimi points out that there’s huge scope to fine-tune your configuration and see what works. Not only can you adjust the saddle and bar position, but in most cases you can alter the crank length, although Zwift Ride only provides 170mm crank length. He suggests reducing your crank length by a notch may lead to smoother pedalling.

The exception to his advice is time trial bikes, where Karimi says that training your body to hold your position in the aerobars is important.

Maximise outdoor gains with a mirrored set-up

Simon Steeles, a bike fitter and Level 3 coach at Crank Cycle Coaching based in Worthing, Sussex, approaches the question from a slightly different angle, arguing that your indoor set-up should directly mirror your outdoor co-ordinates.

“Your set-up should be close to your road bike, even down to the same saddle,” he says. “You need to train your position and learn how to hold it. If you change your position indoors, you will change the load on your muscle groups.”

Steeles suggests that if you are uncomfortable indoors, a bike fit may help to address problems. He’s found that for his clients saddle pressure mapping and choosing an appropriate saddle can help to address saddle discomfort both indoors and outdoors.

In particular, he counsels against altering your saddle height between indoor and outdoor riding.

Whilst the two approaches appear to conflict, the decision for the reader will be based upon their goals: if you’re riding indoors with a goal of performance outdoors, identical set-ups will ensure you’re training in the position that you intend to adopt. If, however, indoor challenges and racing beckon, you may wish to make tweaks.

Are wobble boards or rocker plates a good investment?

Steeles and Karimi both suggest that there are advantages in having some movement in the system, rather than a totally static set-up.

A wobble board (a.k.a. a rocker plate) will help to alleviate saddle pressure under effort. Steeles has recently started to use one and says that it’s allowed him to increase his session times significantly from his previous sub-one hour turbo rides.

High-end trainers from Wahoo, Tacx and Kinetic allow some side-to-side motion as you ride, putting less stress both on your bike and your body. Both the Wahoo Kickr Move and the Tacx Neo 3M also allow forward and aft movement, which may help to reduce pressure on the body during rapid accelerations when doing intervals.

Both bike fitters point out that a variable riser such as the Wahoo Kickr Climb and Elite Rizer can allow you to recruit different muscle groups on simulated climbs. It will also change the pressure distribution on the saddle, as measured with a pressure pad, Steeles says, which may improve saddle comfort during sessions.

If your turbo budget won’t stretch to a riser, they both suggest placing an old book or two under the front wheel stand, to raise your wheel slightly and achieve similar benefits. Make sure at least that your bike is level and the front is not lower than the rear.

Experiment if you need to

As is often the case, there are strong arguments for and against adopting a specific indoor bike fit. The ideal approach for you will come down to your personal goals. If your summer calendar is filled with road races, where you aim to breakaway and hold an aero position for hours, you’re best off training in that set-up. However, if you’ll be targeting an indoor race, or just want to get fit in as much comfort as possible, then tweak away.

We all know that sleep is a crucial part of the puzzle when it comes to cycling performance, but what if you're struggling to get enough shut-eye?

We put our questions to Dr Elise Facer-Childs, the deputy director of the sleep and circadian rhythms programme in the faculty for medicine, nursing and health sciences at Monash University, Australia. Facer-Childs has worked with elite and WorldTour teams, helping athletes optimise sleep and biological rhythms to enhance recovery and performance.

How many hours of sleep should we get?

The recommendation from the National Sleep Foundation is seven to nine hours per night for adults. We tend to see athletes needing slightly more, but it does ultimately come down to the individual.

Is there a best time of day to train to complement circadian rhythms?

Training effectiveness depends on individual circadian rhythms. Morning types may perform better earlier, while evening types excel later. Tailoring exercise to natural peaks in energy enhances results. Research suggests that, generally, mornings are better for endurance cycling and more intense cardiovascular sessions, while late afternoon offers a balance of strength, flexibility and reduced cycling injury risk.

What steps can cyclists take to ensure high-quality sleep?

Try to get good-quality sleep by maintaining consistent sleep-wake patterns, creating good sleep habits and behaviours, optimising their sleep environment – cool, dark, and quiet – avoiding caffeine and heavy meals before bedtime, and managing stress. Bear in mind, one night of poor sleep won’t greatly harm performance; it is more about establishing good sleep long-term.

How does overtraining disrupt circadian rhythms?

Overtraining can lead to elevated stress hormones and increased fatigue, owing to disrupted circadian rhythms and sleep. Signs that your internal body clocks might be out of sync include difficulty falling asleep, frequent awakenings during the night and changes to your daytime functioning, alongside drops in performance, irritability and impaired recovery.

How best to nurture regular circadian rhythms?

Athletes could use natural light exposure during the morning to stabilise circadian rhythms. Get up, go outside for a walk. Morning light is a powerful cue for regulating the production of melatonin, a hormone that controls sleep-wake cycles. Exposure to bright light shortly after waking helps reinforce circadian rhythms, improving sleep quality, energy levels, and overall performance.

If I wake during the night, how best to get back to sleep?

Everyone is different, but a few simple things that could help you to get back to sleep are to avoid checking the time, engage in quiet, relaxing activities and avoid stimulating activities. If you continue to struggle, talk to a doctor or sleep consultant. We know that irregular or inconsistent sleep patterns and fragmented sleep can negatively impact overall sleep quality and recovery, leading to decreased performance and increased fatigue.

How does alcohol affect sleep?

While it may help you fall asleep faster, alcohol reduces restorative deep sleep and REM sleep, leaving you feeling less rested. Too much booze can alsp cause more frequent awakenings, further disrupting sleep, and may exacerbate snoring or sleep apnea. It also impacts the body’s natural circadian rhythms, delaying or reducing melatonin production, which is crucial for regulating sleep-wake cycles.

How to sleep like an elite athlete

Sleep coach Nick Littlehales, who is an adviser to British Cycling, provides the following tips for a sound night’s shut-eye

Adjust light gradually: As bedtime approaches, reduce your exposure to bright, blue daylight-like light. Move to dim, warm (amber) light, and then to darkness. The focus should be on limiting light reaching your eyes, not necessarily on making the entire room pitch black.

Check your light levels: Download a free Lux light meter app and measure the brightness (lux levels) of your environment. Aim to keep the light dim and calming before bed.

Stay calm: Avoid intense cardio or other high-energy activities close to bedtime, and don’t overhydrate or eat heavy meals before bed.

Cool down: Your body naturally lowers its temperature as it prepares for sleep. Sleep in a slightly cooler environment (not cold) and use fresh, breathable bedding.

Understand sleep cycles: Sleep works in 90-minute cycles, with the deepest, most restorative stages (stages three and four) happening early in the night. Aim for either four cycles (six hours) or five cycles (7.5 hours) depending on your schedule.

Prioritise sleep quality: The most restorative sleep happens in the first two to three stages. To improve your sleep quality, prioritise daytime habits like physical recovery and mental relaxation.

Wake at the same time: Stick to a consistent wake-up time every day. This helps regulate your body’s rhythm.

For many cyclists, the thought of navigating a roundabout can be daunting, however with a bit of practice and the right strategies, roundabouts can become just another (manageable) part of your cycling journey. In this guide, we’ll explore practical tips and confident strategies to help you ride safely and fearlessly.

How do I ride roundabouts safely?

The aim of a roundabout is to keep traffic flowing smoothly and efficiently. However, for cyclists, they can make you feel vulnerable and confused. As you approach a stream of fast-moving vehicles you have many judgements and decisions to make; when to pull forward into a gap, which lane to be in, how to hold your space and the fear of faster, larger vehicles engulfing you.

If the thought of pedalling onto a roundabout sends shivers down your spine, you’re not alone. Many cyclists share this apprehension, but the good news is that by understanding the basic principles of roundabout navigation, gaining a bit of confidence, and practising some key skills, you'll find roundabouts can be navigated both safely and efficiently. Let’s get started.

Six steps to confidence on roundabouts

Approach with Awareness

The first step to tackling a roundabout is approaching it with full attentiveness. Slow your pace as you approach and take stock of the situation. Take a quick glance over your shoulder so you are aware of what is coming up behind you and where they might position themselves. Be mindful of the traffic flow, vehicle speed, and lanes specifically designated for cyclists if available.

Position Yourself Strategically

Your position on the road as you enter a roundabout is crucial. Aim to establish yourself in the centre of your lane. While it might seem nerve-wracking, taking the lane can prevent vehicles from attempting risky overtakes and gives you the space to manoeuvre as necessary. This tactic is especially important in multi-lane roundabouts. While huddling close to the edge of the road may make you initially feel more comfortable it is a vulnerable position to ride in as it makes it hard for drivers to spot you and reduces the space you have move into if other vehicles encroach on you.

Signal Your Intentions

Clear communication is essential. As vehicles and other cyclists share the road, it's key to signal your intentions early. Use hand signals before entering and exiting the roundabout to inform other road users of your planned movements. If you find signalling difficult whilst also making a turn this is a skill to practice somewhere safe until you are confident. Make sure you signal early to cars behind before moving across a lane or taking an exit.

Stay Aware of Exits

Identify your intended exit before entering and stay aware of it as you move around the roundabout. This mental map aids in your positioning and helps ensure you safely navigate to your desired path without last-minute, erratic movements.

Be Mindful of Larger Vehicles

Larger vehicles, such as lorries and buses, may need extra room to manoeuvre. Allow them the necessary space and avoid lingering in their blind spots or positioning yourself to the sides of them. If feeling particularly unsure, it may be safer and more prudent to wait before entering.

Maintain a Steady Pace

Once you’ve entered the roundabout, maintain a consistent pace. This not only aids in your pedalling efficiency but also helps drivers predict your movement and intentions. Abrupt changes in your speed can cause confusion and potentially hazardous situations.

Tips for roundabouts with cycle paths

In some cases, you may be able to use a cycle path around the roundabout, as opposed to staying within the flow of traffic. If this is available, first, evaluate the cycle path to determine if it is the best option for you. Cycle paths can offer a safer and less stressful journey through a roundabout, especially if you're less confident or if the roundabout is particularly busy. Check for clear signage and road markings indicating the presence of a cycle path.

Transitioning to the Cycle Path

If you decide to use the cycle path, signal your intention early and transition smoothly onto the path, ensuring you give way to pedestrians or other cyclists already using it. Stay alert for any potential hazards such as kerbs, bollards, or debris that might impede your path. Cycle paths around roundabouts are designed to keep cyclists separate from motor vehicles, directing you around the outer edge. Follow the path’s route, observing any give-way markings or traffic signals that may apply specifically to cyclists.

Maintain Awareness

Even when using a cycle path, remain vigilant. Watch for crossing pedestrians, pets, and vehicles entering or exiting driveways or side roads intersecting the cycle path. Use your bell or voice to alert others of your presence if needed. When it’s time to exit the roundabout, look for signage indicating where the cycle path re-joins the main carriageway. Signal your intention and merge safely back onto the road, being cautious of vehicles and other cyclists.

Practice, Practice, Practice

Like any skill, proficiency comes with practice. Break down the skills you need and practice somewhere you feel safe. To navigate a roundabout safely you need to be able to check over your shoulder and clearly signal your intention while still holding a straight line or making a turn. Once you can do these things begin on smaller, less busy roundabouts to build confidence.

Facing roundabouts doesn’t have to be a nerve-wracking experience. Choosing the right path through a roundabout can depend on your comfort level, the traffic conditions, and the design of the roundabout itself. By adopting the strategies outlined here, you will be able to tackle any roundabout on your route in a calm and controlled way.

Have you ever been happily following a bike lane and it suddenly just ends for no obvious reason? Frustrating isn’t it! Why does this happen and what, if anything, can we do about it?

To answer the question, we’ve looked at concerns in the UK and the US, to take into account the differences in planning and local government structure.

Why do UK bike lanes just end?

Adam Tranter, the former West Midlands Cycling and Walking Commissioner, says the reason that bike lanes just end is multi-faceted: “There are many reasons, a lack of long-term funding and a lack of long-term planning. Most funding to councils is given annually and at the last minute, so this means few of them are able to plan and resource for the long term,” is the first part of the explanation.

“Older cycle lanes were not built to the same standards we expect today; councils painted white lines and when things got hard, many just gave up. And another reason is a lack of political will.” He offers an example of a cycle lane he worked on in Coventry [Midlands, UK] with a gap in the middle because residents didn’t want a cycle lane on their road and complained vociferously about it; it takes a very determined and bold Councillor to carry on against noisy opposition. “Fortunately, we had that in Coventry and it will be completed soon, providing a critical link to the local hospital, the major trip attractor for that area,” Tranter says.

Phil Jones is a chartered engineer with over 40 years’ experience. His experience includes preparing transport strategies for major developments and leading street improvement in villages, towns and cities, “Another reason why cycle paths might abruptly end is related to land ownership and legal constraints. In some cases, bike lane planning faces challenges due to complications in acquiring land or negotiating with private landowners, especially on off-road routes. Legal disputes over land use or right-of-way issues can cause delays or terminations of proposed cycle paths. Additionally, historical preservation rules might restrict construction in certain areas, leading to discontinuities in the cycling network. Addressing these legal and ownership issues can be complex and time-consuming, often requiring negotiations that don't always result in a completed path,” says Jones.

“Of course, for road building, the use of Compulsory Purchase Orders is often used by councils and National Highways to solve the problem, but we don’t seem to prioritise cycle paths in the same way,” adds Tranter.

Another reason cycle lanes might run out is the terrain. Certain geographical features, like steep inclines, rivers, or urban infrastructure, can make it challenging to maintain a continuous path. In these cases, planners might opt to end a cycle path rather than construct costly bridges, tunnels, or extensive rerouting. Planning logistics can play a significant role. The complexities of urban planning mean integrating cycle lanes amid bustling streets, public transport systems, and existing infrastructure, which isn’t always feasible. Such logistical hurdles can interrupt otherwise continuous paths.

Funding is clearly a significant part of the problem, and when money runs out, cycle lanes are stopped in their tracks. Regions might have different amounts of money to spend, so cycling can look very different from one area to another. “A good cycle scheme should form part of the network; we always try and connect new cycle paths into a wider system. A local government might have several different pots of funding to make small sections of cycle path, these might look like they are isolated but over time you hope the funding appears to join them up,” says Tranter.

Not all cycle lanes stop for negative reasons, “A final reason is there might not need to be one,” says Tranter. “The cycle path turns off into a side road or lesser road that might not warrant one. Low traffic neighbourhoods can become part of the cycle network, without having a dedicated cycle path because the interaction with cars is minimal.”

If you have ridden a section of cycle lane that seemingly just ends, then Tranter has some advice, “the best you can do in that situation is lobby your local councillor or MP and be heard. No one ever writes in support of something, we only hear from those who don’t want something, this creates an echo chamber where those making decisions think no one wants cycling. Representative opinion polls suggests this isn’t the case.”

Finally, if there is a genuine maintenance issue, not a design issue, say the paint has faded go to your local council website or fixmystreet to report the issue. “It won’t turn a bad cycle lane into a good one but can help improve what is already there” says Tranter.

Why do US bike lanes just end?

According to the Benchmarking Bike Networks report, carried out by The League of American Bicyclists, there are three main methods of turning a bicycle network plan into a reality: capital projects, repaving and site development improvements. The method in question can determine the reason for the sudden stoppage.

Capital projects may involve a major construction, such as a new bridge or road. As Ken McLeod, Policy Director at The League of American Bicyclists, explains, sometimes these projects include bike lanes, “but the roads that lead to and from do not.”

“Capital projects often involve federal funding and that means that the funding is tied to the extent of that project. While a local community could allocate capital to ensure that the bike lanes created by a capital project connect to other facilities, it is not uncommon for that connection to be a longer-term goal over time rather than pursued in parallel with a capital project,” he says, using the example of the $14 million Franklin Road bridge project [in Roanoke, Virginia], where there are bike lanes on the bridge but not leading up to or after it.

Repaving projects are another common reason why bike lanes may get interrupted.

"Repaving is often based on pavement quality and is often done in 5, 10, or 20-year cycles. If a road was repaved before a bike plan was adopted and a later plan calls for a bike lane, then a connecting section may be implemented during repaving, but the road that still meets pavement quality standards won't be touched until its quality degrades," McLeod explains.

"For cyclists, this means a nice, new, and smooth bike lane may disappear into an older, more rough road without any bike lane, and that condition will persist until the older road is repaved.”

New site development projects may require property developers to include pedestrian or bicycle infrastructure, yet "private developments do not extend beyond the site developed and so can easily create a stranded facility," McLeod explains.

While some companies may choose to improve bike facilities on or adjacent to their property voluntarily, they're not required to.

In terms of addressing the issues across all three methods, McLeod says: “Long-term funding and political will may help communities close gaps as bike facilities are implemented through any of the three methods above, but it also requires coordination between projects and processes so that gaps are proactively identified and prioritised for connections.”

Coordination is also key when it comes to working across the various city, county and state jurisdictions.

“One community may have different bike lane standards or plans than an adjacent community and not coordinate making bike lanes continuous between the two communities," McLoead points out. "While regional planning agencies often exist, they also often have little authority to enforce continuity of bicycle facilities and must rely on persuasion to facilitate coordination of continuous facilities.”

Why does it matter if bike lanes suddenly stop?

Firstly, people need to have confidence that they can safely complete their route by bike. “Some people won’t even do the first bit of a route if they can’t do the last bit,” explains Tranter. But cycle lanes that just end don’t help the cause of active travel. “Cycle lanes that don’t join up just make everyone look a bit stupid! When we build cycle lanes, we have to overcome a general ambivalence in society. When you want to build a really good cycle lane, it often requires reallocating some of the road space; you tend to move people from ambivalence to some sort of feeling, positive or negative. For example, if car parking spaces are lost to fit in a cycle path, then that can get attention.”

A poor cycle path helps no one, neither users nor detractors. “It's normally the quality and directness of the route that suffers when cycle paths don’t join up or are high quality. You end up with something that doesn’t get as much usage because it’s not high-quality and the detractors then say they were right all along that it wouldn’t be used.”

What's the weather doing this week? Chances are you'll know, because you're a bike rider. There are few more diligent weather geeks than we who enjoy riding bikes outside – because it can have such a dramatic effect on the enjoyment of it.

But what, really, is the bike rider's nemesis? Ice, surely, is right up there, but many of us would also single out rain. And wind. The invisible and capricious foe that might offer a helping hand – or conspire to ruin our progress and enjoyment, often both within the same ride.

Which leaves us in a quandary.

When you look out of the window on the morning of a ride and see the trees bending in a stiff breeze, do you celebrate because you know you're going to enjoy a tailwind? Or do you feel instantly demoralised at the thought of an inevitable headwind.

Assuming you don't decide to sack it off altogether, which way do you head out the door? Because unless you're riding from A to B, you're going to experience both head and tailwind on the same ride.

"Unfortunately, we're all at the mercy of more headwinds than tailwinds," says Dr B. Xavier Disley of aero experts Aerocoach. "You're going to be going slower and spending more time into the headwind than you will do coming back with the tailwind."

This is because you'll almost inevitably be going slower for any given distance into a headwind than in a tailwind, and therefore taking more time over it. Take a hill with an ascent and descent of the same length and gradient – you'll take longer over the ascent than the descent because of your speed. Head and tailwinds work in the same way.

Just for fun?

Disley points out that your riding goals can dictate how you approach the wind. The big question is whether you want the headwind first, or the tailwind.

"Is it a training ride, or is it just a fun ride?" says Disley. "If it's a training ride and you want to get the most benefit from it, then you want to make it as hard as you can when you can. So you'd want your headwinds up the climbs.

"Whereas if you wanted to even out your speed, you'd probably want to have your tailwinds up the climbs, and then your headwind on the descent part. And then that keeps everything a lot more even."

Like a lot of people, Disley says he prefers to head out straight into the wind while he's still fresh, rather than saving it for the second half "so when you're knackered you're not struggling into a headwind and killing yourself".

There is more besides. Because of the exponentially growing nature of drag, you might consider attempting to engineer your ride so that the headwind falls at the part where you would naturally be riding slowest. This is because it would have less effect on your speed – or at least, the power required to maintain that speed – than it would if you were riding faster.

But the mental and emotional equations need balancing against the scientific ones. If you had the choice would you really want to save the headwind and hills for the second half of your ride? While the science insists the headwind would affect you less, knowing you had by far the hardest part of the ride to come could damage morale and spoil your ride.

Doing it this way would also mean you would be more tired when you hit the headwind, meaning it would be liable to slow you down more.

The other side to this coin is that your freshness in the first half of the ride means you can more readily adopt an aero position to combat the wind. Sixty miles into the ride, your arms and shoulders and back might put up a good deal more fuss when you try to hunker down low.

Friend and foe

Throughout this piece we've examined headwinds, essentially, as the enemy. But it can be worth reframing that. Headwinds might rarely (never) be enjoyable, but they can make for a useful training aid.

A little like a hill, riding into a headwind requires more power for a given speed. No hills? No problem. This can be particularly effective on a flat road if you want to carry out an interval session. (It goes without saying that this is a quiet road and you're being careful, right?).

Doing the efforts into the wind means you'll go slower and not as far for each effort, making it more practical.

It also offers a handy push back to the start.

Headwinds on the average cycling loop are very difficult to quantify, because the shape of the route is almost never uniform, and even the wind itself can change direction.

A perfectly straight out and back, for example, or a perfectly circular loop, might result in equal parts head and tail, but this is rarely the case.

As Disley says: "It's a tricky one to determine, because winds are so changeable and weird. You could have a bit of a crosswind for most of your ride, which can actually give you a bit of a boost at certain points when you turn direction.

"I think the thing to understand is that you'll spend more time in the headwind than you will in a tailwind, all things considered," he concludes.

So, there are various ways you can approach a headwind, but one thing you can't do is make it go away. Tackling it head-on (quite literally) in the early part of the loop is going to make for the most pleasant ride. But if suffering is your goal (or at the very least raising your VO2 max) then you can use it as a tool for efforts, or even save it to the end if you're feeling particularly masochistic.

Either way, you'll appreciate those perfect windless days that come along every now and then even more.

Tadej Pogačar needs no real introduction. The most dominant rider of the 2024 season, the 26-year-old took the triple crown: victory at the Giro d'Italia, Tour de France and World Championships, all in one season.

Is he the Greatest Rider of All Time (GOAT)? That's a matter still up for debate. But, with Tour victories in 2020, 2021 and 2024, as well as the rainbow stripes on his back, he's surely the greatest rider of our time.

Here's what he had to say about what's worked for him in the past year.

How has your new coach Javier Sola helped you improve?

He speaks with me every day, so I can’t slack at any point, not that I ever slacked, but it feels good to always have somone on hand whom you can trust and communicate super well with. I’m also training a little differently – a bit more specific stuff, more targeted towards the races that are coming up. I bring something to him; he brings something to me, some new methods and some new ways of training, and so far it’s working well.

How do you train for those lightning-rapid attacks?

We did a lot of VO2 max this year and also a lot of Zone 2 where you work on your fatigue resistance. This is where I think I improved the most: when I am fatigued, I don’t lose so much of my explosiveness anymore so it’s really an upgrade for me

Describe your off-the-bike training

I did a lot of work in the gym this year, but not so much with weights. I worked a lot with the team’s physio Victor Moreno, and also a physio in Monaco, Alexandre Baccili. He targets specific muscles that I need to develop. We work well together.

Has your nutrition changed?

I’m a bit more serious about it. Urška [Žigart, his partner and fellow pro rider] and I have always known what to eat, but now I’ve started to follow the nutrition plan from Gorka [Prieto-Bellver], our nutritionist, when it’s really necessary. If I don’t need to eat, I don’t eat – it’s about eating only what you need.

Do you use any mental techniques to prepare you for races?

I don’t talk to myself in the mirror, but sometimes if I cannot sleep, or before a race, I imagine the race situation, thinking about what could happen. So many things can happen in cycling so you need to be mentally prepared.

Do you think riding the Giro d’Italia is good preparation for the Tour de France?

If you go to the Giro and make some mistakes, it would be a big problem for the Tour. But for me, I rested well after the Giro, and the Tour went super good for me. I think I was more or less at the same level at the Tour as I was at the Giro, and I knew I could maintain good shape after the Tour too.

Quick fire questions

If you could ride in only one place for the rest of your life, where would it be?

The whole earth! There is no right answer!

Favourite cafe stop snack?

Anything from the bakery. Actually anything.

Favourite sport that isn’t cycling?

Cross-country skiing.

Best quality in a training partner?

Having something to talk about – the time passes much faster.

Worst quality in a training partner?

So slow you have to wait for them.

How would you change cycling?

This is a deep, hard question, and we could talk all day about this.

What might people be surprised to learn about you?

I think people know me better than I know myself now.

Cycling electronics brand Wahoo announced today that its ecosystem of trainers and heart rate monitors is now eligible for purchase using one's Health Savings Account (HSA) and Flexible Spending Accounts (FSA).

With this announcement, Wahoo joins Garmin, Whoop, Oura, and several other leading fitness brands in encouraging insurance companies to recognise their products as valuable investments in health and wellness, and thereby expanding access for consumers.

"We’re thrilled to offer this new integration, expanding access to our products for endurance athletes who want to invest in their fitness and health," said Gareth Joyce, CEO of Wahoo Fitness, in a media statement.

"At Wahoo, we are committed to removing barriers to better training, and this partnership with Truemed is another step toward achieving that goal and helping to build the better athlete in all of us."

With a growing number of wellness products qualifying as HSA/FSA-eligible expenses, consumers can now leverage their healthcare benefits to purchase fitness wearables and other training tools.

Here’s a closer look at what this means for you and how to make the most of your funds.

To learn more about what other cycling benefits may be lurking in your health insurance, read our article on the five hidden health insurance benefits every cyclist should know article.

What is an HSA/FSA?

In the United States, there are various types of health insurance plans, such as PPO (Preferred Provider Organization) plans and high-deductible health plans paired with Health Savings Accounts (HSA).

HSAs and FSAs are two types of tax-advantaged accounts that allow you to set aside pre-tax funds for certain medical expenses.

With an FSA, you must use the funds within the year or risk losing them, while the funds in an HSA belong to you and roll over year after year.

These accounts are typically offered through employers, and the funds can be used for a variety of healthcare costs, including an increasing amount of products that promote health and fitness.

What Products Are HSA/FSA Eligible?

Over the past few years, an increasing number of fitness products have become eligible for purchase under HSA/FSA plans, particularly those that track key metrics like heart rate, blood pressure, sleep and overall wellness.

These devices now fall under preventative care and are considered legitimate tools to help individuals actively manage and improve their health. This shift aligns with a broader trend in the healthcare industry, where more emphasis is being placed on prevention and holistic wellness.

Eligible products include:

WAHOO:

KICKR smart trainers, KICKR bikes, Heart Rate Monitors and RPM bike cadence sensors.

GARMIN:

Wellness wearables such as heart rate monitors and the Index BPM smart blood pressure monitor as well as the Index S2 smart scale.

COROS:

Watches and heart rate monitor are eligible.

WHOOP:

Whoop's wrist-based activity and wellness tracker, all WHOOP memberships and WHOOP Battery Pack.

OURA:

The Oura ring and memberships.

How to Use Your HSA/FSA Funds to Buy Fitness Products from Wahoo, Garmin and More

1. Review your health insurance plan to see if you have an HSA/FSA.

2. Verify eligibility. Many brands clearly label their HSA/FSA-eligible products. However, you'll want to confirm a product’s eligibility with your HSA/FSA provider.

3a. Use your HSA/FSA card when checking out.: If you have a dedicated debit card for your HSA/FSA account, simply use it at checkout from the brand's official website.

3b. File for reimbursement. If you do not have a dedicated card and purchase the product out of pocket, you can submit a claim for reimbursement through your HSA/FSA provider’s portal.

4. Keep Documentation. Always save receipts in case your provider requests proof of medical necessity.

If you are more familiar with the gears in your car than the gears on your bike, then you’re not alone. Bike gears, and how they work, frequently come up as a concern among beginner cyclists, but there’s no need to be worried - read on to get started on the journey to smoother shifting and slicker pedalling.

In this article, we're looking at manual cars vs manually operated bike shifting. Some of the best electric bikes offer automatic shifting, which takes the thinking out of the process, much like an automatic car.

Bike gears vs car gears

Your bicycle’s gear ratios help control the effort needed to pedal and the speed you can achieve. The gear ratio is determined by the size of the front chainring compared to the rear cassette cog.

A higher gear ratio, achieved with a larger chainring (with more teeth) or smaller cog (with fewer teeth), makes pedalling harder but allows you to travel faster, ideal for flat terrain. A lower gear ratio, with a smaller chainring (with fewer teeth) or larger cog (with more teeth), makes pedalling easier but slower, perfect for climbing hills. By shifting gears, you can efficiently adjust your effort to match riding conditions.

A bicycle’s gears don’t work so differently to car gears, except that it is you providing the power. In a car the gears work to match the engine's power output with the vehicle's speed, allowing efficient acceleration and deceleration. Lower gears provide more torque (force) and are used for starting and slow speeds, while higher gears reduce engine revolutions per minute (RPM) needed to maintain speed, which in a car helps with fuel efficiency and is used for faster driving.

Unlike cars, which rely on an engine for power, a bike is powered by you. Shifting gear helps you to manage your effort and can make cycling feel easier. This still applies if you're riding an e-bike, as you still need to pedal to keep moving, you'll just receive assistance to make the effort easier.

The distance travelled per pedal stroke on a bicycle is determined by the relative size of the front chainring and the rear cassette cog. A gear ratio is calculated by dividing the number of teeth on the front chainring by the number of teeth on the rear cog. When you are in a higher gear (larger front chainring and smaller rear cog), the gear ratio increases. This means that for each pedal stroke, the rear wheel turns more times, allowing the bicycle to travel a greater distance. Conversely, in a lower gear (smaller front chainring and larger rear cog), the gear ratio is smaller. This reduces the number of wheel rotations per pedal stroke, resulting in a shorter distance travelled.

Shifting gear allows you to manage the physical effort you need to turn the pedals and tackle changes in gradient.

Your bike’s gear components

Chainrings and Cogs: Located at the front and rear of your bike respectively, these components form the foundation of your gearing system. The chainrings are connected to the pedals, while the cogs are part of the rear cassette attached to your rear wheel.

Derailleurs: Often referred to as your front or rear mech, these guide the chain from one chainring or cog to another as you shift. The front derailleur manages shifts on the chainrings, and the rear derailleur handles those on the cassette. Some bikes have single chainrings on the front, so, won’t have a front mech as there is no need to shift.

Shifters: Gear shifters are usually mounted on the handlebars, on much older bikes you may see them on the downtube. By using the shifters, you can change gears by altering the chain's position across the different cogs and chainrings. To change gear, you have to be pedalling so that chain is moving smoothly as it is lifted it onto a new chain ring or cog. You cannot change gear while free-wheeling.

Improve your cycling experience with better gear shifting

Gears allow you to maintain your cadence. Cadence, or how fast you pedal, is crucial for efficient cycling and reducing the strain on both your bike and your body. Keeping a consistent cadence — often somewhere between 60 to 90 revolutions per minute (RPM) — helps prevent muscular fatigue. Gears let you adjust to maintain this rhythm even as conditions change. When climbing a steep hill, switching to a lower gear reduces the resistance at the pedals, allowing you to maintain a steady cadence without exhausting your legs. On flat roads, higher gears let you go faster and ensures that your legs are still pushing against a resistance.

Tips for Mastering Your Gears

Spend some time experimenting with your gears. Start on a flat surface to get used to the sensation of shifting, then try different terrains to see what feels best. Pedal gently and feel the type of pressure you need to gently coax the chain onto the next cog or chain ring.

Shift gears before you hit a hill or begin to descend. Anticipating changes in terrain keeps your momentum steady and reduces the strain on your chain and derailleurs. Remember to keep pedalling while you shift with the minimum amount of pressure needed to turn the pedals and move the chain. If you shift late on a steep hill and have to stamp hard on the pedals this can cause damage to your components.

Listen to your bike, a smooth gear change should be almost silent. If you hear clunking or grinding, it may be a sign that your gears aren’t aligned properly or need adjustment.

Frequently shifting gears to match the terrain reduces the strain on both the mechanical components of your bike and your own body, protecting your bike from damage and making cycling feel easier; working on improving your pedalling technique will up your cycling performance.

When you purchase a car, the manufacturer will typically provide maintenance recommendations based on mileage to ensure that it will keep performing safely and consistently over time. Vehicle owners can use these recommendations to decide for themselves whether to have this work done at a dealership or by an independent mechanic of their choosing. Scheduled or mileage-based maintenance prevents issues that could cause harm to passengers or those outside the vehicle.

Bicycles are far less complex than cars, but still require regular maintenance for optimal performance. It’s rare, however, for a bike manufacturer to provide a scheduled maintenance sequence the same way car makers do. Many shops offer a free one-time tune-up with a bike purchase, but after that, customers are left to their own devices to stay on top of service and maintenance, often without much information at their disposal to ascertain the bicycle’s needs.

Longtime riders may be familiar with the upkeep a bicycle requires, but for new and casual riders, there is a bit of a knowledge gap. A good shop will be able to help to inform and educate a customer, while a less scrupulous one could prey on their lack of expertise.

Because there are so many different kinds of riding people do, there are no single “one-size-fits-all” maintenance recommendations that will work for everyone. Everyone rides differently and how to maintain your bike will depend on your location, the type of bike you own, the amount of riding you do, the conditions in which you ride, and more. Thus, there’s a lot of possible variation in what each bike requires.

I’m not going to delve into the nuts and bolts of maintenance here—instead I’m going to offer up some tips for how you can better take care of your bike, without a strict maintenance schedule.

Step 1? Get to know your bike better.

1. Pay attention to your bicycle

You don’t need to know the name of every different bit on your bike, but you should know what a happy, healthy bike sounds like and be able to recognize when something is amiss. You also don’t need to be able to solve the problem when something is creaky or rattely—you can if you want to, but it’s fine to take it to a professional (see #5). Your job is to know your bicycle intimately. Look at it, take pictures of it, listen to it, you can even smell it if you want, the goal is to be familiar with it. Clean it regularly (see #2) and you will soon become acquainted with all of its nooks and crannies and learn which parts go where.

2. Wash your bike often (well, as often as is necessary…)

I don’t always keep my bikes as clean as I should, but it’s because I like to wash them all at once, and I have a few. My drivetrains are always spotless, however, thanks to the wonder of immersion wax and chain rotation, so I’m not too worried about a little road grit on the frame. Sometimes, a bike just needs a wipe-down after riding through a puddle, and sometimes, it requires a full tear-down and rebuild (like after a particularly muddy cyclocross race), but if your bikes are clean, then you can make sure nothing’s broken and easily monitor wear and tear.

3. Keep a maintenance log

This one is easy enough: find an old notebook or journal, or else create one digitally, and use it to keep track of the maintenance you’ve done. This is particularly useful for things like chain swaps, brake bleeds, tyre replacements and the like. Trust me, if you don’t write it down, you will forget when you last swapped cassettes and how many miles you've got on your chain.

Keeping notes becomes even more critical when you own multiple bikes. This allows you to refer back to previous maintenance and recognize patterns and potential chronic issues. I also highly recommend keeping a longer to-do list of bike tasks in your workshop, it could be in the same notebook or on a whiteboard on the wall, but writing things down is always worthwhile.

4. Strava can track your bike's mileage

If you aren’t accustomed to doing bike upkeep based on feel, then there are a few ways you can stay on top of it with digital tools. One of these is with calendar alerts: putting bike maintenance into your calendar system of choice offers a helpful reminder so you don’t end up with a catastrophic mechanical failure. You could put in an alert to check drivetrain wear once a month on Saturday, for instance, or to bleed your brakes (or swap brake cables) annually at the start of each year.

If you are a Strava user, you can use the platform to track mileage on individual bikes and even individual components. This can be done by going into “My Gear” in the “Settings” menu and then clicking on each bike listed. At the bottom of the page is a section titled “Components” where the software allows you to choose from a drop-down menu, add parts to each bike listed, and track mileage for each one separately.

5. Build a rapport with your local shop

Hopefully, you have a local bike shop where you live, and if you live somewhere with many shops to choose from, count yourself lucky! Stop in, say hello, and drop off cold seltzer waters on hot days. Most importantly, buy stuff from them. You want the mechanics at the shop to be a) happy to see you, and b) happy to help you out in a pinch. Thus, when you need one single calliper bolt the day before your big riding trip, you have a place to source it from. Even if you’re comfortable doing most of your maintenance at home, it’s still good to have a place for those times when you need an expensive tool to fix something or get too busy to finish a task. A good bike mechanic is worth their weight in gold.

Conclusion

Bike ownership doesn’t neccsarily require getting your hands dirty, but it’s fun to do from time to time. Some people are tinkerers and some aren’t. But if you want to really get to know your bike, then I recommend digging beneath the surface a little bit every now and again.

Everyone on a group ride will appreciate the person who has an extra tyre boot and knows how to use it. It may take years to get comfortable with working on your own bike, or you may decide it’s just not for you—that’s OK! But you still need to know enough to be able to bring it in for service before the wheels fall off. There’s nothing worse than riding with a friend and having them point out that annoying clicking noise that somehow escaped your notice.

It’s up to you to learn what your bike needs based on how and where you ride it. Always keep in mind that regular preventative maintenance is preferable to unscheduled catastrophic failure.

Much like cold weather outerwear, fenders or mudguards are a regional requirement: critical in some places, laughable in others. If you live in a place with regular seasonal precipitation, fenders are a necessity. As someone who grew up in New England and has spent the last decade in the PNW, I’ve tried nearly every type of fender there is, and I have learned a few things along the way. For those of you in an arid or semiarid climate, you can skip this one: go ahead and enjoy your dry roads, cloudless skies and the knowledge that while you may live in a riding paradise, you are soft. (Only joking.)

I live in Seattle, Wash., which sees roughly 150 rainy days a year. For the vast majority of those days, it’s just kind of a drizzle. Staying in when roads are wet would mean never getting to ride your bike. And while it’s not much fun to get caught in a downpour, riding in the rain can be pleasant if you have the right gear. A breathable, water-shedding jacket, warm gloves, and shoe coverings are helpful, but the most important piece of equipment is a pair of fenders/mudguards. Here’s why: when it’s raining, most of the water is on the ground. Well-fitted fenders keep it that way.

Types of fenders / mudguards

Fenders/mudguards come in a few types. First is the small clip-on variety, such as the appropriately named Ass Saver. This nifty piece of polypropylene takes just seconds to install and will help prevent road spray from befouling your chamois. It won’t do much for you if it’s actually raining, but for damp roads, it works great to keep the back half of you dry.

Next up are larger, partial coverage clip-on fenders like the SKS Race Blade, which mount to your frame and fork with rubber-band type fitments and will help keep you dry but do not fully protect your bike from rain and road grime. These work well enough on a bike without mounting points but are not as robust as full-coverage fenders. Even if installed carefully, they can shift around while riding and can also mar paint or scratch up a bike.

The last, and best, fender option is full-coverage fenders, such as those made by Velo Orange or Portland Design Works, which attach via the dedicated mounted points on your frame and fork (— typically two locations on the front and three on the rear). These will not rattle around or move while riding and fully protect a bike, rider and drivetrain from the elements. High-end metal fenders will seamlessly blend in, too, closely matching the lines of the tyres to appear visually cohesive.

Installation Tips and Tricks

Over the years I’ve had lots of practice installing fenders on bikes. Our household has multiple bikes that have fenders on them seasonally; they get installed in the fall and removed in the spring.

The first install is always the trickiest as you puzzle out the appropriate number of spacers and fasteners at each mounting location. Expect to budget thirty minutes to an hour for an installation. If you get easily frustrated by fiddly things, then bring your bike to a local shop and have fenders installed by a professional.

If you’re persisting with your own installation, here are some tips:

• Always start with the front fender—it’s easier
• Attach the stays before the bridges, but do not fully tighten fasteners until the end
• Be prepared to take the wheels on and off a few times to dial everything in
• Take the time to get the fender lines right—this may take a while, but it’s worth it
• Make sure the fenders aren’t holding tension
• Once the radius matches the tyre’s circumference perfectly, the final stem should be to centre the fenders over each wheel

It’s important to check all the bolts regularly, as even Loctited fasteners can work themselves loose. Having a fender break off unexpectedly will cause catastrophic failure and very likely put you on the ground. You do not want this to happen.

When it comes time to remove them, do not just quickly and carelessly strip things off without paying attention. To save yourself the same angst next time you need to install them, label which bolts went where and put the whole lot of bolts, nuts and spacers into a plastic bag so they’re ready to go again next time. This will make future installs much smoother.

Fenderly Asked Questions

What’s the difference between fenders and mudguards?

These are simply region-specific terms. They mean the same thing.

How wide should my fenders be?

Wider than your tyres. Ideally, 5 mm wider on either side. So, if you’re running 35 mm tyres, you should look for 45 mm wide fenders.

Which is better, plastic or metal fenders?

I prefer metal fenders, as they usually are stiffer and lighter, and they look better. They’re usually more expensive than plastic, however.

How much space do I leave between tyre and fender?

There’s a little bit of personal preference here, depending on where you ride. For road riding applications where debris is minimal, 5 millimetres is usually adequate. This gives the tyre a little bit of wiggle room, but keeps fenders tucked out of the way (minimizing toe overlap on the front). For gravel or other off-road ventures, you’ll want to leave additional space—at least 1 centimetre—to make room for mud, pebbles and the like to pass through without getting stuck or causing punctures.

What is a “buddy flap”?

A buddy flap is an extra-long mud flap that attaches to the rear of the back fender. An appropriately sized one will almost reach the ground, thus preventing any spray from hitting a person riding behind you. Typically made of rubber or leather. Necessary if you like your friends.

Final Thoughts

If you live in a wet climate, then I recommend owning a bike with fender mounts and purchasing some high-quality metal fenders. Take your time installing them, so that the fender lines match with the tyres and are evenly centred over each wheel—there’s nothing worse than looking down at a crooked fender over your front wheel.

Once they're installed, make sure to check your fasteners every few rides to ensure that nothing gets loose.

Some riders will leave fenders on a bike all year round, while others will take them off seasonally; either way is fine, just make sure you have a buddy flap when you’re riding with friends.

In 2023 alone, police in England and Wales received over 64,000 reports of bicycle theft. Whilst that figure marked a 12% decline on the previous year’s tally, bike theft is endemic and the chances of recovery are slim, a situation which is mirrored throughout the world.

Being insured is one thing, but ensuring that your policy covers all eventualities, especially theft, requires a thorough understanding of the fine print.

Every year at least 1 in 20 theft insurance claims are deemed invalid – according to UK Financial Conduct Authority data. For a chunk of bike theft victims that means being hit with the double whammy of having a bike stolen, and not being paid out by their insurer because of a technicality in the small print.

“Be aware, your policy could be easily invalidated by inadvertently breaking some simple rules such as not using an approved bike lock or leaving it unattended for too long in certain locations,” says Lee Evans, bicycle insurance expert at Quotezone.co.uk.

According to Richard Cantle, founder of Stolen Ride policy wordings will vary between different cycle insurance providers. “It can be easy to get caught out for not meeting specific requirements,” explains Cantle, who created the platform in 2012 to help reduce bike theft after experiencing it first-hand. “It’s important to double-check the policy wording of your insurance to make sure you meet all the necessary criteria.”

Reasons your bicycle insurance could become invalid

Policies will vary, but, there are common themes. Where you leave it, why you leave it, and what you lock it with are key factors when it comes to how well your insurance policy covers your bike being nicked.

Your cycle isn’t secured to specification

Securing your bike is most likely something you do automatically but do check the small print in your policy for any stipulations. “There may be a specific list of approved locks you need to choose from with various ratings, depending on the value of your bike,” says Evans.

“Also, you normally need to have the lock through the main frame and any quick release wheels – secured to an immovable object. If you’re not sure, check with your insurer.”

Take note here too that you should also check your ‘at home bike storage’ - you may need to use an anchor lock cemented into the ground or an immovable object and store the bike out of sight from any windows.

You’re using your bike to make money

If you’re a cycle courier, or you’re using your bike to make an income from – eg; a takeaway delivery rider - then your bike isn’t covered under your standard bicycle insurance. “You will need to take out separate cover such as bicycle courier insurance,” insists Evans.

“It’s because there are more risk factors involved than cycling for pleasure,” adds Evans. “For example, a bicycle courier will likely rack up more time and miles on the road, increasing the likelihood of an accident – the cyclist may also be riding in unfamiliar areas with multiple deliveries to do quickly.”

Bicycle courier insurance also covers a wider range of risks, such as third-party liability - which is required for working as a bicycle courier - and loss or damage to any goods during transit.

You left it alone for too long

“Part of the joy of cycling is to explore new places and stop off for breaks and coffees in new towns or villages, it’s not always possible to have the bike locked to an immovable object,” says Michael Kirk, from Quotezone.co.uk. “Some insurance providers say if you leave your bicycle in your eyeline within 5m of where you’re sitting, say grabbing a coffee mid-cycle, then you should still be covered in the event of theft.”

But it’s important to note that all insurance providers are different so cyclists need to check their policies for dos and don’ts. “The small print in your policy may also state how long you can leave your bike unattended for and any separate stipulations on location,” adds Kirk. “For example, some may not cover leaving your bike unattended at a railway station or have a time limit of how long you can do so.”

Your insurance history

If you’ve claimed previously on bicycle insurance, make sure your insurer is aware. If you fail to inform them of any bicycle-related losses in the last three years, they could deny a claim or your insurance could become invalid.

Your record of purchase

If you do make a claim, you will need proof of ownership. The original receipt or a letter from the cycle shop confirming the purchase details with a date included – to help stop people making fraudulent claims. “Most insurance providers stipulate a receipt or purchase details on headed paper from the bicycle shop in question, as valid forms of proof of ownership,” explains Kirk.

“If the cyclist doesn’t have either, it’s best to chat to their insurance provider directly, they may accept a photo with a time and date stamp or a bank statement with details of the purchase transaction. The owner may also need proof that they have purchased an approved lock - to show they’ve taken precautions to stop the bicycle from being stolen.”

Your medications (or, pub rides)

Here’s a random one. Your insurance won’t cover you if you ‘break the law, ride recklessly or if you’re cycling under the influence of drugs or alcohol’. However, some medications specifically say on their small print not to ride a bike if you start to suffer any side effects such as drowsiness or blurred vision. Always check the instructions and if the label says ‘do not operate heavy machinery’ - that often includes riding a bike, so double check with your pharmacist.

Limited chances of recovery

“We’re notified of over 500 recoveries of stolen bikes per year,” says James Brown, Managing Director of BikeRegister.com, a database of currently 1.3m bikes, which is used by UK Police forces, to protect and return stolen machines. “We assume that there will be some owners who forget to update the status of their bike to ‘Recovered’ on their account after getting their bikes back, so the number may be more than that.”

But even if double that number are recovered - say, 1000 - out of 64,000 bikes stolen it’s still a measly 1.6% return rate.

Updating the recovered bikes section on BikeRegister needs to be improved by some police forces too, according to Brown. “Some police forces are excellent at doing this, both when bikes are checked in to property stores and on the streets. Other forces may not be as good, due to lack of resources etcetera.”

Registration with BikeRegister is free, but for an upgraded membership you can also buy additional layers of protection such as discreet marking - tagging your bike with hundreds of microscopic UV visible dots - and warning labels.

“We provide the police with the BikeRegister apps to carry out searches on frame numbers and BikeRegister IDs via mobile devices on the street. Insurers such as Bikmo also offer a reduction in premium on BikeRegister marked bikes.”

“But another reason why recovering stolen bikes is such a challenge is the ease of method of disposal,” adds Brown. “With online platforms, like Gumtree and Facebook Marketplace, a bike can be stolen and sold online in a matter of hours.” In the cases where organized thieves essentially steal bike brands to order, the ‘disposal’ time is almost as fast as the theft itself.

Reduce your risk of bike theft

A trawl through the X feed of Stolen Ride - a platform set up to help reunite owners with stolen bikes - shows quite how determined thieves can be, “my bike was stolen from a CODED metal bike shed within a GATED community”, one user writes. However, opportunistic thieves can be deterred.

Doing all you can to reduce the likelihood of your bike being stolen will reduce the risk of you having a running battle with your bike insurance firm, too.

• Double lock your bike: Using two high-quality locks, especially a D-lock, makes it harder for thieves to steal your bike. Using different types of locks, like a chain and a D-lock, increases security since thieves are less likely to carry tools for both.
• Go ‘Sold Secure’: Sold Secure approved locks are approved by crime prevention officers and insurance companies. They come in four levels of theft resistance: The Gold and Diamond levels offer the highest protection against thieves using specialized tools such as angle grinders.
• Lock both frame and wheels: Always lock the bike’s frame and both wheels to a solid structure. This makes it harder for a thief to remove parts or take the whole bike.
• Choose secure parking: Always lock your bike in a well-lit, CCTV-monitored, designated cycle parking area. This deters thieves by increasing the chances of getting caught.
• Register your bike: If you’re in the UK, you can “record your bike’s frame number on the National Cycle Database (BikeRegister),” says James Brown. “This helps police trace your bike if it's stolen and recovered. We also post on our stolen bike gallery - allowing members of the public to contact owners of stolen bikes if they spot it being sold online.”
• Security mark your bike: Marking your bike is an effective visual deterrent. Thieves avoid marked bikes since they are easier to trace and harder to sell. To improve the chances of recovery, cyclists should make it a habit to note down their bike’s serial number and take photos of their bike.
• Prioritize home security: Even at home, lock your bike as securely as you would in public. Avoid advertising that you own a bike by removing visible car racks or creating privacy zones on tracking apps like Strava.

“The most effective method of preventing your bike from being stolen is installing a tracking device like a hidden Apple AirTag or a GPS tracker,” suggests John Vinton, a bike expert specializing in personal security with Aventon Bikes.

“Quality tracking devices can send alerts if the bike leaves a pre-set virtual boundary, or if a third party is tampering with it – you can then provide tracking data and location updates to the police in order to help recover it.”

“But thieves often look for obvious trackers, so you need to get creative with hiding spots,” explains Vinton. “I always recommend tucking it inside the bike frame, especially within the seat post or handlebar stem. These spots keep the tracker well-hidden while still allowing it to transmit a strong signal.”

“E-bike owners have an advantage as the area near the battery compartment offers plenty of room for concealment,” adds Vinton. “The goal is simple: if you have trouble spotting where the tracker is hidden, a thief probably will too.”

“Many insurance companies offer discounts on bicycle insurance premiums when a GPS tracker is installed,” adds Vinton. “This is because GPS trackers increase the chances of recovering a stolen bike, deter potential thieves and provide real-time location data in case of theft.”

It’s an additional expense but worth considering if it means you may be reunited with what’s for some of us is the love of one’s life.

We’ve all been there. After obsessively checking the weather forecast, you stand in front of your closet, staring at your cycling gear. You weigh your options, hem and haw over which layers to wear. Will a base layer and light jacket suffice, or will you be shivering by mile ten? Should you start off in knee warmers or ditch them altogether? The wrong choice can lead to shivering descents or sweat-soaked climbs, quickly turning an enjoyable ride into a miserable slog.

Before you second-guess that extra layer—or leave one behind—turn to our temperature-by-temperature dress guide. It’s designed to help you get out of the door faster, and ride in comfort no matter the weather.

Disclaimer: Keep in mind that your riding environment and terrain can significantly impact how you experience temperature. Wind exposure, rain, ride intensity, and changes in elevation can all alter how warm or cool you feel during a ride. When in doubt, it’s always better to bring along an extra layer just in case —you can always shed a layer if you’re too warm, but if you’re underdressed, there’s no quick fix for the cold.

32°F and below

If you’re riding in temperatures below freezing, more power to you. But riding in such cold weather can bring a real concern for frostbite or hypothermia if you are not dressed correctly. As such, you’ll want to ensure you’ve got on a variety of layers that are windproof and potentially waterproof or water-resistant if snow or sleet is in the forecast.

Tops:

- Long-sleeve baselayer

- Thermal long-sleeve jersey

- Insulated, windproof and/or water-proof jacket. Even if it's not raining, a hardshell will go a long way in keeping the chilly air out.

Bottoms:

- Thick thermal bib tights

Accessories:

- Thermal neckwarmer (Buff) or balaclava

- Insulated gloves - “lobster-style” gloves may keep fingers warmer

- Skull cap that goes over your ears

- Neoprene shoe covers or even winter cycling shoes

- Wool socks or double up on regular pairs if needed

32-39°F / 0-4°C

For many, this range is the coldest they’ll consider venturing outdoors in, though many will have turned to indoor riding by then.

When the sun is out and there is no precipitation, this temperature range can actually feel quite refreshing - but only if you’ve got the right gear on.

Tops:

- Baselayer

- Thermal long-sleeve jersey

- Down-filled or insulated vest or jacket.

Bottoms:

- Thermal bib tights

Accessories:

- Thermal neckwarmer (Buff)

- Insulated gloves

- Skull cap that goes over your ears

- Neoprene shoe covers or even winter cycling shoes

- Wool socks

40-49°F / 5-10°C

Once you get moving on your ride in the 40-49°F (5-10°C) range, you might even break a sweat. But with sweat can come post-sweating chills, so warm clothes are still needed to stay comfortable as you cruise along in these brisk temperatures.

Tops:

- Baselayer

- Long-sleeve jersey (doesn’t need to be thermal)

- Wind- or rain-proof jacket

Bottoms:

- Thermal bib tights or insulated bib shorts with lined legwarmers

Accessories:

- Thinner neckwarmer (Buff) - merino wool is a good option

- Thinner, but still full-fingered gloves

- Headband or cap (optional)

- Neoprene shoe covers

- Thinner wool socks - again, merino wool is a good option

50-59°F / 10-15°C

After a long, cold winter, nothing feels quite as good as the first sunny day that cracks 50°F (10°C). While temperatures in the 50s can still carry a chill in the shade, these early springtime conditions offer a welcome opportunity to start peeling off the heavy thermal layers you’ve depended on all winter. It might even be time to let those pale arms and legs soak up some long-missed sunlight.

However, dressing for this temperature range can be tricky—sunny skies can feel pleasantly warm, but overcast conditions can quickly cool you down. The best strategy? Bring plenty of layers and shed them as needed!

Tops:

- Lightweight baselayer

- Non-thermal long-sleeve jersey

- Packable jacket or warm vest

Bottoms:

- Bib shorts with Leg warmers

- Or, non-insulated lycra-only bib tights like Ornot's Lightweight Tight or Velocio's Luxe Bib Tights

Accessories:

- Non-thermal neckwarmer or bandana (optional)

- Non-thermal full-fingered gloves

- Toe covers (optional)

60-65°F / 15-18°C

Spring has really sprung now! The 60-65°F ( 15-18°C) range is the first set of temperatures where you can truly feel “free” on the bike again, leaving your gloves, neck gaiters and toe covers at home.

But while this spring weather may feel pleasant in the sun and on the flats if you’re climbing and descending, be sure to pack a windproof vest to fend off the wee bit of chill that still remains at this temperature range.

Tops:

- Short-sleeve jersey with arm warmers (stash those when things warm up)

- Windproof vest or packable wind shell

Bottoms:

- Bib shorts

- Knee warmers (optional)

Accessories:

- Fingerless gloves (optional)

65-70°F / 18-21°C

The riding season is in full swing by the time the weather warms up to the 65-70°F ( 18-21°C) range. And breaking out the first short-sleeve jersey of the season is a great reward for slogging through all of that wet and cold weather.

You won’t need much other than a jersey and bibs at these temperatures, but it’s not a bad idea to bring a packable vest if you’re ascending to cooler temperatures or descending at rapid speeds.

Tops:

- Light baselayer (optional)

- Short-sleeve jersey

- Packable windproof vest

Bottoms:

- Bib shorts

Accessories:

- Fingerless cycling gloves

70-80°F / 21-26°C

This may just be the most comfortable temperature range for cycling comfort without excessive sweating or needing to bundle up.

While you'll be perfectly comfortable in just a short-sleeve jersey and bib shorts, a mesh base layer will help regulate your body temperature and manage moisture. As you sweat, a wicking baselayer pulls moisture away from your skin and moves it to the outer layers of the fabric, where it can evaporate more quickly. This keeps you dry, reducing the risk of feeling clammy or chilled, especially during descents or stops.

Tops:

- Mesh baselayer (for wicking)

- Short-sleeve jersey

Bottoms:

- Bib shorts

Accessories:

- Fingerless cycling gloves (optional)

85°F+ / 30°C+

When the summer weather really start heating up, you’ll want to think just as carefully about your apparel choices as you did back in the days of frigid temperatures.

Opting for an ultra-light kit will help to keep you cool(er), and if you’re particularly sensitive to the sun’s UV rays, you may want to choose a long-sleeve summer jersey to protect your arms from sun exposure. Remember to apply sunscreen!

Tops:

- Ultra-light jersey

- Summer sun protection arm sleeves or summer long-sleeve jersey (optional)

Bottoms:

- Ultra-light bib shorts

Accessories:

- Fingerless cycling gloves (optional)

“One of the most important days of my life was when I learned to ride a bicycle.” Not my words, dear reader, but those of Micheal Palin. And few people are better travelled than the co-founder of Monty Python’s Flying Circus.

We’re not suggesting you saddle up and cycle Full Circle, pedal Pole to Pole or ride around the world in 80 days. But, with bikepacking becoming ever more popular, and winter the perfect time to prepare for next summer's adventures, we do want to get you in the best possible shape for the two-wheeled tour of your choosing.

So, we reached out cycling coach, Jon Sharples, for his advice, as well as asking coach and rider Jasmijn Muller for her top tips.

Training for the tour

Start training at least eight weeks before your departure and look to train on the terrain you’re going to be touring on. Include rides of two to four hours every week. Hills are inevitable, so it’s a savvy move to include some VO2 max intervals to raise the ceiling on your fitness. You should also supplement your training with some low-cadence strength sessions where you’re turning the pedals at 65rpm or slower. This can be done at Zone 2 and can be broken into five, 10 or 15-minute intervals. The added torque bolsters not only aerobic fitness but adds extra muscle-fibre to better equip you for the tour’s undulations. It is equally important not to neglect strength training in the gym or at home: regularly do squats and lunges to improve posture and power on the bike. Lastly, stretching or yoga will help you avoid injuries and keep your muscles limber for long days in the saddle.

Essential equipment

Getting a proper bike-fit can minimise the chance of trip-jeopardising pains. Decent bibshorts (see our guides on the best bibshorts for men and the best bibshorts for women) will keep your hindquarters happy; and comfortable cycling shoes with no hot spots are essential

Fuel your tour

Enjoy real food but carry a gel or two for emergencies. Take two bottles, and obey your thirst to stay hydrated.

Mapping your route

Use cycling apps such as Komoot or RideWithGPS to design scenic, bike-friendly routes, and be mindful of elevation gain. Avoid busy roads where possible, and plan for daily rest stops. If possible, download maps for offline use. With the right level of planning, you’ll be well-prepared to enjoy your bikepacking or touring trip to the fullest

Do less of this...

• Max effort: Reduce the frequency of Z6 and sprint sessions in the lead-up to your excursion. While they are a vital part of most riders’ training schedules, max efforts aren’t necessary for successful bikepacking day after day.
• Discomfort dismissing: Don’t neglect your pressure points. Thoroughly test your shoes and bibshorts beforehand and remember that a poor choice of saddle or bars could introduce tour-ending niggles over long distances
• Sweet synthetics: Boring chews and energy gels can take something of a backseat for this sort of riding. You’re on tour, so schedule stops for elevenses, lunch and afternoon tea. And remember: don’t rush, you’re on holiday!
• Data fixation: Head units are for displaying maps for navigation purposes or for tracking your mileage. Ignore your speed, power, heart rate or any other metric you normally keep tabs on. This is not a race. Have fun!

Do less of this...

• Long endurance rides: Long rides are a great way to condition your body to long miles in the saddle and build a big aerobic base. For this reason, it’s important to factor in one big ride a week to prime yourself for the demands of your tour
• Strength training: Resistance work will help to toughen your core, making you more stable on the bike and less susceptible to injury. Squats and bodyweight exercises can be done either at home or in the gym.
• Terrain specific riding: Training on the terrain you’re planning to ride on will help you build the specific skills you will need, while making sure your bike is correctly spec’d and geared for the tour you’ve planned.
• Route prep: Use ‘street view’ on Google maps as a tool to recce roads so that already have a good idea of what to expect before arriving. While you are out on the open road, be wary that off-grid locations don’t enjoy 4G coverage

Jasmijn Muller's top tips

How should an amateur ensure they are fit enough for a multi-day cycling bikepacking trip? I suggest preparing for an average day of your trip, whether it’s 60km or longer. Start by comfortably riding the expected daily distance, then simulate the multi-day experience by riding back-to-back days on weekends. For trips of over three days, take advantage of longer holidays such as Easter for consecutive rides, balancing overload and recovery. It’s not just physical strength but managing nutrition, contact points – hands, feet, seat – and sleep deprivation that matters.

Where do bikepacking cyclists most commonly go wrong? Training should mimic daily mileage and repetitive train. The shock comes from riding after a night’s sleep with lingering muscle fatigue. Practise early starts or shorter sleep cycles to simulate this. Also, I recommend working with a professional bike-fitter to map saddle pressure points, which can prevent saddle sores. Strength training helps prevent back pain, and stretching tight quads and hip flexors while strengthening glutes and hamstrings helps improve posture and balance muscle groups

How can riders prevent injury problems on long rides? Regularly check your posture during rides – elongate the back and bend from the hips rather than hunching over. This improves power and reduces discomfort in the back, neck and hips. Vary hand positions every hour to avoid nerve compression and stand occasionally to relieve saddle pressure. Stretch during stops.

How can riders prevent saddle sores? This is a topic that I could devote hours to discussing. But a few key moves to reduce the risk of saddle sores include ensuring you have a properly set up bike, including wider tyres inflated to the correct pressure. Crucially, keep your skin clean and dry, especially in wet conditions. I’ve found that trimming rather than shaving pubic hair reduces the risk of infections, and using rainproof gear or mudguards can prevent chafing.

How to fuel for long days in the saddle? For breakfast, I always stick to real food. Examples include Greek yogurt with honey, fruits like bananas, and sometimes a boiled egg for extra protein. The focus is on building a solid carb base for sustained energy throughout the day. During long rides, I will opt for quick-digesting, low-fibre foods such as white bread.

I limit my carb intake to 50g per hour, adjusting to 60g when riding at higher intensities. Excessive fructose causes bloating, so I avoid it. My food choices include bars from my sponsor Rawvelo or homemade rice bars. I avoid fatty foods. To add interest, I always include both sweet and savoury options. As a non-chewy option, I add some softer energy pouches from Supernaturalfuel (my other sponsor).

Any hydration tips? For hydration, I prefer a hypotonic drink mix with 15g of carbs per 500ml, mostly electrolytes. Isotonic drinks have more carbs but aren’t as efficient for hydration. I generally drink to thirst, but or older athletes or during intense races, I recommend drinking according to a plan. I have a high sweat rate, so I adjust my sodium intake with salt capsules (1,000mg per dose) or high-sodium food during long races. For less intense rides, I stick with a standard hypotonic mix.

Running the optimum pressure for the best gravel tyres can really unlock their full potential. Get the number right, and you’ll be rewarded with improved comfort, speed and grip. But how do you know the correct pressure for you?

Of course, you can simply look at the recommended range on the sidewall of the tyre. But if you’re looking for improved performance on the gravel, it’s worth digging into the details.

There are several contributing factors to consider here; the tire’s construction, internal rim width, whether you’re using inner tubes or going tubeless, rider weight and the terrain you’re riding all contribute to the equation.

Why pressure matters

The ideal tyre pressure should lower your rolling resistance while optimizing comfort. There’s a balance to be struck here of course, but given that gravel surfaces tend to be, by their very nature, uneven, lowering your tyre pressure can serve both purposes.

In simple terms, you want to allow the tyres to deform as they roll over the bumpy terrain. This helps to negate the energy lost as you and your bike move upwards as well as forwards. It’s in contrast to a smooth road surface where higher pressures result in a lower coefficient of rolling resistance. So running lower pressures on gravel can actually make you faster as well as more comfortable.

But what factors are in play when it comes to finding your ideal tyre pressure for gravel?

Tyre width

The width of your tyre is the first consideration. Because ‘gravel’ is such a loose term (pun intended) tyre widths can range considerably. A fast rolling tyre designed for gravel racing might be 32, 35 or 38mm in width, whereas a voluminous tyre for off-grid bikepacking could measure 45mm, 50mm or more in width. The rule of thumb here is that the wider the tyre, the lower the pressure.

You’ll also want to figure in the internal width measurement of your wheel’s rim. Modern gravel or all-road wheels now have rim widths designed to accommodate wider, tubeless tyres. If you’re fitting a gravel tyre that’s on the narrower side to a rim that has a generous internal width, the tyre will end up measuring wider than the number printed on the sidewall.

Conversely, if you fit a wider gravel tyre to a rim with a narrower internal width, the tyre can end up looking like a mushroom. Not only does it look a little silly, it can have a negative impact on both pinch flats (more on those later) and aerodynamics.

So in general it’s wise to try and ensure that your tyres and your rims are a good match, especially if you’re running the hookless variety.

A quick word on hookless rims

Hookless rims are just that. They eschew the conventional hooks in an effort to create a more aerodynamically enhanced transition from tyre to rim. They’re also said to deliver improved support at lower pressures as the tyre’s sidewalls sit further apart. They’ve become increasingly prevalent as the ‘wider and lower’ trend gained momentum; Zipp, Enve, Hunt and more all now produce hookless rims.

Zipp’s latest 303 XPLR hoops are the quintessential modern hookless gravel wheel, with a 32mm internal rim width, designed around a dedicated 40mm wide tyre.

It’s worth noting that in response to some reported issues with tyres coming off hookless rims, ISO and ETRTO issued a recommended maximum tyre pressure of 72 psi. The two bodies also state that, when used with hookless rims, a tyre cannot deviate more than 2mm from its labelled size. This perhaps has more relevance for road cyclists than gravel. On the road, a desire to run 28mm width tyres on hookless rims with a say a 25mm internal width is a likely occurrence, hence the advice referenced above.

Tubeless tyres

It’s a fair assumption that a large percentage of gravel riders will be using tubeless set-ups. Here the traditional inner tube is removed, replaced only by some sealant and specific tubeless rim tape and valves. You’ll need tubeless-ready rims and compatible tyres, which enable the tyre to seat and form an airtight seal with the rim.

However, our experience tells us that tubeless set-ups do tend to lose pressure at a faster rate than those using inner tubes. With this in mind we’d suggest checking your pressures before each ride if you don’t do this already. Choose one of the best mini pumps to help with accuracy.

Tyre inserts

While tubeless technology is designed to eliminate punctures, the demands of gravel riding can still cause a version of pinch flats.

Here the combination of low tyre pressures and a considerable impact can cause damage to both the tyre and the rim. Inserts, essentially foam liners that sit inside a tubeless tyre, are designed to add protection. Manufacturers also claim that inserts can improve rider comfort.

A starting point

Once you’ve considered your tyre and rim, as well as how your tyres are set up, you’ll next want to account for your weight, riding style and terrain.

While there’s no exact formula here, many wheel and tyre manufacturers' websites have comprehensive tyre pressure calculation charts or interactive apps to assist you. As a general rule heavier riders will need a little more pressure, while lighter riders will typically benefit from lower pressures. You should also factor in the weight of your bike here - a steel bikepacking rig loaded with bags is considerably heavier than a stripped-down carbon gravel race bike.

Figure in the ‘road’ ahead, too. Rough gravel trails will likely be better navigated with lower pressures and wider tyres, while hard-packed flint, tackled in a gravel race can be approached with narrower tyres run at slightly higher pressures. But ultimately there’s plenty of room for experimenting here. Our advice would be to use the manufacturers' charts as a starting point. From here you can begin to adjust your pressures accordingly based on the feedback from your ride.

As an example, the aforementioned Zipp 303 XPLR wheels have a maximum recommended pressure of 51 PSI (3.5 bar) if you’re running tyres in the 40-44mm range, but this drops considerably to just 36 PSI (2.5 bar) if you’re using super wide tyres, over 50mm.

When our North American Editor reviewed the wheels, Zipp’s online tool, which figures in rider and bike weight proved interesting; it recommended just 25 PSI (1.76 bar) on the front and 27 PSI (1.87 bar) at the rear, which is lower than she ran when completing two editions of the Unbound gravel race.

Grand Tours and multi-day stage races are among the most physically demanding sporting events in the world. Riders push their bodies to the absolute limit, racing day after day across vast distances, burning thousands of calories in the process. To keep performing at their peak, these athletes follow a meticulously planned diet before, during and after each stage.

But their strategies aren't just for professionals—many of their nutrition habits can be adapted for anyone looking to optimize performance, whether you're a weekend warrior, an amateur racer or simply health-conscious.

We caught up with Kieran Creevy, the performance chef for the EF Pro Cycling men’s and women’s teams, to find out how he fuels these elite riders at a Grand Tour — and how you can apply some of their nutrition strategies to your own routine.

A day in the life of a performance chef

EF Pro Cycling's approach to fueling its athletes is highly structured. The program currently employs several travelling chefs and two nutritionists and will add two more nutrition experts in the coming year.

“Margins for performance gain in equipment are so small these days, so they’re looking to nutrition to make additional gains,” Creevy explains.

While some teams entrust the race hotels with their daily meals, most top-end teams, like EF Pro Cycling's men's and women's teams, travel with their own chefs and a mobile kitchen to have complete control over what goes into the riders' bodies.

Creevy and the other chefs will create the team’s menu a week to ten days in advance, in coordination with the nutritionists.

“I put it in an Excel spreadsheet and [the nutritionist] will look at it and make adjustments where needed like adding fats here or cutting fibre there,” Creevy said.

This means that when the race gets underway, the chef knows exactly what's on the schedule for each day, whether it's an eight-stage Tour de France Femmes or three-week-long Vuelta a España.

In addition to focusing heavily on macronutrients, the chef also needs to prepare meals in bulk. The caloric demands of a Grand Tour rider are immense. Creevy shared that on a typical race day, including breakfast, ride food, post-race recovery meals and dinner, riders consume around 4,000 - 5,000 calories. But on mountain stages, where the intensity is ramped up, that number can rise to 5,500 to 6,000 calories for women riders and up to 8,000 for male riders.

“That is quite a lot of food to take on. And bear in mind that some of the small riders, especially the women, are like 55 kilos or even less, so to try and take on that amount—it's pretty tough,” said Creevy.

In addition to the sheer quantity of food, Creevy shared that the biggest challenge riders face is the monotony of food.

“Riders on a long tour just get bored with the food,” Creevy said. “So instead of rice, rice, rice every day, we’ll trade out pureed potatoes or quinoa to give them options."

We caught up with Creevy at his mobile kitchen 7 a.m., at which time food prep was already in full swing.

Post-race smoothies whirred in the blender, chicken breasts browned in the oven, overnight oats chilled in the fridge, and Creevy was whipping up pancake batter as we spoke.

Creevy spends the early hours of the day prepping breakfast so a full spread of items awaits the riders as they come down to the hotel's dining room for breakfast. He'll also make omelettes or eggs for the riders who want them, one by one.

The morning prep also includes preparing on-the-bike foods like rice cakes, and post-race fuel, which is transported and dished up by the bus driver and soigneurs at the day's finish line. This may include smoothies for immediately after the race and a race-and-protein meal to be eaten on the bus during the transfer.

After all the riders have finished their breakfast, it's time to clean up, load up and transfer to that evening's hotel, where dinner prep commences. If he's lucky, there may be a small amount of downtime to watch the end of the race or get some exercise in.

Dinner will again be served buffet-style. That particular evening the menu consisted of a tomato sauce, spaghetti Aglio e Olio (no cheese!), grilled chicken, roasted zucchini and a fruit salad.

By the time clean-up is done, it will be quite late, so it's off to bed and getting ready to do it again the next day.

One day of meals

Breakfast:

The day typically begins with a carbohydrate-rich breakfast. Riders fuel up with overnight oats, pancakes, rice and/or rice pudding or rice cakes, and fresh berries. Eggs are also served, though riders limit their intake to avoid excess protein or fat.

On the bike:

While on the bike, riders consume energy gels, bars and carbohydrate drinks to maintain energy levels. The EF Pro Cycling teams are sponsored by Dutch nutrition company Amacx, which provides the team with an extensive range of on-the-bike products, allowing riders to consume as much as 90-120 grams of carbohydrates an hour.

Creevy also ensures riders have natural snacks like rice cakes. These are easy to digest, ensuring riders maintain peak performance throughout the stage.

Post-race refuelling:

After the race, recovery begins immediately. Riders take in a protein recovery drink or smoothie, which Creevy makes with very ripe fruits. “When fruit goes super ripe, the sugar content goes higher. It may not look nice, but it's totally edible. And the carbohydrate content is higher, which makes it actually better,” he said.

Within 30-40 minutes after finishing the stage, the riders also receive a simple meal of rice and lean protein to start replenishing glycogen stores.

Dinner:

Dinner is a well-balanced meal designed to refuel and repair the body. Creevy typically prepares two sources of carbohydrates, like pasta and rice, paired with a lean protein such as chicken or turkey, and roasted vegetables. There's also usually a salad or two.

Dessert:

Dessert is simple, like a fruit salad or apple cake — high in carbs, low in fats.

Carbs, Fibre and Fats

Cooking for the athletes is focused primarily on a macronutrient balance, which the team tracks using the Chromatic app, where the nutritionists and chefs also share and manage the teams' recipes. Without diving into the nitty gritty of each macronutrient, Creevy shared some of the basic guidelines:

Limiting Fiber:
Fibre intake is kept to a minimum for hard efforts because it can be difficult to process while riding at high intensity. According to Creevy, too much fibre can lead to gastrointestinal discomfort, and riders may have to “pull off to the side of the road, which isn't ideal.” Remember Tom Dumoulin's bathroom disaster during the 2017 Giro d'Italia? Yeah...

"Additionally, if you have extra fibre in your gut, it retains more water, so you hang on to water, rather than actually being hydrated quite as much. It also makes you a little bit heavier and a bit more bloated," Creevy explained.

On mountain stages, Creevy will even "strip the skin from cucumbers and stuff like that" to minimise fibre intake.

“On those days, [the riders] will pretty much just have white rice, plain pasta, pancakes, maybe some berries, and that's it. It’s quite restrictive,” Creevy shared.

Easy-to-digest Carbohydrates:
Carbohydrates are the foundation of a cyclist’s diet because they provide the quickest source of energy.

“Your body needs more time to process fat or protein and convert it into sugars, whereas carbohydrate is really, really rapid," Creevy explained. "All the carbs the riders consume are easy to process."

This means a lot of plain rice, plain pasta, oats and pancakes.

Limiting Fats:
Riders also limit their fat intake, especially while racing.

While fats are beneficial for lower-intensity exercise, they do more harm than good in high-intensity racing.

“In zone 4-5, it’s really hard for your body to start processing fats, so it just sits there in the stomach doing nothing,” Creevy explained.

As a result, riders rely on lean proteins like chicken instead of beef or pork, which contain more fat. On recovery days or the evening leading into a rest day, Creevy will add in salmon, which is rich in protein and healthy fats like omega 3.

Recipes

Creevy was kind enough to share two EF staples with our Cycling Weekly readers: the EF American Pancakes and EF Peruvian Chicken Thighs.

EF Education American Pancakes

Ingredients:

• 400 grams Tesco organic plain flour
• 3 tsp (13.8g) baking powder
• 2 tbsp (42.4g) honey
• 6 medium eggs
• 400 grams Alpro rice milk
• Creevy's personal touch: some lemon zest and a bit of lemon juice to change it up

Nutrition Facts

A serving size of 100 grams contains:

• 196 kcal
• 7.2g of protein
• 33.2g of net carbs
• 3.5g of fat

Method:

• Combine dry ingredients together in a big bowl
• Make a well, then add the wet ingredients. Stir to combine.
• Scoop the batter onto a hot griddle or pan.
• Cook for two to three minutes, then flip.
• Cook until brown on both sides.

EF Peruvian Chicken Thighs (to be served with rice and vegetables)

Ingredients:

• 1600 grams of chicken thighs, skin removed
• 10g low sodium soy sauce
• 1/4 cup (60g) fresh lime juice
• 4 tbsp (8g) of cumin powder
• 2 tsp (4.5g) of paprika powder
• 1 tsp (1g) of dried oregano leaves
• 1 tsp (2.3g) of ground black pepper

Nutritional Facts

A serving size of one chicken thigh (about 100 grams) contains:

• 180 kcal
• 26.1 grams of protein
• 0.6 grams of net carbs
• 7.4 grams of fat

Method

• Preheat your oven to 425°F (220°C)
• In a bowl, mix together the herbs, spices and liquids to make a marinade.
• Coat the chicken with the spice mixture on all sides. Let marinate for an hour.
• Place the chicken thighs on a rack on top of a baking sheet (to catch any drippings).
• Cook until the internal temperature reaches 165°F (74°C) — depending on the size of the chicken thighs, this will take about 25-30 minutes, but start checking around 20 minutes in.
• Creevy's pro tip: The meat will continue to cook for a few minutes as it rests on the counter, so take the chicken out of the oven the moment the internal temperature is reached and let rest for 10 minutes before serving.
• Serve with rice and roasted vegetables or a salad.

More EF recipes:

• Healthy banana sourdough pancakes
• Lemon chia overnight oats
• Magnus Cort’s favourite cinnamon buns
• On-the-bike rice cakes
• Banana bread

Bicycle geometry is a complex subject. Like applied mathematics, it involves numbers and angles, but unlike that discipline, there isn’t always one single answer. Sometimes, there’s room for interpretation. Specific outcomes can often be achieved in multiple ways, and different philosophies prioritise different aspects of geometry design. No one angle or number can definitively describe a bicycle’s characteristics—it is the sum of the parts that determine how a bike rides.

A geometry sheet contains a bafflingly wide variety of information, which can seem daunting. How exactly do the numbers on the page translate to the bike you’re riding around on? Plenty of riders have no interest in this level of granular detail, and that’s fine. It’s not necessary to be literate in minutiae to enjoy pedalling a bike. But these measurements don’t have to be a mystery either.

I’m not going to delve into the entirety of bike geometry here, but I’m going to look at how the front end (the part of the bicycle that does the steering) works a bit. The key takeaways here are that small changes can have big effects, and nothing can be examined in isolation: it’s all connected.

What is the head tube angle?

How a bike handles is largely decided by how the frame works in concert with the design of the fork. The first piece of this is the head tube angle. Head tube angle is best envisioned as an imaginary line that runs through the centre of the head tube, in profile. This is the position around which the fork’s steerer tube rotates and is known as the steering axis. Generally speaking, a steeper angle (closer to 90 degrees or vertical) will feel more responsive but twitchier, while a slacker angle will be more stable at lower speeds but feel correspondingly sluggish in its reactions to inputs.

What is bike frames fork offset (or rake) and trail?

The next piece of the puzzle is called fork offset. Fork offset, also known as rake, is the amount in which the fork is offset from the steering axis. In other words, how far the axle sits in front of the imaginary head tube line.

With these two elements, in addition to wheel and tyre size, you can determine a bicycle’s trail figure. This is the distance between the centerline of the steering axis and the centre of where the tire hits the ground. A racier, performance bike will typically have less trail than a more endurance-oriented design. Road bikes usually stay within a pretty tight range, but gravel bikes are available from road-esque trail figures all the way to full-on mountain bike numbers. Obviously, bikes at either end of this spectrum feel very different when ridden and arguably shouldn’t even be considered part of the same category.

The confusing thing about all of this is that two bikes can have the same trail number but handle very differently by using different head angles and fork offsets. These variables can be manipulated for different outcomes, such as reducing toe overlap or optimising handling for different tire sizes. Each approach changes how the bike steers and the rider’s weight distribution over the front wheel. Bike designers need to account for all of these factors, as changing one aspect will have an impact on the others.

Do tyres affect how my bike handles?

Trail isn’t the only thing to think about when talking about how a bike handles either; it is also affected by tyre size too, through what’s called pneumatic trail. Put simply, a larger tyre will make more contact with the ground, which means it takes more effort to make it turn. Wider tyres, especially at lower pressures, will make a bike feel more stable while riding, and thus trail figures on these bikes are often adjusted to compensate.

If you wish to change the handling characteristics of your bicycle, changing your tyre size is a good place to start. Narrower tyres will make it feel more skittish, while wider tyres will slow things down.

What about stem length and handlebar width?

Yet another part of this discussion is the impact of stem length and handlebar width, which also have an impact on handling. Longer stems slow down handling, since movements equate to a smaller amount of the fork turning; ditto for wider bars. There are additional parts of bicycle geometry to consider, such as bottom bracket height, but for the purposes of our discussion, I’ll leave things here. As you can see, there’s plenty to think about.

The front end of a bicycle has a lot going on. In broad terms, the interplay of fork rake, trail and head tube angle determine a bike’s overall geometry and handling characteristics. A bike designed for high-speed stability will typically have a slacker head tube angle, longer trail, and more fork rake, whereas a bike designed for quick handling and agility might have a steeper head tube angle, shorter trail, and less fork rake. Understanding these elements can help you to find a bike that works best for you and where you ride. There isn’t a right or wrong (usually), but there are an awful lot of possibilities.

To learn more about bike geometry, see our guide here. And, if you, like me, appreciate visuals as part of this conversation, there’s quite a good video here. The trail and fork rake section conversation starts around 5:50.

Happy trails!

Leading a group ride is one of the best ways you can give back to the cycling community. Group rides are an accessible, fun and often challenging (in a good way) entry point for newer cyclists looking to advance their skills, fitness or community ties. 

While the physical act of leading a ride isn’t hard, planning and executing a ride that people will want to come back to takes deliberate work and intentionality. As the Co-Founder and Executive Director of All Bodies on Bikes, a group that prides itself on inclusive, social rides, I spend a lot of time thinking about group ride dynamics. After leading hundreds of group rides myself, and now training others on how to successfully lead group rides, I’ve learned a few things about how to lead a ride that people will actually want to come back to. 

I’ve had my fair share of disastrous group rides - getting dropped on supposed “no-drop” rides, being led through dangerous intersections in an unsafe way, and encountering unwelcoming behavior from other riders. I know that if this is happening to me, it’s a widespread issue.

In the spirit of community, I’ve put together my best advice for leading a ride that people will want to come back to. Please note that these techniques are applicable regardless of the type of ride you’re leading, the pace you’re going, or where you’re riding.

Develop and Publicise an Appropriate Ride - Before the Ride 

When developing the route for your group ride, be sure to take into consideration the goals of your ride. Is it a social ride? A fitness ride? A training ride for a specific event? Use these variables to plan how long, fast or hilly your ride will be. Be sure to take into account the elevation gain and type of terrain you’ll be riding on. 

Elevation is a tricky one to navigate, as everyone climbs at different paces, however, my best advice is to limit climbing on social rides, and to absolutely regroup at the top. Don’t forget to give the folks at the back of the ride plenty of time to rest before restarting the ride. 

For more spirited or training rides, climbing can be a fun way to spice things up, but be sure to regroup when appropriate. Even if there are no significant climbs, be sure to include regrouping points where the group can safely re-form, as often rides get split by traffic lights, trains, or mechanicals. Finally, on longer rides (upwards of 10 miles), I like to include opportunities to refill bottles, eat a snack, or use the restroom.

I always recommend publicising your route using Ride With GPS, my preferred route making tool.* With the software's custom queues, points of interest and sharing functions, you can give potential attendees a wealth of information. 

 Publicise your intended pace - and stick to it 

While I love social paced group rides, there is a time, place, and audience for fast group rides. The key is to make it clear what pace your ride will be going and stick to that. Your ride leaders should have a bike computer and do their best to stick to the advertised pace (with consideration of hills.) 

I also highly recommend creating a culture where the ride leaders are the ones setting the pace —no one should be in front of the ride leader or trying to push the pace. This can be established at the beginning of the ride, when the group leader is explaining expectations. A simple “Marley is leading the ride, please don’t go in front of her. We’ll be riding at 15mph average, faster on the downhill, slower on the uphill. Please respect the pace Marley sets.”

And please, for the love of all things bikes, stop using “party pace”, “comfortable pace” or “conversational pace” without also elaborating on what this actually means. Put a number on it!

 Create a Welcoming Environment 

Regardless of the type of ride, folks are joining for the social aspect. As the leader, you have a role in creating that social, welcoming environment. Say hi when people show up. Introduce yourself. Encourage conversation between riders and welcome new riders by facilitating introductions. 

As the leader, you get to set the vibe for the entire ride, so the more welcoming you are, the more relaxed and friendly other riders will also be. I also highly recommend a pre-ride talk just before departing, where the rider leaders, sweeps, and other leadership introduce themselves, go over the route, and any expectations for the ride.

Bonus Points - Cultivate a Social Environment Before/After the Ride 

Again, many people join group rides for the social aspect of cycling. Making space for additional social time either before or after the ride will help to develop a healthy group ride dynamic that is welcoming and encourages people to come back. There are a million ways to do this, including ending at a local brewery or coffee shop for some refreshments. It doesn’t have to be complicated, but a little effort to encourage communication connections will go a long way. 

*Disclosure: Marley Blonsky is a Ride With GPS ambassador. 

More columns by Marley Blonsky

• I’m a fat cyclist and here’s how I made peace with climbing
• I know how it feels to finish 'dead last' - here are my tips for completing your first gravel race
• I’m a fat cyclist; these are the top 3 misconceptions people have about bigger riders and why they’re wrong
• Lip service isn't good enough: here's what needs to change for cycling events to actually be inclusive

Washing an electric bike might seem like a daunting task. With its high powered battery and motor, along with cables and display, there are plenty of sensitive electrical components in an e-bike and, as we know, electricity and water don’t mix well. 

But bicycles are naturally prone to get grubby and, as with any bike, you’ll want to keep your electric bike clean to keep it looking and performing at its best, which means you’ll need to wash it regularly, particularly if you’re riding in wet weather.

Electric bikes are designed to cope with wet conditions though and, in general, electric and electronic parts are well sealed against the elements. So treat your electric bike with respect and there’s no reason why washing it should be any more arduous than cleaning a normal bike.

Here’s how to wash your electric bike and particular points to pay attention to.

1. Don’t use a pressure washer

Let’s start off with how not to wash your electric bike. Pressure washers are bad for bikes in general unless used with great care. A standard pressure washer has enough force for water to penetrate bearings and seals, leading to damage and premature wear. 

This is doubly a problem when washing an electric bike, as you can also push cleaning water into the electric and electronic components, potentially leading to corrosion and damage.

You can buy lower pressure washers designed for bikes, like the Muc-Off pressure washer, but even so it’s a good idea to use a pressure washer from a distance and not to point it at your electric bike’s bearings, seals for parts like a removable battery or any cables or controls.

Rather than a pressure washer, a garden hose or a plain old bucket and brush are better options.

2. Turn off the power

Before you get started, turn the e-bike’s system off. It’s back to that water and electricity thing. 

Bosch recommends removing or covering its controllers with a cloth or plastic and also taking out the battery before starting, while other e-bike brands state that your e-bike systems are sealed well enough to cope with a wash. Liv says clean your bike with the battery in place, then remove and dry it once the bike is clean.

If you have a work stand, this makes it easier to get at the parts of your electric bike that tend to get most dirty like the underside of the down tube. Don’t turn your electric bike upside down.

3. Wash off loose dirt

First, you want to wash off any loose surface dirt. A hose, again without too much pressure, should be fine for this, although a soft brush and water may be more effective.

It’s worth having a range of brushes for different parts of your bike, making sure that you don’t use greasy brushes on your frame or brake rotors. Don’t use frame cleaning brushes on your drivetrain either, so that they stay lube-free

4. Use a bike cleaner

Your e-bike is now ready for a deeper clean, for which you should use a specialist bike cleaning product. Some brands suggest that washing up liquid is fine, although as when cleaning any bike we’d counsel against this, due to the harsher chemicals included. 

We’ve got a guide to the best bike cleaning kits and recommendations for the best bike cleaning products in our guide to how to clean your bike if you want some suggestions of products to use.

Instructions for bike cleaners usually say spray on, leave for a period, then wash off with clean water. Your bike cleaner should remove the majority of the more persistent grime. Use a brush to remove dirt from places such as behind the bottom bracket that can be hard to get to. 

5. Clean your drivetrain

You should now clean your drivetrain, using a degreaser. Again, this should be standard practice for any bike. But with an electric bike with a mid-mounted motor it’s particularly important as there’s a lot more force transmitted through the chain and gears, which can increase wear.

Removing the abrasive paste that can develop on a chain and gears is a sure-fire way to prolong their life.

Keep the degreaser away from your brakes and braking surfaces, whether your electric bike has disc brakes or rim brakes. If your brakes do need a clean, there are specialist products designed for this.

6. Dry everything off

Now wipe your electric bike down with a soft towel to remove as much water as possible or even use a blower to dry it off. Bumping it up and down on its tyres can shake off a lot of water. 

Wipe the chain down, then apply a new layer of specialist bike chain lube to stop it rusting. Wipe off any excess lube, as this can attract dirt.

If you want, you can now use a bike protection spray to help keep your frame cleaner. This will lower your workload next time you need to clean your e-bike, and also help to keep water out of electrical contacts.

Make sure the bike is completely dry before replacing the battery and controller.

7. Keep the electrical contacts clean

We’ve mentioned corrosion of electric parts as a particular issue to avoid when riding an electric bike. There are specialist electric bike contact cleaners and water repellent sprays available, but a general-purpose water displacing spray like GT85 is also effective.  

How often should I wash my electric bike? 

The trite answer is, whenever it’s dirty. Several brands recommend a quick rinse down after every ride, which can save you money in the long-run, although this might not always be practicable. 

You certainly need to wash it down and relube everything after a wet ride, not least because many bike lubes are easily washed off and rust can quickly set in on your chain and non-electric components. 

In winter, salt from the road is corrosive. The same is true if you ride near or in the sea, so you need to rinse it off your e-bike as soon as possible.

There’s a spread of weight for electric bikes, with some city hybrids and mountain bikes, in particular, being pretty weighty, with bike weights over 20kg being common.

Electric road bikes are on the other end of the weight spectrum, with the weight of many close to 10kg. We weighed the Ribble Endurance SL e at 12kg in a size XL when we reviewed it, for example, and there are plenty of competitors with similar claimed weights, including the Orbea Gain, Trek Domane+ SLR and Wilier Filante Hybrid.

These electric bikes are powered by motors and batteries with low weights. The Mahle ebikemotion x20 has a claimed system weight of 3.3kg, while the TQ-HPR 50 has a claimed 3.65kg weight.

Both are very compact too. The Mahle motor sits in the rear hub and is smaller than the largest ring on most cassettes, while the TQ motor fits in the bottom bracket and has a Q-Factor that’s the same as a standard road bike crankset. 

Both systems use an internal battery which is housed in the downtube which, although a little chunkier than that on many standard bikes doesn’t look disproportionately outsized.

To achieve such low weights, the above electric bikes have a carbon frame and are fitted out with top spec components. Along with the cost of the motor system, that makes them quite expensive, although not out of line with premium end of the best road bikes.

Most electric road bikes can be had in lower specs too, which reduce the price although they do add some weight. They’re typically built on the same frame and motor system though, so it’s only groupsets, wheels and other components that add weight.

So why would you want to choose an electric bike with low weight? Here are a few reasons.

Ride feel 

All the e-bikes mentioned above are based on the respective brands’ analog bikes. Many lightweight electric bikes share the geometry of the non-assisted bikes. That means that you’ll get a similar ride feel. 

With the low weight of the motor and battery, which are housed low down in the frame, stability and handling are unlikely to be compromised either. So railing corners and speedy descents are still possible, when you’d be more cautious on a heavier e-bike where you might lose some of the sharpness of a performance road bike.

E-bikes are typically fitted with slightly wider tyres than non-electric bikes, offering greater traction and grip. Manufacturers such as Schwalbe are increasingly flagging their tires as e-bike ready and you can also buy a small number of tires specifically designed for the higher mass and power output of an electric bike over a pedal-powered machine.

You aren’t limited in available assistance with a lightweight e-bike either. While some systems such as the Specialized SL 1.1 and the original Mahle X35 have relatively low torque outputs, many including the TQ-HPR50 and the newer Mahle X20 output 50Nm or more, comparable to many heavier systems and all deliver around 250 watts of power.

Range 

It takes less power output to accelerate a lighter bike and less to get it up a hill. On the flat, many riders will be able to keep up a speed close to or above the 25kph at which, in much of the world, the motor has to cut out. 

A lot of the weight of an e-bike system is in its battery. So, while lightweight electric bikes typically have lighter, lower capacity batteries than full-fat e-bikes, many riders may find that their range is not significantly lower. 

Many systems allow you to fit an external range extender to your electric bike. This will add some weight and usually means that you can only carry one water bottle. But it will typically add around 50 percent to the bike’s range, allowing you to cover more ground when you want to, but remove it and carry two bottles on shorter rides.

E-bikes can be ridden non-assisted, which will also add range, and the motor adds little or no drag to the drivetrain when not in use. On the flat, a lightweight e-bike isn’t going to feel unduly harder to ride with the motor turned off, so you can save the battery capacity for when you need help for climbs.

Even if your battery were to give out before you reached home, the low weight of a lightweight electric bike isn’t going to cause it to feel a chore to ride, when compared to a pedal-only bike.

Easy to move around off-bike 

If you have to lift your e-bike up steps, over obstacles or onto public transport or a car bike rack, you’ll appreciate the low weight of a lightweight electric bike. An e-bike that weighs around 12kg will be much easier to maneuver and carry than one that weighs 20kg. 

Keep in the zone 

A lightweight e-bike is a great option for recovery rides. Zone 2 riding is a big deal right now, practiced not least by Tadej Pogačar. Unless you live somewhere pan-flat with no wind or use a turbo trainer for recovery, it’s difficult to keep to Zone 2, as any hills will almost certainly raise your heart rate above the threshold. There’s the temptation to ride a little bit faster on the flat as well, as Zone 2 can feel pretty pedestrian.

A lightweight e-bike will help you to get outdoors and ride while keeping your ride more within Zone 2 but not leaving you feeling as if you’re pootling along. Just increase the assistance to tackle any hills and reduce your effort level.

For some riders, keeping their heart rate lower may be vital, with a risk to their health from pushing themselves too hard. Ex-pro Sean Yates, who wore the Tour de France yellow jersey when he was racing, is a famous example. A heart condition means that he was advised to avoid vigorous exercise. But by riding the Ribble Endurance SL e, he has been able to take to the bike again, with the motor providing the support he needs to keep his heart rate at a safe level.

The Mahle ebikemotion system fitted to his Ribble e-bike helps, as it can be linked to a heart rate monitor. Using the Mahle app, you can specify a threshold heart rate at which the motor will increase its assistance to lower your effort level and keep your heart rate in check.

Stealth looks 

Let’s face it, it’s nice not to look as if you’re using a little helper on your rides. There’s always something satisfying about passing another rider struggling on a hill, but it’s less enjoyable if it’s obvious that you’re riding an e-bike. 

With their stealth looks, many lightweight e-bikes would pass for a standard road bike. Their control systems are typically lower profile too. A button or panel integrated into the e-bike’s top tube is a popular solution, while some lightweight e-bikes such as the Trek Domane+ SLR and Orbea Gain have satellite shifter-style buttons, allowing you to change assistance level from the bars.

Orbea also uses Mahle’s out-front controller on its Gain e-bike, which looks and functions like a standard cycling computer, and other systems can be controlled via some actual cycling computers, adding to the low-profile integration.

Many motor systems are pretty quiet too, so the rider you’re passing may not notice the tell-tale whine of an electric bike over the sound of their own heart pounding. 

As with electric cars, range anxiety can be at the back of the mind of e-bike riders. No-one wants to be hauling the extra weight of a flat battery up the last hill before reaching home. There’s plenty you can do to extend your e-bike’s battery range though, however limited it may look on paper.

Clearly, the e-bike battery’s capacity will be a key determinant of your range. There’s a compromise that designers need to make between having abundant range and the additional weight that a larger battery will have. Where they draw that line will depend on the electric bike’s intended use. 

At one extreme, electric mountain bikes and some electric hybrid bikes have high capacity batteries, in the former to power their high torque motors up steep ascents and in the latter to provide range and assistance for urban riding.

At the other extreme, lightweight electric road bikes and folding e-bikes tend to have lower battery capacity, in the case of road bikes to offer a sporty ride feel and for folding e-bikes to make them easier to move around. 

Many of the best electric bikes allow you to buy a separate, external range extender battery. This usually sits in a bottle cage or where one would normally be placed and plugs into the battery in the frame. Typically, a range extender will add around 50 percent to an electric bike’s range.

Beyond choosing an e-bike with a suitable battery capacity for its expected use, there’s plenty that you can do to extend your e-bike’s range. Here are some key factors that affect range and what you can do to help increase it.

Riding in 'turbo mode'

The more pedal power you put in, the less a motor will have to work, and so the longer the range you’ll have. If you're relying on the motor to keep you moving, you’ll get close to the stated range, but you can extend that greatly by putting in more of the propulsion yourself.

Most electric bikes allow you to select the level of assistance you want, with usually between three and five options. You can also ride an electric bike without assistance. In many cases, there’s little or no added resistance from the motor when it’s turned off, although you’ll have the extra weight of the motor and battery to move.

To extend your range, it’s a good idea to vary your assistance level, so that you save higher levers for when they’re needed and reduce the assistance when you can get along with less.  

Hilly routes 

If you ride in a hilly area, your e-bike’s motor is likely to be working harder than on the flat to help to pull you up the inclines. You will probably want to select a higher assistance level too. Both will reduce the available range.

Unlike electric cars, electric bikes don’t normally have regenerative braking, so you’ll not recharge the battery on downhills, with energy dissipated instead as heat from use of the e-bike’s brakes.

Stop/start riding is also likely to reduce range, as the motor will be providing more input to help you to accelerate, so riding around town is likely to be more battery-intensive than cruising in the countryside.

Spending more time below the assistance cut off

In much of the world, electric bikes have to cease motor input once your speed exceeds 25kph/15.5mph. For a fit rider on a lighter electric bike, that’s likely to be easily achievable on the flat. Since the motor won’t be working above this speed, you’ll not be using up the e-bike’s battery capacity.

The exception is the US, where assistance cuts out at 20mph or 28mph, depending on the e-bike class. In both cases, it’s likely that the motor will be working much of the time, so there’ll be more drain on the battery. 

Headwinds 

As when riding an unassisted bike, a stiff headwind is a lot harder to ride into than riding with a tailwind or on a still day. That’s going to mean greater drain on your battery, as you’ll need greater support from your motor. 

So it will help extend your available range if you can avoid riding into the wind. If you can plan your ride so that you have the headwind on the way out, when you’re fresher, and have a tailwind on the way home, you may increase your battery’s range a little. 

Storing the battery in cold temperatures 

The temperature at which your battery has to operate will affect its range, with available capacity reducing at lower temperatures. If you’re riding when it’s below 50F/10C outdoors, storing your battery indoors may help you to increase your available range. 

There’s some internal heat generated as the battery discharges, which will help to increase its efficiency once you’re riding.

Not making the most of available software 

Many electric bikes will have a display on the bike or a phone app that will tell you the range available. Some are more clever. 

Specialized’s e-bike app, for example, allows you to input your riding distance and route. It will then calculate an assistance level that will provide you the support that you need but still ensure that the battery will not run flat before you get home.

You can also fine-tune Specialized’s motor’s support levels to match your requirements, again offering an opportunity to extend range.

The Mahle ebikemotion rear hub motor, a popular system used on many lightweight electric bikes, can be linked up to a Bluetooth heart rate monitor. You can use its SmartBike app to set the assistance to cut in when your heart rate exceeds a specified level. 

You can choose between three pre-configured power output profiles or, as with the Specialized app, customize the three available assistance levels to suit your own requirements.

Leaving the battery on the bike, unused 

An electric bike battery will slowly discharge, even when the e-bike is not in use. If you’re not planning to ride over winter, for example, you will probably need to recharge the battery before taking your e-bike out again in the spring.

If your e-bike has a removable battery, it’s generally recommended that you store it off the bike when you’re not riding for an extended period, as there’s background drain from the e-bike’s electronics even when it's not in use.

Fully discharging the battery, and age 

All lithium ion batteries slowly lose capacity over time. How fast this occurs depends on a number of factors, including the number of charging cycles and how low you run them, with repeated full discharge reducing battery lifespan.

Estimates of how long an e-bike battery will last vary and are dependent on other factors like the battery quality, but it’s typically suggested that you may need to replace your battery within three to nine years. 

It’s worthwhile taking steps to try to extend your battery’s life, as replacement batteries are expensive.

The bottom line...

You’ll see that there are many factors which influence your electric bike’s battery range and much you can do to increase it.

For many riders, as long as they keep their e-bike’s battery charged between rides, they’re unlikely to find range to be an issue. If your battery does give out on you before you’ve completed a ride, you can ride home unassisted so, unlike an electric car, you’re never going to be totally stranded by a flat battery.

Setting the correct saddle height on your bike is essential for comfort, efficiency, performance and to avoid injury, which will ultimately allow you to ride longer and push harder.

Not only is it important to choose a bike saddle that's right for you (the best bike saddle varies from rider to rider as we're all built a little differently), finding the optimum saddle height is the foundation of setting up your bike, whether that's with a bike fitter or as part of a DIY bike fit at home.

The saddle height measurement is the distance from the pedal surface to the top of the saddle with the crank arm down and in line with the seat tube. It may also be measured from the centre of the bottom bracket to the top of the saddle, which does not take into account crank length.

How to set your own bike saddle height

There are a number of basic methods and calculations that can be used as a starting point to set saddle height. Most are based on a relationship between saddle height and lower limb length (inseam), or a reference range for knee joint flexion.

However, none of these methods take into account individual characteristics such as flexibility, pedalling style or limb proportions. Formulas are based on averages and mathematics, so it’s worth being aware that they may not give an accurate result for a lot of people.

Heel (or Heel-toe) method

This method requires no equipment and can be used as a quick and easy way to set saddle height. In fact I have suggested to clients to use this method on some occasions where an approximation is sufficient, such as if using an exercise bike at a gym or as a starting point if they have little cycling history.

With the crank in line with the seat post, the cyclist sits on the saddle and puts their heel on the pedal with the knee fully straight (locked out). They should be able to pedal backwards without losing contact of their heel on the pedal at the bottom of the pedal stroke, or tilting their pelvis down to reach the bottom of the pedal stroke. The foot is then placed on the pedal with the ball of the foot over the pedal axis.

LeMond method

This method calculates saddle height by multiplying inseam by 0.883, the measurement being from the centre of the bottom bracket to the top of the saddle. It does not take into account crank length.

The easiest way to measure inseam is to stand against a wall, without shoes, with your feet

shoulder width apart, then place a book (or similar) firmly up between your legs. Mark the point on the wall at the top of the book and measure this distance to the floor. This is your inseam measurement.

Hamley method

This method also uses inseam to calculate saddle height, but the resulting measurement is from the surface of the pedal to the top of the saddle, and hence includes crank length. Multiply your inseam by 1.09 to get this measurement.

Holmes method

According to the Holmes method, the ideal static knee angle at the bottom of the pedal stroke is at 25 to 35 degrees. On a turbo trainer, pedal until you feel comfortable on the saddle, then stop pedalling at the bottom of the pedal stroke. Have an assistant use a goniometer to measure knee angle in this position, using the lateral femoral condyle at the knee, lateral malleolus at the ankle, and greater trochanter at the hip as landmarks.

Research has suggested that the Holmes method can prevent common cycling overuse injuries and enhance performance, with increased anaerobic power at a 25 degree knee angle, and increased aerobic efficiency at a 25 degree knee angle compared to at 35 degrees.

How accurate are these bike saddle height setting methods?

There have been a number of studies that indicates static methods based on anthropometric measurements (88.3% or 109% of inseam) does not ensure an optimal knee angle during pedalling. A study by Peverler et al (2007) has shown that using 109% of inseam is unreliable and falls outside the recommended 25 to 35 degree knee angle greater than half the time.

I carried out my own analysis of how these formulas corresponded to the saddle height set from a full comprehensive bike fit in our clinic, taking a random sample of 20 riders, and found a similar pattern.

A possible reason for the differences is that the measurement does not take into account individual variations in femur, tibia, and foot lengths. These individual variations cannot be accounted for by inseam alone and result in the wide variations in knee angles.

Another possible reason could be because the majority of the studies for predicting seat height from inseam length were done a long time ago (around the 1990s), when toe clips instead of clipless pedals were used.

Of these methods, it is preferable to use one that sets saddle height according to knee angle rather than a formula, although there is no absolute consensus on what this angle should be. There is also room for error when using this method to determine ideal bike saddle height.

The accuracy of finding and marking anatomical landmarks is important, which may be difficult for untrained individuals. Knee angle measurement depends on the ankle angle, so care must be taken to ensure the ankle is in the same position when statically measured as to how it operates dynamically during the pedal stroke. There is also some variation in at what point knee angle is measured - some use bottom dead centre (crank at 90 degrees), whilst others use the point of maximum knee extension with the crank in line with the seat post.

Studies show that knee angle varies depending on whether a static or dynamic measurement is used. A study suggested that the knee flexion angle of 25 to 35 degrees during a static evaluation could correspond with an angle of 30 to 40 degrees during a dynamic evaluation. Dynamic measurements require the use of video or motion capture equipment. Furthermore, a literature review suggested that optimal dynamic knee angle varies depending on the intensity of cycling, with the ideal range being 33 to 43 degrees at bottom dead centre (BDC) at low intensity and 30 to 40 degrees at BDC at high intensity.

What else influences saddle height?

Your ankle position can both determine what height you saddle should be set, as well as give an indication that your saddle height is not ideal. For instance, those with a toe down pedalling style will have relatively less knee extension at BDC (resulting in a relatively lower saddle), or it may be a compensatory pattern for a saddle that is too high with your foot reaching for the bottom of the pedal stroke.

Additionally, some people will change their pedalling style under high load or effort. A common practice is dropping the heel in an attempt to engage the calf in power production, resulting in a relatively higher saddle.

Hamstring flexibility could also affect knee angle during dynamic pedalling. Inflexibility of the hamstring is related to greater knee flexion and a lower saddle position.

Your position on the saddle will influence the saddle height. Sitting forward on the saddle will effectively lower the saddle, sitting towards the back will effectively raise the saddle.

Equipment such as shoes and pedals may have different stack heights. Even amongst the best bib shorts, the chamois' may have different thicknesses. Your saddle height may need to be adjusted if changing equipment.

How to know if your saddle height is correct

A correctly placed saddle should result in:

 - A stable pelvis with your sit bones supported - tilting of the pelvis from side to side may indicate the saddle is too high.

 - A stable foot - there should not be excessive toe down or heel down.

 - A smooth pedal stroke - a “dead spot” or a feeling of losing contact at the bottom of the pedal stroke may mean the saddle is too high.

 - Not continually moving on saddle - we often move forward or back on the saddle to find ideal knee extension.

 - Balanced recruitment of muscles with an even load and tension through the muscle groups eg. not quad dominant

 - Minimal discomfort, particularly in the knee (front, back or side)

The repetitive nature of cycling means it is important to have the correct saddle height to help prevent injury. Common issues resulting from an inappropriate saddle height include knee pain, saddle discomfort (pressure, numbness, sores), hip pain/impingement, hamstrings tendiopathy, back pain, achilles issues, neck pain, and hand and wrist pain/numbness. However, you don’t necessarily need to have pain or injury for the saddle height not to be optimal. 

How to determine the optimal saddle height

The above methods can be used as a starting point for setting saddle height, but getting the correct saddle height requires making small adjustments (2mm at a time) based on feedback and awareness. If after this trial and error the saddle height, or position in general, still does not feel right, then you may require the skills of a bike fitter.

Height is not the only thing about the saddle that needs to be considered - the fore/aft position of the saddle, saddle tilt, and saddle characteristics (width, shape, firmness, cut out etc) will influence whether you are comfortable and efficient when pedalling. Changing any aspect of the saddle position may require a small adjustment of the saddle height, as will changing cleat position. For example, moving the saddle up by 10mm will also move the saddle back by about 3mm due to the angle of the seat post.

The bike fitter will use their knowledge and highly trained observation skills to look at pedalling technique and style, smoothness, stability and compensatory strategies, as well as ask for feedback from you. 

They will observe or measure joint angles and use information from your physical screening to determine the optimal saddle height and position for you.

Saddle position is the foundation of a good bike fit. Finding an appropriate handlebar stack and reach cannot be done well if a proper saddle position is not established first.

Riding should never feel like an obligation or a chore, but sometimes motivation can wane.

Even if you’ve all the tools and motivation you need to ride, sometimes new perspectives and ideas will make riding even more fun.

These dozen tips — some of which are free — can help you ride with even more enthusiasm and enjoyment, with fewer concerns and have more fun.

Use anti-chafe

A good chamois cream or anti-chafe balm might be the best bang for your buck when it comes to comfort. If you’re comfortable, you’ll have more fun on your ride.

Splurge on quality bib shorts

While bargain bike bike shorts may be satisfactory, the comfort offered by premium cycling shorts, with a high-quality chamois, is unparalleled. Check out our favorite men’s cycling bib shorts and top picks for women’s cycling bib shorts to help you stay in the saddle longer.

Experiment with optimal tire pressure

Start with a tire pressure calculator to get a rough recommendation and then try adding or subtracting two or three psi. You’ll need a precise and accurate pressure gauge, and you’ll want to try repeating routes for apples-to-apples comparison.

Swap your butyl inner tubes to latex or TPU

If you’re not yet using tubeless tires, latex inner tubes are the next best thing. Latex tubes decrease rolling resistance, are less prone to pinch flats than standard inner tubes, and offer a much smoother ride with lower rolling resistance. TPU inner tubes offer a similar ride quality as latex, and are a great space-saving option for spare tubes.

Ride your favorite routes in reverse

Discover a new perspective on familiar roads — because new roads are fun, right?! For those who use a bike computer to navigate a saved route in reverse:

- Garmin users: Login to the Garmin Connect website on a laptop or desktop, and then go to the Training>Courses screen. Duplicate an existing course, and then select the Reverse Direction option at the top of the map screen.

- Wahoo users: In the mobile app, you need only select a route and then click the left/right arrow button at the top-right of the map page.

Ask Strava to create a route for you

Taking some of the guesswork out of finding routes can lead to riding on new or unexplored (for you) routes that could become new favorites. Strava subscribers can use the route creation tool to create a route based on other riders’ data — most commonly ridden routes in a region — while also allowing users to specify elevation gain, route surface, distance, and more.

Use Google street view to preview newly-created routes

This is a great way to get some peace-of-mind about surfaces and safety. After using a route creation tool like Strava or Ride With GPS, use Google Street View to preview the route. Because being comfortable while riding is more fun than stressing kilometer after kilometer.

Ride naked for a liberating experience

Keep your cycling kit on but leave your electronics at home, or put them in a jersey pocket if you must take them with you. Not having to worry about ride metrics, KOMs/QOMs, FKTs or personal bests is liberating.

Stop and take a photo

Yeah, we mentioned not bringing electronics along for the ride, too. But if you do pull your phone out of your jersey pocket on rare occasion, stop and snap a photo. When you later look at it you’ll remember so many aspects and small details of a particular ride, and you’ll be smiling for years to come. Also, you can prove your ride happened.

Use a cable and a wireless dongle to prevent signal drops when riding indoors

For those using a desktop or laptop when cycling indoors, you can ensure that your computer will maintain a high-quality signal with your smart trainer by using a wireless dongle plugged into an extension cable that’s plugged into your computer. Place the dongle, which plugs into a USB extension cord that plugs into your computer, close to your smart trainer and you’ll likely never experience signal drops. Frustration-free rides are always better.

Change your on-bike nutrition

Try new flavors of snacks and drinks, or how you’re getting your nutrition. While pre-packaged sports food is convenient, processed sports foods can be uninspiring, and if you’ve ever subsisted on sweet-tasting things for a long ride, you may be familiar with the burn-out. Cold pizza (carbs, fat, salt) bites.

Stop for a mid-ride coffee or post-ride beer

If you regularly churn through a ride without stopping, change your routine and enjoy a coffee midway through your outing, or enjoy a beer when you’re done with your ride. The pause in pedaling and/or the post-ride brews are two, fun things to look forward to while riding!

Whilst some riders seem happy, or oblivious, to their bikes making a cacophony of noise, most of us prefer a silent ride. However, we’ve all experienced an annoying creak or unexplained rattle from time to time. These noises may be irritating to us and our ride buddies, but they can also indicate that maintenance is needed, parts are due replacement, or even that something more serious is afoot. They are always worth investigating.  

Diagnosing mystery noises is far from straightforward, rarely can they be reproduced on the workstand. Bikes, particularly carbon ones, transmit noise throughout the frame, making it extremely difficult to find the source of the trouble. I once spent a few miles on a warm ride trying to discover where some terminal-sounding frame clunks were coming from, only to realize it was the ice cubes knocking about in my water bottle. 

Here we'll guide you through some possible causes, checks and fixes to the most likely culprits. Please always refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for your components and use the right tools for the job. A good torque wrench is invaluable to ensure that bolts are tight enough, but not over-tightened, especially where carbon is involved.  

Diagnosis

Does the noise only occur when pedalling, or is it present when rolling along as well?

If when pedalling only, then it is likely to be related to the drivetrain or your movement on the bike, ie. saddle/seatpost

Is the noise present when standing and sitting, or just one or the other?

If only when seated, then look for saddle/seatpost issues first of all. If only when standing then the headset, bars or stem might be to blame

Does extra pressure on the pedals increase the noise?

If so, then the drivetrain, bottom bracket or pedals are likely culprits

Does the frequency of the noise increase with speed or is it related to pedalling cadence?

An increase in noise frequency with rolling speed suggests hub or wheel issues whereas an increase in noise frequency with cadence suggests that you should look at the saddle/seatpost or pedals/cleats.

Does applying the brakes increase or decrease the noise?

Disc brake noises could fill an article by themselves, but they aren’t too much to worry about unless accompanied by a loss of power. If the application of the brakes reduces or stops the noise, the brake pads need adjusting to stop them catching. If the noise increases, then there might be some contamination or pad/piston vibrations causing the problem.

Getting a friend to ride behind you and beside you to see if they agree with your diagnosis of the origin of the noise can narrow down the likely issue.

Quick fixes

Before we dive deep into bike noise and its causes, here are a few easy fixes to try first:

- A tinkling or ticking noise from the rear wheel, when you are in the largest sprocket, may mean your inner limit screw needs adjusting. Your derailleur may be contacting the spokes. 

- A light rattle when the bike is picked up and moved is often caused by a loose lock nut on the valve or the valve itself rattling against the valve hole. Tighten the nut or wrap some electrical tape around the valve stem to cure this.

- Gear and brake cables can rattle against each other or the frame, but a strategically placed zip tie or two usually fixes this.

- Excessive chain slap on gravel or mountain bikes could be a reminder to re-engage the derailleur’s clutch mechanism. Or it could mean your chain length is too long.

- If your cleats or pedal plates get very dry or dusty they can creak with each revolution, which can sound alarmingly like a pedal axle issue or bottom bracket problem. Easily cured with a squirt of water while riding, or a quick application of beeswax furniture polish at home.

- And finally, perhaps the most common bicycle noise of all, a dry chain will creak and squeak as it negotiates the cassette and pulley wheels. An application of chain lube, preferably after a good chain clean, will sort this instantly.

Drivetrain

 Front and rear derailleur 

A poorly adjusted rear derailleur will make a constant noise as the chain tries to climb up or drop down the cassette. A small turn of the barrel adjuster (or play with the appropriate buttons for electric gears) should bring everything back into line. If this doesn’t work, and/or the gears are very hard to index properly then a bent derailleur hanger is probably to blame. Either very carefully bend it back straight, or, better still, replace it.

Noise from the front derailleur is likely to be intermittent as it will only rub in extreme gears and often only when under force from the pedals, which slightly twist the frame bringing the chain into contact with the derailleur plates. Check that alignment is to spec, adjust the cable tension or avoid extreme gear combinations.

For more details, see our guide to gear indexing.

Cassette

 An excessively worn cassette, chain or chainrings can cause noise, so buy a chain checker and keep on top of chain replacement. Replacing a chain before it reaches 0.75% worn reduces wear on the cassette and chainrings, saving you money.

The cassette can also make a wide range of noises if not tightened properly onto the freehub. This is often accompanied by very poor shifting as the sprockets move rather than the chain. One set of wheels I had would groan constantly and the fix in the end was periodic greasing of the freehub splines.

Chainset

Chainring bolts can cause a surprising amount of noise, ranging from occasional clicks to alarming creaks, so ensure that these are kept tight. When fitting new chainrings I also tend to put some very light grease on the clean spider and chainring surfaces where they contact each other to prevent creaking.

 Bottom bracket 

Noises from this area can sound very alarming as they reverberate through the frame’s tubes. The bearings, if accessible, can be regreased but more usually it’s either an indication that the bottom bracket needs replacing or that it needs re-seating in the frame. 

Wiggling or rocking the crank arms to look for any play should give you an indication if a new one is due. Pressfit bottom brackets have a bad reputation for being noisy even when not worn out, as they are simply pushed into place and glued rather than threaded in securely. Often, a bit more retaining compound is needed. 

If you need a new bottom bracket, then our guide can point you in the right direction for a worthwhile upgrade.

 Pedals 

 As mentioned previously, cleats can make a lot of noise where they contact the pedal, but this is annoying rather than damaging and easily cured. All pedals run on internal bearings so these can wear out or become dry - some higher-end pedals are fully serviceable either by disassembly and regreasing or replacing the bearings. Alternatively there might be an external grease port into which you can pump fresh grease. Cheaper pedals may not be serviceable at all.

If your pedals can't be salvaged, then have a look at our guides to the best flat pedals and the best clipless pedals.

Chain

As well as squeaking when dry, chains can also make a noise if a link becomes damaged. When the damaged link passes through the derailleur or around the cassette there may be a ticking or clicking noise. However, it might not feel regular enough for easy diagnosis as frequency is related to gear ratio and cadence - very roughly, the link will pass through the derailleur every two and a half pedal revolutions. It's definitely worth persevering with though as a snapped chain is something best avoided!

Choose one of the best chain lubes for optimum results.

Headset, stem and handlebar

Most noise from this area is caused by something not being tight enough, or being too tight. Stem bolts should always be tightened to the manufacturer’s specifications using a torque wrench. Equally, take plenty of care when tensioning the top cap bolt that compresses the headset. Using carbon paste in areas that involve carbon components will increase friction, prevent creaking and ensure that the components are secure without needing to be overtightened. 

A loose headset manifests itself as a knock or a creak and should be looked at as soon as possible because the frame or fork can get damaged if left for too long. Diagnosis is simple - apply the front brake and rock the bike forwards and backwards, feeling for movement or knocking noise.

The bearings, particularly the lower ones that are in the line of fire from wheel spray, will also need regreasing periodically, but this usually results in a gritty feel rather than a noise. 

Brakes

Noises from rim brakes are typically pretty simple to diagnose; a rubbing noise while riding indicates that pads are contacting the rim, either because the caliper needs to be centered, the wheel has a buckle that needs fixing or the pads are running too close to the rim and need adjusting outwards.

Fixing disc brakes is a little more complicated, although the same principles apply. As the tolerances are much tighter, more care is needed when setting them up and fixing them. The occasional ‘ting’, especially after a long brake application is nothing to worry about as it's just the hot rotor expanding and will usually fix itself within a few seconds. More continuous noise will need looking at though, as no one wants to ride along with their brakes rubbing. 

Check that the caliper is straight and evenly spaced in relation to the rotor. To do this, loosen off the two bolts that secure it, make sure that the caliper is ‘free-floating’ and then pull the relevant brake lever to apply the pads to the rotor. This should self-align the caliper and pads to the rotor, so all you need to do now is tighten up the bolts while still holding the brake lever. It can sometimes be useful to put a piece of thin card on either side of the rotor where the pads contact it to add a bit of extra clearance. Spin the wheel very slowly and carefully to check that the spacing is even all the way around. If it isn’t, then the rotor is slightly warped.

There are specific tools for straightening bent rotors, but for occasional use, a large adjustable spanner does a pretty good job - just make sure it doesn’t have any grease residue on it before applying it to the rotor surface.

If the caliper is evenly spaced but the pads aren’t, then the pistons behind the pads aren’t retracting or pushing out evenly. Use a pad spacer tool or a plastic tire lever to push the pistons back fully into the caliper and (with the pads in place) pump the brake lever a few times. If the pads still aren’t sitting evenly in the caliper, then the pistons will benefit from some lubrication - use a few drops of whatever hydraulic oil your system uses to lube the pistons so that they move smoothly into and out of the caliper.

The bane of any disc brake is when they squeal while in use. Often this is just a bit of moisture or grit on the pads that sorts itself out, but more regular or prolonged howling might indicate that the pads and rotor are contaminated and need a clean. Perhaps a bit of chain oil has splashed onto them, some GT85 or even some brake fluid. If you think that this is the case then use some isopropyl alcohol or a brake cleaner on a cloth to thoroughly clean all the surfaces. In the worst cases, it might be necessary to change the brake pads completely.

We have a whole article dedicated to disc brakes for further information.

Saddle and seatpost

Perhaps surprisingly, the saddle and seatpost can make quite a racket at times. The biggest giveaway is that the creaking only occurs when seated and usually in time with your pedaling cadence. The cause is either where the seatpost and saddle rails contact each other or where the seatpost sits in the frame. In both cases, give the areas a good clean and put back together using a small amount of grease or carbon paste if any surface is made of carbon. Tighten the bolts to the correct torque. 

Cables

External cables can rattle or knock on each other but can be easily fixed with a judicious zip tie or two; just make sure that the steering range, gear shifting and braking aren't impeded. Much harder to diagnose and fix are internal cables rattling against the inside of the frame. Most bike manufacturers mitigate against this by holding the cables captive and separate from each other and the frame, but if not then your options are limited. Shortening the cables or hoses so that they are under a little more tension might work, otherwise, you may have to consider a squirt or two of expanding foam to hold things in place. 

Wheels

Spokes

A light tinkling noise when your rear derailleur is not in the lowest gear, especially at low speed uphill, is caused by the spokes moving slightly against each other as the wheel flexes under pressure. Black, bladed spokes seem to do this more than others, and as there is no real harm being done you could choose to leave it - you won’t be aware of it most of the time anyway. A tiny drop of chain wax or grease at every point that the spokes contact each other silences the noise very effectively if it does trouble you.

Hubs

Like all bearings, hub bearings can wear out, get too dry or loosen off - all of which can cause them to create a bit of a racket. A lot of hubs can be snugged up with a couple of Allen keys if there is play in them, and most use sealed cartridge bearings that can be pushed out and replaced if required. Shimano hubs use a more traditional cup and cone system, which should be serviced and regreased regularly using cone spanners. 

Fenders/Mudguards

Everyone who has ridden a bike knows the annoyance of the fender or mudguard rattle. A necessary evil throughout the winter months, poorly fitted fenders can rattle persistently, especially the lightweight type that can be fitted to bikes without proper mudguard eyelets. Optimise your choice of mudguards by having a look at our guide to the best bike fenders/mudguards.

There isn’t a lot of advice to offer here, other than to fit them as carefully as possible and make sure that all the little bolts are tight and that the blade of the mudguard doesn’t knock against the frame. The area between the seat stays is particularly prone to being caught by the edges of the mudguard and this can cause actual damage to the frame as the mudguard rattles. Otherwise, most mudguard noises are annoying rather than problematic. 

Frame

And finally, noises caused by the frame itself are fortunately quite rare, but also quite serious, so don’t ignore them! Nobody wants a frame failure while riding. 

Cracks in the frame can click or groan when the bike is under pressure but will be almost impossible to replicate in the workshop. Regularly washing and cleaning your bike gives you the perfect opportunity to inspect the frame for any cracks or wear points, so get your hosepipe out!

Navigating the labyrinth of American health insurance is seldom a joyride; it's often all paperwork, premiums and headaches. Yet, with the tedium and stress, there are hidden perks that help make you a better, healthier cyclist. 

Benefits can range from basic injury coverage, reimbursement for coaching and even getting a proper bike fit. These can be a tool for you to further your cycling goals and ensure long term health. 

Health insurance is essential for everyone, and helps to ensure access to quality healthcare, protect against financial hardship, promote preventive care, and provide peace of mind for individuals and families. But here are five benefits specifically with cyclists in mind.

 Coverage in case of a crash for you and your bike

As a cyclist, it’s an unfortunate reality that one might come to fall or be involved in a crash or collision. Even if you’re young and healthy, the risk of a bike crash is a good reason to invest in health insurance. Should the unfortunate happen, knowing you’ll be taken care of physically and financially is a huge peace of mind.  To get back in your best shape, physical therapy is covered by most insurances albeit often with a copay attached. A good physical therapist can help you stay healthy for years to come after an injury.

If you’re also a car owner with driver’s insurance, who pays for what service in such an instance can get confusing. There are some cases when you can be fully covered by the car’s insurance, but proving your innocence can be a drawn out process. Backing up your health insurance with a decent Personal Injury Protection (PIP) policy is your safest bet if you’re a road cyclist. Car insurance will often cover the damage to your bike and jump in to cover the hospital or doctor’s bills where your health insurance falls short.

Your insurance may pay for a cycling coach

A cycling coach can offer many benefits to help achieve your fitness and competitive goals. They can write you personalized training schedules, keep you accountable, and give expert guidance on strategy, nutrition and even logistics. However, their services are a financial investment. In some cases, however, your health insurance can help you cover the coaching fees. Acquiring a coach directly through health insurance requires proving that a coach is medically necessary.

This process starts with a thorough medical evaluation by a healthcare professional. They'll assess your medical condition, physical abilities, and whether you could benefit from specialized training or coaching. Next, you'll need to gather medical records and test results, along with any relevant notes from healthcare providers. These documents should outline why performance coaching is necessary. Maybe you have specific health conditions, rehabilitation needs, or fitness objectives. Your healthcare provider may also issue a "letter of medical necessity" to justify why performance coaching is crucial for your overall health and well-being.

Or at least a gym membership

If your workplace doesn’t already offer an employee wellbeing program or gym discount, some insurance plans like Aetna and AmeriHealth offer reimbursements or savings on gym memberships. While Aetna’s benefits seem more rigid, AmeriHealth has a flexible rewards program through Husk that may even help pay for a bike. 

Many companies offer their own wellness benefits that can be in the form of a flat reimbursement. My last job offered $150 a month towards “wellness”. I had latitude to use the $150 for anything, including cycling coaches. I could have even used it for a bike fit, which is difficult to justify to providers in comparison.

Bike fitting

You may be eligible to get a bike fit through your health insurance. Two things are necessary: the fitter needs to be a physical therapist, and the bike fit needs to be deemed a medical necessity. Back pain, previous injury or knee pain are common complaints that can lead to a diagnosis of a medically necessary bike fit. There are a few bike fitter/PT combos, many clustered in Seattle and Portland, including one at the University of Washington. There also seem to be many in Illinois state. It’s worth a quick google search to find bike fitters who take insurance in your area.

Before pursuing a bike fit and seeking insurance coverage, it's crucial to clarify your provider’s policy. Review your policy or contact your insurance provider directly to find which services fall within your coverage. Some insurance plans may include specific provisions for physical therapy or rehabilitation services, potentially encompassing bike fitting as part of a treatment regimen. They may contain preventative services too, where bike fitting may fit in. More and more providers are beginning to treat problems at the source before they grow.

If you're grappling with a medical condition or injury stemming from cycling or physical activity, it's prudent to engage with your healthcare provider. They can conduct an assessment to determine whether a bike fit is medically warranted for your treatment and recovery. Should your healthcare provider deem a bike fit necessary, requesting a prescription or referral for the service can bolster your case when seeking insurance coverage.

By adhering to these steps, individuals can navigate the process of exploring insurance coverage for a bike fit, ensuring that they receive appropriate care aligned with their healthcare needs.

Help with nutrition

Another aspect of health insurance, and wellness benefits is nutritional services. Dialing in what you eat can help your performance and your recovery. You can feel better on and off the bike. Nutrition services are widely available through insurance, to those who seek them out.

While paying for a bike coach can be tricky, getting a nutrition coach who takes into account your time on the bike is easy. “The Affordable Care Act mandates that health insurance covers nutrition counseling. Health insurance companies like Aetna, United Healthcare, BlueCross BlueShield, and Anthem all cover dietitian services,” according to Fay Nutrition, a tool to find covered dietitians. These providers can give you the supercharge to take charge of your dietary health. You can feel better, perform better, and recover better through a diet specified to you. 

Mental health coverage

We all struggle with mental health at one point or another, but mental health is for more than just depression. It can help you contextualize and improve your life, on and off the bike. Therapy is usually covered in part or fully by health insurance. The number of mental health professionals on your specific policy can be limited. A mental health professional can help you as an athlete and a person. Preparing for events, balancing life and training, and mentality during races are all overlooked aspects of being a cyclist. A therapist forces you to dial in on these components of a healthy life, on and off the race path. 

It pays to read the fine print

To wrap it up, understanding your insurance benefits as a cyclist is crucial for your peace of mind on the road or trail. Take the time to review your policies and chat with healthcare providers when necessary to ensure you're covered for everything from bike fits to cycling-related injuries. By taking these steps, you not only protect yourself but also contribute to a more cyclist-friendly insurance environment overall. So, whether you're out for a leisurely ride or pushing your limits, taking advantage of your benefits lets you focus on enjoying your cycling adventures 

Congratulations, you’ve registered for your first gravel race! Now the real fun (and work) begins – training and preparation for what will likely be your longest, hardest day on the bicycle yet.

With two Unbound Gravel century finishes and one DFL crown (Dead F***ing Last) at MidSouth Gravel to my name, I’ve figured out a few things that are crucial to taking on a gravel century. 

While I don’t have a specific training plan or mileage targets for you to follow (–I’m by no means qualified to give you that advice but you can find one here), I have some tried and true advice that will hopefully have you crossing that finish line triumphant and excited to sign up for your next big challenge.

Tip 1: Eat Early and Often

A century is basically a 100-mile snack parade. Your job is to continually eat and drink your way through the miles. When it feels hard, eat. When you hate your bike, eat. I’m serious. You love bikes, you love riding your bike, and today, you get to do it all day long. Eat and it’ll be easier to remember this.

Use your training miles to dial in your nutrition and hydration plan. Figure out what foods your body likes (i.e. can digest without problem) and where to store your food so that you can access it while riding. Don’t forget to practice eating while riding, as you’ll want to have this perfected by event day.

I strongly recommend a mix of real food (peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, orange slices, trail mix) and engineered food (gels, energy chews, liquid calories), with a variety of flavors, including sweet and salty.

Pro-tip: If you use a bike computer, set up a custom alert to remind you to eat at regular intervals. I use the Wahoo ELEMNT Bolt and heart rate monitor to remind me to eat at every 100 calories burned.

Tip 2: Get Those Miles In Now

Whether you’re riding inside or outdoors, now is the time to build your endurance on the bicycle. I recommend using a structured training plan (like those on Zwift or Wahoo Systm) to build your mileage and saddle time in a sustainable way. It might feel silly to be logging hours on the bike in February for an event that is still months away, but trust me, the more time you spend now, the easier those 100 miles are going to feel.

Now is also a perfect time to ensure your bike fits well. A professional bike fit will help improve your comfort and reduce the risk of injury.

Tip 3: Control the Controllables

With any event or ride, there will be things that are out of your hands, namely the weather and course conditions. You have control over everything else.

These variables include:

- Your bike set up. Pay attention to the details including water bottle placement, computer mounting, your ideal tire pressure and storage.

- Emergency roadside repair. Learn how to fix a flat tire, and practice (even if you’re running tubeless tires.) Know what’s in your emergency repair kit and how to use it. Many bike shops and community cycling centers offer classes, and YouTube can be a great resource. Don’t let a minor mechanical derail your hard earned effort.

- Clothing. Figure out what you like to wear for long days on the bike, paying special attention to the contact points on your body (hands, feet and butt.) Now is the time to try different gloves, socks, shoes, and chamois - and make sure you pack your favorites for the actual event!

- Learn how to navigate. Many courses are unmarked and it’s your responsibility to download the route before the event. RideWithGPS offers frequent webinars and has a huge resource library to learn this skill. It can feel like a steep learning curve, but once you figure it out, you’ll feel much more confident riding on unfamiliar terrain.

Know this:

I know you can do this. You know you can do this. Take the time now to prepare - mentally and physically and those 100 miles will tick away faster than you can ever imagine.

If you’ve bought a bike in the last few years there is a good chance that it will be equipped with hydraulic disc brakes. Today, the vast majority of the best road bikes and the best gravel bikes come fitted with them as standard, with typically only cheap road bikes (and the occasional off-grid adventure focused gravel bike) still using the mechanical version.

If you’re used to maintaining mechanical discs but have now switched to hydraulic brakes you'll notice some similarities, but also some differences too. Naturally, much of this comes from the contrast between cables and hydraulic brake fluid; hydro brakes, for example, are self-adjusting while mechanical brakes require you to add tension to the cable via the barrel adjuster to accommodate brake pad wear.

To help you maintain your hydraulic disc brakes, we’ve focused on seven of the common issues, and how to fix them at home.

Silencing squealing disc brakes

The most common issue with hydro disc brakes is noise while braking. And it can be quite the noise!

Shrieking disc brakes can be caused by various factors. It may be a result of the environment (wet conditions), dirty brake pads or rotors, or misaligned calipers. Fortunately, cleaning to silence hydro disc brake components is usually easy and inexpensive. And you can even clean rotors without removing them from the wheels.

Using a clean, soft rag that won’t mar the rotor braking surface, wipe the rotors with brake cleaning fluid or rubbing alcohol. To be extra sure that your rotors run quietly and are clean, you can use a flame to scorch the rotor braking surface.

Cleaning disc brake pads is a similar process to cleaning brake rotors, with one easy additional step. After removing the brake pads, use 120-grit sandpaper in a sanding block to remove any dirt from the brake pads. Thoroughly wipe the pads with isopropyl alcohol, which is less expensive than commercial brake cleaning solution. Ensure the brake pads are free of contaminants by using a flame to scorch the pads' braking surfaces. This is a good opportunity to inspect brake pads for any defects like grooves, and to ensure there is ample pad material before reinstalling the pads into the brake caliper.

It is worth noting that sometimes pads just can't be saved, and replacing or upgrading to a high-quality pad and one of the best brake pads for road and gravel can be a worthwhile investment in performance as well as durability.

As mentioned, another cause of squealing disc brakes may be improperly aligned brake calipers - and we'll cover this next.

Realigning the brake calipers

While a disc rubbing can sometimes be down to a warped or bent disc rotor, it can also be caused by a misaligned disc brake caliper.

The pads are designed to sit an equal distance apart, with the rotor squarely between them. Unlike the majority of mechanical disc brakes where only one side of the caliper is operational, with hydraulic brakes both pads move when the brake lever is pulled. Therefore, if the caliper is misaligned then one pad will hit the rotor first.

This can compromise the braking power. It can also mean that the brakes rub even when they aren’t activated.

Other brake noises, such as squealing, can also be caused by misaligned calipers. So how do you remedy the problem?

Before you begin the alignment process it’s worth checking that your pads haven’t been wearing unevenly. If the brake caliper has been poorly set up for a while this could well be the case - ideally you don't want to realign the calipers around pads that are uneven in their wear. You’ll also want to check that the pistons are both moving freely. We cover changing your pads and freeing your pistons in this guide.

If both are ok, you can now re-align the caliper. And fortunately it’s a simple process. Firstly you’ll want to loosen the caliper mounting bolts. You only need to do this so there is a little play in the caliper.

From here you need to apply the brake lever and then hold it down. With the caliper now actuated, and the pads held firmly against the rotor, you can can begin to tighten the caliper mounting bolts. Tighten them by rotating from one to the other and back again. This helps to keep the caliper aligned. You’ll also ideally want to tighten them to the specific torque - using one of the best torque wrenches will help you do this accurately and efficiently.

Now it’s time to check your work. Release the brake lever and spin the wheel. If the caliper has been aligned successfully there will no longer be any rub. You can also check that the gap between pad and rotor is even on both sides by placing a piece of white behind the caliper - this allows you to better see the gap. If it looks equal, you’re now good to go.

However, if your brakes still squeal after cleaning the pads and rotors, and also after realigning brake calipers, try changing brake pads to a different brand that is compatible with your caliper and brake rotor type.

Replacing hydraulic brake pads

Swapping hydraulic brake pads is a quick and easy fix to ensure optimal brake performance. Replace the pads in-kind to ensure compatibility, or you can use a third-party pad to enhance braking performance, extend brake life, or quiet loud braking action.

There’s no single rule-of-thumb for pad replacement frequency, which is affected by combined rider and bike weight, riding conditions and parcours, brake pad material and other factors.

That said, sooner is always better than later. Leaving pads until they have worn past the recommended wear point (this thickness differs from one pad to the next, so check the manufacturer’s guidelines) will compromise your braking. Leave them until they are through to the metal and you’re likely to badly damage your calipers too.

Replacing pads in-kind is straightforward. If going with some of the best brake pads for road and gravel (e.g., SwissStop, Absolute Black, etc.) double-check pad compatibility with brake caliper manufacturers. If you’re unsure about pad material, check the brake rotor model number and compare it against the manufacturer's recommendation on its website. Most brake pad websites have guides to match brake pads to rotors manufacturers’ models.

Because of the differences in brake pad material–organic or resin disc brake pads may make less noise than metallic or sintered brake pads–you can expect slightly different braking performance. If you’re a relatively lighter-weight rider and/or don’t ride in a mountainous area, you might consider using organic pads and appropriate rotors.

After you’ve installed replacement pads, you’ll want to bed-in the brake pads before the next ride. This process glazes brake rotors with a very fine layer of brake pad material, which aids in efficient stopping.

Truing disc brake rotors

Just like bicycle wheels, disc brake rotors can come out of alignment and require truing. Although rotors can withstand very high temperatures and compressive forces, they are not designed to take sideways impact loads, and you should never lean your bike supported by a brake rotor. An easy way to check the trueness of a disc rotor: put a white towel on the floor, position your bike above the towel and spin the wheel. Sight along the rotor as it passes through the brake caliper and you should be able to see any wobble in the braking surface. More obvious, tell-tale signs that a brake rotor is out of true are any sounds it makes against brake pads, or feeling a feedback pulse—akin to a wobble—when applying the brakes.

A minor wobble is relatively easy to fix with a rotor truing tool, or a large-jawed adjustable wrench. Err on the side of caution when truing a disc brake rotor: Use a very light hand and just enough force to set the rotor true.

Replacing disc brake rotors

Inspect disc rotors to ensure they are not grooved, grossly out of true, or worn thin. Those who frequently ride in wet conditions or who brake heavily for extended periods of time–like descending mountains–may need to replace disc brake rotors more frequently than those who ride in flat and dry conditions. Or, if you’ve inadvertently leaned your bike against the rotor and it’s bent, it may need to be replaced. Most rotors have a minimum thickness printed on them. Use a caliper measuring tool to verify your rotors meet this standard. Rotors that measure less than the recommended thickness should be replaced. Rotors designed for use with sintered or metallic brake pads may wear more quickly than those designed for organic brake pads; heavier riders may wear rotors faster than lighter riders.

If you need to replace your rotor, consider replacing it in-kind to ensure compatibility, and also use the same size as the ones being replaced to avoid unnecessary caliper adjustment and ensure optimal brake performance.

After replacing the disc brake rotors, make sure to liberally grease the lockring threads or rotor mounting bolts (tightened to torque specification) prior to cinching tight, to make successive maintenance easy. Take extra special care to keep the new rotor clean and completely free of contaminants during the installation process.

Fixing spongy lever feel

Before taking on a full brake bleed to rectify squishy braking action or mushy feel, consider checking brake lever free stroke. Free stroke is the distance the lever moves while braking, before the brake pads engage the brake rotor. As brake pads wear, the gap between the pads and rotors should not increase (another bonus feature of hydraulic disc brakes) and braking feel should not dramatically change.

But sometimes it's necessary to adjust the lever throw distance which impacts the feel of squeezing the lever against the brake pads. Some component manufacturers design brake levers with a free stroke adjustment screw, however, not all brake levers from all manufacturers are designed with this feature. If your brake lever throw does not feel factory-fresh after some use and you do not have a free stroke adjustment, you can try to fix this by doing something that many mechanics caution against: Squeezing the brake lever without the wheel/brake rotor in place.

Squeeze the lever just a little to force the pistons and pads closer together, then replace the wheel and try the brake(s) again. Do this iteratively and with caution, a small amount of squeeze each time. You do not want to squeeze the levers too much and extend the pistons too close together, or you will have to reset the pistons back into the caliper.

If you’ve reset the disc brake pistons and the lever still feels squishy, or you can pull it all the way to the handlebar and still not achieve good braking, it might be time for a full disc brake bleed.

Pistons not retracting

Over time, the hydraulic brake pistons may collect dirt and not fully retract after releasing brake levers. If your brakes are still loud when not breaking, and if you’ve already verified that your disc brake rotors are true and centred, you should clean the hydraulic caliper pistons to ensure they retract into the caliper housing when brake levers are released. If that ting ting ting sound of your brake rotors brushing against your brake pads doesn’t go away almost immediately after you release your brake lever, it could be an indication that you may need to clean the pistons that press brake pads against disc rotors.

After carefully removing the brake pads while keeping the braking surface clean of contaminants, gently squeeze the brake levers to expose the pistons. It’s advisable to not fully squeeze your brake levers to fully close the gap between pistons. Holding the brake levers to expose the pistons, wipe the pistons with alcohol to clean them and then let them dry for a few moments.

While still holding the brake levers to keep the pistons exposed, apply just a few drops of hydraulic brake fluid to the sides of the pistons (ensuring that you use the fluid appropriate for the specific type of brake). Release the brake lever to retract the pistons; you may need to use a flat, plastic tool (either a brake piston tool or a tire lever) to push the pistons into the caliper body.

Taking special care to keep the brake pads free from contaminants, reinstall them into the brake caliper body. Then, gently work the brake levers to allow the brake fluid to fully lubricate the caliper pistons.

After doing any maintenance on brake calipers, pads, or rotors, and to ensure the calipers are properly aligned and brake pads are set equidistant from the rotor, use a device like the Hayes Feel'r Gauge Disc Brake Alignment Tool. The tool is easy to use — some riders even use it when doing wheel swaps.

The final Monument of the 2023 season, the Giro di Lombardia, is upon us, running from 9:20 to 16:01 on Saturday, October 7 as the year of racing draws to a close.

If you don’t want to miss any of the action you’ll need to watch a Giro di Lombardia live stream. You can follow the race on GCN+ and Eurosport/Discovery+ in the UK, and in the USA, with free-to-air options in Italy via RAI. Make sure you know how to watch from anywhere with a VPN.

Tadej Pogačar (UAE Team Emirates) heads up a star-packed start list in Lombardy as he aims at becoming the only person since Fausto Coppi to win three editions of the race in a row.

The Slovenian superstar will have 238km of a mountainous route to contend with along the way, not to mention a host of top rivals including Primož Roglič (Jumbo-Visma), Remco Evenepoel (Soudal-QuickStep), Enric Mas (Movistar), and Thibaut Pinot (Groupama-FDJ).

There are several services broadcasting Giro di Lombardia live streams around the world. Below we explain everything you need to know about keeping up with the race in 2023.

Watch Giro di Lombardia live stream in the UK

Il Lombardia live streams will be available in the UK on Saturday, October 7 courtesy of GCN+ and Discovery+ (the home of Eurosport).

Access to GCN+ costs £39.99 a year, or £6.99 per month. Coverage of the race is start to finish, meaning you can watch the riders roll out and battle for the break in addition to the decisive fights towards the end of the race. Tune in from 9am UK time to watch.

For Discovery+ and Eurosport coverage, the Entertainment and Sports pass is available for £59.99 a year, or £6.99 per month. 

Highlights of the Giro di Lombardia are available on both platforms as well as on GCN+ should you miss the live action.

Watch Giro di Lombardia live stream for FREE in Italy

Full coverage of the Giro di Lombardia will be available to viewers in Italy for free via national broadcaster RAI and its online streaming service RAIPlay.

Live streaming of the race in full will be aired on the channel so you don't have to miss a second of the racing action.

If you're abroad, meanwhile, you can download and install a VPN so you don't miss out – more on that below.

Watch Giro di Lombardia live stream from anywhere on the planet

If you’re away from home for the 2023 Giro di Lombardia, you might have a problem accessing your regular streaming service because of geo-blocking restrictions. Thankfully, there’s an easy solution.

If you’re not in the country for the Giro di Lombardia, live streaming the race is still an option – all you have to do is download and install a VPN and use a location inside the United Kingdom to watch the broadcast live as if you were back home. 

Setting up a VPN is simple – just download, install, open the app and select your location. 

Try out ExpressVPN for its speed, security and simplicity to use. It is also compatible with a range of devices and streaming services (e.g. Amazon Fire TV Stick, Apple TV, Xbox, PS4, etc.), giving you the option to watch wherever you want.

A VPN is a piece of software which offers both online privacy and the ability to change your IP address, meaning that you can access on-demand content or live TV like you would back at home while in another country. There are other great options out there, of course, and plenty of free VPNs but our sister site TechRadar recommends the paid-for ExpressVPN, which it consistently rates as the best VPN provider. ExpressVPN also gives you the added benefit of a 30-day money-back guarantee and three months free with a yearly plan.

Watch Giro di Lombardia 2023 live stream in US, Canada and Australia

The 2023 Giro di Lombardia will be live streamed in the USA as well as in Canada via GCN+.

A subscription to the network will cost $8.99 per month or $49.99 per year in the USA and $11.99 / $59.99 in Canada.

Full live coverage from start to finish will be available, meaning you don't have to miss a second of the action, while highlights and full race replays will be available after the race has ended.

Australian viewers, meanwhile, can follow the action on GCN+. The service costs $15.99 (AUD) per month or $64.99 (AUD) per year.

Disclaimer

We recommend VPN services in the context of legal recreational uses. For example

1. Accessing a service from another country (subject to the terms and conditions of that service) 2. Protecting your online security and strengthening your online privacy when abroad

We do not support or condone the illegal or malicious use of VPN services. 

Consuming pirated content that is paid-for is neither endorsed nor approved by Future Publishing. 

The 2023 Road Cycling World Championships are part of the biggest cycling event ever as one of 13 World Championship events rolled into one festival of cycling in Glasgow and around Scotland. You can follow the action on GCN+ and Eurosport (via Discovery Plus) in the UK, FloBikes in the US, and for free on BBC iPlayer in the UK and SBS On Demand in Australia, so make sure you know how to watch for free with a VPN from anywhere.

The road events headline both weekends of the championships through the men's and women's elite road races. Road racing continued in Stirling on August 11 in the men's junior and elite time trials. We're into the penultimate day of road action today before the road events finish with the women's elite road race on 13 August. Glasgow and Stirling host the finishes for all the road events and will be the arena for some of cycling's biggest names. Belgium's Remco Evenpoel was the star of the day, adding the men's elite ITT world title to his road race world title from 2022. He became the first Belgian and youngest-ever winner of the ITT rainbow jersey at just 23 years of age. Filippo Ganna finished second with Great Britain's Josh Tarling rounding out the podium in what was an incredible performance at just 19 years old. In the junior race, Oscar Chamberlain took the win for Australia ahead of GB's Ben Wiggins. With the huge women's road race still to come, look out for big names in Demi Vollering, Lotte Kopecky and Lorena Wiebes to take the spotlight.

Racing on the road continues today and returns to Glasgow in the u23 men's road race the championships come to a close at the weekend. The women's road race is the most prominent remaining race and will take place on the final Sunday of the World Championships. Scroll down to the end of the article for a summary of the timings for each of the medal events. 

Road cycling is only one part of the Cycling World Championships 2023, and it will bring the best the sport has to offer to the roads across seven days of exciting racing. Luckily, with free-to-air options available in the UK and Australia, it is easy to watch. Below we explain everything you need to know to watch a Road Cycling World Championships live stream this year.

Watch Road Cycling World Championships live stream in the UK – for free

You can watch a Road Cycling World Championships live stream for free on BBC iPlayer in the UK.

Road Cycling World Championships live streams will also be available in the UK courtesy of GCN+ and Eurosport (via Discovery+).

Access to GCN+ costs £39.99 a year, or £6.99 per month. Alternatively, for Discovery+ and Eurosport coverage, the Entertainment and Sports pass is available for £59.99 a year, or £6.99 per month. 

If you're abroad, meanwhile, you can download and install a VPN to watch your streaming service wherever you are – more on that below.

Watch Road Cycling World Championships live stream from anywhere on the planet

If you’re away from home for the 2023 Road Cycling World Championships, you might have a problem accessing your regular streaming service because of geo-blocking restrictions. Thankfully, there’s an easy solution.

If you’re not in the country for the Road Cycling World Championships, live streaming the events is still an option – all you have to do is download and install a VPN and use a location inside the United Kingdom to watch the broadcast live as if you were back home. 

Setting up a VPN is simple – just download, install, open the app and select your location. 

Try out Express VPN for its speed, security and simplicity to use. It is also compatible with a range of devices and streaming services (e.g. Amazon Fire TV Stick, Apple TV, Xbox, PS4, etc.), giving you the option to watch wherever you want.

A VPN is a piece of software which offers both online privacy and ability to change your IP address, meaning that you can access on-demand content or live TV like you would back at home while in another country. There are other great options out there, of course, and plenty of free VPNs but our sister site TechRadar recommends the paid-for ExpressVPN, which it consistently rates as the best VPN provider. 

There are other great options out there, of course, but Express VPN gives you the added benefit of a 30-day money back guarantee and three months free with a yearly plan.

Watch Road Cycling World Championships live stream in the US and Canada

In the US you can watch a Road Cycling World Championship live stream through FloBikes. A subscription to the service will cost you $149.99 per year. 

Canadian cycling fans also have the option of watching a Road Cycling World Championshps live stream on FloBikes. An annual subscription costs $150 (CAD).

Watch Road Cycling World Championships live stream in Australia – for free

Australian viewers can follow Road Cycling World Championships action for free, as SBS and SBS On Demand will show the events live . 

SBS will be showing the road cycling between 5-13 August.

Medal events timetable

Disclaimer

We recommend VPN services in the context of legal recreational uses. For example

1. Accessing a service from another country (subject to the terms and conditions of that service) 2. Protecting your online security and strengthening your online privacy when abroad

We do not support or condone the illegal or malicious use of VPN services. 

Consuming pirated content that is paid-for is neither endorsed nor approved by Future Publishing. 

The 2023 MTB World Championships are part of the biggest cycling event ever as one of 13 World Championship events rolled into one festival of cycling across Scotland. You can follow the action on GCN+ and Eurosport (via Discovery Plus) in the UK, FloBikes in the US, and for free on BBC iPlayer in the UK and SBS On Demand in Australia, so make sure you know how to watch for free with a VPN from anywhere.

The MTB events continued on August 11 with the u23 XCO races. The action finishes on August 12, with the elite Cross-Country Olympic races closing out an incredible MTB World Championships. Look out for Nino Schurter, who is looking for XCO title no.11 at worlds with Tom Pidcock and Mathieu Van der Poel among those in his way, while Puck Pieterse will lead a stacked women's XCO field alongside Pauline Ferrand-Prévot in one of the highlight MTB races of the year. 

Great Britain claimed a huge win in the u23 men's race through Charlie Aldridge at home. He finished 13 seconds ahead of France's Adrien Boichis after over an hour of tough racing in Glentress Forest. New Zealand took victory in the women's u23 race through Samara Maxwell by a huge 1:01 margin in front of Ginia Caluori in second with her Swiss compatriot, Ronja Blochlinger, rounding out the podium. The biggest stars in the sport will now come to the fore in the elite XCO races that close out the MTB racing. Today's action should be thrilling from start to finish in both the men's and women's races so it won't be one to miss. Scroll down to the end of the article for a summary of dates for each medal event.

MTB is only one part of the Cycling World Championships 2023, and it has already brought some of the best the sport has to offer to Nevis Range with Glentress Forest ready to host the XC action. Luckily, with free-to-air options available in the UK and Australia, it is easy to watch. Below we explain everything you need to know to watch a MTB World Championships live stream this year.

Watch MTB World Championships live stream in the UK – for free

You can watch a MTB World Championships live stream for free on BBC iPlayer in the UK.

MTB World Championships live streams will also be available in the UK courtesy of GCN+ and Eurosport (via Discovery+).

Access to GCN+ costs £39.99 a year, or £6.99 per month. Alternatively, for Discovery+ and Eurosport coverage, the Entertainment and Sports pass is available for £59.99 a year, or £6.99 per month. 

If you're abroad, meanwhile, you can download and install a VPN to watch your streaming service wherever you are – more on that below.

Watch MTB World Championships live stream from anywhere on the planet

If you’re away from home for the 2023 MTB World Championships, you might have a problem accessing your regular streaming service because of geo-blocking restrictions. Thankfully, there’s an easy solution.

If you’re not in the country for the MTB World Championships, live streaming the events is still an option – all you have to do is download and install a VPN and use a location inside the United Kingdom to watch the broadcast live as if you were back home. 

Setting up a VPN is simple – just download, install, open the app and select your location. 

Try out Express VPN for its speed, security and simplicity to use. It is also compatible with a range of devices and streaming services (e.g. Amazon Fire TV Stick, Apple TV, Xbox, PS4, etc.), giving you the option to watch wherever you want.

A VPN is a piece of software which offers both online privacy and ability to change your IP address, meaning that you can access on-demand content or live TV like you would back at home while in another country. There are other great options out there, of course, and plenty of free VPNs but our sister site TechRadar recommends the paid-for ExpressVPN, which it consistently rates as the best VPN provider. 

There are other great options out there, of course, but Express VPN gives you the added benefit of a 30-day money back guarantee and three months free with a yearly plan.

Watch MTB World Championships live stream in the US and Canada

In the US you can watch a MTB World Championship live stream through FloBikes. A subscription to the service will cost you $149.99 per year. 

Canadian cycling fans also have the option of watching a MTB World Championshps live stream on FloBikes. An annual subscription costs $150 (CAD).

Watch MTB World Championships live stream in Australia – for free

Australian viewers can follow MTB World Championships action for free, as SBS and SBS On Demand will show the events live. 

SBS will be showing the MTB races between 4-12 August.

Medal events timetable

Disclaimer

We recommend VPN services in the context of legal recreational uses. For example

1. Accessing a service from another country (subject to the terms and conditions of that service) 2. Protecting your online security and strengthening your online privacy when abroad

We do not support or condone the illegal or malicious use of VPN services. 

Consuming pirated content that is paid-for is neither endorsed nor approved by Future Publishing. 

The 2023 Track Cycling World Championships kicked off the biggest cycling event ever as one of 13 World Championship events rolled into one festival of cycling in Glasgow and around Scotland. You can follow the action on GCN+ and Eurosport (via Discovery Plus) in the UK, FloBikes in the US, and for free on BBC iPlayer in the UK and SBS On Demand in Australia, so make sure you know how to watch for free with a VPN from anywhere.

The track cycling events continued on August 8 at the Sir Chris Hoy Velodrome in Glasgow, with the men's madison, men's 1km time trial and women's points race taking the spotlight on another incredible evening of racing. In the tension-building endurance events and the explosive sprints, the best track racers have begun their pursuit of gold medals and rainbow jerseys. Huge international names in Harrie Lavreysen, Emma Hinze and Filippo Ganna have featured on the track already alongside British stars such as Katie Archibald and Elinor Barker. 

The highlight of the evening on day 6 was the men's madison which closed proceedings at the velodrome and wasn't decided until the final of 20 sprint laps. The Dutch duo of Jan-Willem van Schip and Yoeri Havik came out on top of a stacked field, with their four-point haul in that final sprint giving them enough of a buffer to hold off the British duo that gained six points and the New Zealand team that gained ten. The Dutch finished on 37 points, two ahead of GB and three of NZ. This was the second gold medal win of the evening for the Netherlands after Jeffrey Hoogland retained his 1km time trial world title for the third time in a row with a powerful performance. In the women's points race we saw Lotte Kopecky once again highlight her incredible form at the end of this 2023 season. She won by eight points ahead of Georgia Baker and will turn her focus to tonight's Omnium and Sunday's elite road race, both of which she will be the favourite for. Day 7's evening session promises the last four rainbow jerseys, with the men's keirin and points race set to be decided alongside the women's omnium and individual sprint, so it won't be one to miss out on. Scroll down to the end of the article for a summary of the timings for each of the medal events. 

Track cycling is only one part of the Cycling World Championships 2023, and it has already brought the best the sport has to offer to the Velodrome with one day remaining. Luckily, with free-to-air options available in the UK and Australia, it is easy to watch. Below we explain everything you need to know to watch a Track Cycling World Championships live stream this year.

Watch Track Cycling World Championships live stream in the UK – for free

You can watch a Track Cycling World Championships live stream for free on BBC iPlayer in the UK.

Track Cycling World Championships live streams will also be available in the UK courtesy of GCN+ and Eurosport (via Discovery+).

Access to GCN+ costs £39.99 a year, or £6.99 per month. Alternatively, for Discovery+ and Eurosport coverage, the Entertainment and Sports pass is available for £59.99 a year, or £6.99 per month. 

If you're abroad, meanwhile, you can download and install a VPN to watch your streaming service wherever you are – more on that below.

Watch Track Cycling World Championships live stream from anywhere on the planet

If you’re away from home for the 2023 Track Cycling World Championships, you might have a problem accessing your regular streaming service because of geo-blocking restrictions. Thankfully, there’s an easy solution.

If you’re not in the country for the Track Cycling World Championships, live streaming the events is still an option – all you have to do is download and install a VPN and use a location inside the United Kingdom to watch the broadcast live as if you were back home. 

Setting up a VPN is simple – just download, install, open the app and select your location. 

Try out Express VPN for its speed, security and simplicity to use. It is also compatible with a range of devices and streaming services (e.g. Amazon Fire TV Stick, Apple TV, Xbox, PS4, etc.), giving you the option to watch wherever you want.

A VPN is a piece of software which offers both online privacy and ability to change your IP address, meaning that you can access on-demand content or live TV like you would back at home while in another country. There are other great options out there, of course, and plenty of free VPNs but our sister site TechRadar recommends the paid-for ExpressVPN, which it consistently rates as the best VPN provider. 

There are other great options out there, of course, but Express VPN gives you the added benefit of a 30-day money back guarantee and three months free with a yearly plan.

Watch Track Cycling World Championships live stream in the US and Canada

In the US you can watch a Track Cycling World Championship live stream through FloBikes. A subscription to the service will cost you $149.99 per year. 

Canadian cycling fans also have the option of watching a Track Cycling World Championshps live stream on FloBikes. An annual subscription costs $150 (CAD).

Watch Track Cycling World Championships live stream in Australia – for free

Australian viewers can follow Track Cycling World Championships action for free, as SBS and SBS On Demand will show the events live . 

SBS will be showing the track cycling between 4-10 August.

Medal events timetable

Disclaimer

We recommend VPN services in the context of legal recreational uses. For example

1. Accessing a service from another country (subject to the terms and conditions of that service) 2. Protecting your online security and strengthening your online privacy when abroad

We do not support or condone the illegal or malicious use of VPN services. 

Consuming pirated content that is paid-for is neither endorsed nor approved by Future Publishing. 

The 2023 Cycling World Championships is the biggest cycling event ever. It's 13 World Championship events rolled into one festival of cycling, across seven disciplines including road, track and mountain bike. You can follow the action on GCN+ and Eurosport (via Discovery Plus) in the UK, FloBikes in the US, or for free on BBC iPlayer in the UK and SBS On Demand in Australia, so make sure you know how to watch for free with a VPN from anywhere.

The action started on August 3 and runs until the 13th throughout Scotland, with Glasgow as the epicentre. Day nine saw the continuation of thrilling action on the road and in Glentress forest. Remco Evenepoel took the win in the men's elite individual time trial as the highlight of the day in front of packed crowds that lined the road up to Stirling Castle. Joining him on the podium was young British talent, Josh Tarling, who put in a wonderful bronze medal-winning performance at just 19. Charlie Aldridge was the home star at Glentress Forest, taking a huge win in the u23 men's XCO race for Great Britain, with New Zealand's Samara Maxwell winning the women's u23 XCO world title. The first rainbow jerseys were handed out in indoor cycling to the German duo of Helen Vordermeier and Selina Marquardt in the artistic cycling women's pair event. All disciplines have now begun at these 'super worlds' with the final weekend just getting started. All the biggest names from cycling's global scene will be present from Tadej Pogačar and Demi Vollering on the road to Tom Pidcock and Pauline Ferrand-Prevot in the mountain biking.  

Headline events remaining include the women's elite road race in Glasgow on the final day of the championships, the BMX races and the mountain bike cross-country Olympic races in Glentress Forest. Day ten includes more road action in the men's u23 road race, the elite XCO MTB races and more action in both the BMX racing, indoor cycling and trials. Scroll down to the end of the article for a summary of when each discipline is taking place.

Cycling's biggest-ever event is a must-see and has brought the best the sport has to offer to Scotland over eleven days, and with free-to-air options available in the UK and Australia, it will be easy to watch. Below we explain everything you need to know to watch a Cycling World Championships live stream in 2023.

Watch Cycling World Championships live stream in the UK – for free

You can watch a Cycling World Championships live stream for free on BBC iPlayer in the UK.

Cycling World Championships live streams will also be available in the UK courtesy of GCN+ and Eurosport (via Discovery+).

Access to GCN+ costs £39.99 a year, or £6.99 per month. Alternatively, for Discovery+ and Eurosport coverage, the Entertainment and Sports pass is available for £59.99 a year, or £6.99 per month. 

If you're abroad, meanwhile, you can download and install a VPN – more on that below.

Watch Cycling World Championships live stream from anywhere on the planet

If you’re away from home for the 2023 Cycling World Championships, you might have a problem accessing your regular streaming service because of geo-blocking restrictions. Thankfully, there’s an easy solution.

If you’re not in the country for the Cycling World Championship, live streaming the events is still an option – all you have to do is download and install a VPN and use a location inside the United Kingdom to watch the broadcast live as if you were back home. 

Setting up a VPN is simple – just download, install, open the app and select your location. 

Try out Express VPN for its speed, security and simplicity to use. It is also compatible with a range of devices and streaming services (e.g. Amazon Fire TV Stick, Apple TV, Xbox, PS4, etc.), giving you the option to watch wherever you want.

A VPN is a piece of software which offers both online privacy and ability to change your IP address, meaning that you can access on-demand content or live TV like you would back at home while in another country. There are other great options out there, of course, and plenty of free VPNs but our sister site TechRadar recommends the paid-for ExpressVPN, which it consistently rates as the best VPN provider. 

There are other great options out there, of course, but Express VPN gives you the added benefit of a 30-day money back guarantee and three months free with a yearly plan.

Watch Cycling World Championships live stream in the US and Canada

In the US you can watch a Cycling World Championship live stream through FloBikes. A subscription to the service will cost you $149.99 per year. 

Canadian cycling fans also have the option of watching a Cycling World Championshps live stream on FloBikes. An annual subscription costs $150 (CAD).

Watch Cycling World Championships live stream in Australia – for free

Australian viewers can follow Cycling World Championship action for free, as SBS and SBS On Demand will show the events live . 

SBS will be showing the road cycling, track cycling, mountain biking and BMX races between 4-13 August.

Events timetable

Disclaimer

We recommend VPN services in the context of legal recreational uses. For example

1. Accessing a service from another country (subject to the terms and conditions of that service) 2. Protecting your online security and strengthening your online privacy when abroad

We do not support or condone the illegal or malicious use of VPN services. 

Consuming pirated content that is paid-for is neither endorsed nor approved by Future Publishing. 

The 2023 edition of the Clásica San Sebastián is shaping up to be as exciting as ever. Fortunately the weather is set fair, with highs of around 26 °C, light winds and little to no rain forecast. If you don’t want to miss any of the action you’ll need to watch a Clásica San Sebastián live stream. You can follow the race on GCN+ and Discovery+ in the UK, and GCN+ and FloBikes in the US, with free-to-air options in Italy, Spain and Belgium, so make sure you know how to watch with a VPN for free from anywhere.

The hilly one-day race, which first took place in 1981, will see the men’s peloton return to the Basque country less than a month after the region hosted the Grand Depart at this year’s Tour de France.

As a rule, the Clásica San Sebastián tends to favour climbers and puncheurs, with recent winners including Julian Alaphilippe, Michał Kwiatkowski, Neilson Powless and Remco Evenepeol. EF Education’s Powless is riding this year as are both Alaphilippe and Evenepoel, offering Soudal-Quickstep an interesting 1-2 punch combination. Evenpoel, who won last year and in 2019, will be looking to join Spain’s Marino Lejarreta as the only three-time winners of the race. Given his recent history in the race he’ll likely start as favourite. 

Other riders who could well be in contention include Simon Yates, fresh off an impressive fourth place finish at Le Tour, Tiesj Benoot, who finished third in the 2022 edition, Michael Woods, who picked up a win on stage nine of this year’s Tour de France and Felix Gall, who also impressed at the TdF. Expect Basque riders to feature prominently too, with the likes of Pello Bilbao, Mikel Landa, Gorka Izagirre and Alex Aranburu all racing. As for an outside bet? How about the 2016 winner Bauke Mollema. The 36-year-old will be riding the race for the twelfth time and will hoping to make his experience count.

This year’s 230km route takes in one more climb than last year’s parcours, making for a total of seven categorized climbs. These include the Cat 1 Erlatz (4km at 10.4%) and Jalzkibel (6.9km at 6.1%). It all adds up to an unrelenting  race profile profile that will surely take no prisoners and Clásica San Sebastián live streams are the best place to watch it all unfold. There are several services broadcasting Clásica San Sebastián live streams around the world. Below we explain everything you need to know about keeping up with the race in 2023.

Watch Clásica San Sebastián live stream in the UK

Clásica San Sebastián live streams will available in the UK courtesy of GCN+ and Discovery+ (the home of Eurosport).

Access to GCN+ costs £39.99 a year, or £6.99 per month. Alternatively, for Discovery+ and Eurosport coverage, the Entertainment and Sports pass is available for £59.99 a year, or £6.99 per month. 

If you're abroad, meanwhile, you can download and install a VPN – more on that below.

Watch Clásica San Sebastián live stream from anywhere on the planet

If you’re away from home for the 2023 Clásica San Sebastián, you might have a problem accessing your regular streaming service because of geo-blocking restrictions. Thankfully, there’s an easy solution.

If you’re not in the country for the Clásica San Sebastián, live streaming the race is still an option – all you have to do is download and install a VPN and use a location inside the United Kingdom to watch the broadcast live as if you were back home. 

Setting up a VPN is simple – just download, install, open the app and select your location. 

Try out Express VPN for its speed, security and simplicity to use. It is also compatible with a range of devices and streaming services (e.g. Amazon Fire TV Stick, Apple TV, Xbox, PS4, etc.), giving you the option to watch wherever you want.

A VPN is a piece of software which offers both online privacy and ability to change your IP address, meaning that you can access on-demand content or live TV like you would back at home while in another country. There are other great options out there, of course, and plenty of free VPNs but our sister site TechRadar recommends the paid-for ExpressVPN, which it consistently rates as the best VPN provider. 

There are other great options out there, of course, but Express VPN gives you the added benefit of a 30-day money back guarantee and three months free with a yearly plan.

Watch Clásica San Sebastián live stream free in Belgium, Italy and Spain

Lucky viewers in Belgium, Italy and Spain have the opportunity to watch a Clásica San Sebastián live stream FOR FREE. If you tune into VRT in Belgium, RAI Play in Italy and RTVE in Spain. 

Watch Clásica San Sebastián 2023 live stream in US, Canada and Australia

In the US you have a couple of Clásica San Sebastián live stream options, as the race is available on both GCN+ and FloBikes.

A subscription to GCN+ costs $8.99 per month or $49.99 per year, while a year of FloBikes will cost you $149.99. 

Canadian cycling fans also have the option of watching Clásica San Sebastián live stream on FloBikes. An annual subscription costs $150 (CAD).

Australian viewers, meanwhile, can follow the action on GCN+. The service costs $15.99 (AUD) per month or $64.99 per year.

Disclaimer

We recommend VPN services in the context of legal recreational uses. For example

1. Accessing a service from another country (subject to the terms and conditions of that service) 2. Protecting your online security and strengthening your online privacy when abroad

We do not support or condone the illegal or malicious use of VPN services. 

Consuming pirated content that is paid-for is neither endorsed nor approved by Future Publishing. 

If you’re thinking about riding gravel but not ready to buy another bike, with just a few part swaps you can use your road bike to confidently ride gravel. While it’s possible to ride a road bike with robust tires on hard-pack dirt and fine gravel, you’ll likely have more fun and have better control on loose surfaces with a more gravel-oriented setup. With some strategic part swaps and component conversions, you can even set up a bike for use on both road and gravel — a true All-Road bike. 

Gravel tires

One of the smartest and easiest part swaps to make your road bike into a gravel bike are wrapping your wheels in gravel tires. If you’ve rim brakes, tire options may be limited by the amount of space between the top of the tire and the inside of the brake caliper, and/or the gap between the tire and the seat tube. Check with the frame manufacturer about tire size recommendations, but you should anticipate tires that are less than 28mm if you’ve rim brakes.

Those with disc brake equipped bikes will have many more tire options to choose from since there are no limiting rim brake calipers (you’ll still need to check for tire clearance behind the seat tube). Disc brake rims with tubeless tires can keep you rolling even after a puncture, which may be more likely on unpaved surfaces. Like those converting rim-brake bikes to gravel bikes, check with the frame manufacturer regarding tire clearance.

If you’re already using disc brakes and riding wheels with ample frame clearance, look for tires that offer additional grip for cornering and also offer a smooth center tread for rolling on paved surfaces. Tires like the Schwalbe G-One RS (pictured) are excellent for mixed use riding.

| Read More: Best gravel bike tires of 2023

If you plan to ride gravel, but also want to roll fast with groups on the road, an option is getting a set of dedicated gravel wheels with gravel tires, and swapping to a road setup when riding on pavement. While not the most budget-conscious option, it is a practical one. Another option for those riding 700c road wheels with disc brake rotors is to buy a set of 650b wheels and mount gravel tires. The smaller rims will allow an additional 10mm of tire clearance behind the seat tube. Make sure to check for tire clearance between the chainstays.

Gravel Gearing

Swapping road cycling gearing for gravel gearing will allow you to keep your pedal stroke smooth and efficient, especially when ascending off-road. If you’re on a 1x-drivetrain setup, a chainring swap is a relatively simple upgrade; you’ll probably want a slightly smaller ring for riding gravel than the road. Make sure to match the chainring bolt pattern and size/spacing if you plan to make this swap. Using a wide-range cassette will allow you to spin your legs when you need to, but also turn a large gear when riding on smooth surfaces.

If you plan to swap from a 2x-chainring setup to a 1x-chainring setup, also consider mounting a rear derailleur with a clutch,to manage chain slap, a chainring with a narrow-wide tooth profile to reduce the likelihood of chain drop. A chainwatcher for a 1x setup will further protect against chain drop.

When retrofitting your drivetrain, check out gravel-specific groups like SRAM XPLR, Shimano GRX, or Campagnolo Ekar with clutch-enabled rear derailleurs that minimize chain-slap, as well as wide-range gearing.

If you’re riding a traditional chainring setup, go with compact gearing (34/50) in front matched with a climbing cassette (11-34). Moving to smaller chainrings and larger cassettes may necessitate adjusting your derailleurs.

Gravel pedals

While you can use road pedals on a gravel bike, a swap to gravel or mountain bike pedals will allow clipping into the pedal on either top or bottom, which is easier to do when unclipping in and out on tricky surfaces. Also, off-road pedals shed dirt and mud more effectively than road pedals, which is a bonus when getting dirty while riding gravel.

Swapping pedals is easy to do with the correct tools. A 15mm pedal wrench with a long handle offers leverage to remove spindles stuck in crank arms. Some pedals may also accommodate an 8mm hex wrench on the inside end of the spindle. Use high quality tools and a steady hand to prevent stripping pedal spindle or crank arm threads. Don’t be parsimonious when applying grease to these parts, and there’s no need to over tighten pedals as the pedaling motion will keep pedals from backing out of the crank arms.

| Read more: Best gravel bike pedals

Gravel Shoes

Once you’ve swapped to gravel pedals, you’ll also need to swap to gravel shoes. Unlike ultra-stiff road cycling kicks, which are designed for maximum power transfer with minimal flex, gravel cycling shoes are easy to walk in, and like gravel tires, offer grip in slippery conditions. Gravel cycling shoes may also have additional protection on the toe. If you lube cleat mounting bolt threads before installing, you’ll have an easier time removing them the next time you swap cleats.

| Read more: Best gravel cycling shoes

Gravel Handlebars

Road cycling bars commonly come in widths from 38cm through 44cm at the hoods, and also have deeper drops with minimal flare and sweep. For comparison, dedicated gravel drop bars come in widths greater than 50cm, with short reach and nearly 30 degrees of flare with ample sweep (think elbows out and wrists rotated inward). This bar geometry offers more stability, leverage, and control on surfaces that shift beneath you.

If you’ve internally routed cables and/or hoses, swapping handlebars is not a simple or quick job, and not something easily swapped back and forth like wheelsets. Carbon handlebars, while more expensive, are available in more sizes and geometries than aluminum bars, and can also offer a smoother ride on rough surfaces.

Gravel bike accessories

When riding on gravel you're almost certain to send debris flying from under your tires. A good way to protect your frame from damage is with a protection kit. Some manufacturers, like Trek, even sell aftermarket bike frame protection kits that are cut to fit specifical bike models and sizes. If you don’t want to go this route, or want protection from spatter when riding in the mud or rain, fenders will protect you and your bike from flying road and debris.

If longer rides are in your sights, you might also consider adding a handlebar and/or frame bag to store snacks, tire tools and plugs (sometimes known as bacon strips), and a spare TPU inner tube for emergency roadside repairs that cannot be solved with a tire plug.

Do It Yourself

Your local bike shop can help you select the best products for your needs and intended use, as well as do the work to convert your road bike to a gravel bike. But there’s some satisfaction in doing the work yourself.

If you want to do the conversions at home, make sure to have all the components and tools needed to make the swap before you start the job; getting partially way through a parts-swap and realizing you don’t have everything could render your bike unrideable.

Don’t look for the cheapest bike parts; look for the best value. Buying cheap may mean buying twice, and you’ll wind up spending more money, and time, and experiencing more frustration.

Quick guide to watching Milan-San Remo 2023

Dates: Saturday 18 March

The first Monument of the season is available across a multitude of regions on various platforms. All you need to do is stock up on snacks and supplies, ready for the big watch.

AUS Stream on GCN+

UK Stream on GCN+, Eurosport and Discovery+, all £6.99 per month

US Stream on GCN+

Canada Stream on GCN+

Anywhere: Watch your local stream from anywhere with ExpressVPN

"The best just keeps getting better", said our sister site Tech Radar when it reviewed Express VPN in January, which is recommendation enough for us.

What to expect at Milan-San Remo 2023

Milan-San Remo is always a big moment in the cycling season – the long-awaited first Monument of the year.

This year’s edition of the race will be held on Saturday 18 March and some of the peloton's biggest hitters are already signed up – Wout Van Aert (Jumbo-Visma), Mathieu Van Der Poel (Alpecin-Deceuninck) and Tadej Pogačar (UAE Team Emirates), to name but three.

This year's 'Primavera' as it's known, is the longest one-day race on the calendar at 294km. While up until now it has always started from Milan, this year it begins just outside, in the town of Abbiategrasso. From there, it heads south to the Mediterranean coast before heading west to San Remo in the Liguria region. 

The riders will encounter the mid-sized climb of the Passo del Turchino mid-route, but the key phase of the race begins with around 20km to go, with the storied ascents of the Cipressa and the Poggio.

Matej Mohorič of Bahrain Victorious won last year with a daring attack on the final descent, holding on to win on the Via Roma - San Remo's famous finishing straight. He is set to defend his title this year, but could have serious competition from the likes of Van Der Poel, Van Aert and many more.

Read more

Latest Milan-San Remo news

Milan-San Remo route and startlist 2023

How to watch Milan-San Remo in the UK

In the UK, you'll be able to watch Milan-San Remo live on GCN+, Eurosport and Discovery+. On each of those platforms the coverage begins at 8.45am (UK time) and goes all the way through till 5.30pm.

If you don't already have one, you can subscribe to GCN+ for £6.99 per month, or pay an annual fee of £39.99.

New subscriptions to Eurosport are now with Discovery+ and cost either £6.99 per month, or £59.99 annually.

How to watch a Milan-San Remo livestream from outside your country

How to watch Milan-San Remo 2023 in the US

For cycling fans in the USA, this year's Milan-San Remo will be available to view both live and on demand through GCN+. In order to watch, you'll need to sign up to either a monthly or annual subscription. This will set you back $8.99 per month (plus taxes), or you can opt for an annual payment of $49.99 (plus taxes), which makes for a very attractive deal if you plan to watch all year round.

How to watch Milan-San Remo 2023 in Australia

As per US and British fans, Aussies can subscribe to GCN+ to tune in to Milan-San Remo. Subscriptions cost $15.99 AUD per month, or $64.99 per year. That's equivalent to $5.42 a month, so a significant saving.

What time is Milan-San Remo on?

In the UK Milan-San Remo streams on GCN+ from 8.45 to 17.00 local time and includes analysis in The Breakaway. Post-race highlights will also be available. Eurosport.co.uk and Discovery+ will be showing the race between those same times.

In December of 2020, I got in a life-changing car accident. I broke two bones in my foot, four ribs and, most notably, my patella. At the time, the agony was excruciating but it ended up filling me with a sense of gratefulness that I had never felt before. 

Even though at the time I couldn’t walk, I was overjoyed to be breathing. Every leaf on every tree was beautiful, and the time spent with my family while recovering is something I was thankful for every day.

Physical therapy was the most exciting part of my day and I attended sessions three times a week. I enjoyed the small progress I made and looked forward to working on the complicated path back to walking. We take it for granted every day, but walking is surprisingly complex. It takes a strong core, balanced hamstrings and quads, and ankle flexion. The doctors told me they didn’t know if I’d ever be able to properly walk again, let alone run. But I started running six months after the accident, and I slowly returned to cycling in 2022.

During rehab and the ever since, kettlebell training has been integral to regaining my strength and, ultimately, getting me back to walking, running and cycling. Kettlebells are also my favorite for exercise because the movements are simply more fun than regular dumbbell movements. These movements also come with a distinct set of physical benefits which any cyclist can benefit from.

To learn the best kettlebell exercises specifically for cyclists, I talked to cycling coach Art O’Connor of WUKAR training. O'Connor raced mountain bikes for the Sobe-Cannondale team in the 1990s and has coached the likes of Keegan Swenson and Sofia Gomez Villafañe. 

The biggest advantage of kettlebells for cyclists, in his opinion, is that they come in kilogram increments, meaning that you need to “master the weight before moving up. Mastering your progression is important and can take a lot of the guesswork out of your training.”

Here are four essential kettlebell exercises for cyclists and their benefits. These basic movements help create a more dynamic, fun weight room experience, build strength, prevent injury and help keep you cycling long into old age.

The best kettlebell exercises for cyclists

Kettlebell Dead Bug

Core strength is essential for injury prevention, stability and cycling efficiency. All kettlebell exercises require core strength because you’re operating under a load - the same as you are in cycling. It's the core that keeps the body stable and good core strength provides a solid platform to push from while on the bike.

Try the dead bug exercise without a kettlebell, to master the movement before adding the weight. This exercise requires you to hold a kettlebell above your face, so make sure you start with a small weight and don’t increase until you feel you’ve mastered the movement at that weight. 

• Lay on your back on a mat with your arms extended straight over your chest at a perpendicular angle. If you're doing this with a kettlebell,  you'll be holding the weight with both hands in front of you.
• Lower the right arm above your head while, at the same time you lower the opposite, the left, leg. Return to the starting position before repeating the movement on the other side. If you're doing this with a weight, lift your shoulder blades from the mat but hold your arms straight and steady while your lower and raise your legs, one at a time. 
• “Pull your toes towards yourself when lowering your legs," O'Connor advised. And. “keep tension in the trunk throughout”.
• Start with three sets of 20 reps (10 on each side).

Kettlebell Swing

The kettlebell swing is the granddaddy of all KB exercises. It works your posterior chain, and it’s essential to work your hamstrings and glutes in the quad-heavy sport of cycling. Balancing the strength in your muscle groups is one of the best things you can do for injury prevention and longevity.

While Kettlebell swings seem simple, the movement is a bit complex and good form trumps heavy weight. Here's how to achieve good form:

• Stand shoulder width apart with both hands on the kettlebell between your feet.
• Pick up the kettlebell as you would a deadlift. Keep a straight back and an engaged core. 
• Begin swinging the kettlebell in a straight line, stopping at your shoulders.
• It is a hip-hinge movement, where your power should be coming from your hips. It’s easy to accidentally turn a swing into KB squats. 
• Tuck your chin and gaze forward throughout the movement. Watch your form in a mirror if you can, or get one-on-one training to make sure you’re doing it right.
• Do three sets of 10 swings.

Cossack Squats

O'Connor likes to say that cyclists have “angry, short hip flexors," when compared to other athletes. Sitting all day to then go sit on your bike makes your hips tight and stiff. The cossack squat is aimed to relieve some of that by engaging your medial glutes, your main external rotators. If you see a buddy with knees pointing in towards their top tube, it’s a sure sign they have tight hip flexors, O'Connor commented. The Cossack Squats will help with that.

Try this exercise without kettlebells before using weight. 

• Hold the kettlebell close to your chest, with hands on each side of the weight.
• Place your feet wider than shoulder width. 
• With a straight back, shift your weight to one side and slowly bend the knee,  lowering into a single leg side squat. Stop once your hip is slightly lower than your knee. Throughout this movement, the other leg should be kept straight. As you lower, your non-engaged foot should be moving up on your heel until your toes are pointing almost straight up. 
• Push yourself back up, return to standing straight and repeat the movement on the other side. 
• Do three sets of 10 squats on each leg.

Bulgarian Split Squats

Bulgarian split squats are an exercise that everyone hates, but they love what they do for them. They are great for addressing single leg imbalances—an important concern for any cyclist—and building your glute strength. They’re a lot like lunges but hurt more.

• Stand 2 to 3 feet in front of a bench, facing away from the bench.
• Hold a kettlebell in each hand at your sides or one kettlebell with two hand sin front of you like in the Cossack Squat above. 
• Place the top of your back foot on top of the bench behind you. 
• Keep your shoulders and hips square, and your core engaged. 
• Lean slightly forward and lower down slowly until your front leg forms a right angle—into a forward lunge position.
• Push up through the front foot until you return to the starting position, and repeat on the other side.
• Do three sets of 10 squats on each leg.

Whether it's wanting to save your hard earned cash from paying out again, doing your bit for the environment or even keeping a favourite jersey looking its best, we all have motivation for wanting to make our cycling kit last longer. 

The good news is that there are some really quick, easy and cheap ways to add life to your bike and bike clothes. From routine maintenance to one off fixes, we've got lots of hints and tips for how to keep your gear going. 

1. Lengthen the life of your cycling clothes

Washing

Stop washing at high temperatures! 

Did you know that washing even sportswear at 86°F/ 30°C, using a regular domestic detergent will be effective enough to destroy or inactivate most viruses? Even on cycling short chamois'.

Washing clothes at low temperatures can not only save you money by using up to 40 per cent less energy, according to website loveyourclothes, but also damages most sportwear. 

Using hot water to do your bike kit laundry risks not only shrinking your cycling clothes, but it can also damage most synthetic fabrics found in sportswear, such as polyester and nylon, breaking down the fibres quicker than washing at a lower temperatures.

Research undertaken in 2010, demonstrated that a 30°C/ 86°F wash was enough to ensure that bacteria wasn't capable of spreading, and was even enough to kill bacteria. 

Elastic Interface, producers of cycling short chamois for a significant number cycling clothing brands, even sought independent third party verification from scientist Antonio Paoli M.D., B.Sc. Department of Biomedical Sciences, University of Padua, Italy.

Paoli concluded that "high temperature washing does not add benefit to the cyclist’s health and would damage fabrics and foams".

"Normal washing of clothes will reduce the risk of germs being transmitted" confirms the NHS. However it does also state that in cases where someone has an infectious illness "clothes should be washed at higher than normal temperatures and with a bleach-based product to minimise the transmission risk as much as possible".

Use a gentle liquid detergent, and never use fabric softer. 

"It's not only any water protection that will be impacted by some mainstream detergent that include fabric softeners" say's Andy Syme, Head of Product Design, Muc-Off, "it will also have a big impact on it's breathability. 

"Residue from the detergent builds up, get imbedded in the fabric and on the outside and stops your cycling gear being water-proof or water-resistant, and will make you very sweaty too. 

"I've heard of so many people chucking really expensive riding jackets because they think it has run its lifespan, when actually it just needs washing properly and re-proofing. 

If you have an underperforming piece of previously waterproof or resistance gear, you can read our page specifically on how to re-waterproof your cycling gear to make it perform like new.

"It's better to start with a specific cleaner from the start," Syme continues, "but if you have washed it a few times already, you can swap to a milder or specific sportswear detergent and wash out some of the residue build up bringing life back in to your kit". 

Be washing load savvy 

I'm totally guilty of wanting to get as much in one washing machine load as possible, so was pretty shocked to learn that washing my cycling kit with even jeans might be a false economy.  

Bike brand Liv say wash all your kit together, but not all your clothes.  "Bulky items like jeans and towels can destroy delicate fabrics" it warns.

Liv also recommend to "turn shorts inside out, as well as any screen printed jerseys. Mesh lingerie bags also come in handy for washing cycling gear". This should lengthen the quality of the image by reducing it's direct contact other garments, especially zips and Velcro. 

"If your cycling jersey has zippers, zip them up. Ensure any other fasteners are closed, as well. These could get snagged on delicate mesh and other materials in cycling clothes," says Liv. 

"Open Velcro will shred mesh and will pick the fabric of jerseys and shorts," Liv continues, before advising to "make sure Velcro is closed on gloves and other items or wash separately to be super safe".

Finally Liv remind us not to forget to check pockets: "Energy gels and other snacks can make a big mess in the wash and ruin clothing". 

Do you even need to wash your cycling kit?

Airing or spot washing your gear can dramatically make your cycling kit last longer. While its obvious to take a sponge to cycling shoes or helmet, consider doing the same to jackets or gilets. 

Getting caught in the rain on the last bit of your ride, layering up with gilet to keep out a chill on a fast decent or even getting mucky from rain spray while stowed in your back pocket are moments when external layers won't warrant a full wash cycle. 

While it's important to clean and take care of all your cycling gear, you could consider just wiping off any mud splats and then airing the item to dry before storing away. 

If your cycling garments did get sweaty however, you will need to give them a wash to remove moisture and bacteria that can cause kit to smell.  

Don't leave your used kit scrunched in the laundry bin.

"The key to preventing stinky kit, when perma-odour sets in, is to wash kit ASAP after it's been worn," says Irene Lucarelli, Marketing and CSR Specialist, of Elastic Interface, the cycling short chamois experts. 

"If you can't wash your kit instantly, hang it up to air first to prevent mould and mildew setting in, and then wash as soon as feasibly can," Lucarelli confirms.  

2. Lengthen the life of your cycling helmet

Even the best bike helmets can with a bit of TLC, and assuming no crash damage, give you a good few years of life with these simple tricks of the trade. 

Chris Smith, USA Lazer Marketing, Shimano North America gives us his top tips on helmet care:

1. Protect your helmet from UV deterioration by keeping it out of the sun and heat when not in use. Your car is the worst place to store your helmet!

2. Keep drops and bumps from affecting your helmet’s ability to protect you when needed. Store your helmet in a case or bag to keep it from damage during transportation. 

3. Sweaty and dirty straps makes for a gross helmet. No need for complicated cleaning, just dunk it under water to clean out the interior and rinse out the straps. Let it air dry overnight and it will be fresh for your ride the next day. 

4. Replacing padding is an easy way to refresh your helmet. Most helmets have accessory pad sets available to replace original worn out padding for a fraction of the price of a full helmet. 

He does caveat his list with an important reminder that "helmets do have a lifespan and you don’t want to outride your helmet’s ability to protect. Check your helmet regularly for compressed or cracked foam, cracked or separated polycarbonate outer layers and broken buckles. Replace your helmet once it’s no longer able to perform its job!"

3. Lengthen the life of your cycling shoes

Before we discuss the cleaning aspect, one of the best things you can do to prolong the life of your cycling shoes starts before their first ride. 

"Always apply copper anti-seize compound to your cleat bolt threads before attaching them to your shoes" says Muc-Off's Syme.  

"Pedals and cleats take a real hammering all year, but in winter they are a direct target for salt spray from roads. This gets in to both and soon start corroding and breaking them down, 

"Trying to remove a pair of worn cleats from cycling shoes will be impossible after a while, so just dab the smallest amount on each bolt before placing and your future self will thank you," Syme says. 

Rain, road crud, mud and dust can all impact negatively in the life span of even the best cycling shoes. Even tiniest of muck and dust partials will eroding material, closures and cleats over time, and impact on any water protection.

The good news is that a sponge and warm water alone will probably displace a lot of the offending material swiftly. However, even the best cycling shoes will get the occasional soaking, covered in road spray or mud from riding off the beaten track on a gravel bike.

Once your bike shoes are in this state, it's time to give them some proper TLC.

You need to give your shoes a thorough brush and then use a gentle cleaner on a damp surface say industry experts NikWax, before cleaning with a gentle wash.

NikWax say look for cleaners that are safe to use specifically on footwear, here there is a lot of cross over between bike shoes and hiking boots, and this will give your shoes a some water protection too.

Once you have cleaned your cycling shoes, it's worth applying an appropriate water protection product, depending on what your shoes are made from.

NikWax say it's best to do this while your shoes are still wet, and then always allow your shoes to dry naturally.

"Do not place next to direct heat," say the outdoor cleaning brand specialist, "it can cause soles to de-bond and leather to dry and crack.

"If you want to speed things up a bit, put newspaper or paper/cloth towels in your shoes to soak up excess moisture".

Once your shoes are dry, you can help them last longer still by investing in a pair of the best cycling overshoes. These won't totally prevent your bike shoes from getting wet, but will keep a lot of muck at bay and out of the closures. 

If you do find closures getting worn, the chances are you can just replace the parts rather than the whole shoe. 

Heal rubber pads, BOA ratchet spares, and even shoe repair kits that fill scrapes and scuffs are all available to buy.  

Lastly, stop walking around in your bike shoes! Keep all off bike use to a minimum. If you do need to get from bike to cafe or house, cover the cleats in protectors or better still take your shoes off.  

4. Lengthen the life of your bike

Pre-first ride

Like your cycling shoes, extending the life of your bike starts as soon as it's out the box. 

"Don't take it for granted that the bike manufacturer has used any form of assembly pastes," says Muc-Off's Syme. 

"Add copper anti-seize compound to the threads of bolts, especially places like pedals and water bottle bolts."

"If you have carbon seatposts or bars, add some carbon assembly paste, and then always use a torque tool to prevent over tightening and damaging parts," advises Syme.

A brand new bike will also have a brand new chain, which feel sicky. This is the residue from it's factory assembly.

There's mixed advice as to whether to leave on this factory grease or remove, but the newest thinking is that this will attract a lot of muck if it isn't cleaned off, contaminating the grease, which immediately sets to degrading the chain's lifespan.

If you aren't getting your bike put together by a professional bike mechanic, you can remove the chain yourself, and bath a couple of times with a gentle mineral cleaner, before drying and applying chain lube.

"Depending on what sort of riding you'll be doing, and mileage you'll be covering will dictate the lube you need," confirms Syme.

"Entry level lube will be cheaper, but you'll need to reapply more often, while top level race lube, such as ceramic or the Muc-Off Hydrodynamic Chain Lube, will cost a little more, but last for longer," Syme suggests.

Wash you bike, even when it's not been outside! 

"The number one way to extend the life of your bike is to clean it," says Martin Girdwood, Head Mechanic and owner of Velo-Tech.

"Seriously there are loads of biodegradable cleaning products out there. Spray down chain, cassette and derailleurs. Make sure you protect disc rotors for overspray. You can buy guards, but a piece of carboard over the axle is enough. 

"Leave on then clean off, dry and then re-lubricate. Spray any moving parts, like the deraileur, springs and pivots with a multi-use lubricant spray, something like GT85 or Muc-Off MO94. This helps disperse moisture, to prevent rust and corrosion, it also helps repel dirt too, so will make it easier to clean after your next ride."

"If you're soaked, cold and too tired after your ride, just spray your bike's chain and cassette with multi-use lube to displace water, and come back to it once you've had a hot shower and are warm. Don't leave it too long as it doesn't take long for a chain to start rusting.

"Regular bike servicing is really important too. It can spot the cheaper things like brake pads, chains and cables wearing out, and get them replaced, preventing you from having to shell out for more expensive items like new drivetrains.

"Winter bike services are more important. All main bearings take a hammering with water, salt and general grit, especially on off road bikes like gravel getting in and eroding moving parts.

"Don't be tempted to take aim at your bike with an jet wash though. Unless you have a bike specific one, like the Muc-Off one, it can be all to easy to end up flushing the grease out of any bearings and hastening their demise".

"Another good tip is if you are lucky enough to have a winter and summer bikes, get each serviced at the end of the season, before you put it away. This stops any water having time to do damage and it will be all ready to ride for when you need it."

You're not off the hook from bike washing if you are stopping at home for an indoor session. 

"Ideally get yourself an indoor training kit" Muc-Off's Syme tells me. "You need to make sure you spray your bike with an anti-bacterial and guard against sweat, which is really corrosive. 

"Its especially important on the stem cap bolts and leave it on to act as a barrier. It's especially vital if you are riding outside on the bike too, as that corrosion build up can eventually attack the integrity of the bolts - and you really don't want bolts snapping on a ride". 

5. Dos & Don'ts summary

Do

• Wash your bike and kit ASAP after a ride and re-lube the moving parts
• Use a gentle detergent, if it's kind to the environment it'll be kinder to your clothes
• Re-proof your waterproof and water resistant gear to make it perform like new
• Replace the part not the whole, especially when it comes to bike shoes
• Get your bike serviced, especially in winter 

Don't 

• Leave your damp used kit in the bottom of a wash pile/ kit bag. If you can't wash it immediately air dry it.
• Don't put your shoes or helmet next to direct heat, this can de-bond glues or dry out fabrics causing them to crack 
• Leave your bike mucky and wet after a ride. Spray with a multi-use lube, get warm and then clean it
• Don't jet wash moving parts on a bike, it will flood the bearings
• Assume you new bike is ready to ride. A little time spend applying the correct products at the start will lengthen the life of your bike