My first Northern Hemisphere Rapha Festive 500 was a disaster. It wasn’t so much the wet roads but the wind chill that wreaked havoc with my hands and feet - this was something I’d never experienced, having completed several Festive 500s in Cape Town. In fact, apart from some kamikaze drivers, the only elemental issue I ever faced in South Africa was the wind. It’s safe to say my first Freezing 500 was a shock to the system, forcing me to rethink the whole concept and devise a strategy to get through it without turning to Zwift.

There’s nothing wrong with attempting it on Zwift - especially if you live in a country where snow and severe temperatures mean completing it outside is dangerous. But if you live in the UK or northern Europe, there's no excuse not to ride it outside - all you need is some motivation and solid planning. While there's been plenty of Festive 500 backlash from some cyclists in recent years, with wasted family time and the idea of suffering over Christmas emerging as the leading issues, my wife and I have always completed the Rapha Festive 500 together.

Our love for the event stems from the challenge it posed when we first started cycling in 2013, and ever since then, it’s become a tradition for us - a pseudo training camp and something we look forward to every year, even living here in the UK.

The Festive 500 is not easy, even if you happen to live in the Southern Hemisphere, where the weather is warmer - it still requires commitment and thorough planning. This year marks my 10th Festive 500, and to help you complete your first Festive 500 outdoors, I’ve compiled a checklist of tips and tricks.

Plan your Festive 500 route - carefully

While 500km might sound daunting, if you do the maths, this translates to 62.5km every day for eight days, and that’s if you don’t take any rest days. I start every Festive 500 with the same mindset: a new route each day, split into two or three parts, with planned coffee breaks. I've found - especially when riding with others - that having small target goals helps break up the monotony and gives the group something to aim for, as it’s easier to process small chunks than one big ride with no stops.

Day one is always the ‘long day’ as I never ride on Christmas Day itself. By getting a chunk in on day one (usually between 100-120km), I can offset the balance to something still easily achievable. It’s also worth studying the long-term weather forecast and planning for all eventualities.

Thankfully, for the five Festive 500s I've completed in the UK, the weather has never really been truly foul - just cold and sometimes wet. I understand I'm due for a wet one at some point, but it very seldom rains on consecutive days in December in the Surrey Hills, and the rain is usually localised, so there’s always a good chance it's dry 10km down the road.

Top tip: Have a backup route for each day. If it’s raining and you’re not keen on starting the day, it’s worth doing a small loop to keep chipping away at the miles. As I mentioned before, heading north or south might enable you to bank some miles without getting wet or too cold.

Top tip: Plan a coffee stop or three. This helps with morale and gives the group motivation. Obviously this is more difficult on Christmas Day and Boxing Day, but there's always somewhere open.

Invest in some deep winter cycling clothing

Southern Hemisphere winter cycling clothing isn’t on the same level as what you will find here in the UK. When I first arrived in the UK in 2019, I did many a ride underdressed, and I suffered tremendously with cold ears, hands, and feet.

My first port of call was purchasing a pair of the best winter bib tights - this does not exist in South Africa. The closest you get to this is leg warmers, and even those are hard to find. Bib tights were a game-changer for me. Next up were a breathable base layer, one of the best winter cycling jackets, a headscarf, ear warmers, and deep winter cycling gloves.

While these additions have made a world of difference to on-bike comfort, as a very lean chap, I still run on the cold side, and my hands and feet still suffer. To counter this, I've invested in thicker socks and glove liners, which have helped.

Top tip: Always carry a packable rain jacket you can store in your pocket.

Ride it in a group or with friends

Of all my Festive 500s, I think I’ve only done one alone, and that was a pretty miserable one, to be honest. It was back in 2020, during Covid, and the Festive feeling was down across the board; most people were riding indoors or not at all. This was also the first year Rapha added a virtual option in which indoor miles on a smart indoor trainer counted toward the challenge, and it has been part of the F500 ever since.

While I’m not an advocate for using Zwift to complete the Festive 500 - the miles come quicker and have made it an easier exercise - I still appreciate riders staying active and achieving their goals, so I still encourage those who can’t attempt it outdoors for whatever reason.

The best thing about the Festive 500 is the season's festivity and riding with mates. As I mentioned before, it’s something I do with my wife, and we both enjoy the time together and the challenge of getting through it in the worst conditions imaginable. This year, we’re doing it with friends and riding it as a group, which is going to be real fun - I love this time of the year as there's no pressure to train for races. It’s just about enjoying the bike, talking rubbish, laughing, and attacking each other for the town sign sprint.

Not only does riding in a group help the miles tick by fairly quickly, you can share the load and work across the challenge.

Pro tip: Mudguards keep the vibes high and everybody clean when the roads are wet or muddy.

Make Christmas a rest day

Whether you’re a Christian or not, Christmas is one of the most special days of the year as it brings family together - the day should be spent with your loved ones. Of course, that could also mean a short ride with your partner or children, but I find it the ideal time in the challenge to take a day off the bike.

While adding a rest day will put extra mileage stress on the balance of the Festive 500, I always get a big one in on day one to ensure I keep the mileage ticking over - and by big I mean 100-120km. If you do manage to get in 120km on day one, you’ll need to cover 63km every day for the next six days.

Historically, I don’t keep to a regimental minimum daily mileage output but rather ensure my final day is an easy coffee ride, so I would suggest doing a few bigger ones to ensure day eight is short, easy, and fun - perhaps culminating in a mountain bike or gravel excursion.

Top tip: Make day one the biggest mileage day of the challenge so there's less pressure to finish the Festive 500 if you take a rest day.

Don’t ignore bike maintenance

Bike maintenance is a big one and something you shouldn’t ignore - especially over a wet Festive 500. During this time of year, roads will likely be gritted in preparation for possible snow and ice, and salt can corrode your bolts and spoke nipples.

I always recommend cleaning your bike, either with a hose or with a bicycle-specific Karcher or Muc-Off Pressure Washer, avoiding all bearings (wheels, bottom bracket, and headset), and applying Muc-Off Bike Protection or a water-repellent spray to these sensitive areas, then relubing your chain. Failure to do so can result in trouble down the line - worn chains and sprockets and a corroded BB and headset.

Pro tip: Hose your bike down immediately after your ride, lightly wash it, and lube your chain.

Be humble. Encourage

It’s easy to get overexcited and carried away with your progress. Some riders complete the entire Festive 500 challenge in a few days, while others prefer to spread it over the full eight days. It’s worth being sensitive to those around you and encouraging riders to keep chipping away - it’s all about building confidence and ensuring more people stay on bicycles.

The Festive 500 is as much about spending time with your mates and family on the bike as it is about overcoming the challenge. If someone is struggling, motivate them. If you encounter a rider with a puncture or mechanical issue, stop and offer assistance. The Festive 500 is not about your average speed and who finishes the fastest; it’s about enjoying the vibes that made you fall in love with the sport in the first place.

Pro tip: Carry a spare tube (or two) and some tools. Not only will this help prevent the Uber call of shame, but it will also equip you to help a cyclist in need of a roadside fix.

This article has been freshly updated as part of our 'New to Riding' week, running from March 10 to March 17, with a special focus on tips, tricks and inspiration for new riders.

At some point as a cyclist, a flat tyre is inevitable. It's always an inconvenience, but becomes more so if you don't have the means to fix it, and it may leave you stuck on the roadside, alone.

You can be well prepared to change an inner tube by carrying all the road cycling essentials you need and having the expertise to carry it out. Our guide below (alongside the video above) takes you through the steps involved in fixing a puncture and should give you the confidence to deal with one next time you hear the dreaded hiss. Remember, practice makes perfect so test your skills in the comfort of your own home before you set out.

Don't throw away your punctured inner tubes: we explain how to patch one and give it a new lease of life. And, although most people run inner tubes, we've included a little guidance on how to fix a puncture with a tubeless road tyre setup too.

How to fix a bike puncture

Make sure you have everything you need on every ride. Being an expert at mending a puncture is only worthwhile if you have all the right tools too.

• Tyre levers
• Two (or more!) spare inner tubes
• Patches/repair kit
• Some bits of old tyre to reinforce big holes
• A pump
• Spanner (if your bike uses wheel nuts)
• Multitool (not specifically for fixing a puncture unless your bike requires it, but a good multitool should be part of your ride essentials anyway)
• A mobile phone for when you're stranded (or need to do a quick Google)

Step 1: Remove the wheel from the frame

• If you have rear wheel flat, shift down to the smallest cog on the cassette and the smallest chainring on the front.
• On a rim brake setup, you'll need to open the brakes by lifting the lever to slacken the cable.
• For cantilever or V-brakes, squeeze the brakes together and pop the cable out of its housing.
• Release and unscrew the quick-release skewer until there's enough slack to remove the wheel, or if using thru-axles, unwind all the way and remove. (You may need a tool for some thru-axles — be sure to check in advance).
• Fixed wheel or commuter bikes may require a 15mm spanner to remove wheel nuts.
• Gently pull out the wheel. With the rear wheel, you can release tension by pulling back the rear derailleur.
• It's worth having a quick scan of the wheel at this point to see if you can find anything obvious that caused the flat. Remove if necessary and make a mental note of where it is related to the valve. Be careful not to rub the palm of your hand over the tyre as there could be a sharp object protruding.

Step 2: Deflate the tyre fully

• Remove the dust cap (the black cap over the valve), if there is one.
• Unscrew and remove the valve retaining nut, if there is one.
• If you have a Presta valve, unscrew the top nut and press in to fully deflate the tube.
• If you have a Schrader valve, simply press the pin in the valve to release remaining air.

Step 3: Loosen the tyre on one side using tyre levers

• Insert one tyre lever under the bead of the tyre (directly opposite the valve is best but anywhere will work) to start the process of lifting the tyre away from the rim.
• Hook this lever on a spoke to keep it in place and to leave your hands free.
• Insert the second tyre lever close to the first and gently try to slide it around the rim, lifting the tyre as you go.
• You'll get to a point where the tyre has been released enough and you can, fairly easily, run the lever around the entire rim to pop it off.

It's worth noting here that some tyres can be super tough to remove, and fit. And some tyre and wheel combinations even more so.

A set of strong tyre levers will help but remember, if you can't remove or fit a bike tyre at home without assistance, you won't be able to remove it on your own out on the bike in potentially bad weather. So practice at home, or swap them out for some that are easier to work with.

If in doubt, opt for a four-season tyre. This should be malleable enough to pop off the rim with a bit of encouragement, but will limit the risk of puncturing. By choosing the best puncture-proof cycling tyres, you'll save yourself a lot of hassle in the first place.

Step 4: Remove the inner tube and find the puncture

• Pull the inner tube out from the valve.
• Inspect the tube to find the cause of the puncture. If it's not obvious you can add some air and see where it escapes from. If you have no intention of repairing the tube there and then, you can skip this step but it can be a useful way of working out where in the tyre the puncture occurred, through cross referencing them.

Step 5: Check the tyre for debris

• Thoroughly inspect the tyre, inside and out.
• Remove the offending shard of glass, thorn or other object.
• This is an important step. If anything is left in the tyre, there is potential for another puncture down the road.
• If you can't find anything, it may be worth removing the tyre entirely, so you can turn it inside out.

Step 6: Replace the inner tube

• If you decide to repair the tube, or you don't have a spare on you, there's more on this below.
• Add a small amount of air to the new or repaired tube to give it some shape (it's easier to insert and prevents pinching).
• Replace one side of the tyre if you had to remove it completely. If your tyre is directional — it will have an arrow somewhere on the sidewall — be sure it's on correctly.
• Push the valve through the valve hole. You can screw on the valve retaining nut if you have one to hold the valve in place.
• Work around the tyre, tucking the inner tube into the space between the tyre and the rim.

Step 7: Refit the tyre

• Starting at the valve, grip the rim and push the tyre back on with your thumbs. Lift at the same time to prevent the tube getting pinched.
• Work around the rim, switching from one side to the other so you finish opposite the valve. Some tyres are trickier than others. If you get stuck, try letting a little air out, or resort to tyre levers with caution.
• Work around the wheel, pushing the tyre in slightly to check the tube hasn't been pinched and that there are no bulges.

Step 8: Inflate the tyre

• Pump up the tyre to your preferred pressure. Check our guide to the correct road bike tyre pressure if you are unsure.
• It's worth a quick visual inspection of the tyre when you get to about 30-40psi, just to check again that there are no bulges of the inner tube, and that it's not going to explode as you get to higher pressures.
• If your mini pump doesn't have a gauge, or you're using CO2, you'll have to make a rough guess of the pressures. It's worth having an idea of how your tyres feel to squeeze when they're fully inflated, before you leave on your ride. Pumps are not all created equal, so it's a good idea to do some research and pick the best mini pump possible.
• Put the wheel back on the bike, refit and tighten skewers and tighten the quick release on your brakes if necessary.
• Check the wheel is spinning freely.

How to patch a bicycle inner tube

Inner tubes can be quite expensive and they're easy to fix, so it's a good idea to mend them instead of simply replacing one and chucking the old rubber. Using a puncture repair kit is also better for the environment. To save time, carry an inner tube on rides for a quick swap, then take the damaged one home to fix another time.

Follow the steps below for easy bike inner tube repairs. Self-adhesive patches negate the glue faff, so if you have these then you can skip steps 4 and 5. These patches are also a great choice for roadside emergency repairs.

• Step 1: If the puncture is not obvious, pump up the inner tube to hear any air escaping, or run the inner tube past your lips to sense the escaping air. If you are still struggling to find the location, you can always submerge a re-inflated tube in a bucket or sink of water (or a puddle if you're out on the bike) and you should see the tell tale signs of bubbles where air is escaping.
• Step 2: Roughen the area around the hole with emery paper from your puncture repair kit.
• Step 3: Remove excess emery or tyre dust.
• Step 4: Apply enough glue to cover an area a little bigger than the repair patch that you’ll use.
• Step 5: Repeat glue application a couple of times, allowing the glue to dry in between.
• Step 6: Remove backing to a patch and stick over the hole.
• Step 7: Press down, working from the centre outwards.
• Step 8: When you're confident the patch is secured, carefully remove any further film attached to the patch.

How to fix a tubeless puncture?

Although a tubeless setup is not immune from the risks of a puncture, it does use sealant designed to fill in small holes. You may not even notice something sharp has got in your tyre, or you may hear a hiss and see some sealant on the tyre, but simply have to top up with some air.

Sometimes though, the hole is too big or you're just really unlucky, and sealant alone won't do the trick.

It's always worth carrying a spare inner tube, even when riding tubeless, so you can undertake the messy task of fitting it in an emergency.

The standard method for fixing a tubeless puncture is to plug it, but you may occasionally need to patch a hole (which would be done in the same way you would patch an inner tube).

First up, you'll need to make sure you're carrying:

• a Tubeless repair kit with plug tool and plugs
• a pump

Learn how to plug a hole in the steps below, so you can feel confident in your tubeless setup.

• Step 1: Find the puncture and remove the culprit (if your tyre is very soft, you can squeeze it behind the puncture to help push debris up and out).
• Step 2: Use a plug tool to enlarge the hole by inserting and twisting, but don't go crazy.
• Step 3: Fit the most appropriate size of tubeless plug to the forked plug tool by pushing the centre of the plug in between the forks and folding down the plug on either side.
• Step 4: Insert it into the hole, but not all the way through.
• Step 5: Twist the tool while slowly removing it, leaving the plug sticking out of the end of the hole.
• Step 6: Inflate the tyre and rotate the wheel so the hole is near the ground and the sealant can do its job.
• Step 7: If the plug ends stick out too far you can trim them, but they will wear down slightly as you ride.

FAQs

When you purchase a car, the manufacturer will typically provide maintenance recommendations based on mileage to ensure that it will keep performing safely and consistently over time. Vehicle owners can use these recommendations to decide for themselves whether to have this work done at a dealership or by an independent mechanic of their choosing. Scheduled or mileage-based maintenance prevents issues that could cause harm to passengers or those outside the vehicle.

Bicycles are far less complex than cars, but still require regular maintenance for optimal performance. It’s rare, however, for a bike manufacturer to provide a scheduled maintenance sequence the same way car makers do. Many shops offer a free one-time tune-up with a bike purchase, but after that, customers are left to their own devices to stay on top of service and maintenance, often without much information at their disposal to ascertain the bicycle’s needs.

Longtime riders may be familiar with the upkeep a bicycle requires, but for new and casual riders, there is a bit of a knowledge gap. A good shop will be able to help to inform and educate a customer, while a less scrupulous one could prey on their lack of expertise.

Because there are so many different kinds of riding people do, there are no single “one-size-fits-all” maintenance recommendations that will work for everyone. Everyone rides differently and how to maintain your bike will depend on your location, the type of bike you own, the amount of riding you do, the conditions in which you ride, and more. Thus, there’s a lot of possible variation in what each bike requires.

I’m not going to delve into the nuts and bolts of maintenance here—instead I’m going to offer up some tips for how you can better take care of your bike, without a strict maintenance schedule.

Step 1? Get to know your bike better.

1. Pay attention to your bicycle

You don’t need to know the name of every different bit on your bike, but you should know what a happy, healthy bike sounds like and be able to recognize when something is amiss. You also don’t need to be able to solve the problem when something is creaky or rattely—you can if you want to, but it’s fine to take it to a professional (see #5). Your job is to know your bicycle intimately. Look at it, take pictures of it, listen to it, you can even smell it if you want, the goal is to be familiar with it. Clean it regularly (see #2) and you will soon become acquainted with all of its nooks and crannies and learn which parts go where.

2. Wash your bike often (well, as often as is necessary…)

I don’t always keep my bikes as clean as I should, but it’s because I like to wash them all at once, and I have a few. My drivetrains are always spotless, however, thanks to the wonder of immersion wax and chain rotation, so I’m not too worried about a little road grit on the frame. Sometimes, a bike just needs a wipe-down after riding through a puddle, and sometimes, it requires a full tear-down and rebuild (like after a particularly muddy cyclocross race), but if your bikes are clean, then you can make sure nothing’s broken and easily monitor wear and tear.

3. Keep a maintenance log

This one is easy enough: find an old notebook or journal, or else create one digitally, and use it to keep track of the maintenance you’ve done. This is particularly useful for things like chain swaps, brake bleeds, tyre replacements and the like. Trust me, if you don’t write it down, you will forget when you last swapped cassettes and how many miles you've got on your chain.

Keeping notes becomes even more critical when you own multiple bikes. This allows you to refer back to previous maintenance and recognize patterns and potential chronic issues. I also highly recommend keeping a longer to-do list of bike tasks in your workshop, it could be in the same notebook or on a whiteboard on the wall, but writing things down is always worthwhile.

4. Strava can track your bike's mileage

If you aren’t accustomed to doing bike upkeep based on feel, then there are a few ways you can stay on top of it with digital tools. One of these is with calendar alerts: putting bike maintenance into your calendar system of choice offers a helpful reminder so you don’t end up with a catastrophic mechanical failure. You could put in an alert to check drivetrain wear once a month on Saturday, for instance, or to bleed your brakes (or swap brake cables) annually at the start of each year.

If you are a Strava user, you can use the platform to track mileage on individual bikes and even individual components. This can be done by going into “My Gear” in the “Settings” menu and then clicking on each bike listed. At the bottom of the page is a section titled “Components” where the software allows you to choose from a drop-down menu, add parts to each bike listed, and track mileage for each one separately.

5. Build a rapport with your local shop

Hopefully, you have a local bike shop where you live, and if you live somewhere with many shops to choose from, count yourself lucky! Stop in, say hello, and drop off cold seltzer waters on hot days. Most importantly, buy stuff from them. You want the mechanics at the shop to be a) happy to see you, and b) happy to help you out in a pinch. Thus, when you need one single calliper bolt the day before your big riding trip, you have a place to source it from. Even if you’re comfortable doing most of your maintenance at home, it’s still good to have a place for those times when you need an expensive tool to fix something or get too busy to finish a task. A good bike mechanic is worth their weight in gold.

Conclusion

Bike ownership doesn’t neccsarily require getting your hands dirty, but it’s fun to do from time to time. Some people are tinkerers and some aren’t. But if you want to really get to know your bike, then I recommend digging beneath the surface a little bit every now and again.

Everyone on a group ride will appreciate the person who has an extra tyre boot and knows how to use it. It may take years to get comfortable with working on your own bike, or you may decide it’s just not for you—that’s OK! But you still need to know enough to be able to bring it in for service before the wheels fall off. There’s nothing worse than riding with a friend and having them point out that annoying clicking noise that somehow escaped your notice.

It’s up to you to learn what your bike needs based on how and where you ride it. Always keep in mind that regular preventative maintenance is preferable to unscheduled catastrophic failure.

Trying to get faster is a goal for both the professional and amateur cyclist alike. WorldTour teams leave few stones unturned in the pursuit of speed, spending huge sums of money on a series of small details with the hope that it all adds up to victory.

You too can adopt the same marginal gains approach but without breaking the bank. That’s right. While it might be tempting to throw money at the problem to get more aero, there are plenty of things you can do to your setup to go faster that won't cost you a penny.

From riding position to minor mechanical adjustments, here are eight easy ways to gain free speed.

1. Get more ‘aero’ by adjusting your position

If you’ve already begun your journey to get faster then it’s likely you’ll have considered aerodynamics. It’s the most significant speed upgrade that you can make and one that doesn’t have to cost the earth. 

Of course, you can buy a more aerodynamic bike frame and aero racing wheels, but those upgrades will cost you thousands of pounds.  And, regardless, a large proportion of the aerodynamic drag slowing you down will be caused by your own body. 

By adjusting your position on the bike you can not only make yourself more aerodynamic but may also increase pedalling efficiency.

Adjust your saddle position and overall bike fit, with the goal of being as aerodynamic as possible. This will vary from person to person but as a general rule you’ll want to aim for a position that improves your aerodynamics without being so aggressive that you negatively impact your power output. For most people, that means hinging at the hips, having a back that is nearly parallel to the floor, and holding your handlebars with your elbows bent at 90-degree angles. It should look something like this:

Adjusting your saddle height is quick and easy, with an Allen key the only tool required. 

There are various schools of thought on achieving the optimum height. Some of them require a master's degree in advanced mathematics to figure out but a simple rule is your inseam measurement minus 10cm. For example, if your inseam is 85cm, try setting your saddle height at 75cm (from bottom bracket centre to the top of the saddle).

It used to be thought that getting as low as possible at the front end was most aerodynamic. Modern testing, however, has found otherwise, and many professional riders now tend to have positions that are longer and narrower — more stretched out rather than simply lower. Without forking out for new handlebars or a longer stem, you can still make small changes. At UCI level, the brake levers can be inwardly rotated up to 10 degrees, essentially providing a narrower position. 

Typically a road bike will be sold with a steerer length that allows for a few spacers, often around 2.5cm in total and usually sitting under the stem, so there's plenty of room for adjustment. If you do feel too upright, remove spacers from underneath the stem and place on top. You can also go as far as to flip the stem so it’s flatter. 

Removing the spacers is referred to as ‘slamming the stem’ in cycling parlance, and although positions are changing, it's still a popular thing to do among racers and can put you in a more aerodynamic position. It requires a degree of flexibility and isn't for everyone.

Achieving a slammed stem is a quick and easy adjustment that can be done by almost any at-home bike mechanic. The more spacers you remove, the more extreme the position change will be, which means it will take you a longer time to get used to it. Best practice is to lower the front end in increments, thus allowing your body time to adjust and simultaneously become more aerodynamic and flexible. 

If you find that you're experiencing any neck, wrist or back pain, or you're struggling to produce the same power in this lower position, back off, raise the stem and work on your strength and flexibility.

2. Improve your flexibility and core strength

Watch a little racing on TV and you’ll quickly notice that the riders are able to maintain a flatter position on the bike. 

For us mere mortals, obtaining the desired ‘flat back’ isn’t always so easy, and staying in it mile after mile is often even more elusive. But if you’re struggling to achieve, and hold, a more aerodynamic position don’t panic. There’s plenty of work that you can do off the bike to improve your comfort on it.

Improving flexibility is the first port of call. Focusing on stretching your hamstrings, glutes and lower back should pay dividends - but remember, Rome wasn’t built in a day.

Adding some additional focused off-the-bike sessions such as yoga and pilates can help improve your flexibility too.

As we mentioned earlier, getting into a more extreme position on the bike is one thing but being able to hold it, while still putting down the power, is another again. Improving your core strength will aid this significantly. Not only will it help you stay comfortable, but will also improve your pedalling efficiency and likely help you stay injury free.

If you're not sure how to stretch these areas or improve your core strength, then these four exercises can help build the perfect core routine.

3. Clean your bike

It won’t come as a surprise that a clean bike is faster than a dirty one. What might, however, is just how much the collected grit and grime is costing you in the shape of wasted watts.

Whether a wipe down, a quick rinse, or a full-on power wash (steering clear of the bearings), it all helps.

Studies have shown that a “dirty" chain can cost you 10-20w, which translates to 1-2kph at race speed. But more on that in a minute.

First consider the benefits of a clean bike to your mental approach. There is nothing like the feeling of swinging your leg over a sparkling clean bike, donning a new pair of shoes and fresh kit. 

Focus on the drivetrain and components, and especially the ones that spin. When it comes to speed and pedalling efficiency, a clean, well-lubricated chain is one of the most important factors.

The chain is where you transfer the power from the pedals to the wheel, and the place that you can lose the most power. 

To get rid of those lost watts, you’ll want to clean and lube your chain regularly, armed with one of the best chain lubes for bikes. How often you do it remains up for debate, and it’s likely to vary depending on the season, but at least every couple of rides is advisable.

The process is straightforward but remember you’re applying the lube to the chain’s rollers (inside) rather than the plates (outside). Once you’ve applied the lube don’t forget to wipe off any excess with a cloth — left on this just attracts dirt and is quickly the undoing of your good work.

You can also opt for wax over lube. Many chain waxes on the market will talk up their watt-saving properties but they are more time-consuming to prep and apply than a humble lube.

It’s worth pointing out here that you’ll also need to consider the state of your drivechain. If the chain, cassette, chainrings and jockey wheels are covered in gunk then you’ll want to de-grease and clean these first before you lube the chain.

4. Adjust your tyre pressure

In the last few years tyre widths, and subsequently tyre pressures, have changed. The narrow 23mm racing tyre, typically inflated to 120psi, is largely a thing of the past, replaced by wider tyres, run at lower pressures.

Today, cyclists race on tyres ranging in width from 25 to 28mm, or perhaps even wider for a race such as Paris-Roubaix. Tyre pressures are likely to be around 80-90psi, but lower still if they’re riding tubeless; Alejandro Valverde’s 28mm tyres at the 2022 Strade Bianche race measured just 53.7psi on the front and 55psi on the rear, for example.

Ultimately the ideal tyre pressure for you depends on what kind of tyre you’re running, the weather conditions and your weight.

Tubeless tyres are becoming more common, while tubulars are still a popular racing tyre. Clinchers are still the norm for training, but mostly because they are the cheapest and easiest to mount and repair. So how do you find the perfect tyre pressure?

It’s highly weight dependent, but for a 70kg rider, you can start around 80psi as a general benchmark. With a narrower 23mm tyre, you can try 90-100psi, whereas a wider 28mm tyre should work well around 60-70psi. There are a number of other factors to take into consideration, but thankfully we’ve compiled them all in our post on what’s the correct road bike tyre pressure? 

Lighter riders should go lower, while heavier riders should use higher tyre pressures. Also, make sure to reduce tyre pressure in wet conditions, as this increases the tyre’s contact patch with the floor, giving you better grip in the corners and decreasing your risk of crashing.

Also check out the tyre pressure recommendations from your wheel manufacturer - Zipp for example recommends significantly lower pressures for its rims with hookless beads.

The end result of the best tyre pressure is speed, on the flats, up the climbs, and ripping around corners.

5. Check your rear derailleur

There are few things more frustrating to a cyclist than skipping gears, and few moments more sketchy than skipping a gear in a sprint. Adjusting your rear derailleur will not only save your sanity, but it can also make you faster.

Each part of your drivetrain (crank, chain, sprockets, etc.) has a maximum efficiency where you are effectively losing close to zero watts between the pedals and the wheel. But with every bit of dirt on the chain, or wear in your cogs, or skip in your derailleur, you are losing precious watts and speed. 

Thankfully, minor rear derailleur adjustments, which are all you’ll need 99% of the time, are easy to do and quick to solve. You don’t even need tools or a bike shop in most situations. Assuming your rear derailleur was originally set up and aligned correctly, all you need is a turn or two of the barrel adjuster. If the gears are slow to shift up to a larger sprocket you’ll need to add some tension to the cable but if its hesitant coming back down the block you’ll want to remove a little.

The same principle applies for electronic shifting in that you’ll want to make small adjustments to the derailleur so it shifts cleanly but here you’ll need to follow the manufacturers guidelines to dial it in.

6. Check your brakes

How many times have you been dropped on a climb and you look down to see if your brakes are rubbing? We’ve all been there, and it's normally caused by less than ideal legs.

But every once in a while, those brakes are rubbing, and that completely kills your speed.

It is usually fairly obvious enough when your caliper brakes are rubbing, as you can see them in contact with the rim. Disc brakes are harder to spot by eye, due to their position on the bike. In fact, you will probably hear disc brakes rubbing before you see them rubbing. The faint metal grinding is quite distinguishable, and every bit of rubbing is shaving off speed. 

There are many different ways to adjust disc brakes, including the literal hands-on approach of bending the rotor if it’s out of true in one spot, or more fine-tuned adjustments that have to do with the hoses and brake tension. 

Before you make any adjustments to either the rotor, or to cable tension if you’re using mechanical disc brakes, make sure that the caliper is properly aligned. From this starting point you can confidently diagnose the cause of the rubbing. 

Often you can achieve this ‘centring’, especially with hydraulic versions, by simply loosening off the caliper mounting bolts just enough so the unit can move a little, pressing the lever so the pads meet the rotor, then holding the lever down while you re-tighten the bolts. This should alleviate any rubbing caused by a misaligned caliper by centring it around the rotor.

7. Remove excess weight

Hill-climbing specialists will typically go to some pretty extreme lengths to shave a few extra grams from their bikes. In some instances, that means literally shaving off parts of your bike such as the bar ends. But in other cases, it can be as simple as removing a bottle cage or front derailleur.

If you are racing an uphill TT or going for a steep Strava KOM/QOM, you will have a better chance of success with a little less weight on board. As long as you don’t need the extra bottle cage or derailleur, it is just unnecessary weight.

For those of you wanting to go to the extremes — perhaps you want to attempt a long and prestigious Strava KOM/QOM, or try your hand at Everesting — there are many other areas where you can save or remove weight. One brake (but not both), bar tape, gears, and drop bars can all be partially or completely removed in the name of saving weight.

Smaller changes also help. Before a ride, consider what you really need. Do you need two inner tubes in your saddle bag? Or your entire wallet in your back pocket? All the extra grams add up!

8. Consider your kit

Flapping clothing will definitely slow you down. There's no benefit to having a parachute flying behind you in the form of a loose jacket or gilet, and well-fitting garments allow the air to flow more smoothly over the body. 

Lycra is worn by cyclists for a number of reasons: comfort, protection and enhanced performance. Loose clothes create more drag, so make sure your kit is as snug as possible without being restrictive. Most cycling garments have an element of stretch so as not to impede pedalling or breathing even when worn close to the body.

You don't have to wear a skinsuit to gain some drag-reducing benefits — just something that's not too baggy —  but if you're racing, it may be something worth considering.

Keeping your bike clean is one of the best ways to ensure it’s running as efficiently as possible while helping prolong the life of many of its moving parts. Given the growing cost of replacing components, investing in one of the best bike cleaning kits won’t just help your bike’s performance but will be kinder on your wallet.

The best bike cleaning kits typically contain a blend of cleaners and the best chain lubes, which enable you to spruce up the frame as well as rid the drive chain of unwanted muck. They typically will have a range of brushes too, each with a specific purpose, from cleaning a cassette to buffing up wheels. Some will even come with a case or bucket to store it all in.

Choosing the best kit for you will depend on a number of factors, including whether you’re buying one for the first time or looking to update and replenish your current stock. Fortunately, our team of reviewers have tested a wide range of the best bike cleaning kits, and we've selected from their favourites here, based on our years of cleaning bikes professionally and in our spare time.

Cleaning your bike is really simple, but something that can be very easy can also be overly complicated. So, why not check out our guide on how to clean your bike?

Best bike cleaning kits 2026

Best overall

If you’ve just bought one of the best road bikes or perhaps one of the best gravel bikes and you want a starter kit to keep it clean, then the Ultimate from Muc Off is a great choice.

We’ve chosen it as best overall in this guide thanks to its comprehensive nature. This is a kit that really does cover all bases and a great starting point for those new to bike cleaning or for any cyclist wanting to update their cleaning kit by starting afresh.

Naturally it contains the brand’s iconic pink Nano Tech bike cleaner, which is a multi-purpose offering that works across much of the bike and to be paired with the sponge. There’s also a dedicated drivechain cleaner, which like the aforementioned bike cleaner, is biodegradable and has consistently proved effective at dissolving grime collected on the chain and cassette.

The set of brushes include one designed to accompany the Bio Drivechain Cleaner, helping you to clean those hard to reach spots, especially between the cogs. There’s also larger brushes for cleaning the frame and wheels.

The final stage of cleaning a bike is to protect it against the elements. The Muc-Off kit contains a bike protect spray for the frame and a lube for the chain. The former is accompanied by handy cloth. And last but not least there's the tool box to store all the elements in, helping to keep your garage or workshop a little tidier.

Most eco friendly

Peaty’s bicycle cleaning kit is another comprehensive offering , featuring seven items in total including cleaners, degreasers and brushes. It gets our nod as the most eco friendly kit in the guide due to the solid environmental credentials of the products, even the brushes have wooden handles rather than the usual plastic affair, while the smart carrying case is made from recycled materials.

Both the bike cleaner, called Loam Foam, and the foaming drive chain cleaner are excellent, doing the job they are intended for without complaint; the Loam Foam has the added bonus of a truly minty smell, too!

The All-Weather LinkLube is equally effective and just as minty. Application is aided by a well-designed tall, slim bottle and a clear tip that allows you to see that the lube is in the chamber and ready to be applied.

The kit contains two brushes. One is aptly titled the Bog Brush, and is designed to deal with the cleaning of the frameset and the wheels. The other is a dedicated cassette cleaning tool, which features a nicely angled handle to help keep your knuckles away from the sharp cogs. Last, but not least, is a cleaning cloth, resplendent in a suitably mint blue colour.

Best budget

Weldtite's Grande Bike Care Kit is a truly cost effective way of cleaning your bike. Like the Halfords kit below, it’s a fraction of the cost of many featured in this guide but still covers most of the bases.

As you’d hope there are products to cover all the areas of a proper clean. The litre bottle of bike cleaner features a trigger that allows you to apply it as a fine mist or a power spray; it means that this bottle is good to be used again and again, whether you choose to refill it with a Weldtite cleaner or not. The citrus degreaser also comes with a trigger spray and some eco-credentials, while the ceramic lube is also bio-degradable.

The only brush in the kit is a dedicated cassette cleaner, which if you’re starting from scratch is ideal, as you can always get by with cleaning the frame and wheels with a kitchen sponge. There is however a cleaning cloth to finish off the job, as well as four disc brake cleaning wipes.

There’s no bucket or carrying case included here, but given the price point it’s understandable.

Best for the basics

For those of you in the UK and looking for a genuinely well-priced cleaning set that covers all the basics, then the kit from Halfords is tough to beat.

It’s almost as complete an offering as both the Muc Off and Peaty’s kits featured in this guide, featuring eight items, including a 1-litre bucket which stores the items and can be used as part of the cleaning process, too.

It’s fair to say that the cleaning products don’t perform quite as well as the two brands mentioned above but the Halfords kit is literally a fraction of the price. And for that you still get a dedicated cleaner, degreaser spray and an all-weather bike lube. We found all of them did their job well, while the citrus smell made the job of cleaning a little more pleasant.

The cassette cleaning brush is a nice touch, something you don’t always see in budget cleaning kits. Additionally there’s a general purpose cone brush, a sponge and cloth, enabling you to tackle all the stages of a comprehensive bike clean.

Most comprehensive

If you’re a few extras in your bike cleaning kit, then Juice Lubes is another brand to look for. The set featured here has all the basics but also some nice extras; we really like the inclusion of the frame polish and protector as well as the chain-cleaning tool. The latter is typically something you’d have to purchase separately and is, we find, a cleaner and more effective way to de-grease your drivechain when compared to using a brush.

The Juice Lubes bike cleaner is a real standout. It’s delivered in a concentrated form, which means it goes a long way compared to the diluted versions. It’s also really effective at getting rid of dirt without you having to apply lots of elbow grease. This might be the generous foam it produces, who knows? Either way it’s one of our favoured bike cleaners.

How we test

For most of the Cycling Weekly team, testing the best bike cleaning kits and cleaners involves getting out, riding bikes, and getting mucky. Thanks to our fairly damp climates, this is not a difficult task for most of us who live in the UK and North America's Pacific Northwest.

While most of the kits we tested do a fine job, we are looking for those that stand out and offer something that differentiates them from the herd. This could be the inclusion of a drivetrain degreaser or cleaner and a brush or tool to agitate these with, making a big difference to the performance of your bike and the overall longevity of your components. Of course, the effectiveness of these cleaners is key also; if they merely push the grease around, thats is going to see us marking the product down.

Overall, if the kit includes the basics required to clean a bike and the cleaning products provided appear to be effective, then that will result in that product getting a decent score. We will, of course, also increase scores based on additional areas covered. For example, if a cleaner is PH-neutral or makes eco-claims, assuming the brands can back that up with sufficient data or evidence.

For more on how we test products, you can read our full guide and learn a bit more about our scoring system and, of course, the Cycling Weekly testing team.

How to choose

To help you select the right bike cleaning kit for you, here are few areas you’ll want to consider:

Specifications
Bike cleaning kits range from those containing the basics to others far more comprehensive in their offering. You’ll want to match the kit to your requirements. A comprehensive kit is a good option if you’re starting from scratch. However a more basic kit might be better suited to those who are just needing to replace a few items in their existing kit.

Eco-credentials
Not all cleaners and degreasers are biodegradable. Check the labels before you buy if you want to use products that are kinder to the planet.

Fragrance
If you’re planning on cleaning your bike regularly, which we suggest you do, then you’ll want to use cleaning products that are pleasant in their smell. Like choosing a perfume or aftershave, this is entirely subjective, but finding a cleaner and degreaser with a pleasing scent does make the chore of cleaning your bike a little less arduous.

Price
As shown in this guide, bike cleaning kits vary greatly in price. Comprehensive kits from the big players will always cost more, and we’d generally say that you get what you pay for. However, there are a number of budget kits that have proved to be effective in our testing, ensuring that you can still clean your bike without breaking the bank.

How to clean your bike

Cleaning your bike needn't be complicated; like anything, once you start getting into the details, it becomes a bit of a task. However, the basic principles and process of cleaning your bike are very simple, and you need very few things to do it effectively. For those who are interested, we have a full guide on how to clean your bike, but it really is as simple as these five steps:

1. Rinse - get your bike wet. Either with a hose or bucket and sponge, but it's important it's clean water.
2. Add cleaners - be liberal with the cleaners for your bike overall and your drivetrain, and leave to soak just for a few minutes.
3. Agitate - elbow grease is key to a clean bike; grab your brushes and get scrubbing.
4. Rinse - just like step 1, clean water and make sure you clear as many of those cleaners and degreasers as possible.
5. Lube - possibly the most important step, make sure your bike is dry, disperse any water residue, then lube your chain and any other important moving parts.

What you need to clean a bike

As mentioned above, you need very little to clean a bike effectively. However, like with so many bicycle tools, such as the best bike multi-tools or chain cleaners, you can get lost in the broad range of available choices. Of course, it is nice to have tools to make your life easier or speed up the process, and certainly, there are a few things out there that can help, like a Jetwasher/Garden Hose, a chain cleaning tool or even an airline for blowing away any water residue. Really, you need these 5 very basic items:

1. A water source (can be a bucket, doesn't need to be a hose or jet washer)
2. Bike cleaner
3. Drivetrain degreaser
4. Lube
5. Brushes and some rag (can be old Tee or a nice microfibre cloth)

Frequently asked questions about Bike cleaners

For more buying advice in cycling, check out our guides on the best bike storage solutions, best puncture repair kits or best handlebar tape.

There are few performance gains these days that can cost as little as a bottle of the best chain lube for bicycles. Using the right lubricant and applying it correctly can save you money by extending the lifespan of your bike's components.

Sounds too good to be true, right? And, you would be correct, choosing the wrong one could do more damage, and this is where Cycling Weekly can help. Our team of experts are here to guide you through the minefield that is selecting one of the best chain lubes.

You can, of course, follow the manufacturer's guidance: wet lube for more demanding conditions and dry lube for warmer, dusty summer days. However, you also need to consider your cleaning habits, as these can significantly affect how you approach lubrication. These Synthetic lubricants feature prominently in this guide, as they are affordable and easy to apply.

There is, however, a third option: waxing! If you are not familiar with this, I recommend reading Rachel's guide to waxing your chain. Even with more up-to-date tools, waxing can be messy. Solvent-based wax lubes don't perform as well as dipping wax; however, they are a step ahead of synthetic lubes, as we found when testing the Smoove lube, which we rate our best overall.

The best chain lubes for bicycles 2026 - all tested and rated

Best overall

Reviewed by David Motton - Tech Contributor

Developed for the Absa Cape Epic MTB stage race in South Africa, a notoriously hard race on drivetrain and suspension components, Smoove proved so durable that it was dripped onto the chains of the majority of the top ten teams in its first year.

As Smoove is a wax-based drip lubricant, it's recommended that before the first application, the chain needs to be deep-cleaned, to remove impurities, old lube or that applied by the factory, if you're using a new chain. This process was somewhat laborious and required multiple cleaning cycles and products to ensure it was fully clean.

During my testing, I found that the extra effort required in the application stage paid dividends when it was time to ride. After 150 miles in varied conditions, including some rain, the chain is still running smoothly and is noise-free. This means that despite Smoove Lube's higher price, it still offers good value for money given the longevity of each application. Just remember to stay on top of your cleaning; all be it, if you do this correctly from the get-go, reapplication should be much easier.

• Read our full Smoove lube review

Best for wet conditions

Reviewed by David Motton - Tech Contributor

Fenwicks looks to marry the advantages of wet and dry lubes with its All Condition formulation. It's a bit lighter than many wet lubes, so it soaks into the chain quickly and doesn't become claggy or collect dirt, doesn't wash off in the rain, but is still easy to clean your chain.

It's also biodegradable and comes in a bottle made from recycled plastic, so its environmental credentials are first-rate too.

I tested the lube across a range of weather conditions and was impressed by how little dirt it picked up, even after a gravel ride. It also handled the rain well, during both the simulated 'garden hose' test and out in the real world, leaving our chain rust-free and running smoothly, even after 100 winter miles.

• Read our full Fenwicks All Condition lube review

Best lube for dry and dusty conditions

Reviewed by David Motton - Tech Contributor

Finish Line's dry lube is very effective at repelling dirt, making it a good choice for dry and dusty riding. While it no longer contains Teflon, the updated formula is said to still reduce friction and mechanical wear as it penetrates all the nooks and crannies for complete protection. At the time of testing, I was using the Teflon-based formula, which, understandably, is not good for the environment and can be fine for humans in small doses. Thankful, as mentioned, Finish Line has moved away from this formula.

In dry conditions, the lube worked well. Our chain stayed very clean, with the Teflon seeming to work just as well as it does in frying pans. Finish Line says that the 60ml bottle should be good for around 100 miles. I'd say this seems pretty accurate, though if used in wet conditions, it will last less than this.

We are now looking into getting some of the new formula in for testing.

• Read our full Finish Line Teflon Plus Dry Lube review

Best lube for gravel

Reviewed by Matt Ischt-Barnard - Tech Writer

I have been using Peaty's Linklube all-weather for at least three years, and really, I can't fault it. Its unique formula, which requires shaking before use, blends a clear part that contains the water dispersant, anti-corrosive, and penetration fluid, with the blue part, which contains a mix of oils and waxes that penetrate deep into your chain rollers and keep them running smoothly.

Peaty's Linklube is branded as a lubricant that cleans and is designed to dislodge dirt, muck, and grime from your chain links. I couldn't confirm whether this was true, but even after a deep clean, the chain tends to go black and look dirty after use. I have no issues with this, as my chains all run smoothly, quietly, and rarely seem to attract any additional dirt.

I would say the limits of Linklube stop at the extremes, so if it is particularly dry and dusty, or you are bog snorkelling, it lacks the durability that a dedicated wet or dry lube would have in those conditions.

While Linklube All-weather is more expensive than Muc-off and Fenwick's options, I find the applicator bottle much easier to use. It doesn't leak, and it allows for much more control. Peaty's now offers large 360ml refill pouches, making the bottle reusable as well.

Most durable

Reviewed by David Motton - Tech Contributor

Muc-Off's wet lube formula contains no harmful acids, CFCs or solvents, and is biodegradable. It features the company's integral Extreme Pressure Additives coat for increased efficiency in the drive chain.

On test, the lube kept our chain quiet and smooth, although it did attract a bit of dirt and grime. In wet conditions, both real and simulated, the chain remained rust-free. It's also long-lasting; I'd say that you should be able to ride 100 miles+ between applications.

• Read our full Muc-Off Wet Lube review

Best lube for road cycling

Reviewed by David Motton - Tech Contributor

Squirt's Chain Lube is a wax and water-based lubricant that is noticeably drier and cleaner than most oil-based options. Ideally, it should be applied to a sparkling clean chain and then left for a while to penetrate fully before use, so no last-minute applications before diving out the door on a Sunday morning.

When conditions are reasonably dry, then it lasts very well, and I have used it without issue on road, gravel and mountain bike drivetrains, but I confess that my chains do get very regularly cleaned. If you prefer to layer on lube after lube without recourse to a brush and cleaner, then perhaps look elsewhere.

As it isn't as sticky as oily lubes, dust doesn't get attracted to it, which helps chain and cassette longevity, but very wet or gritty conditions can strip it off fairly quickly. If I know I am in for a long day in the saddle (or multiple days back to back) then I will use something heavier, but for everything else, I like Squirt a lot.

• Read our full Squirt Chain Lube review

Honourable Mention

Chain waxing isn't for everyone, as it can be time-consuming and messy. However, the results are a clean chain, proven to last significantly longer than one lubricated by synthetic and oil-based lubes. Cycling Weekly contributor Andy Turner recently presented the case that waxing your chain is a far more cost-effective and faster option than upgrading your bike or frame, in his piece, "Can a waxed chain really make you faster?"

It is certainly becoming easier and more affordable; that is why we honourably mention the Silca Ultimate Wax System, which now offers a straightforward process for degreasing and waxing. The system houses its own heating element, keeping everything together in one crockpot and minimising mess. You can literally dip and hang. Given that it is also not an outrageous price, like so many modern bicycle innovations, it is worth considering.

Specifications table

Meet the tester

How we test

All the chain lubes featured have been tested in real-world conditions. This means our testers have used the products under a range of conditions to assess their performance, accounting for the different demands placed on different lubricant types. We take into account a range of factors, including ease of application, longevity, cost, and noise, as well as any appearance of rust or damage. Our testers are also periodically using a chain wear detection tool to gauge which lubricants could save you money over time.

All lubes featured have been applied to a new chain, cleaned in an ultrasonic bath between applications. As part of the testing, our reviewer also conducted a test designed to best simulate riding in the rain to eliminate variables.

After applying the lube, the reviewer soaked the chain with water from a garden hose and left it for 30 minutes before riding. This riding was then repeated on a repeatable route, including steep climbs and plenty of gear changes, to determine the smoothest and quietest performer.

In the case of some lubricants featured in this guide, such as Peaty's All-Condition, these are the personal choices of some of the experts on our team at Cycling Weekly, who have used them for many years.

For more on how we go about our testing here at Cycling Weekly, visit our 'How We Test' Page.

How to choose the best bike chain lube

Studies have shown that the type of lube itself makes little difference to the efficiency of a clean chain, although we've looked at whether swapping your chain lube can make you faster.

So if the type of lube is unimportant for efficiency, why is there so much choice? Alex Trimnell, Muc-Off’s CEO, has this advice: “Keeping your drivetrain clean and well-lubed is important for a smooth riding experience, but you need to make sure that you use the right lube for the conditions.”

But a glance in your local bike shop will reveal a vast range of lubes to choose from. Wet, dry, wax and ceramic are just a few of the different types on offer. So which lube should you choose?

Despite the seemingly endless differences, chain lube can be categorised into just two simple types: wet and dry.

Simon Nash of Green Oil, which makes environmentally friendly lubes, explains: “Wet lube was the original lubricant of choice. Early brands used something like car engine oil. Its consistency trumped basic spray lubricants that were primarily designed to displace water.

"It worked and was durable. But many cyclists on the road racing scene took to waxing chains in a frying pan. Secret formulas mixed in the kitchen often led to chains being dipped in bespoke waxy lubricants overnight.

"Companies soon realised that instead of heating up wax to melt onto a chain, wax could be melted (or rather dissolved) in a solvent. When this is applied, the solvent evaporates, leaving just the wax, or ‘dry’ lubricant.”

Going back to Trimnell’s advice, choosing the best lube solution comes down to the conditions you ride in.

Wet lubes are suitable for use in all weather conditions, but they really come to the fore when riding in autumn and winter, as they are water-resistant, so they won’t get washed off while riding through puddles or in a rainstorm.

Most wet lubes will provide efficient lubrication for over 100 miles of riding with one application. If you ride in the winter months, a wet lube will resist salt corrosion. Wet lubes are also really good at reducing drivetrain noise.

The downside is that the sticky nature of wet oil can attract dirt, which, if left to build up, can act as a grinding paste to wear out components rapidly. It also oxidises and if left to build up, ends up as thick black gunk. Using wet lube properly requires regular degreasing and cleaning of your drivetrain.

In dry, spring and summer conditions, you want to use a lighter lubricant, usually a wax-based ‘dry’ lube. Dry lubes are much cleaner to use and attract less dirt build-up, even with repeated applications. This makes them much better in dry or dusty conditions, especially off-road or on gravel.

However, even a light rain shower will wash dry lube off the chain, and it is less durable; an 80-mile ride in dry conditions can drastically reduce lubrication.

As Nash also points out: “Value is an issue — in a bottle of wet lube, 100% of the formula will lubricate. In a dry lube, some of the formula is solvent, which is there to aid application.”

Whichever lube you prefer to use, for optimal results, Trimnell suggests leaving the lube on the chain overnight before riding for maximum benefit.

What the experts have to say...

My view: Andy Verrall former service course manager, One Pro Cycling

A wet lube from the team's supplier, Juice Lubes, is my default choice year-round. I prefer to have a lube on the drivetrain to cover all weather.

The most important thing for me is daily cleaning of the drivetrain with degreaser, thoroughly drying it to remove all moisture before reapplying more lube.

This way the drivetrain is far more efficient and you gain extra life out of the whole system, along with no loss of power from the rider.

My view: Simon Nash, Green Oil founder

Every bike cupboard should have both a wet and dry lube. Dry lubes are for the driest conditions and cleanest chains.

Wet lubes can be used all year, offer better value and have the greatest longevity. Whether wet or dry, it’s often a question of how much time and effort you want to put in.

Either way, make sure you use a lubricant — your chain will thank you for it!

FAQs about chain lube

There are a few simple steps to tighten a bike headset. Tightening is what's most commonly needed as headsets tend to work a bit loose with riding But if your front wheel isn't turning easily you may need to loosen your headset. Worse case you may need to replace the headset bearings if they're worn or corroded, which is a job for a bike shop.

Having a stem that isn’t perfectly straight, a headset that clunks, or handlebars that are simply not at the right height are problems that are very easy to fix - it's a simple bit of bike maintenance. Here is how to do it.

How to tighten a bike headset: all you need to know

1. Undo headset bolts

Undo the two bolts at the side of your stem so that they are just loose — don’t undo them entirely. Then undo the headset top bolt. You might need a different size of Allen key than you did for the stem bolts. Typically the side bolts are 4mm but the top bolt may be 4mm or 5mm. Some brands use Torx bolts while others have custom designs with different methods of fixing in place.

2. Move headset spacers

If you want to alter bar height this can be done by changing the position of the spacers that are usually placed beneath the stem. If you lower the stem be sure to put the spacers above the stem. The amount you can add beneath depends on how far down the fork column has been cut. Be sure to line up the stem so that it’s straight. Stand directly behind your saddle (straddling your rear wheel) and run your eye along the top tube, stem and front wheel to make sure that they are all in line.

3. Tighten the top cap

When tightening the headset top cap it MUST push down on the stem, or the spacer above it, and not the fork column itself (the top cap pushes down on the headset which tightens it up). Do up the headset top cap until it is just tight — at this point you should be unable to turn your stem spacers. Do not overtighten it. A torque wrench is a good idea at this point.

4. Do up the side bolts

Alternate between each side as you do them up. Ideally, use a torque wrench or preset torque key if you have one so as not to over-tighten the stem on to the fork column. The required torque is usually stamped on the stem; it's often 5Nm.

5. First test

Lift the front of the bike off the ground and let the front wheel and handlebars flop from side to side. If it’s smooth, that’s good; if it’s stiff, the headset bolt was done up too tight, so try again.

6. Second test

Hold the join between the stem spacers and the bike frame. Put on the front brake and rock the bike back and forth. If there is any movement between the bike and the spacers the headset bolt isn’t tight enough, so try again... and again!

Knowing how to tighten a bike headset and having the right tools is useful, as you'll probably find you need to make small adjustments every few months, particularly if you have a bike with a carbon steerer tube. You should check your headset for play regularly as part of your routine bike maintenance.

Time taken: 5 minutes

Tools for the job: A selection of Allen keys, new brake block cartridges

If your brakes blocks are getting dangerously close to their wear indicators, if they’re squeaking like a bag of cheesed-off mice, or if they’re simply getting old and you want to rejuvenate your braking, fitting new brake blocks is a quick and easy job.

1. First lift the brake caliper quick-release so the blocks move away from the rim.

2. Most modern road bike caliper rim brakes use a rubber brake block cartridge, held in an aluminium shoe. Undo the bolt holding the shoe in the caliper arm and remove it from your bike. (Try to remember the order the washers sit on this bolt.)

3. With the shoe in your hand, find the tiny bolt holding the brake block cartridge in place and unscrew it. Do not lose this minuscule bolt!

4. Slide out the old brake block cartridge and slide in a new one. If it doesn’t want to budge, try using spittle as lubricant (sorry, but it does work).

5. Refit and tighten the tiny bolt. Then refit the shoe in the caliper and refit and tighten that bigger bolt holding it in place. Don’t forget the washers.

6. Close the brake caliper quick release. Then realign the face of the brake block with the wheel, (there should be 1mm of rim visible above the block, a uniform gap along its length, and the block should hit the rim squarely or very slightly front end first).

Having your chain come off mid-ride is a bit of a nuisance, and getting it back on, for the fingers of clumsy folk, can be a fairly hairy procedure. Here’s a quick guide to keeping your digits safe.

1. First of all — while you’re still moving — if your chain has come off the smaller chainring at the front, use your gear lever to move the front derailleur to the big ring position. If you’re lucky you, might be able to pedal the chain back on.

2. If that doesn’t work, hop off the bike and use your gear levers to move the derailleurs to the positions of the smallest sprocket at the back and the smallest chainring at the front.

3. Push the rear derailleur forward with your left hand, giving the chain some slack. We want as much loose chain as possible so that our fingers aren’t nibbled.

4. Using your right hand, lift the top of the chain so it sits on the small chainring.

5. Let go of the rear derailleur and the chain should be reseated.

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How to put your chain back on

Having your chain come off mid-ride is a bit of a nuisance, and getting it back on, for the fingers

It’s worth getting into the habit of going through our ABC of pre-ride checks, even if your bike was in good condition when you last rode it.

These two-minute checks can help to prevent unwanted dramas or incidents that could delay you or cause an unexpected early end to your ride, be it group training, your daily commute or a ride with the kids.

And what’s more, by using these checks regularly you should be able to detect any potential problems before they develop into something worse, which could potentially hit your wallet hard too.

A is for air

Always check tyre pressures before riding. For 700c tyres, between 90 and 110psi is a good guide. Towards the lower end if you are a light individual or conditions are wet, and towards the upper end for heavier riders or for dry, smooth roads.

Remove small pieces of flint that may have lodged in your tyre, as these could work their way through, causing a flat. Also, check wheel quick-releases to ensure they are fully tightened. Finally, hold the wheel and see if there is any noticeable side-to-side wobbling. This indicates a problem with your hubs and they may need adjusting. A spinning wheel should be smooth and quiet. Lack of smoothness, any wobbling or noise would indicate a potential problem that you should get checked out as soon as possible.

Top tip: Check for cuts in the tyre; they often contain flint and glass, which should be dug out. Too many cuts and the tyre’s had its day.

B is for brakes and bolts

Rubbing brake pads will wear themselves and your rim out prematurely. As a general rule your brakes should be fully applied by the time your brake lever is pulled halfway to the bars. Check your brake pads have sufficient life left in them for the duration and conditions of your ride — most modern pads have wear indicators to help you decide.

If your brake lever pulls in too far, you can easily adjust it back to an acceptable braking position using the barrel adjusters, either at the lever body, or on the caliper arm. Turning them outwards — anti-clockwise — will add tension to the cable, reducing the lever travel. A simple adjustment that requires no tools.

If your brake levers don’t spring back smoothly after you’ve pulled them you may have dirty or frayed cables or a problem with the brake caliper itself. Check the cables’ condition and lubricate them and the caliper’s pivots with light oil.

Finally, check the brake pads contact the rim at the same time to ensure even wear. A bit of trial and error will soon make it obvious how adding or removing tension centres the brake. Remember, ‘B’ is also for bolts. Check handlebar, stem, seatpost, cable clamps, plus mech and mech hanger bolts frequently to make sure they’re still firmly tightened. A torque wrench is ideal (and essential for carbon parts), but a standard set of Allen keys or multi-tool will do.

Top tip: Bottle cages often work themselves loose. Make sure the bolts are tight before you put your drink bottles in.

C is for chain and controls

Controls include your handlebars, stem, headset and gears. Check your stem and handlebars, especially where they meet, for signs of surface damage that goes beyond mere scratches. Apply the front brake fully and try to rock your bike back and forth. Any play or looseness indicates a loose or damaged headset and it will need adjusting.

Cranks also come under our ‘C’ check. By making them parallel with the ground and holding each one, see if you can push or pull them to the left or right (when looking from above) this will indicate wear in the bearing of your bottom bracket. After this, check your pedals for movement and make sure your chainrings aren’t bent.

Next check for smooth gear changes. Gear cables should be clean and without signs of corrosion and the pivot points on your derailleurs should move freely.

To start with, have a quick run through the gears. If the chain does not move up onto the next cog smoothly, or it rattles and skips between the two randomly, make small anti-clockwise turns of the barrel adjuster — increasing the cable’s tension — on your rear mech until the chain shifts correctly. Now make sure you can shift with precision up and down the cassette. Back-pedal and watch the chain pass through the rear derailleur. Skipping and hitching indicates a stiff link in your chain. Laterally flexing and lubing the chain across the stiff link may free it. You may need to use a chain tool.

Top tip: Take the time to turn your shoes over and check for worn cleats. If your foot comes loose when you’re climbing, it will hurt!

Tools for the job

Multi-tool: with Allen keys, flat and cross-headed screwdrivers and maybe a chain splitter.

Track pump: with a pressure gauge.

Chain tool: pocket-size or as part of multi-tool.

Chain lube: dry Teflon types are best for road bikes. Avoid ‘wet’ aerosol oils.

Disposable gloves: buy them in multi-packs to save money and use for oily jobs.

Bike stand: not essential but a stand makes check-ups and maintenance jobs much easier than leaning the bike against a wall or post.