Look is a pioneer among the best road bike pedals, having introduced the first clipless road pedal, the PP65, back in 1984. However, it was only in 2011 that the company unveiled the Keo Blade platform, a system that eschewed a metal spring in favour of a carbon blade to retain the cleat interface.

The Keo Blade has become the gold standard for road bike pedals, offering a bulletproof and durable system that I've personally used for years. But just how far has Look pushed the design and performance envelope with the new Look Keo Blades, if at all?

I've been testing the range-topping Look Keo Blade Ceramic Ti pedal for a few months now and have been impressed by the performance and durability it affords the user. That said, I'm not entirely sure the £160 premium over the standard Keo Blade is justified.

Construction

You’ll be hard pressed to tell the new Look Keo Blade apart from its predecessor, but there are clues such as the ever-so-slightly bigger platform. The new pedal body profile has been redesigned for enhanced aerodynamic efficiency, featuring a lower frontal surface and a reprofiled leading edge, which is claimed to reduce drag by 2% compared to the previous Look Keo Blade. The pedals now look more purposeful in appearance than before - burlier even - and this has had little impact on weight.

Look claims 95g per pedal, which matched perfectly with the weight recorded on our scales: a total figure of 190g for the pair. The total stack height remains unchanged at 14.8mm (pedal: 8.5mm and cleat: 6.3mm), which is still higher than those of its rivals, the Shimano Dura-Ace pedals and Wahoo Speedplays. The pedals employ a contact area of 705mm (64mm wide), claimed to ‘’eliminate hot spots and offer riders increased pedalling stability.’’ Looking at the spec sheet, the Keo Blade’s contact area outperforms Shimano Dura-Ace (255 mm²) and Time X Pro (692 mm²), but comes up just short of Wahoo Zero (713 mm²).

The Keo Blade Ceramic Ti’s are built around a carbon pedal body complete with titanium axles with ceramic bearings. Like its predecessor, the pedal incorporates a stainless steel plate, but instead of a single piece, it now features a three-part design – something which seems more aesthetic than functional. The plates are not replaceable, which is a shame as they tend to scuff and mark easily.

To ensure improved durability, Look has redesigned the spindle with new internal and external dual-sealed bearings, as well as used a reformulated water-resistant grease. This is a good move, as previous Look Keo Blades were prone to water ingress and corrosion, which particularly hindered functionality and accelerated wear and tear on the bearings.

Tension is adjustable via the carbon blades, which are available in four options: 8, 12, 16, and 20Nm. My test pair came fitted with 16Nm blades – one of the tighter fitting options that provide a secure fit. Look states that the 20Nm blade is aimed at pro riders, particularly sprinters.

The ride

Installation is simple, but it's worth noting that the titanium axled Keo Blades require a 6mm hex tool, as opposed to the 8mm needed for the steel axled pedals. (A 15mm spanner will also work for the titanium axle).

Existing users of the Look Keo Blade pedal will feel right at home when it comes to use – it’s all very familiar here. Look also claims the new pedals provide a “60 per cent easier clip-in rotation due to an improved weight balance.” While this is more nuanced than pronounced, in practice, it does feel easier to clip in and out of the pedal, and this will also depend on what blade you’ve got fitted.

The pedals are well-balanced in the sense that, when not laden, they hang with the underside facing away from the shoe, making it easy to clip in on the move. If you botch it when pedalling away from standstill, they don't spin uncontrollably like some other pedals, allowing you to correct and clip in quickly.

During the test period, I used these pedals in a range of weather conditions, from extreme heat and sub-zero temperatures to wet-weather rides. While my previous-generation Look Keo Blades suffered from moisture contamination, Look has undoubtedly improved the durability of the bearings thanks to the internal and external dual-sealed cartridges. They’re still spinning freely with no discernible grinding when spinning the axles.

While Look claims a 200 per cent improvement in “robustness and impact resistance”, again, this was something I didn't actively attempt to test. The pedals were subjected to a few knocks here and there and have fared well in this regard, with no chips or cracks. In one particular instance, the pedal clipped a kerb without any signs of damage or displaced stainless plates – issues that have plagued previous Keo Blades.

Value and conclusion

The new Look Keo Blades represent more of an evolution than a revolution, and that’s no bad thing. What Look has done is refine its recipe and iron out areas that plagued the previous model, namely, bearing and pedal body durability. To this end, the improvements have resulted in a noticeable step up in quality and functionality – the aero claims are impossible to quantify in real-world scenarios.

The big question here, however, centres around which Look Keo Blade pedal system to choose rather than whether you should opt for a rival brand. While the Keo Blade Ceramic Ti pedals feature all the bells and whistles, such as ceramic bearings and titanium hardware, the US$414 / £299.99 / €310 represents a significant outlay when you consider there are two cheaper and equally as good pedal options in the range. This includes the US$268 / £199.99 / €210 Keo Blade Ceramic and the US$185 / £139.99 / €145 Keo Blade, both of which weigh 115g per pedal. The differences lie in the bearing and axle materials, neither of which is a deal-breaker.

If you’re a weight weenie after that sub-7kg build, looking for marginal gains or have the money to spend, by all means, get yourself a set of the Keo Blade Ceramic Ti pedals, as they are genuinely a well-made product. However, if the 20g (per pedal) weight penalty and steel bearings and axles don't bother you, the regular Keo Blade is the model I’d recommend.

It was decades ago that I first started using clipless pedals. A sign that I was getting more serious about road cycling, I tried Time and later Shimano options, but after a year or two, I eventually settled on Look’s Keo model. And there I stayed, happily clipped in, for many more years. But then I had a hip operation. Once I was back on the bike, I found that my favoured pedals were no longer quite as easy to use.

Having lost strength and mobility in my left foot, leg and hip after the surgery, I was left feeling like a newbie once again, worried as I glided up to a traffic light that my foot wouldn’t budge and I would suffer the indignity of toppling over in front of car drivers and passing pedestrians. I experimented with tension and various floats, but the fundamental issue persisted.

Not wanting to use flat pedals, I began in earnest to find a clipless pedal that was easier for me to use with my weaker leg. Picking the brains of a local bike shop, they suggested the Crankbrothers Candy. Great, I thought, until they showed me a pair of double-sided MTB-style pedals. Not a great look on my Colnago. Unwilling to switch from road pedals, I stuck with my Keos, but began to unclip only my right foot when it was time to stop. I did this for a few years. It was fine but not ideal.

Around this time, I bought my first gravel bike and remembered the Candy recommendation. I bought a pair and quickly realised why they had been suggested. Easy to locate with your cleat without having to look down, I could swiftly clip out without issue. Yes, I was less locked in than I was when using road pedals, but this wasn’t an issue on gravel. More importantly my hip approved.

Over time, I began to spend far more time on my gravel bike and now use it on the road as well. The greater comfort of the bike is exemplified by the Candy pedals that are still proudly attached to the cranks. I think I’m on my third pair now and continue to love the simplicity and ease of use.

Currently, the Crankbrothers Candy 1 pedals are on sale for 26% off for Amazon Prime Day. Like the bike shop in my past, I’d happily recommend them to anyone looking for a fuss-free two-sided clipless pedal that doesn’t cost the earth.

Amazon Prime Day is drawing to a close, and you only have until midnight tonight (11th July) to grab a bargain. So, if pedals are not your thing, check out all the deals our cycling experts have dug out from this year's Amazon Prime Day cycling deals.

If you train and race to power on the road, and want to do the same on gravel, the Assioma Pro-MX 2 pedals could fit the bill - and they’ll do it for a fraction of the cost of their competitors.

Italian company Favero has been in the power meter market since 2015 and added these SPD-style PRO MX pedals to their range in February 2024.

While the ‘PRO’ in the nomenclature identifies the structure of the power spindle and internals, the ‘MX’ indicates the disciplines Favero expect them to be used for, MTB, CX and, of course gravel, where our review pair spent their time. Unlike Garmin’s Rally line, you cannot convert these for use on the road, they are purely SPD pedals.

There are three iterations in the PRO MX line. Here we’ve tested the MX-2, which reads your power and other data metrics on both pedals The MX-1 is a cheaper, single-sided option which you can upgrade to double-sided with the MX-UP. Nice and simple.

The construction

On first examination, they look like a slightly chunky version of Shimano’s stalwart off-road SPD pedals. However, they are slightly wider, which provides a broader platform for the foot. There are a couple of flat, knurled sections at either end of the body, but otherwise the aluminium mechanism looks almost identical to the Shimano original, including release tension adjustment screws.

According to Favero, the Assioma PR MX-2 is the first pedal where all the electronics, including the rechargeable battery, are housed in the spindle, protecting them from knocks, water and dust ingress. As the battery and other electrical are housed together the chance of power dropouts is almost zero.

The design separates the electrical components from the two needle roller bearings making maintenance and servicing fairly easy. You can even replace the pedal body, though not with a road body, remember.

Another benefit of the sealed spindle design is stack height. It’s only negligibly greater than standard Shimano SPD pedals, meaning only the most sensitive will need to adjust their saddle height to compensate.

The internals take a slightly different approach to power measurement from other manufacturers. Just like other power pedals on the market, they measure the torque being applied by the rider hundreds of times a second, but the difference comes when it comes to angular velocity. Favero claims their competitors’ products estimate this factor, which fails to account for the variability in the pedal stroke.

Favero’s Angular Velocity-based Power Calculation - IAV for short - measures the angular velocity throughout the pedal stroke, thus providing a more accurate real-world measurement, even with oval chainrings.

Favero has done a remarkable job keeping weight down. My Shimano PD-M540 SPD pedals weigh 352g per pair, while the Assiomas weigh in at only 384g. That means the battery and all the other internal gubbins add just 16g per pedal.

Connectivity is via Bluetooth and ANT+, and charging is simple too. Included in the box are two charging sleeves that you simply slide onto the connectors on the pedal spindle, plug in and hey presto! My first 20 hours of use used about a third of the battery life, which corresponds with the claimed 60-hour battery life.

The ride

Fitting and setting up the Assiomas is as easy as it gets. You will need a 15mm spanner, and if you want accurate power readings you’ll need a torque wrench to tighten them to the required 35nm, which is tighter than I tend to fit pedals.

Once they’re on, simply download and open the Favero Assioma app and follow the instructions. One of the manufacturer’s big boasts is that you only need to calibrate them when first installed or moved to another bike. However, my Garmin prompts me to do it every time and, as it takes seconds, I do.

Like most power meters you wake them by spinning the cranks, and you’ll see a red light winking where the spindle pokes out of the inside of the crank. For me connection to both the Favero app and my Garmin Edge 530 is instant.

Favero claims a power accuracy of +/- 1%, but that is accuracy to itself, not to other units. Using this method is not special, all manufacturers use it for their accuracy claims. I tested the Assiomas against a wheel-off indoor trainer, and while the finite power showed discrepancies between the two devices, which increased with higher outputs, those discrepancies were consistent.

According to Favero my FTP is not what Zwift suggests, so I would recommend an FTP test with each power device so you know where you stand. While this is not a direct comparison, the Assiomas’ power readings are very similar to those recorded on a SRAM Red Quarq power meter used on a test bike over the winter.

The Assiomas and the SRAM also showed an identical, and rather alarming, imbalance in my left-right power output. But that’s not the only extra metric you get, with Power Centre Offset (PCO) you can see how far from the centre of the pedal your power is exerted, informing cleat positioning. Power phase shows where in the pedal stroke you are putting power through the pedals, and you can also see the amount of time spent in and out of the saddle.

I couldn’t feel the extra millimetre stack height compared to my standard SPDs, but the pedals felt great to use, providing an excellent platform to pedal on. The Q-Factor is 53mm, so you clip in and go.

Value

If you need power pedals for your off-road bike, the Favero Assioma Pro MX-2 pedals are the best value you can find.

At the time of writing, Favero will sell them directly for under £490. That’s for the double-sided model we tested here, which is not much more than Garmin’s Rally single-sided SPD-compatible pedals, and considerably less than SRM's single-sided X-Power pedals.

Other than Garmin’s 120-hour replaceable battery life, features are comparable or in many cases better than their rivals.

Shop around for the best price though, because at the same time Favero are offering them for £489, a well-known UK-based retailer has them for £648.

DMR pedals are renowned in the mountain bike world - and the V12 is regarded as something of a classic. 

While the flat platform shape is primarily designed for flat bar trail riding, it has obvious benefits for gravel, as well as for those who ride hybrid bikes, be it for work or leisure. As a result you'll find a number of similar styles featured in our guide to the best flat pedals for gravel and urban use.

DMR V12 Magnesium: contruction

The V12 Magnesium is a large platform pedal that DMR says has 10% more surface area than the original. Out of the box, it certainly looks pretty big; a quick check with a tape measure confirms the stated 95 x 100mm size. It’s a confidence inspiring shape that looks as though it will deliver plenty of support over a variety of surfaces.

It’s not a particularly chunky pedal however. Measuring 16mm in depth, it cuts a slim, almost streamline shape, with a subtle concave. It would be a push to call it elegant, but the V12 Magnesium are more refined looking than many of the best commuter bike pedals I've seen.

This is heightened by the pedals' low weight. On my scales each pedal weighed 170g, which is close to 50g lighter than the standard model’s claimed weight. Undoubtedly this is down to the use of magnesium, which allows DMR to reduce the pedal’s overall weight while still equipping it with a durable Chromoly axle and sealed bearings.

Each side of the V12 is fitted with 10 pins. These are essentially grub screws that can be adjusted to suit your grip requirements - raise them for more grip, lower them for less. This adjustability also means that they are replaceable. Given my experience with the fragility of grub screws this is no bad thing.

The aforementioned axle and bearings are serviceable. If you want to just give the axle a clean and re-grease you’ll only need a couple of hex keys to do the job. If you’re replacing the bearings and the bushings - service kits can be bought separately for a full pedal overhaul -  you’ll also need a proprietary V12 tool that removes said bush. 

It’s a welcome feature given the initial cost of the V12 Magnesium pedals and should mean that they have a considerable life span.

DMR V12 Magnesium: the ride

Initially I left the pins as they came - backed out a fair way. The high degree of grip was immediate. The pins contacted the sole of my shoe and didn’t let go, even as I applied greater pressure and shifted my weight around the bike.

On the road this made for a stable ride. Coupled with the generous platform size it created a level of connection with the bike that I’d typically only expect from clipless pedals. The result was great support, with my feet remaining in position as I transferred power through the pedals. I sought out a couple of steep-ish climbs to test this further, and the V12s passed with flying colors.

Vitally, the impressive grip and stability didn’t mean that I couldn’t remove my foot quickly when needed. This was handy when cycling through the city, but essential when I tackled some wooded trails and a meandering off-road river path. 

On this terrain the pedals came into their own, again providing plenty of support and grip while still allowing me to take my foot off the pedal when required. It meant that the confidence-inspiring shape I’d noted pre-ride delivered just that - the reliability of the performance quickly meant I was riding without thinking about my feet, safe in the knowledge that they would remain planted when I needed, yet never glued in place so as to cause concern.

As someone who’s spent years riding nothing but clipless pedals I was unsure about the comfort of flats, especially over longer distances. While I haven’t used the V12s on the length of ride I’d typically do on a road bike, they have proved to be perfectly comfortable for a couple of hours at a time. 

Again, I credit the blend of grip and stability here. Essentially, my foot remained in place for as long as required, alleviating any concerns I had over potential knee pain cause by my foot shifting around on the platform - if I was using the pedals solely for commuting and leisure riding however I would screw the pins in a fair amount more to help save the soles of my shoes.

DMR V12 Magnesium: Value

At $87 / £80 the DMR V12 Magnesium pedals aren’t cheap but they are competitively priced. The blend of materials and the serviceability of the design should also mean that they are durable enough to add credence to the ‘buy cheap, buy twice’ theory.

For comparison, the regular V12, which features an aluminum body, retails for around $/£20 less than the magnesium version. The weight penalty is approximately 100g across the pair.

The Raceface Aeffect Pedal is a comparable full-metal affair, again serviceable with replaceable pins. They retail for $119.99 / £99.95, which means the V12s undercut them by a small amount on both price and weight. 

The Shimano SPD pedal (PD-M520) is an absolute classic, combining a rugged and robust build with excellent value. But first, let's just get clear on the nomenclature and compatibility...

These types of pedals (the sort which you 'clip in' to) are called 'clipless' because they work with a cleat on the sole of the shoe to provide the retention. Previously (several decades ago), toe-clips and straps were used instead, but these were trickier to release yourself from and faded away over time. 

That's the nomenclature out of the way, now for the compatibility. These pedals work with two-bolt cleats, so called because they fix to your shoes via two closely spaced bolts. The main alternative is three-bolt cleats, which are the sort most commonly used by performance oriented road cyclists.

Two-bolt cleats and double-sided pedals (such as these) have a number of advantages, the most significant being that they are easier to walk in, the cleat is harder wearing, the pedals are better at shedding mud and they're easier to clip into. 

Three-bolt cleats tend to offer more support and provide more 'float' options (the extent to which your foot can twist side to side), which makes them better for racing.

This particular model, the Shimano PD-M520, is one of the cheapest dual sided clipless pedals and boasts time-proven robustness - which is what makes it one of the best clipless pedals and one of the most commonly spotted. We'll take you through their construction and how they feel in use.

Shimano PD-M520 SPD pedal: construction

The pedals weigh 380g/pair and the cleats are 54g/pair. They have double sided entry,  a chrome-moly axle and low maintenance sealed bearings. They also feature class leading mud/debris shedding to keep you clipping in time after time. They also have adjustable tension setting to allow you to set the tightness (or otherwise) of your shoe release. More on this later.

The pedals are supplied with a pair of SH-51 cleats, washer section and bolts. These single release cleats are the standard type, allowing shoe release from the pedals in one direction by rotating the heel outwards. You can buy the SH-56 cleat which is a multi release version, often used by new or nervous riders. The cleats can be used on 2-Bolt type cycling shoes, often recessed within the sole which allows easy walking - check out our guide to the best budget cycling shoes here. 

The pedals are available with either a black or silver finish.

The M520 pedal has been with us for over 20 years now and was an update from the original SPD pedal type M737/M505 etc. The main visual change was that mud clearance was improved. If you look at the photo below you can see the M520 (above) has space between the mechanism and the axle housing. The older style (M505 - below) had a plate which could get much more easily blocked up. The cleat (SH-51 & 56) remain the same from the inception of SPD pedals and will work in any iteration of the Shimano Pedal Dynamics (SPD) system. History lesson over! 

The pedals may be fitted using either a 6mm Allen/Hex key or a 15mm pedal spanner. Do remember to put a dab of grease on the thread first as it will make their removal in the future much easier. The pedals are clearly marked 'L' & 'R' so that you don't put the wrong side in. Once fitted the pedals looked purposeful and I was ready to go riding. The initial tension that they came set with was spot on for me so I left it be. 

If you are new to SPD's and nervous about falling over and being unable to unclip, then try turning the tension a few clicks to '-' (Minus). Just remember to do the same number of clicks on all four sides otherwise you might be surprised by different tension across the pedals. Also practice riding along and unclipping then clipping back in. It'll be second nature really quickly.

The ride

I'm really used to the Shimano SPD system and have been riding with it for many years, and these pedals felt very familiar straight away. They had a great clip in sensation, and easy clip out with the factory set tension. I felt connected during pedalling and there was no hint of being thrown out of the pedal over rough ground, or when powering up a slope whilst out of the saddle. The pedal axles rotated smoothly. After the first ride there was a little grease that had been ejected from the spindle seal. I wiped it off and there has been no further loss since. This was just a settling in thing from first usage, good to know that they are well packed with grease.

The double sided aspect is good, particularly on challenging terrain, as it's easier to clip in. With a single sided system you have to fish around a bit to get the correct side, and then clip in. Each has it place though. 

Value

At $60/ £45, the Shimano M520 pedals are nominally more expensive than the Time ATAC XC 2, which is a really well-priced dual sided pedal at $58 / £36. But the Shimano pedals can often be found on a significant discount, so do shop around for good deals. That makes them a significantly better value option than the Cranankbrothers Candy 1 ($80 / £57).

Conclusion

There is an argument to say that you could use these pedals and these pedals alone for nearly all riding. Certainly the SPD system has worked for me with off-road riding and racing, road riding, touring, commuting and so on. I like the system as it is efficient and allows me to wear shoes that I can walk in too. 

I do appreciate that certain disciplines, such as BMX, utility riding and some mountain biking like a flat pedal, that road riders often prefer the SPD-SL 3-bolt style shoes and pedals, and that some riders need more float (for dodgy knees) and will prefer a different make,  and each has its good reasons. But for everyone else, this pedal is incredibly versatile, really hard wearing, and at a great price too. A stone cold classic.

The Look X-Track pedal is a Shimano SPD-compatible double sided clipless pedal that’s designed for use with two bolt cleats, which Look supplies with the pedals. It’s a good option for mountain bikers and also for compatibility with the best gravel bike shoes.

Look X-Track pedals: construction

Compared to the Shimano M520 pedals, which are Shimano’s nearest equivalent, the Look X-Track pedals are slightly less skeletal, with raised, crosshatched areas on the alloy body inboard and outboard of the retention mechanism. This gives a wider, more stable pedalling platform than the Shimano pedals and even more pared-down designs like Ritchey Comp XC pedals, without resorting to a full platform design.

The X-Track pedals are at the bottom of Look’s two bolt pedal range. Look also sells the X-Track Race, X-Track Race Carbon and X-Track Race Carbon Ti, the last of these with a titanium spindle, carbon body and a claimed weight of 290g a pair, saving 100g over the base model. It costs $270 / £200 a pair instead of the $60 / £47 price tag of the model we have on test.

The X-Track pedal’s spindle is made of steel and the pedal body is alloy, with double seals to keep the bearings safe. There are steel cleat engagement plates affixed with chunky rustless Torx bolts. There are no spanner facets on the spindle, which is screwed into the crank from its end with an 8mm Allen key. An Allen bolt on the tail of each rear retainer lets you alter the release tension of each side independently.

Like Shimano, Look offers two cleat options. Its standard cleats, which come with the pedals, offer 6 degrees of float and have a 13 degree release angle with a single release direction; X-Track Easy cleats have the same amount of float and release angle but offer multidirectional release.

Quoted stack height of 16.8mm is just 0.2mm lower than the Shimano M520. Standard colour is black anodised, but Look has also offered other colour options including red and brown.

The ride

The Look X-Track pedals provide easy engagement when starting off. The wide platform means that you can also ride confidently unclipped if you do miss the front anchor when trying to engage, so it’s easy to remount and get going again even in tough conditions and on steep uphills. 

There’s plenty of adjustability to the cleat release tension, so you can fine-tune this to your preferences. As with any SPD pedal, the recess around the release spring tends to collect debris, but it's easily cleaned out. The spring will benefit from the occasional squirt of lubricant or oil too, but otherwise the release mechanism is trouble-free.

Look’s wider sideplates mean that the X-Track pedals shed mud a little less easily than the Shimano M520 pedals, but it’s nothing that a quick bash of the shoe on the end of the pedal won’t clear – treatment that the pedals seem perfectly able to handle. 

I’ve used a set of X-Track pedals as my principal off-road pedals for gravel biking, along with some winter road riding, for the last five years and they’re still going strong. There’s a little play in the left-side bearings, which have never been serviced, and some wear to the pedals’ outer stabilising surfaces and the engagement mechanisms. They’ve coped well with the occasional rock bash with only superficial damage.

The cleats too wear well and I’ve not had to replace mine, although I have used other cleats on different gravel bike shoes alongside them. As with any SPD pedal, the principal source of adjustability isn’t the cleats themselves, but the length of the slots in the base of your shoes.

As shown in the shot above, the shiny steel engagement surfaces are durable and resistant to wear, although they will rust if you pack them away damp as I have. But overall durability of the X-Track pedals is impressive and my old pair shows no sign of wearing out any time soon.

Value and conclusion

The Look X-Track pedal range closely shadows Shimano’s SPD pedals in price and weight and provides a good alternative to Shimano’s pedal system that’s compatible with it. 

The standard X-Track pedals are comparable in price to the Shimano M520; the X-Track Race are similar in price to Shimano’s upgraded, lighter M540; the X-Track Race Carbon shadow Shimano’s M8100 XT pedals while the 290g X-Track Race Carbon TI pedals are a little more expensive than the 320g Shimano M9100 XTR.  

The pedals and cleats wear well and the pedals are readily serviceable, although you can also treat them as fit-and-forget. The wider pedal body increases foot stability over Shimano’s pedals, making the Look X-Track a good alternative to Shimano and among the best gravel bike pedals. 

Specs

Weight per pair: 390g

Cleats plus bolts: 54g

Float: 6 degrees

Release angle: 13 degrees

Stack height: 10.7mm pedals, 6.1mm cleats, 16.8mm total

Time first started making off-road pedals in 1998 when it patented its mud-clearing clipless design. I wasn’t first to the party but by my rough calculation I’ve been riding them since 2000, which possibly makes this one of the most long-term reviews in Cycling Weekly history (OK, granted, I’ve not been riding this particular review set that long).

The Time XC pedals are recommended for gravel riding alongside mountain biking, and also lend themselves for day to day riding. Here we look at the XC 2, the most affordable of Time’s off-road pedals, to see how it performs in comparison to the best gravel bike pedals, as well as the best commuter bike pedals. 

Time ATAC XC 2: construction

Since the start, Time’s off-road pedals have used the ATAC – Auto Tension Adjustment Concept – system for engagement. In plain English, this means that the front of the mechanism on the pedal moves forward to allow the cleat to engage; on most other designs it’s the rear that moves. As this matches the motion of your foot, Time says it makes it easier to clip in. But perhaps most importantly, the forward motion of the mechanism allows any dirt in the pedal to move out of the pedal rather foul the system.

Perhaps the ATAC’s most famous attribute is the float that Time has been making them the ‘knee friendly’ pedal. Float is the amount of movement that there is whilst the mechanism is engaged, i.e. how much you can move your foot before you unclip. A mechanism without enough float can put stresses throughout your lower body which typically manifests in knee pain. The other advantage of float is that it allows you to move your weight around to match the trail without accidently unclipping from the pedal, an important factor when riding off road. The Time XC 2 pedals have 5mm lateral (side to side) float with rotational float of 10, 13 or 17 degrees which you vary via the cleats. The Time XC 2 pedals come with cleats for 10 degrees which makes unclipping easier when you’re getting started with clipless pedals. The 13/17 degree cleats can be purchased separately ($20 / £19).

On our scales the XC 2s weighed 297g for the pair, and another 42g for cleats and bolts, making the system 339g.

Fitting

The XC 2s use an 8mm hex key for fitting and 4mm bolts for the cleats. Like all pedals and cleats it is well worth using a liberal dose of copper slip or a similar grease when installing so you stand a chance of getting them off again in several months / years to come. The float in the system gives a generous margin of error so it’s much easier to get the cleats set up in the right position than with many other pedals. There’s no tension adjustment on this model so set up is as quick as it gets.

The ride

It seems counterintuitive to say but the XC 2s are both really easy to clip in and out of, yet feel really secure when you’re clipped in. What’s more, pretty much all of this happens without you thinking about it. For instance, in all the times I’ve crashed / nearly crashed my bike off road I can only remember a couple of occasions when my foot didn’t come out the pedal when it needed to and this is running the cleats at the ‘hardest’ 17o unclipping position. All the other times my foot would come straight out to save my blushes.

As the mechanism works as you push forward it's really easy to clip into, there’s very little - if any - technique to master. If you do miss clipping in on occasion, the force of your foot through the pedal is more than enough to engage the mechanism as you start to pedal.

For riding on gravel or the commute, the 10 degree float / easier clip-out angle is a good option, particularly if you’re less experienced riding clipped in and have lots of stopping and starting on your rides. If you like throwing your weight around on the bike and ride more technical gravel trails you might want to try the cleats which allow more movement. The Time pedals I normally ride have the tension adjuster but I haven’t missed this on the XC 2s.

In terms of mud clearance, I’ve never had an issue of not being able to clip into the pedal due to debris, and that includes after some big treks across muddy fields in the depths of winter. The only time I’ve found I haven’t been able to clip in is when I’ve done lots of walking in snowy conditions and the cleat has iced up.

If you’re using these on a day to day basis, the pedal is big enough that you can get away with riding your bike in trainers for a quick trip to the pub / shop without your feet slipping everywhere and getting cramp.

The biggest downside of riding Time ATAC pedals is that not many people do. This makes it a bit more awkward to swap bikes with your mates. Of course, depending on who your mates are, this may be a blessing.

The other thing I’ve noticed over the years is that I need to replace my cleats more frequently than my other half who uses Shimano SPD pedals, with the wear of the softer brass in the ATACs seeming to be a bit faster than the steel SPDs. However, it’s certainly not more frequent than the annual replacement that Shimano recommend for its cleats and as the ATAC cleats are brass they not prone to rusting as the SPDs are.

On the subject of longevity, I’ve only been riding these XC 2s for a couple of months so can’t really vouch for the robustness of that particular set. However, I have several sets of these pedals – including the first ones I ever had 20 years ago which were second hand when I bought them – and are still going strong. And when after a few years you do need to replace the bearings, they’re really easy to service with a socket and spanner.

Value and conclusion

At $58 / £36 the Time ATAC XC 2s are a really-well priced pedal, similar to the Shimano M520 ($60/ £45) and a good bit cheaper than the Cranankbrothers Candy 1 ($80 / £57). 

Overall, the Time ATAC XC 2s are a great option for gravel riding and commuting. They’re easy to master, easy to get in and out of when you need to and don’t get choked with muck and mud as other pedals can. Plus your mates are unlikely to get very far if they try and nick your bike.

Specs

• Stack height: 19mm
• Lateral float: 5mm
• Rotational float / release angle: 10° with ATAC Easy cleats (included), 13 or 17° with ATAC cleats
• Tension adjust: no
• Weight: 297g (pedals), 44g (cleats and bolts)
• Material: glass-filled

Crankbrothers may be one of the most archetypal American mountain bike companies out there but its products reach far beyond the discipline. The Candy is Crankbrothers' clipless pedal for gravel and day-to-day riding as well as trail and cross-country mountain biking.

We took a look at the entry level Candy 1 to see how it performs against the best gravel bike pedals as well as the best commuter bike pedals.

Crankbrothers Candy 1: Construction

The Candy uses Crankbrothers’ clipless cage surrounded by a decent sized pedal body for a good platform of support. The Candy 1 is the entry level pedal which has a composite plastic body around the steel spindle and cage. Our pedals weighed in at 302g with an additional 42g for the cleats, within a few grams of the Time ATAC XC 2 pedals we’ve also been testing recently. For a little joy the Candy 1 comes in four colours; blue, pink, red and black.

Crankbrothers market the Candy as having four-sided entry (the more entry points, the easier it is to clip in), and indeed the cage does. But given this cage is surrounded by a pedal body entry is actually limited to the standard two sides. This isn’t to say that ‘only’ two-sided entry is an issue, more that the four-sided entry doesn't actually apply. If you want true four-sided entry then you’ll need to go for the Crankbrothers Eggbeater 2 pedal which has the same cage mechanism but does away with the pedal body.  

There is no tension or release angle adjustment on the pedal which is the case across all the Candy models. To adjust float and release angle Crankbrothers offer four brass cleat options which determine the release angle (10 or 15 degrees) and float (0 or 6 degrees). The Candy 1s come with the clipless beginner-friendly ‘Easy 6 degree Cleats’ which have a release angle of 10 degrees and 6 degrees of float. As the cleats are brass they will wear so you’ll need to replace them from time to time regardless of which option you settle with.

The pedals are easily serviceable with complete kits available.

Crankbrothers Candy 1: fitting

The pedals need a 8mm hex key for fitting. The cleats take a little more working out as there are a series of shims and bolt lengths depending on how deep the tread on your shoe is but all that is actually required is a bit of instruction reading and a 4mm hex key.

Crankbrothers Candy 1: the ride

I found clipping in and out of these pedals really straightforward, surprisingly so given I’ve never ridden a Crankbrothers pedal before. Even with the early 10 degree release I didn’t have any moments of unplanned foot expulsions on gravel or road riding which was a pleasant surprise.

The pedal body gives plenty of support when you’re clipped in, particularly noticeable if you’re getting your heels down on steep tech-y descents. As the pedal body is fairly large there is enough there to pedal if you’re not clipped in / nipping to the shops in your trainers, but due to the profile and the relatively non-grippy surface you wouldn’t want to make a habit of this.

Personally I didn’t particularly like the feel of the generous float of the Easy Cleats as it made my foot feel quite loose in the pedal. Of course, this will vary depending on your preference and experience of clipless pedals. The big restriction to trying out a different set up is the cleats will cost you $35/£25 a go which is almost half the cost of the pedals in the first place.

The main advantage of the Crankbrothers hollow cage mechanism on the Candy is the excellent mud shedding - no other pedal I’ve run has kept this clean (I took it upon myself to tramp through lots of mud to test this out). The open cage design of the pedal means most of the muck off your shoe just falls away through the pedal.  

Crankbrothers Candy 1: Value and conclusion

At $80 / £57)the Crankbrothers Candy 1 do come in a bit more expensive than some of the other gravel / commuter pedals we’ve been testing recently like the Time XC2s ($58 / £36) and Shimano M520s ($60/ £45).

The Crankbrothers Candy 1 are a good option for if you’re looking to try out a clipless pedal on your gravel or commute bike. The generous float will suit some if not others and the cost of new cleats will add up if you want to try out different angles. On the upside, they do come in some vivid colours which may be the little bit of joy life needs.  

Crankbrothers Candy 1: Specs

• Body material: One piece composite
• Body size: 67mm x 73mm
• Cage material: Stamped steel
• Cleats: Easy release cleat kit included, 10 degree release, 6 degree float
• Inner bearing: Igus LL-glide bearing
• Outer bearing: Enduro cartridge bearing
• Warranty: 5 years

We've now been testing the Garmin Rally XC for six months - click here to jump to the section where we share our long term testing update.

Until recent years power meters have been fairly uncommon in the off-road world. Power isn’t so important to many mountain bikers and there aren’t many options that are compatible with off-road bikes and conditions either. But changes are afoot and power meters are starting to feature more and more as technology advances and gravel riding pushes demand.

There are a number of off-road crank arm / spindle / spider options from Quarq, 4iiii, SRM, Rotor and Stages that have been around for a while but dual-sided and pedal power meters are a much rarer beast. Here we look at the Garmin Rally XC pedals and see how they stack up against the best pedals for gravel bikes and best power meters too.   

We’ve actually already reviewed the current Garmin Rally pedal as a Look road pedal (Garmin Rally RK200). But as well as two different road / three-bolt shoe versions - the RS (Shimano SL) and RK (Look) – the Rally is also available as the XC for off-road / two-bolt shoes.

The Rally is comes in either single or dual-sensing models, the 100 or 200 series. As before, we have the dual version on test for all the fancy pedalling dynamics data.

Garmin Rally XC200: construction

For the Rally XC, Garmin have encased the spindle power sensor in the incredibly popular and highly reliable Shimano SPD pedal body. This gives the pedal exactly the same feel and adjustability of Shimano SPD pedals as well as the convenience of using the same cleats. Unlike the Rally road version that comes in two different pedal body options, SPD is the only off-road option so, if you’re like me and use a different pedal system, you’ll have to change your ways and conform to the masses.

Aesthetically the Rally XCs look like a fairly chunky but beautifully machined Shimano SPD pedal. Unsurprisingly they weigh a bit more (442g as tested) and have a greater stack height (13.5mm) than a non-power pedal. Exact comparisons depend on which model you’re comparing to (the current version of the popular XT pedal is 342g and 8.3mm). I think a useful way to interpret all of this is that you have a dual-sided power meter at the cost of 100g and a few mms stack which is probably acceptable to most people. From a set-up point of view you may want to easily adjust your saddle by a few millimetres to compensate. We’ll come back to the other issue with stack when we’re riding.

The Rally is powered by a non-rechargeable CR1/3N (or two LR44) battery which is accessed via a 4mm hex key. Due to cross-threading issues on previous models the cover inserts on a metal thread. Using a removable battery does risk water and dirt ingress but does have the advantage of improving battery life compared to rechargeable versions - Garmin claim 120 hours of riding for the Rally. 

Garmin do include a couple of spare o-ring seals for when you might lose / tear one during a battery change and the pedal has a waterproof rating of PIX7, or “withstands incidental exposure to water of up to 1 metre for up to 30 minutes” so – as long as you tighten up the battery cover properly on the occasional change – you shouldn’t have a problem.

Fitting

As the spindle is full of the good stuff there’s not room for a hex fitting, so the pedals use a 15mm pedal spanner for fitting and removal. As the spindle protrudes slightly on the inbound side of your crank there are a couple of spacers that you can add if there isn’t sufficient clearance to the chain. Adding these changes the Q-factor from 53 to 55mm.

The only other adjustment is the 12 click tension adjuster on the cage as seen on other SPDs which allows you to get the release feel to your liking.

One of the biggest advantages of power pedals over other systems is the ability to swap between bikes. In the case of the Rally XCs If you’re from a road bike background this is less of an advantage to you as it’s unlikely you’ll want to run SPD pedals on the road. But if you’re a mountain biker like me you can swap and change them from gravel to MTB which makes them a really attractive option.

Although you might not have another off-road bike you want to fit to, the Rally is designed that you can swap the power spindle into a different road body to use as a Shimano SL or Look Keo pedal. Based on our testing and advice from Garmin, this isn’t a job to do regularly so its perhaps not as attractive as it might sound if you want to regularly swap. The other downside is that the pedal bodies are pretty expensive (>$/£200), granted nothing close to the power meter itself but still an additional investment.

Set up

The Rally pedals are both ANT+ and Bluetooth enabled. Using the ANT+ I connected up to my Garmin Edge 1000 and via Bluetooth to my phone to add to Garmin Connect. Using the Connect app allows you to access firmware updates so it’s worth connecting once in a while otherwise everything can be done from your head unit (Garmin or otherwise).

Connection between the pedals and head unit was really straightforward via the ‘add sensor’ function. One thing to pay attention to is adding your crank length rather than allowing it to default to the 172.5mm setting and so likely miscalculate your power.

I did a lot of swapping and changing between bikes for testing so calibrated each ride, although you could choose to use the ‘prompt’ option on your unit to avoid calibrating every time. Calibration is faster after you’ve spun the pedals for a couple of minutes so it’s worth being a little patient to start with.

The ride

The underwhelming headline is the Garmin Rally felt exactly like a Shimano SPD pedal. It took me a few rides to get the pedal tension and cleat position sorted but clipping in and out was easy and reliable. 

A big risk with power pedals on an off-road bike is their vulnerability to striking on rocks. The risk is increased with the greater stack height making the pedal lower to the ground than a thinner one. In truth on a gravel bike this isn’t really much of an issue, bottom brackets aren’t that low and you’re unlikely to be riding the kind of terrain that sees rocks and roots jutting out at all angles. It is more of an issue risk if you want to use on a mountain bike and I’ve clobbered a pedal a few times doing this but they’ve come to no harm. I have friends who have run these pedals for much longer and suffered many more rock strikes who report the same. I suspect this is the reason that they’re only recommended for cross-country mountain biking and not higher risk trail and downhill riding.

On the waterproofing front, I’ve done some very wet winter testing I’ve not had any moisture leaking past the seal and I’m certainly reassured by the waterproof rating.

Power data

The two-sided pedals give you an absolute wealth of data on your head unit and to pore over afterwards. As well as the obvious outputs and hitting your target cycling training zones, understanding how your left / right balance and pedalling dynamics change in line with the terrain gives you plenty to get your teeth stuck into to challenge your off-road riding.

Garmin claim an accuracy of +/- 1 per cent. Comparing to data from a Wahoo Kickr V6, values varied by no more than one watt across the whole power curve. The only exception to this was readings below 10 seconds where the Rally pedals read higher albeit within a 1 per cent margin (the Kickr also has a claimed accuracy of +/- 1 per cent so a variance of 2 per cent would show a good correlation of the data). Looking at the data and understanding the mechanics of the different power readings suggests that it’s the lag of the flywheel and smoothing of Wahoo’s data that results in the Kickr showing a lower power than an over-estimation from the Rally pedals.

Accuracy aside, the data from the pedals is really astounding and is a great demonstration of what a power meter can do. I’m already spending too much time geeking out at how my left/right balance changes at different cycling cadences, power and terrain. Whether all this data will improve my riding is another matter…

Long term testing update

I’ve now done six months of gravel and MTB riding on these Garmin Rally XC pedals, riding which has uncovered some good and less good things about them.

Durability has been good and there are no unexpected signs of wear and tear. They’ve hit rocks on several occasions without any ill-effects. I still wouldn’t risk them on downhill racing but am confident they’ll cope with any bashes I’ll inflict on them (all the tech is in the spindle after all, not the more vulnerable pedal body). They’ve coped fine with a couple of months of wet weather riding including full stream submersions, and a bit of riding in freezing conditions too.

On the downside they’ve developed a small irritating squeak which has been difficult to chase (it’s not from the moving parts like spindle and thread) but I think is the cleats on the body of the pedal when I’m not fully loading the pedal.

Garmin claim battery life is “up to 120 hours riding”, I’ve managed less than 60 before needing to replace them (the low battery indicator shows with 10-20 hours remaining, I’ve let them run down completely rather than remove when the indicator first shows and there’s ride time left). I would really like to see Garmin develop the pedal to include a recharge option too rather than having to completely replace each time.

Like so much of Garmin’s other tech, I’ve found the Rally XCs to be beset with software issues and inconsistent connectivity. Usually once connection to a head unit (usually my Garmin Edge 1000) is established there aren’t any issues throughout a ride. And, despite advice to recalibrate regularly, it doesn’t appear to lose calibration details between rides. But often it doesn’t connect properly at the start of a ride and can take a lot of time and multiple attempts to establish a connection. For example, on my ride yesterday it took 30 mins of riding time before the pedals would connect, the day before it was picked up instantly. The same applies if you stop for more than a few minutes during a ride; sometimes the connection remains, sometimes it takes a minute or two to re-establish, sometimes it takes much longer and you have big chunks of your ride without data.

Tracing the issue is a bit difficult but it seems to be a pedal transmission issue as they aren’t detected by my head unit (via ANT+) or phone (iPhone 12), both of which pick up other sensors / units as expected (head unit sees HRM via ANT+ and phone sees my Garmin head unit and watch on Garmin Connect via Bluetooth). The other issue I’ve had is repeated messages on my head unit to say a software update has failed despite Garmin Connect stating it is up-to-date. On the upside, my connectivity experience is much better than reports of the earliest versions of the Rally pedals. This gives me hope that Garmin might eventually get on top of the software bugs and the next update will resolve all the outstanding issues.

Has my view of the Garmin Rally XC200 pedals changed after six months of use? No, not really. They’re hugely capable in terms of the data they provide, have great flexibility to swap between my current (and future) bikes, and – I believe at least – their vulnerability to rock strikes is theoretical rather than real. But they’re not perfect; connectivity can be a complete pain and battery life has been much lower than the advertised maximum without a recharge option.

Value and conclusion

At $1,200 / £1,000 (currently £800, no US reduction) the Garmin Rally XC200 pedals are not going to be a purchase for the faint hearted. The only direct competitor is the SRM X-Power off-road pedal which retails at around $1,350 / £1,100 which makes Garmin’s offering seem good value. The one-sided version of the Rally will cost you $700 / £600 (currently reduced to £500, no US reduction) and the road pedal body $250 / £220 if you want to swap across bikes.

The Garmin Rally XC200 is a hugely capable dual-sided pedal in the accessible form of a Shimano SPD body for off-road riding.  Although expensive, pedal power meters can be a good investment as you can swap between bikes but only if you want to run the same pedal type on each bike. The transferable Rally spindle does open up the option of even more swapping between off-road and road bikes but it’s not a day to day option.

If you want to find out how to make best use of your power meter, check out our guide on how to use and train with a power meter.

Specs

• Battery type: LR44/SR44 (x4)
• Battery life: Up to 120 hours (with LR44 battery type)
• Weight: 448 g
• Water resistance: IPX7
• Max. rider weight: 105 kg
• Accuracy: +/- 1.0%
• Cleat type: SHIMANO SPD
• Q-factor: 53 mm/55 mm with supplied spacing washer
• Stack height: 13.5 mm
• Measurement location: Spindle
• Communication: ANT+ and Bluetooth
• Other features: Field calibration, Adjustable release tension, Garmin Connect

Designed with 'future shredders' and novice riders in mind, Raceface's Ride pedal sports a durable nylon composite body with 18 molded traction studs to provide solid footing, whilst also being kinder and gentler on your shins should you slip up.

There are nine vibrant colours to choose; Black, Blue, Turquoise, Green, Orange, Purple, Red, Yellow and even Magenta. So you should be able to find a pair that matches your ride.

The Raceface Ride pedals feature burly composite nylon, a slim, concave design, and built-in traction treads with molded traction pins for extra sure footing. They are aimed primarily at trail and city use and can be mounted to a variety of bike, including gravel and e-bikes – similar to the very best flat pedals and the best commuter bike pedals.

Raceface Ride Pedal: construction

The Raceface Ride pedals feature a chromoly axle with a nylon composite body and 9 pins per side. The pedal platform measures 110mm x 100mm and weigh 320g (author measured 325g) per pair. The Cro-mo steel axles are sealed to keep the muck out, yet are completely serviceable for when you want to give them a quick tune-up. The end cap uses a 6mm Allen/hex key to remove it, which then allows the bearings to be accessed.

The pedals use either a 6mm Allen/hex key or 15mm pedal spanner to fit and are clearly marked 'L' & 'R' on the axles. No excuses for getting it wrong!

Raceface Ride Pedal: the ride

Once fitted using either the 6mm Allen/hex key or the conventional 15mm pedal spanner, you're ready to ride. The pedals feel smooth in action when rotating by hand and looked good on the cranks. 

I started riding some cross country trails using my Five Ten soled shoes. They gripped nicely and were comfortable to ride with. I tried getting the soles wet on the dewy grass and still all felt secure. Finally I found some mud and walked up and down to fill the soles up before riding further. There was a little movement, now with the sole when rotating the foot left and right on the pedal. Coming out of the saddle to push hard up a steep bank, I detected a bit of slipping. This was all entirely reasonable behaviour.

Next time I used a Salomon Trail running shoe. This has a more rounded sole profile than the Five Ten soled shoe, in that it curves from toe to mid shank more. Whilst it still gripped fairly well, the shoe felt less connected to the pedal. It felt that, although the pedal does concave a bit, it need to be more concave to give more area for the sole to contact with.

My final shoe was similar to an Adidas Gazelle. With its flat, soft sole and micro ridges, it should match the pedal well, certainly compared to the Salomon shoe. However it was the least successful, as it felt as if you were riding primarily on the axle only and it wasn't an overly comfortable experience. 

Measuring across the pedal with a straight edge, you can see that there is a small amount of concaveature, with the axle area sitting slightly lower than the top of the pins. However if you place the rule between the outer edges of the pedal (at the base of the pins), and across the axle section then the outer edges sit lower than the axle section. 

I think that this is why different soles end up giving quite different feedback to the rider. Certainly when compared to my Shimano Saint MX80 (now PD-GR500) pedals, which are 50 per cent heavier & twice the price, they feel less grippy. The Saints are more concave and use metal pins, which allows you really push into the pedal for grip when you need to. Also the body is concave as well as the pin positioning across the pedal, going from front to back.

Raceface Ride Pedal: value and conclusion

Whilst my comparison with the MX80 pedals might not be entirely fair, I use it to demonstrate the differences rather than to knock the Rides. The Rides are a pedal that you'd buy as a first upgrade from stock pedals provided with a new bike, and very good they'd be going in that direction of upgrade. 

The Raceface Rides ($39.99 / £34.95) are reasonably light, nicely made, maintainable, shouldn't gash your shins with a slippage and are available in a rainbow of colours to match your machine. Seen in that context they are good for both relaxed gravel riding and causal urban and e-bike riding.

But if you're willing to spend more for better performance, there are grippier trail pedals, such as the RaceFace Aeffect pedals ($119.99 / £99.95). Likewise for more urban and e-bike use – and despite their name – or the Look Trail Grip pedals offer excellent grip without the use of metal pins ($75.00 / £64.90). 

A more direct comparison is with the DMR V6 flat pedals, which also have a plastic body. These provide more grip from their more prominent pins, but those are more prone to damage. The V6s are a bit cheaper though, at ($32.40 / £20.00).

DMR are well-known for their flat pedals and MTB orientated gear. The V6 is at the bottom of their range – a range which goes all the way up to the stunning $280 / £215 Vault Mag Superlights.

At around a tenth of the price, could the V6s be an incredible bargain and one of the best flat pedals for gravel and commuter riding? Or have they dipped below a minimum threshold of quality, leaving you better off training your sights slightly higher? We put them to the test to find out.

DMR V6: construction

The V6 is simply a nylon version of DMR’s long-standing V12, an aluminium bodied pedal that was launched back in 1997 and is still going strong.

The 97mm x 102mm platform is relatively narrow and comes with full-length, off-road nylon pins. The pair tip the scales at 327g.

The pedals spin on Cro-Mo axles combined with a dual DU bush system. It’s a sealed, non-serviceable unit.

The V6 is available in 8 different colours, some of which are below, plus a recent special edition which takes on a military camouflage theme 

DMR V6: the ride

I started out with the pedals on my e-bike, a bike I use for commuting and general errands. They are easily fitted with a 6mm allen key, or a 15mm spanner.

The V6s come with two pop-out reflectors per pedal, making them compliant with regulations in many countries, it's a handy feature if you intend to use the pedals on a town/commuting bike. I certainly wouldn’t recommend leaving the reflectors in for anything other than 100% tarmac rides; a minor impact is likely to dislodge the unit, this happened a few times to me when I caught the pedal on a low wall and a kerb.

For the purpose of casual riding, I’ve loved the V6’s. With 10 pins on both sides, they are super grippy without being aggressive towards shoes' soles. The wide, concave footprint helps here too and it feels really comfy. Both are attributes that make them  a solid choice for one of the best commuter bike pedals.

The bushes are, in my opinion, a give away to the price of the V6’s. If you like your pedals to spin freely, it’s best to avoid the V6’s; they are super stiff and haven’t freed-up at all during testing.

After a few weeks of commuting, I moved the pedals to my mountain bike (admittedly wishing I'd been sent the orange version to test). The grip remains impressive, but this will potentially be short lived. The nylon pins aren’t durable enough for real rough trail riding; strike the pedal and tip of a pin could well be off. If you are out on the trails and tracks regularly, the pins will be compromised in no time, rendering the pedal pretty unless for its titled purpose. 

I’ve returned the pedals to my e-bike and love having them there, they will last longer for the switch too. Ultimately, the nylon creates a lightweight, kinder pedal/pin for your shins (and wallet) but if you opt to dabble in gnarly, rocky off-road, they are unlikely to remain fit-for-purpose in the long run.

DMR V6: value and conclusion

NS Bikes have a comparable pedal for $17.99 / £14.99. Going by the specifications it’s got a marginally thicker profile and larger platform, with square pins that look much smaller than the $32.40 / £20 V6's. 

The V6's nylon creates a light pedal that won't inflict pain on your shins or wallet. They perform superbly on a commuting bike with the added bonus that you can probably find a colour to suit your tastes. Sadly, despite their MTB title, I’d say that they are not up to much in terms of off-road performance. Unless you simply dabble in the occasional tame off-road foray spending a little more will get you a longer lasting, serviceable pedal that can handle the rough stuff.

DMR V6: specs

• Axles: CroMo.
• Weight: 327g per pair.
• Platform: 97mm x 102mm.
  

While Look are classically associated with road racing, in recent years they’ve diversified somewhat to offer MTB gear, including a range of flat pedals. I’ve previously tried out the Geo City Grip Vision pedals and loved them for urban commuting; Paul Grele also tried the Geo City Flat not too long ago. 

I was keen to see how the Trail Grip compared, and performed, on a variety of terrains.

Look Trail Grip: construction

The pedal is a result of a collaboration with Vibram, a company well-known for outdoor footwear soles; Vibram is to hikers’ boots as carbon fibre is to road racers’ shoes. The Vibram Activ Grip inserts use a specially developed vulcanized rubber with composite studs. 

The interchangeable insert sits a top a 107mm x 103mm platform and the composite body boasts integrated reflectors at the front and rear. 

The pedals spin on a chromoly axle combined with Look’s ‘race-winning bearing and bushing system’ and weigh in at 530g per pair. They are serviceable, with spares available from Look. 

Look Trail Grip: the ride

The Trail Grips have made their way onto three different bikes during the test period: a commuting/utility e-bike, a gravel bike and an MTB. Fitting is easy with an 8mm Allen key; there's no option to use a spanner.

In terms of looks, I’d say the e-bike carried them well. They look a bit clunky on the gravel and mountain bike, and at 265g per pedal they aren’t so light.

We’ve had some horrific conditions for testing and I can confirm that Vibram Trail Grip pad offers a secure platform for urban riding in the worst of weather, including through deep floods; I’ve not suffered one slip while riding around in both trainers and hard soled boots. A decent sized platform of this grippy stuff means that missing the pedal simply doesn’t happen. 

The integrated reflectors add to the Trail Grip’s urban appeal as one of the best commuter bike pedals.

My experience with the pedals on the trails hasn’t been amazing; they simply don’t compare to a pedal with full pins. Admittedly, they have their pros; they won’t shred your shoes or shins, the Vibram is durable in comparison to nylon alternatives and the bearings run smooth. 

However, if you are serious about off-roading – or looking to get serious – Look’s Trail Fusion or Roc could be better choices. Ultimately, the Vibram isn’t as robust as an alloy when it comes to handling impacts and pedal strikes. You can see this from the photo below. 

They certainly offer better traction than the Geo City Grip pedals that I mentioned, and the flat ones that Paul tested. An adventurous commuter or anyone dipping their toes into off-roading on trails and towpaths will appreciate this.

I’ve also had a spare set of pads to try out. Swapping the supplied black ones for the lime green ones was a piece of cake. The necessary T20 hex key and 8 spare screws are included. It’s a matter of unscrewing two bolts either side of the pedal, pulling the insert out, lining up and screwing in the replacement.

Look Trail Grip: value and conclusion

At $75.00 / £64.90, these are certainly not falling into the budget category, even the replacement pads will set you back $44 / £38. If you want a less aggressive pedal for your shins and shoes but still need a reassuring level of grip, DMR’s V6’s for $32.40 / £20 might be an option. 

They are very much budget, coming with a bushings rather than bearings, and are non-serviceable. HHT Components PA03A MTB pedals for $55.00 / £39.99 are somewhere in between and demonstrate that Look’s aren’t the best value option.

The Trail Grips are well-made and, given Look’s reputation, I’d have no questions over the actual pedal and its bearings. However, despite the Vibram insert being supremely grippy, expecting to them to perform on a par with a pinned pedal on the rough stuff is unrealistic. They could perhaps be better named ‘Urban Adventure Grip’.

Look Trail Grip: specs

• Body material: composite
• Q Factor: 63mm
• Grip: Vulcanized rubber activ grip & composite studs
• Platform area: 107 x 103mm
• Weight: 265g per pedal

The Look Geo City pedals are an everyday, urban-use model aimed at commuters and utility riders going about their business in a city environment. They are reasonably lightweight and affordable – plus they combine a dash of Look's style with quality and durability kept closely in mind. These come recommended as the some of the best flat pedals for commuters. 

Look Geo City: construction

The Geo City pedals use a composite stud and moulded rubber multi grip system to provide a safe and secure platform whatever the weather. They are made from a durable composite which is lightweight but still built to survive city life. They use high performance bearings to give smooth and efficient riding every day. The spindle (axle) is made from Cro-moly steel.

The platform area measures 110x107mm and they weigh 338g/pair (author's measurement). There is a stated Q factor of 61.5mm, which is the distance that your feet sit apart while pedalling. I'm not sure how useful that is in this context but it is interesting to know...

They retail for $40 / £32 at time of writing.

Look Geo City: the ride

Out of the box and with cranks ready for the fitting, these pedals had me slightly perplexed. There is no 'L' or 'R' stamping, no left pedal knurling, and no obvious clues as to which side was which. I looked at the threads to find the left handed one and then, once fitted, I could also see that the 'LOOK' logo, stamped on the pedal face, was readable from the riding position. It made sense now! The pedals are only able to be fitted using an 8mm Allen/Hex key, winding them on from the inside of the crank. 

They felt well made. The bearings turned very smoothly by hand, and once fitted to the bike that impression remained. The bearing end cap is easily removable with circlip pliers. It is a threaded item with a seal and shows good design for both maintenance and keeping out the weather.

When riding, they pedalled very smoothly and felt good in this regard. I tried a number of different shoe types and found that I didn't feel overly secure grip wise when using flat soled office shoes. It was better using trainers and (very grippy) moutain bike trail shoes. 

The file like surface on the pedal is rather hard and not very grippy by itself, meaning the grip needs to come from the shoe. Aside from that, the large platform was good for placing the foot.

Look Geo City: value and conclusion

These pedals are nicely made and show all the hallmarks of being able to have a long life, which is an attribute of many of the best commuter bike pedals. However I never felt that secure with my foot placing with them. It was fine with trainers, although nothing special, and with flat soled office shoes I had to pedal very carefully. It felt as if you were to put any power through them that your foot might slip off. A little more 'rubberiness' in the composite body material would help that foot placement security. 

If you compare them to the Upgrade Crosstown Poly pedals which are extremely grippy and two thirds of the price ($21.34 / £20.00 compared to the price tag of $40 / £32 for Look's offering) then you start to see a problem. I know which I'd choose to ride with...

The Upgrade Crosstown Poly Pedals are a great value option for those who are looking for extra grip while cycling casually around the urban environment. 

In our guide to the best flat pedals, you'll find a lot of models have pins that are included for rougher gravel use, and these aren't so friendly to your favourite non-cycling specific shoes that commuters or utility cyclists use. 

And so if you are all about city riding you'll be pleased to know that this is where the the Upgrade Crosstown Poly Pedals really excel, just like many of the best commuter bike pedals, with the grippy non-slip surface proving to be effective in both the dry and wet, while also not causing any damage to your day to day sneakers or top-end leather shoes for the office. 

Upgrade Crosstown Poly Pedals: construction

The Upgrade Crosstown Poly Pedals are made from polypropylene with a steel axle and feature a grippy non-slip coating to keep your foot secure. They weigh 327 grams per pair and measure 95x84x24mm. They incorporate reflectors on both sides of each pedal and are aimed at commuter and utility bikes.

The pedals feature dual bushings and sealed bearings which should keep the weather out and keep the pedals running without maintenance for a long time. The pedals are marked clearly 'L' and 'R' as well as the left pedal having the traditional parallel knurling lines next to the threaded section (where you screw the pedal into the crank), so no excuses for not know which side is which! 

In addition, the pedals can be fitted using either a 15mm pedal spanner or a 6mm Allen/Hex Key. Just remember to apply a dab of grease to the threads when fitting as it will help when removing them in the future.

Upgrade Crosstown Poly Pedals: the ride

First impression of these pedals is that the Upgrade Crosstown Poly pedals seem decently made considering their cost. The axles were quite tight in rotation and I was able to turn them into the crank threads using only the pedal body (ie without a spanner)! 

I tightened them with a spanner at the end obviously, as you don't want a pedal to unwind and fall out. Once fitted the pedals turned smoothly without any stickiness, despite that tightness. 

I fitted the pedals to my utility bike and rode several journeys using a variety of shoes to see how the grippy non-slip treatment fared, both in terms of wear and grip. It worked really well with all the shoes from the leather soled office brogue to an Adidas style trainer. 

The pedals have a concave shape to the contact patch so, as you apply more pressure from the ball of the foot, the more grip you get. I certainly felt secure with my foot placement on the pedal, and didn't feel that they were going to slip off. They also worked well in the wet and with wet soles. 

The non-slip seems durable and, although it looks like 60 grit sandpaper, it doesn't come off onto your fingertips when you touch it, by which I mean that it seems well bonded in place.

As you ride the pedals feel very smooth in rotation. I think that it will be interesting to see how long they stay running nicely before any play in the bearings occur. However they have an end cap so maintenance (regreasing and adjusting any play) should be possible.

Upgrade Crosstown Poly Pedals: value and conclusion

I think that at $21.34 / £20.00 RRP these are really good value commuter or utility bike pedals. Look's Geo City Grip pedals are considerably more expensive at $75.00 / £58/00.

I particularly liked the grippy surface which allowed traditional soled shoes to be used without fear of a foot slipping off. Also the sealed bearings should keep them working for a decent amount of time. 

Normally I tend to avoid plastic/polypropylene pedals as I don't generally find them to be well made or last very long, however these have been rather good to use. To answer any durability questions regarding the bearing life as well as the non-slip surface I'm going to leave them on my utility bike and will see how they fare over a longer time period. I hope that they will have a long life. I enjoyed riding with them.

The Wahoo Speedplay Zero pedals were relaunched as part of a pared-back, overhauled range in March following Wahoo’s acquisition of Speedplay in 2019.

Although the famous lollipop-shaped pedal always had a strong following, even the most devoted user would probably agree that it needed a refresh. Judging by the impressive performance of the new Zeros, Wahoo has given them exactly that, bringing the pedal fully into the 21st century and to a wider audience, too.

Having said that, Wahoo has been careful to keep all the benefits of original: the spring mechanism is still contained in the cleat along with the adjustable float (previously a feature of some but not all Speedplay models); dual-sided entry is still there, and of course there’s the low weight thanks to the diminutive size, as well as the better aerodynamics compared to Look/Shimano-style pedals.

The Zero sits one from the bottom of the new Wahoo Speedplay range, but Wahoo points out that these are all premium pedals: the ‘entry-level’ Wahoo Speedplay Comp costs £134.99 while the Zero at £199.99 is just £35 cheaper than the Shimano Dura-Ace 9100 SPD-SL pedals at £234.99, which weigh 228g per pair.

Read more about the range in our original launch story here.

Wahoo Speedplay Zero: construction

These pedals are really lovely-looking things and come in a very chic presentation box – Wahoo’s packaging is always part of the experience.

As you’d expect for a pedal just below Dura-Ace level, construction and build quality are high end.

The older pedal used to feature a metal bow-tie shape on a plastic body. Wahoo has added a stainless steel bevelled edge all around to improve durability and also clip-in action so that now it’s more of a plastic – actually a very hard thermoplastic called Grivory – bow-tie shape on a metal body.

The redesigned Zero, like all the new Speedplay pedals, now has sealed bearings that “don’t need regular maintenance,” according to Wahoo. Previously grease had to be replaced every 2,000 miles, or less in wet or dusty conditions, and this meant injecting new grease into a port in the side of the pedal, forcing the old grease out.

The Zero’s spindles, like the metal parts of the pedal body, are stainless steel and come in four lengths, which will be a real bonus especially for women: currently industry-standard ‘Q factor’ is based on the male pelvis rather than the wider female pelvis – the option of longer spindles will solve this.

Whereas the old Speedplays needed a 15mm pedal spanner to fit the, the modern Wahoo version uses a 8mm Allen key – a sleeker and more modern solution.

The cleats have to be considered part of the Wahoo Speedplay Zero construction since they are literally where the action is.

Wahoo Speedplay Zero: setup

Obviously there’s no setup required for the pedals because the spring mechanism is in the cleat – the pedal is ‘dumb’.

But there’s a lot going on with a Speedplay cleat: putting it together is a bit like making a club sandwich: there are multiple layers and they all have to be put together very carefully and in the right order – but as long as you do that, performance will be truly lipsmacking!

In the box you get the plastic base plates with blue shims to ensure the base plate sits flush on the sole of the shoe – there are various shims for soles with different curvatures. Once you’ve a gap-free fit using the shims, the base plates fasten to the three holes (standard Look/Shimano pattern) in the sole using included screws with crossheads. I have to say I would rather see Allen bolts here for ease and precision of tightening.

Once that’s done, there’s a cleat surround to be fitted around the base plate.

Next comes the spring housing and protector plate – the meat in the sandwich – which is fixed onto the base plate with four much smaller crosshead screws.

Finally there’s the dimpled cleat protector to be pressed by hand over the edges of the protector plate.

Yes, it’s a faff compared to fitting a Shimano or Look cleat, which can be done in a matter of minutes with practice, but I’m willing to bet that’s always been part of the fun for Speedplay users,

You definitely do need to set aside a few hours for getting it right if you’ve never done it before. If you haven’t got base plate angle correct, for example, you have to unscrew the spring housing and start again because you can’t access the base plate bolts any more once you’ve fitted the spring and housing. The same applies if the base plate bolts loosen after first setup – as they can when new plastic compresses.

The ride

If you haven’t experienced Speedplay engagement and disengagement, you need to get it right before you go out on the road, because that’s something else that’s not as easy as Shimano and Look. The cleat has to be positioned exactly over the pedal and it takes quite a lot of force to snap it in. To release it you need to twist your ankle much more positively, otherwise it risks being only half released, with the jaws of the spring still holding one half of the pedal, and then you risk taking the tumble of shame at the traffic lights.

Speedplay does also offer an ‘Easy Tension’ version of the cleat, which is available separately for £49.99, has a grey surround/protector and comes with the entry-level Wahoo Speedplay Comp. The Zero comes with the ‘Standard Tension’ cleat (black surround/protector), as do the other two. I found Standard Tension fine once I’d learnt the slightly different technique. Incidentally, the old yellow cleat has gone for good.

Many first-time Speedplay users describe the Bambi-on-ice feeling of the float. Compared to Shimano and Look it is indeed strangely Teflon. However, that’s where the adjustable float comes in. Via two grub screws at the side of the cleat (that’s right, you’re not quite finished with screws yet) you can set the limits of slippage from 0-15°.

I’ve always been perfectly happy with the six degrees of float that Shimano yellow cleats supply and since I don’t suffer from knee pain due to bad tracking or alignment as long as I’ve got my exact saddle height, I aimed to replicate that, but actually found myself narrowing down the angle even more.

Even with my usual float dialled in, it seemed easier with Speedplay – probably due to the non-stick feeling of the float – to catch the side of the crank with my shoe, especially when pulling up on the pedal on a climb – so I found I limited float further to avoid this.

It doesn’t take long for the skating feeling of the freer float to become normal. My first road ride – after a couple of Zwift practice sessions – was a three-hour club run and I found very quickly that I stopped thinking about it.

I did find, however, that the lower stack height of Speedplay – which is one of its benefits, placing the foot closer to the pedal axle – meant I needed to lower my saddle very slightly – and I hadn’t thought to do this in advance.

Did it have any effect on power transfer? Wahoo claims that the lower stack height “can allow for increased power transfer and a decreased saddle height, which results in reduced drag.” It also says the “secure connection can contribute to an increase in the transfer of power, which can make it easier to attain those hard fought watts.” And also: "This range of motion in the foot, lower leg and knee [thanks to the rotational free float] increases comfort and enhances pedal efficiency.”

I can’t say for sure whether power transfer was improved and it would be pretty difficult to measure it, but I’m certain I wasn’t losing anything.

Are there any downsides, apart from the initially time consuming set-up? Well, there are forum threads – as there are about most things – about maintenance of the cleat, featuring stories of getting the cleat springs clogged. It’s easy to see that if you walked around on a verge in winter for too long you could easily get the ‘hole’ full of mud, making clipping back in tricky.

I’ve walked around on gravel outside a cafe and the cleat operation was exactly the same afterwards, but for gravel or adventure riding they’re probably not ideal, and will work best when clean and with a bit of dry lube, as recommended on the cleat cover.

Value and conclusion

I’ve only had these Wahoo Speedplay Zeros since March but the quality suggests they would be a good investment. They’re still looking new and of course are much less easy to scuff because they’re so small.

As I’ve mentioned, they’re a bit cheaper than the £234.99 Dura-Ace while the top Look pedals, the Keo Blade Carbon Ceramic Ti cost £290. The top-of-the-range Wahoo Speedplay Nanos, which have carbon bodies (instead of the ‘Grivory’ plastic of the Zeros) and titanium spindles and weigh 168g per pair cost £379.99.

If you wanted a pair of Wahoo Speedplays but wanted to spend a bit less, the Wahoo Speedplay Comp is £65 cheaper and has a black-painted chromoly rather than stainless steel spindle and weighs a claimed 10g more per pair.

So the Zeros are not cheap, but for what you’re getting in terms of their performance, quality and likely durability it’s a fair price.

Will I carry on using the Wahoo Speedplay Zero? It’s got to be an emphatic yes. It’s not quite learning to play the violin, but I do feel as though I’ve mastered something new and worthwhile.

More importantly, along with the satisfaction of adding another string to my pedalling bow I like the smooth float, the crisp engagement and disengagement, the low pedal weight, the lower stack height – and maybe it’s a bit superficial but I like the almost impossibly minimal look of the pedals themselves.

Compared to the ski binding-derived pedals, I would say the Wahoo Speedplay Zero does represent an upgrade of the whole clipless pedal experience. From both an engineering and a biomechanical point of view (OK, add aesthetics to the list), I felt there was a net gain compared with the Look/Shimano type.

Look says that its Kéo 2 Max pedal is aimed at the Granfondo rider, whereas it pitches its Kéo Blade at the racer. The blade design makes the pedal a bit lighter and more aero than the Kéo 2 Max, but also less adjustable.

Within the Kéo 2 Max family, there’s the standard model, with a composite body and the Kéo 2 Max Carbon, which has a carbon fibre body. There’s not much difference in weight between the two, with the Carbon version losing around 10g a pair.

>>> Clipless pedal systems explained

At 252g, the Kéo 2 Max Carbon is comparable in weight to a pair of the considerably more expensive Shimano Dura-Ace pedals at 249g.

Look has redesigned the Kéo 2 Max pedals for this year. The changes are subtle, yet significant. First, there’s a wider stainless steel mid-foot plate with a changed shape. It’s only added another 3mm, putting the width up to 60mm, but the length has increased too. This increases the cleat contact area by 25% from 400mm² to 500mm².

>>> How to fit and remove pedals (video)

Look says that this increases foot stability. If so, the results are subtle: riding the old and new pedals back-to-back, I didn’t notice any difference. But the new Kéo 2 Max pedal is still easy to clip into and comfortable to use.

Whereas the Kéo Blade pedal’s carbon blade spring comes with fixed release tension levels, the Kéo 2 Max is adjustable using an allen key to change the resistance of the rear spring.

Look has also subtly changed the shape of the body of the Kéo 2 Max pedal, with a more angular front and side profile. The graphics look smarter too. Other changes are internal: there’s a redesigned bearing with a conical spacer, which Look says reduces friction and should improve bearing longevity.

>>> How Look makes its clipless pedals

The Kéo 2 Max pedal still fits the standard Look cleat. This is significantly narrower than Shimano’s SPD-SL equivalent, leading to a less awkward-looking profile on the bottom of the shoe. It’s also more prone to wear than Shimano cleats and so you’ll need to replace it more often.

I’ve been using the older version of the Kéo 2 Max pedals for years and not had any issues with them – they just work. The updated version looks to have only improved on the design.

In its Geo Trekking pedals, Look has provided a solution that combines the simplicity of a flat pedal with the superior pedal stroke of a clipless option. This is useful for people who want the best of both worlds, or those looking to gain confidence riding clipped in ahead of taking the plunge.

At a time when we are seeing an exponential rise in the number of people taking to bicycles, these pedals - which facilitate both commuting in ordinary clothes and sporting rides - certainly have a place.

I have also found dual pedals useful during gravel/cyclocross rides, if I am negotiating a tricky section and I want to have my feet clipped in. Where previously I would have “dabbed” my foot on a descent, I can just keep my foot on the platform side of the pedal.

Look is not the first brand to offer a platform/clipless combination, but this version has impressed me. Firstly, the Geo Trekking pedals rotate smoothly to help you find the desired side. Once you have found the perfect position, the pedal stays in place, probably thanks to it weighing a sturdy 203g. I never experienced any frustrating moments of endless pedal spinning whilst trying to make contact.

On the clipless side, the bindings are designed to make clipping in and out effortless. According to Look, clipping out is 30% easier than with other clipless pedals. I had no issues here, though didn't notice a significant difference between these and my normal choice. The system can be adjusted, via an Allen key, if you want more or less float.

At 84mm, the Look Geo Trekking's platform is not as wide as conventional flat pedals, but it is still a generous enough size to accommodate trainers and shoes. It is also important for your shoe to stay on the pedal and not slip off in the wet, or when applying force, for instance on an uphill stretch.

Grooves on the pedals help to keep shoes in place, so that should go some way to avoid slippage. I didn’t encounter any such problems when riding in Dr. Martens platform sandals, but the grooves on the Look Geo Trekking pedals are quite fine. Similar pedals, by other manufacturers such as the Shimano PD-M324's, have prominent notches and tabs to hold your foot in its rightful place which could provide more confidence.

In terms of visibility, the Look Geo Trekking pedals come with orange reflectors. They may not necessarily be everyone’s cup of tea, but anything that helps a rider be seen on the road is a good thing in my opinion. For greater illumination, Look has developed the Geo Trekking Vision system, an LED rechargeable light that plugs into the pedal.

At €59.90 (£53) and €99.90 (£89) respectively for the Look Geo Trekking and Geo Trekking Vision, some may balk at paying this much for pedals when similar options on the market are half the price.

However, with their durable construction and LED lights you are arguably getting more for your money than other platforms such as the Shimano 8140 at £94, the DMR Versa at £115, or the OneUp Components aluminum Pedals at £123.

If at any point while on a bike a rider is focusing on the pedals there's a problem. But what if, like the Time Xpro 15, they are one of the lightest, most expensive, sets of pedals on the market? Is the effect noticeable enough to justify the cost? 

We can't tell you that a nearly $600/£500 pedal is "worth it" in terms of cost vs reward, but only "the best" will do for some riders - and in that case these pedals might just be for them.

Construction

In the Xpro lineup there is the aero model, compared to the Xpresso for climbers. Both models, however, share similar construction but the Xpresso is a smaller pedal platform and lacks the fairing found on the Xpro.

It's unlikely you will notice a difference in the ride quality with an extra 25mm of pedal platform. It's also unlikely that you'll notice a difference from the added aero optimisation the fairing provides. What you will notice is a longer life because of the fairing.

We've ridden Xpresso pedals for years and the most delicate part of the package is the carbon leaf spring that makes it all work, while in the Xpro design it's protected.

There are three levels of Xpro pedals and depending on your choice the difference is the weight. In the top of the line Xpro 15, Time uses Ceramic Speed bearings and a hollow Ti axle plus a lighter weight body. All the marginal gains get the weight down to 174 grams for the pair of pedals, thought that's not enough to make it the lightest pedal out there.

The Ride

Once installation is complete - and you will need a torque wrench to fit the cleats - the experience of riding the Time Xpro 15 pedals is not much different than other clipless pedals. Time claims a low stack height but it's very close to the competition. Time also claims high float but similar float is available with the right cleats using other systems.

The biggest difference when it comes to Time pedals, both the Xpro and Xpresso, is the ICLIC system. Think of it like a mouse trap: when disengaged from the cleat the pedal is in a ready position, and when stepping into the system it snaps shut - a process that differs from other pedals. 

Typically stepping into the Time pedal requires enough pressure to overcome the spring and open the pedal. What it means is that every time you step into the pedal there is a loud, very positive, engagement. You'll never wonder about the status of the system and it's a pleasure to use.

It's also worth mentioning that the cleats are not slick against hard floors and are easy to walk in.

Value

Normally we'd talk about what you get vs what you pay in this section. The argument for paying more is often longevity, and we can account for that here: after more than 5 years and over 20,000 miles, the Time pedals that this writer has been using are still as strong as ever.

Though that still doesn't necessarily justify the $600/£500 price tag, they do have advantages over the competition: they are lighter and more aero, they have lots of natural feeling float, and clipping in is a joy. Does that all add up to the price asked? Hard to say, but there is also a certain emotional component that's hard to price: the very best from a small French brand like Time carries a certain cache that might be worth it.

If that all rings hollow check out the Time Xpro 10. With a weight penalty of only 25 grams per pedal the Time Xpro 10 pedals are going to be almost the same experience. Steel instead of ceramic bearings and a steel instead of titanium axle brings cost down but keeps the riding experience. It also drops the price from the $600/£500 range down to a much more palatable $134.34/£103.

How do we score products? Check out the scale here.

The 'clipless' road pedal system has seen very little change from its first widespread use a few decades ago. In itself it wasn't a new technology even then, just a rehash of existing ski bindings modified for cycling. Over time the design has been refined and adapted to create the pedals we use today, yet within the modern range the principle and retention style still remains the same. Magped, a small Austrian company, thinks it has created a viable alternative in the shape of its road pedal. The principle of a pedal and shoe based retaining cleat is the same but instead of a mechanical spring and clip holding things in place Magped's take utilises the power of magnets.

Take the pedals out of the box and the first thing that strikes you is how clean and minimal the CNC machined aluminium pedal body looks. It is, of course, overshadowed by the large neodynium magnet located at the rear of the body. This sits on an elastomer to allow it to move in all planes of direction, it can also be raised or lowered to alter the retention strength. On the inside of the front cut out are two threaded bolts that can be adjusted to change the amount of float each pedal provides and to which direction this float moves, much like the adjustment found on a Speedplay pedal cleat. Magped provide a few different width spacers that you can use to alter the float amount. The whole body sits on a high-end titanium axle that spins smoothly on three sealed bearings.

The cleat is made up of two parts: a thin steel plate that attaches to your shoe via the normal three bolt attachment and a plastic cap that screws directly onto the metal plate. This cap has a circular cut out that acts as a guide for the location of the pedal as well as front facing bump stop used to limit the float according to how you have set the pedals up. One thing to note is the plastic cap isn't as grippy as a normal cleat so care should be taken on slippery surfaces.

The best road shoes for clip in pedals

How does the Magped Road pedal work?

Clipping in to the Magped pedal is a breeze and relies on the same toe first technique as you would use clipping into a 'normal' pedal. Once the cleat is close to the magnet it locates easily into the recess and provides a snug connection. Releasing is even simpler and can be done by tilting your foot sideways, twisting in the usual way or by simply pulling your foot upwards. The magnet is claimed to produce 200Nm of force or the equivalent of a 15kg pulling force and it feels pretty forceful when locating the pedal.

Who is the Magped Road pedal aimed at?

Riding with the Magped system is a curious affair and one that warrants a little more explanation as to which riders I feel the Magped pedal is aimed at. Firstly I can tell you that the Magped is not aimed at power sprinters or riders who like to mash big gears - it can be too easy to pull the cleat away from the pedal when brute force is applied as I found out pretty quickly. If you are a rider who spins smoothly and tends to ride lighter gears at higher cadences then you will, in most cases, be fine on the Magpeds.

To this end I feel that these pedals actually make a great training tool for riders wanting to develop smoother, more consistent pedalling. The other group of riders that will benefit from the Magpeds are those who have been, up until now, averse to riding clip-in pedals whether due to being relatively new to road cycling or simply not liking the feeling of being 'locked' to the bike. For these riders the ability to release from the pedal in any direction plus the ability to vary the retention power will certainly appeal.

The only sticking point I can see with the Magped road is it sits towards the top of the budget for clipless pedals so will put off a lot of the riders who might actually benefit from the design. It would be good to see Magped produce a slightly lower tier version, lose the titanium axle and replace for a steel one would be a simple way of reducing cost without impacting performance.

Want to know more about the scores on our products? Read about how we score products here.

Sitting near the bottom of Look’s road pedal range the Look Keo Classic 3 Plus pedals offer the same look and feel as its pricier carbon designs, but with a composite plastic pedal body. 

What does the Plus mean? Like Look’s more expensive models, the pedal has stainless steel inserts in its top surface, which the standard Keo Classic 3 lacks. You pay an extra £15 for these, but they should help increase your pedals’ longevity. Look says that they increment pedal stiffness and hence power transfer too.

>>> Icons of cycling: Look’s revolutionary clipless pedals

The Look Keo Classic 3 Plus pedals are the same size as the £79 Keo 2 Max, but the contact surface across the middle of the platform is a little shorter front to back: Look says its area is 500mm2 as against 600mm2. Both pedal models have more or less the same stack heights of 11.5mm for the pedal, 17.8mm for the pedal plus cleat.

Does the lower surface area make much difference? Probably not unless you’re a racer, in which case you’ll probably want to go for Look’s pricier, more aero pedals like the Keo Blade Carbon Ceramic, weighing 232g a pair. I’d expect that most carbon soled cycling shoes would be stiff enough that any difference in performance would be minimal.

At 278g a pair, the Look Keo Classic 3 Plus pedals weigh a bit more than the Keo 2 Max, which we weighed at 252g a pair. Their raw steel pedal spindles look a bit less flashy than the black ones on the Keo 2 Max too. Again, neither is going to make a material difference.

The retention system looks more-or-less identical to the pricier pedals, with two sturdy stainless steel springs and an adjustable release tension between 8 and 12Nm. It uses the same Look cleats too, weighing 66g a pair including bolts. Clipping in and out is easy and the Look cleats are a bit narrower than Shimano pedals, so they don’t protrude over the edges of your cycling shoes so much, making for a more polished look off the bike.

Price-wise the Look Keo Classic 3 Plus pedals are £11 less than Shimano’s equivalent entry level RS550 composite body pedals. They’re lighter too by 42g. You need to shell out £115 at full retail price for Shimano 105 carbon pedals, to match the Look pedals in weight.

Look’s bearings have a reputation for longevity; I’ve ridden multiple pairs of the Keo 2 Max and Keo Blade pedals over thousands of miles without any issues and I'd expect the same to be true of the Classic 3 Plus. All Look’s pedals roll off the same production lines in Nevers, France, where Look has sophisticated quality controls to make sure they’re assembled correctly.

For lower priced pedals, with added durability from the stainless steel inserts, the Look Keo Classic 3 Plus pedals are hard to fault.

It seems like as long as clipless pedals have been a thing there's been people looking for walkable road pedals. Road pedal systems range from almost completely unwalkable-in to easy enough to move around the cafe as long as you take extreme care. None of them are what I'd call easy to walk in.

In the past that meant if performance was the most important thing, you'd choose road pedals. Everyone else would choose a 2-bolt mountain bike system. This arrangement worked fine until gravel racing became a significant part of the market.

Gravel racing changed the equation. Many gravel races spend a majority of the ride feeling like a road race but interject small sections where carrying a bike is necessary. Suddenly there was a need for all out performance while still retaining walkability. Of course, this was a benefit to a much larger market than just gravel racers but it helped create a market space. Time Cyclo pedal system fits perfectly into this newly created space.

Features

When you look at the Time Cyclo it looks like a road pedal. It has the same wide platform and single sided design that is common in the road pedal market. The pedal body of the Cyclo 2 is a composite material. It's a design that would look completely alien in the context of a typical off-road pedal but hardly stands out in the road pedal market. Along the same lines, more expensive versions of the Cyclo system offer a lighter carbon bodied pedal.

Aside from the carbon pedal body the three versions of the Time Cyclo pedals, the Cyclo 10, Cyclo 6, and the Cyclo 2 I tested have a lot of similarities. There's also the same hollow steel axle paired with steel bearings and the same hex bolt tightening. The more expensive versions gain a metal strike plate and adjustable tensioning as well as a lighter weight. The Cyclo 2 weighs in at a claimed weight of 147 grams per pedal which is just a bit heavier than the top level Cyclo 10 at 128 grams. 

The main differentiator between a road and pedal and an off-road pedal is the 3-bolt or 2-bolt cleat interface. The unique feature of the Time Cyclo system is the use of a 2-bolt cleat and in this case, Time has repurposed the ATAC cleat. Brass ATAC 13 cleats come with the Cyclo 2 pedals and make for easy in and out while fitting 2-bolt shoes with a recessed cleat design. This is what makes the Cyclo system special.

In Use

The very first thing I noticed about the Time Cyclo 2 pedals was not the pedals themselves. My gravel focused shoes are not nearly as stiff as my road shoes and the design of the Cyclo pedals highlights the shoes. This follows the challenge that most people are going to run into with a pedal like this. What are you trying to do and is it really best served by a single sided road pedal paired to a mountain bike shoe?

I chose a mixed surface ride around 100 miles to test the Cyclo 2 out. About 60 miles of the ride is a paved road ride with roughly 30 miles of gravel roads and a few miles of rough logging roads. For the road ride section, I would have been better served with a road shoe and by extension, a road pedal. The logging road section I would have been better served by a double-sided pedal that was easier to step into without looking. The thirty miles of gravel road riding is where the Cyclo system shined.

Value

The Time Cyclo pedals are a good value no matter which version you choose. The most expensive Cyclo 10 (£119.99/$119.99) is only £60/$60 more than the low end Cyclo 2 priced at £59.99/$59.99. For most people the Cyclo 10 probably makes the most sense even if the performance upgrades are somewhat minimal.

Looking at the specs alone I'd likely recommend the Cyclo 2. A slightly lighter weight pedal isn't going to be a big consideration in the market the Cyclo falls into. For better or worse though Time has done a good job using a slippery slope pricing method. The Cyclo 2 doesn't have adjustable tension. To get adjustable tension you'd have to choose the £110/$110 Cyclo 6. Once you've gotten to the Cyclo 6 the 10 is only an extra £20/$20. Might as well get it.

Whichever model you choose, the Time Cyclo Pedals represent a good price for a quality pedal. 

Look has a new top of the line pedal. Apart from the Ceramic legend on the spindle, the Look Kéo Blade Carbon Ceramic pedal is superficially the same as the steel bearing options.

But inside, there are new ceramic bearings, that Look says not only reduce friction by 18% but also increase power transfer. Look says that the bearings also last between four and six times longer.

The Look Kéo Blade pedal uses a leaf spring under the pedal body to close the cleat, rather than the more conventional coil spring found in the Kéo 2 Max pedal and all of Shimano’s pedals.

Look says that this is around 40% lighter than a conventional spring – at 232g a pair, the pedal weight for the Look Kéo Blade Carbon Ceramic certainly undercuts all Shimano’s pedals except the new Dura-Ace. The (non-ceramic bearing) Blade Carbon Ti drops the weight even further by using a titanium spindle.

The Look Kéo Blade design, used in the Kéo Blade Carbon Ceramic, the Kéo Blade Carbon and the Kéo Blade Carbon Ti, comes with a 700 square millimetre engagement platform that is 67mm wide. The Ceramic and the Titanium options get a more structured stainless steel top plate with raised sections at its sides for increased stability.

There’s also an entry level Kéo Blade with a composite body, which continues the previous design.

>>> Shimano Ultegra pedal review

Although it’s hidden from view, the pedal spindle on the Kéo Blade Carbon Ceramic has been redesigned too. It comes with a new end-cap and improved double seal to the inboard side, to increase resistance to water ingress. I found that it took a few rides before the pedal body hung freely on its spindle, as the seals wore in. but Look says that the seals are IPX7 resistant to being dunked in water and IPX6 waterproof to a pressure washer.

The pedal also has an increased distance between the inboard roller bearing and the outboard needle bearing of 25%, which should add rigidity and improve power transmission. Stack height is just 14.8mm for the pedal and cleat.

Another advantage of the carbon leaf spring is that it makes for a streamlined profile to the underside of the pedal. Look’s pedals are narrower than Shimano’s. They’re a popular choice among pro cyclists, with users including Romain Bardet, the poster boy for the new Ceramic option.

>>> Buy now: Look Kéo Blade pedals (non-ceramic) for £155 from Tredz

Other advantages of the blade spring are a firmer foot hold once engaged and faster action when you unclip. You don’t get the adjustability of a coil spring though. The Look Kéo Blade Carbon Ceramic comes with a 12Nm blade fitted, a spare 16Nm blade and the specialist tools required to change them. You can buy a 20Nm version too, while the cheaper entry level Kéo Blade comes with an 8Nm and a 12Nm blade.

In practice, the 12Nm blade has quite a light engagement tension, so it’s easy to clip in. Engagement is very positive too, with an audible click, even if your cleats are a bit dirty. Clipping out seems to need a slightly different technique to other pedals and I found it took my left foot a while to get used to this. Strangely, my right foot was quite happy though.

>>> How to cycle with clipless pedals

In the dry, the Look Kéo Blade Carbon Ceramic is sweet and quiet. But on wet and muddy roads, I found that it could develop a creak when climbing or riding hard. It’s not too annoying and disappeared once I upped my cadence again, but I did start to wonder if my bottom bracket bearing was the worse for wear.

The Look Kéo Blade range uses Look’s standard cleat design. It’s available with different degrees of float. It’s narrower than a Shimano cleat, but does suffer from significant wear if you do much walking on it.

Editor’s Choice is about the best product we’ve seen throughout our year of testing. We’ve included the Shimano Ultegra pedals because as a tech team these are our go to pedals; reliable, durable, relatively lightweight and have a decent stance to help you transfer all those watts.

>>> Buy now at Evans Cycles for £89.99

Shimano Ultegra pedals shares many of the same features you find at the range topping Dura-Ace, so you'll find a carbon composite body and stainless steel spindle. The Shimano Ultegra pedals are the latest to be upgraded in Shimano’s pedal range and the changes from the older R6800 are significant.

>>> Clipless pedal systems explained

First, Shimano has decreased the pedal’s stack height by 0.7mm. Stack height is important, as it determines pedalling efficiency. It’s a tiny decrease, but it might just make your power transfer that bit more efficient.

Secondly, the width of the pedal body has increased slightly, which leads to a bit of extra foot stability. Again, it’s not something which you’re likely to notice in use but a nice step towards pedal perfection.

>>> Shimano grouspsets compared

You get the same fully enclosed tension spring as on the older Shimano Ultegra pedals, easily adjustable with a 2.5mm allen key.

Shimano has also replaced the full-width screwed down stainless steel wear protector of the R6800 model with three smaller bonded-on steel plates. This will contribute to the newer model’s small reduction in weight.

It’s unlikely that this will make any difference to long-term durability though. Although, the old Shimano Ultegra pedals' plate showed zero wear after thousands of miles and we feel the case will be the same with the updated version we have here - so far so good.

The Shimano Ultegra pedals use the same cleats as all Shimano’s other SPD-SL road pedals. They’re available with 6 degrees (with yellow tips), 2 degrees (blue) or zero float (red), depending on your preference. It is good to note that the cleats themselves are very durable and some tech testers are still using the same cleat after a year or so of heavy use.

>>> How to cycle with clipless pedals

Shimano’s pedal bearings are super-durable and very smooth. Although we haven’t had the opportunity to put a significant mileage into the new Shimano Ultegra pedals yet, their predecessors were good for thousands of miles without servicing. It’s easy to service and regrease them if you wish to though.

Swapping up to Ultegra from Shimano 105 pedals saves you around 40g a pair. But you’ll still be 20g shy of the weight of the Dura-Ace version. Mind you, saving that extra 20g will cost you £75, so on a cost per gram basis, it’s an expensive upgrade.

At full retail price, you’ll pay £40 more for a set of Shimano Ultegra pedals than for the already excellent Shimano 105 version, but you are getting the upgrades in Shimano’s latest pedal design iteration, which haven’t yet trickled down to 105.

The PD-5800 model of the Shimano 105 pedals share many of the features of the more expensive Dura-Ace and Ultegra versions.

Although they’re third level down the Shimano road pedal hierarchy, the Shimano 105 pedals benefit from the brand’s trickle down from its higher end models. 105 pedals are more akin to older versions of Dura-Ace and Ultegra, as both have recently been upgraded slightly.

>>> Shimano grouspsets compared

Shimano switched to carbon composite pedal bodies for 105 some years ago, like Ultegra and Dura-Ace. There’s a wide stainless steel plate over the centre of the pedal body to cope with wear. Even after thousands of miles’ use, there’s little sign of wear.

Shimano uses the same engagement mechanism across its entire SPD-SL road pedal range. This consists of a front pedal section that engages with the front of your pedal cleat.

>>> How to cycle with clipless pedals

At the rear, there’s a sprung clip which engages with the rear of the cleat to hold it in place. The spring is totally enclosed, so it’s not prone to the weather. You just need to lubricate the pivot points occasionally.

Pushing down with your shoe engages the cleat in the pedal and twisting your shoe sideways releases it. Engagement tension is adjustable with an allen key, to suit your riding style. In practice, even on its lightest setting, your foot is unlikely to slip out accidentally.

If you’re new to clipless pedals, engagement and disengagement can be nerve-wracking. But flipping over the pedal when you start off and taking your foot out when you come to a halt will quickly become second nature.

The pedal system is designed so that you can have a small amount of side to side float for your shoe. How much you have is determined by the cleat selected. Shimano makes a yellow cleat with 6 degrees of float, a blue one with 2 degrees and a red one with no float. Which works for you will depend on your pedalling style.

>>> The best clipless pedals

Cyclists usually aim for a low stack height for their pedals, but Shimano sells spacers to fit between the shoe and the cleat to alter the spacing. These might be useful if you have one leg longer than the other.

Shimano’s cleats are not as prone to wear as some of its competitors’ models, like Look’s, so you can expect plenty of mileage out of a set, even if you walk a lot in your cycling shoes. You should replace them once the coloured parts are worn down or engagement becomes tricky though.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e2BXOkM-wHs

Shimano cleats are wider than Look’s so they can seem a bit unwieldy on the bottom of flashy cycling shoes.

The Shimano 105 pedals come packaged with a set of yellow cleats. Replacement cleats are readily available. Shimano also sells cleat covers, to reduce cleat wear when walking and reduce the risk of slipping on smooth, hard or damp surfaces.

>>> How to pedal efficiently

Shimano 105 pedals run on a steel spindle and cartridge bearings. You need an 8mm allen key to screw them on and off your cranks (the left pedal has a left handed thread). There are no facets to use a spanner.

>>> Watch: how to service your Shimano SPD-SL pedals

You can service your Shimano 105 pedal bearings yourself if you want. But even without maintenance, they’ll run smoothly for years, without developing play. Although the £110 list price of Shimano 105 pedals looks quite expensive, they’ll give you years of use and can usually be found selling at a substantial discount if you hunt around.

Shimano's PD R550 SPD-SL pedals may hover around the bottom of Shimano's pedal pecking order, but that doesn't mean they're not good quality. In fact, they offer excellent value for money with their sturdiness and ease of use.

It's a pretty standard setup, with the pedals attaching to your bike via pedal spanner or 6mm allen key. Although it's worth bearing in mind that Shimano stresses you can't reach the necessary levels of torque (Shimano recommends 35 - 55 N-m) through just an allen key, necessitating the use of a pedal spanner.

Once they're on, spring tension is dead easy to adjust, and by using an 2.5mm allen key you turn the screw either left or right to tighten or loosen the action depending on what you're comfortable with. If you're not sure, it's always worth getting some advice on setting up cleat and pedals, so you don't end up give yourself knee pain, or being unable to release from the system.

Buy now: Shimano R550 SPD-SL pedals at Evans Cycles for £38.99

>>> How to cycle with clipless pedals

Shimano also has a useful way to avoid knee pain, and the level of float in the system (how much free foot movement there is) is determined by the colour of the cleat. So, a yellow cleat has the most (six degrees), blue (two degrees), and red which has no float at all.

Meanwhile, on the bike, these have a really nice action to them. The pedals feel super secure, allowing you to put down the power without worrying about pulling out of the mechanism. Plus, they're weighted in such a way that when you unclip at a stop they roll backwards, sitting in a much better position for clipping back in. An action that comes with a reassuring and heavy clunk, so you know your safely in.

Watch: How to fit and remove your pedals

They feel great underneath your feet, and this is something that I personally prefer with Shimano's SPD-SL system over others such as Look. The marginally larger Shimano pedals give more space to rest your feet compare to competitors and it makes a big difference. On long rides it doesn't feel like your resting on pins, instead having a comfortable platform that supports your feet.

>>>Shimano 105 SPD SL pedals review

Despite being in a hard wearing area, the longevity of the cleats is brilliant, especially when compared to competitors. While the plastic tabs might wear down, this doesn't compromise the performance of the product.

Buy now: Shimano R550 SPD-SL pedals at Evans Cycles for £38.99

Longevity elsewhere isn't an issue, either, especially considering the axles turn on sealed bearings.  Certainly over the last three months of the British winter and springtime i've had no problems with their performance and they're still turning smooth today.

Crankbrothers’ Eggbeater pedal system scores over other two-bolt pedal systems for cyclo-cross in having four points of engagement rather than just two. One of the sets of engagement surfaces is sprung relative to the other, which itself is fixed to the pedal spindle. This should make engagement easier when remounting, while the simple design results in much less opportunity for clogging.

>>> Cyclocross bike buyer's guide (video)

It does have a disadvantage too though: engagement tension cannot be altered, although you can change the disengagement angle between 15 degrees and 20 degrees by swapping the left and right cleats with each other.

I found engagement could be a bit imprecise once my shoes had got a bit muddy on the bottom and it needed a different foot motion depending on whether the fixed or sprung pedal bar was at the front. This rather cancelled out the benefit of the four-way engagement and the pedal’s resistance to mud build-up: I sometimes found I was kicking out mud on the pedal edge and flipping the pedal through 90 degrees with my foot to try to obtain engagement.

>>> Adventure road and gravel bikes: a buyer's guide

Watch: How to fit and remove pedals

But once engaged, the pedal-shoe interface felt secure and stable and I never suffered from unwanted disengagement despite the low release tension. If you want a larger pedal surface area, Crankbrothers makes the Candy, which includes a pedal body built around the same engagement mechanism.

>>> Clipless pedals: which system is best for you?

Release was always accurate and precise, so dismounts were achieved without fuss. And the Eggbeater does look smart and businesslike. It’s well finished, resistant to wear and tear and not prone to rust.

Time’s pedal system has become the also-ran of the road bike pedal market, which is dominated by Shimano, Look and Speedplay. However, its Xpresso pedals are still going strong and the range includes the ultra-light 133g-a-pair Xpresso 15. At £400 these are a bit extravagant, but the Xpresso 6 is more reasonably priced and weighs just 80g a pair more.

>>> Which pedal system is best for you?

For that price, the Xpresso 6 offers a long composite plastic body with a large engagement surface and a carbon blade spring to handle clipping in. Time says that its pedals also have a low stack height. As well as angular float, they also provide 2.5mm of side-to-side float to suit different pedalling styles.

>>> The best cycling clipless pedals

The iClic engagement system is pretty easy to get the hang of. The carbon blade spring rests in the open position, so unlike other road clipless pedal systems you don’t have to push against the spring’s tension to engage the cleat. Once the cleat is aligned, the blade spring just flips to mesh with the rear of the cleat – usually but not always with an audible click.

The rear engagement surface is shorter than Shimano’s and I wasn’t always certain that I’d engaged correctly. You have to get used to presenting the cleat at the correct angle for positive engagement.

But once properly clicked in the pedals give a firm, confident hold. A previous reviewer had cut his leg on the sharp edges of the pedal’s front engagement surface, but I never found this a problem.

>>> How to pedal efficiently

Although other pedal makers offer a carbon body rather than composite from around the price of the Xpresso 6s, I didn’t find Time’s plastic felt any less solid. There’s a wide metal plate on the top of the pedal on which the centre of the cleat rests, giving good pedal-to-cleat contact. Disengagement with an outward or inward twist of the foot is drama-free too.

Watch: How to fit and remove pedals

The cleat itself is longer and narrower than a Shimano SPD-SL cleat. The extra length is due to the side supports being set further back, which protects the engagement surface better. But it does mean that getting some overshoes over the cleat is a bit more difficult, as their apertures are usually designed around Shimano-sized cleats. This doesn’t get in the way of pedal engagement though.

Overall I’ve been impressed with Time’s road pedals. There’s quite a lot of flexibility built into the design, so you’re likely to find them comfortable, although not the possibility to alter float and engagement tension which Shimano and Look offer.

Exustar may be a new name to a lot of readers but the company has been steadily building a reputation for providing excellent value clipless pedals. The catchily titled Exustar E-PR2 pedals combine a wide, durable thermoplastic body with a Look Keo compatible cleat.

Upon opening you are given the option of a ‘normal’, 6° float cleat plus a set of fixed position cleats. Straight from the box the Exustar E-PR2 pedals have lovely smooth bearings with not a hint of play or roughness.

>>> Buyer's guide to the best clipless pedals

When fitted to the bike they sit proudly nose upwards, giving a large target for the front of the cleat to hit when riding away from the lights. Spring tension is adjustable with a 3mm Allen key and even on its lowest setting, provided your cleats are in good condition, unclipping accidentally whilst riding is almost impossible.

Watch: how to fit your cleats

The Exustar E-PR2 pedals have a chunky, wide body but for some reason didn’t feel as stable as some of the other systems when applying power, almost as if the interface between cleat and pedal was not completely flat. I’m also a little concerned by the longevity of the body material as it lacks a metal shield as typically found on pedals with a thermoplastic construction. Wear could already be noticed after only a few hours of use. The good news is the pedal can be rebuilt easily, so excess wear of the body might not necessitate throwing them away

>>> How to fit and remove clipless bike pedals (video)

The other big sticking point for a lot of riders is they are only available in white. The Exustar E-PR2 pedals started to look rather worn even after the first couple of rides; a black option would be preferable.

As said at the start, Exustar provides both fixed and floating cleats which is a nice touch, although the fact that the majority of riders will never touch the fixed cleats means providing two sets of floating cleats would be a better option. Cleat wear is on par with the proprietary Look KEO version, for most riders this could be up to a year at least (providing you limit the walking!) and the cleats have a grippier compound on the face to reduce the likelihood of slipping over when walking.

For more details visit Exustar.

Following last week's Tech Talk concerning Time's new pedal range, we thought we'd follow up with a word on how they perform.

Mike has been a regular (ab)user of Time pedals, so he seemed like the ideal person to give them a hammering, and thus far, all is good.

The cleat is the same on the previous I-clic pedals, so that made fitting simple.

Getting into the Xpressos wasn't quite as easy, as the pedal refuses to hang, suggesting substantially better bearing seals.

Using the same casting as the Wellgo pedal, it's hard to visually tell the difference at first, but the One23 has a slightly better finish, and a swift turn of the axle lets you know that this is the more refined model.

It follows the same footprint as the Look Keo pedal system - a cheaper alternative, but in saving pounds, you add them to your ride.

This system is much heavier than the Keo Classic, at 328g.

Not all road pedals use a three-hole bolt system - the Ritchey uses two.

The Pro V4 Micro uses a cleat very similar to an MTB one, and as a consequence needs matching shoes to fit the two-bolt system - check that your shoes conform.

Made using the alloy casting process, like a few of the others here, this time the foot platform is so small that the weight is significantly less; in fact, is the lightest on test (210g).

Offering a solid pedalling platform, there is no feeling of pressure being concentrated in one area.

Constructed using a plastic resin body makes this the second lightest on test (244g).

Despite having minimal lateral float, it also has angular float and even more adjustment, allowing you to modify how close your foot is to the crank arm, so you can really get a very personal set-up.

It's taken us a long time to review the I-Clic pedals for a host of reasons.

First off we were sent pre-production versions that weren't rideable, then Time recalled the cleats as it became apparent they wore too fast. So it was a slow start.

The rushed release isn't a surprise as the concept is such a major step forwards and beats the Look carbon spring hands down, but the devil is in the detail.

The use of a ‘switch' to close the cleat is inspired as it should make for a far easier entry, yet in reality it does regularly get hung up, requiring two attempts to get it closed. We still think the wear of the cleat is too fast but it is in line with the opposition.

With the main body constructed from lightweight magnesium, plus titanium spindles, the Look Keo-styled Xpedo Thrust pedals weigh a scant 190g per pair.

There's more than just an aesthetic similarity - the Xpedos are compatible with Look's Keo cleats, keeping life simple if you're already using that type of pedal. Three bearings per pedal should ensure durability and our test set is still turning as smooth as silk after plenty of miles.

Not much care has been taken with the finish of the pedal body, with visible casting imperfections and we suspect over time, the glossy, pearl-white paintjob will get tatty, especially through winter.

Also the supplied cleats are not up to the quality of the Look equivalents - more brittle, so take care when tightening the bolts, and we'd recommend not walking too far on them.

The key concept of Look's new range-topping pedal is replacing the standard-wound steel retention spring with a carbon blade leaf spring.

Engagement is very positive, but the weaker 12Nm springs released too easily for my liking, so a swap to the 16Nm was required. This is the only alternative if you want a stronger retention spring, but I still felt I could still have done with a smidge more - was it so hard to include a tiny tension adjust screw? I miss the ability to fine tune.

The pedals are incredibly light. Our test set weighed under the stated 95g per pedal, at 180g for the pair. The wider body provides a huge contact patch, with a 60mm wide stainless steel platform, which will resist wear and gives you a really reassuring feeling under cleat. They've got that bit spot on. The oversized titanium axles are another welcome addition, strengthening the pedals against flex, which helps both power transfer and improves bearing life.