Destinations for an off-season cycling holiday are more limited than the glowing myriad of mid-summer escapes - but with highs of 24°C in November, and highs of 21°C in January and February, the 'Eternal Spring' of the Canary Islands represent an obvious choice.

Tenerife is a popular late season get-away, but images of climbing the same volcano six ways might not appeal to everyone - and daydreams of black sand shores could be an understandable deterrent of Lanzarote.

Gran Canaria, comparatively, lures riders with the promise of yellow beaches and varied terrain.

Why go cycling in Gran Canaria?

Gran Canaria is geographically pretty intense. For a country with a circumference of 235km there's a lot going on and boredom is unlikely to creep in - this is why it is one of the best cycling holiday destinations in Europe. 

Around 50 per cent of the island has been a part of UNESCO’s list of World Biosphere Reserves since 2005, thanks to the mixture of flora and fauna taking its home there. Expect to see birds of prey circling the mountain tops and look out for more than the common lizard.

Desert landscapes (accompanied by camel rides) sit beside gigantic forests of pine and there's enough moisture to support a Botanical garden, admittedly with a little help from the garden fairies.

It's a popular destination for cycling brands to use for photoshoots, too. The weather is (nearly) always fine - so models don't need to pair summer kit with a fake grin plastered on their numb lips, and the cliff-corridors make for excellent images as riders thread through towering rocks on either side, too.

Five things you can expect to find when cycling in Gran Canaria

Cycling Weekly took a week long trip to the island - just to bring you back a report (and because we wanted a holiday). Here's what we found...

1. Steep ramps and nameless climbs

Elsewhere - Mallorca is a good example - most climbs have a name, kilometre markers and a 'victory' sign at the top for cyclists (bloated with pride and energy gels) to pose next to.

The volcanic landscape of Gran Canaria means that the roads naturally wind towards the peaks, and there's a lot of pretty brutal climbs with no discernible or 'official' name.

The warning sign was that the road from our holiday home had its own Strava segment, and yielded at least one wheel spin daily.

The three-minute and 30-second ordeal (that would soon become very familiar) dispatched, on our first ride we headed up the "Cl-12-6 Climb" to La Culata, leaving from Trejo.

The road peaked up to 20 per cent in the first kilometre of eight, and the stinging ramps were made a lot harder by the rutted road surface which continued most of the way to the top.

We passed only one other human along the way - clearly this wasn't a well-visited road. Of course, the view at the top was well worth the toil - but it was an early sign that we were to expect some testing terrain during our stay.

2. Some of the roads are stunningly smooth (and some of them are not)

Our second ride of the week represented a major shift - from rutted roads to smooth tarmac. The route saw us climbing steadily from Santa Lucia to Temisas, dropping down to Agümes and then working our way back via the GC-65/GC-60 duo.

The roads on this 45 km excursion (with a claimed 2,050 metres of elevation) seemed to feature not a single road defect: not a pebble out of line, atop of glass like tarmac. The climb was relatively smooth and steady, too - easy ~five per cent sections followed by swooping descending bends and power ramps that made for a crit racer's paradise playground.

The steep ramps of our first day appeared to be wholly unrepresentative, at this point.

The conclusion we eventually arose at was that the roads that are frequented by cars are smooth, well maintained, with gentle inclines.

Elsewhere - such as the ascent of day one (and the Valley of the Tears, below) - expect double figure percentages, and craters in the tarmac ready to snatch at your wheels.

3. The diversity is exhilarating

The best example of the island's incredible variety of geography would be our 'Roque Nublo' loop.

This began with the 25km climb to the highly visited monument - which harks back to the second eruption which formed the island - and back down the other side.

Soon after leaving our home for the week in Trejo, we passed through the cobbled streets of St Bartolome de Tirajana - a great place to stop if you're climbing from sea level.

Here the terrain was still characterised by rock formations and desert-esque heat. The GC-60 road that took us most of the way was well paved, and relatively steady for around 16km, followed by a steeper, switchback laden section after a right turn to the GC-600.

Passing the rock itself (which was largely flanked by coaches, unfortunately), we found ourselves weaving through fragrant pine forests. The life around us had suddenly and completely transformed from a dusty paradise to an equally evocative but totally different landscape, bristling with vibrancy.

Later in the week we'd discover this haven of green up high is largely made possible by significantly more rain than would be encountered further down the mountain.

There was a brief respite in the shape of some flat roads at the top, too, from which you could just make out Tenerife and Mount Teide.

4. You need to ride the Valley of the Tears

'The Valley of the Tears' (VOTT) is meant to be the must-do ride in Gran Canaria, so obviously we had to do it. Unfortunately, the weather played quite a role in our day.

I'd read fear inspiring blog posts describing 25 per cent ramps in the early stages of the 12km/7mile climb, and frankly I didn't believe them. That's until my legs were shaking and the uneven surface made holding the bike upright a struggle.

Around 25km in, the air around us became wet. First, just a gentle mist, then spitting. Somewhere around the 30km mark we had to admit this had become face slapping horizontal blizzard rain.

Stopping in Artenara we tried to camp out in a bar, whilst tourists in duffle coats carrying umbrellas got off their temperature regulated coaches and ambled bleakly around.

After several turns under the hand dryer, we admitted the rain wasn't going to stop any time soon, and that home was equally far in either direction. So we stuffed our jerseys with newspaper and re-mounted en route to this god-forsaken crying valley.

Despite the rain, our numb hands and the kamikaze dog which tried to take us out, the huge pillars of rock either side and the scenes down to the valley were formidable and magnificent in equal measure.

With the start of the climb about a mile away, the sun came out. Ish.

The climb gains 1007 metres/3303ft over the course of 12km/7miles long. At the bottom, we could only look up and swear a little at the sight of turn upon turn of what looked like semi-vertical road.

The first 3km were a real test of brute force. Cadence was out the window - just getting up the switchbacks was a task on its own, let alone doing anything quickly. I'll admit I felt some concern that my slow speed coupled with the holes in the surface might see me simply topple over.

However, the gradient did level out, and there was more descending along the way than I expected. Granted, each was followed by a kick in the quads as retribution for enjoying a secret freewheel, but at least there was variety.

I can safely say this was the most leg-shakingly brutal climb I've ever done.

The preceding rain somehow helped to make it less painful, though, I was almost glad for the trial since I could celebrate the feeling coming back to my hands as much as curse the road.

Strava's 'corrected elevation' (basemap) claims that this 51-mile ride accumulated 16,525 ft of climbing.

5. You should probably ride the Pico de las Nieves

Variable weather during our final three days meant we never got round to this one. No one wants to find themselves half way up a brute of a mountain, unable to gain traction on the surface.

However, at 44km and a claimed 2278 metres, it's a known monster. The surface is said to be much like that of the Valley of the Tears. It's on our to-do list for future...

Points to be aware of...

• We found the roads seemed to go up and down, which works fine for small groups and means route planning is pretty easy, but could present a problem for club runs made up of diverse abilities. There might be a few more flat roads if you stay at the coast, though. Maybe.
• It's worth noting that wall-to-wall sun at sea level does not always translate to the same up high: as evidenced by our VOTT day, the weather in the mountains was diverse during our stay. Of seven we had three wet days - so a packable and arm warmers are well advised.
• The Gran Canarians like their guard dogs - the scariest of which was a black bulldog, staccato barking whilst carrying a rusty chain around its neck (which was reassuringly attached to nothing).

Where to stay in Gran Canaria

Most of Gran Canaria's tourists seem to go south, congregating around Maspalomas/Playa del Ingles for sun, beaches and beer or Puerto de Mogán for the first two but with more coffee and cake.

We weren't seeking mega miles, so we opted to stay further north, to avoid climbing from sea level daily - selecting Trejo (specifically 'Kasalvaro' via Airbnb).

Accommodation - like a lot of things - was cheap in October; of course that's subjective but it was less than the flight cost.

Flying to Gran Canaria from the UK

Flight time from Gatwick to Gran Canaria airport in Las Palmas was four hours, via the orange flying carpet of EasyJet. We took our own bikes (£45 each, each way). British Airways always flys the route now, allowing riders to take a bike as hold luggage for free.

If you choose to rent, Free Motion seem to have the monopoly.

The airport is in the North, but it took us just 45 minutes to drive to Trejo; Maspalomas is 32km away though allow time to navigate the twisty mountain roads.

Other stuff to do in Gran Canaria

Visit Maspalomas

Maspalomas/Playa del Ingles are as south as it gets and there you'll find everything from sand dune strewn beaches to fashion shopping, camel rides, snorkelling, jeep tours and nightclubs.

We visited for an afternoon and evening, parked up and headed to the sea to play front-of-house wack-a-mole with the 100 eager to please waiters pouncing from restaurants along the sea front, eventually opting for Aquario who tempted us in with fresh fish that turned out to be pretty good.

Point of note: we returned to a parking ticket - but the fine for not paying the €3 charge was only €1.80. It turns out you need to look harder for the pay machines.

Visit Puerto de Mogán

Puerto de Mogán is a sea-side town with expanses of blue and yellow sand and a backdrop of imposing rock.

All of the literature says this is the place to come for a romantic couples break, and it's true. It's the scones and china cups to Maspalonas' chips; it's Bourbon over beer and Bacardi.

The houses beside the port seem to be attached by bridges dripping with cascaded of flowers - none of which I could capture because the sun was always shining too brightly down the corridors of homes.

It was the perfect place for a game of afternoon coffee shop pub golf.

The Home Bakery won hands down, with walls adorned with the familiar 'dance like nobody is watching' trio of expressions (plus more) and cream topped espresso.

If you're looking for a more active visit than we were, there's a plethora of water sports going on here, with everything from jet skis to pedalo hire..

Go walking

About half of the island is part of UNESCO’s list of World Biosphere Reserves - and there's a lot of it that can be explored on foot.

A quick jaunt from our place took us ambling through red-rock lined trails, and travelling up to Roque Nublo we found trails stacked up like the layers of a cake; fireroads snake around the mountain and you could easily spend days exploring just this small portion.

The months from February through to April are ideal for heading off on a cycling holiday. For many that means heading to the mountains, maybe in the Canary Islands, Mallorca or around Girona or the Costa Blanca, where the weather should be warmer, the roads smoother and emptier and there's the opportunity to up their fitness with some longer climbs than found in the UK.

Back-to-back mountain days can be tiring though, so it's worth being prepared and knowing how to tackle a proper mountain climb that may last for 20 or 30 kilometres, what to expect and how to get back down again safely.

1. Prepare in advance

A long climb is all about measuring your effort so that you don't blow up mid-way. Understanding your FTP (functional threshold power, the power you can hold for an hour) is vital and, even if you don't have a power meter, knowing the effort you can sustain and taking steps to improve it will stand you in good stead in the real mountains.

Sessions such as the infamous 2x20, where you complete two 20 minute efforts at around FTP, separated by a five to 10 minute break are a great place to start, or split it up into four 10 minute efforts to get started. If you can find a long enough hill, doing these on a gradient outside will make them even more relevant.

To prepare for steep sections, try short, sharp hill reps - these will act as a more anaerobic effort and help fire up the muscles you'll need to get over any steep ramps.

These sessions will take it out of you a bit, so make sure they're interspersed with easy recovery rides or rest days and give yourself a taper before you head off on your holiday.

2. Don't exhaust yourself before the climbing starts

A big part of pacing your effort occurs before the climbing even starts. Sometimes riders who know they're weaker on the climbs like to motor along the flat on the way out. But the result is usually that the climbing experts arrive at the bottom of the ascent fresh as a daisy, and those who are less adept are already tired.

If you're not a climber, don't feel afraid to sit on a wheel and save your legs, unless you've actually made some sort of team pact to play on each others' strengths.

3. Know your limits

If you're preparing for a busy race season, it's healthy to enter into a bit of competition with your mates.

However, pick your battles sensibly. There's no point going into the red to hold on to a wheel for 10 minutes, if it's going to leave you grovelling for a further 50 once the elastic snaps.

Ideally, you'll know about how long the climb is and about what heart rate or power you can sustain for that duration. If you're happy to suffer, go for it and ride above and below that throughout to see who weakens first, but if you want to secure the best time you personally can, hold it steady.

Don't be afraid to be dropped. You may find that once the speed merchants tire you'll come back to them and pass them - it's a strategy used by many racers. Geraint Thomas and Chris Froome are proponents and you can't argue that it hasn't worked for them.

4. Stay positive

Climbing well is just as much a mental battle as it is a physical one.

If you're smashing it up with friends, remember they're hurting as much as you (probably). If it's a solo battle, keep breathing deeply and hold on to that steady rhythm, try and relax your upper body whilst keeping your power and heart rate within the sustainable zone.

If you simply want to reach the top, then you really just need to keep your mind in a positive place - keep spinning and take some time to look around you, it's likely you're surrounded by views you won't get to enjoy at home.

5. Vary your position

Whether you're more comfortable in or out the saddle often comes down to body composition.

Regardless of your chosen style, aim to get out the saddle every few minutes, even just for a few pedal strokes to stretch your back and hamstrings out and work a different muscle set.

6. Take advantage of any flatter sections

Usually, somewhere along the way there will be a few metres of mirage-worthy descent. Use this to your advantage. If you're feeling good and want to make up time on your friends (or the Strava leaderboard), feel free to push on. If you're tired, ease up and keep your legs spinning a low gear to clear out the fatigue.

Resist the urge to stop pedalling altogether, as this will lock your legs up and make turning the corner into the unavoidable ramp feel a lot worse.

7. Keep your nutrition and hydration levels up

When you're working at less than around 70 to 80 per cent of maximum heart rate (the threshold varies between riders), your body can access fat as a fuel source, and the supply of calories from body fat is almost infinite, even in lean athletes. As soon as you go above that safe zone, you body needs glycogen in the form of carbohydrates to fuel the activity.

Humans can store around 1,800 to 2,000 calories of carbs. Once they're gone, if you try to exercise over the magic threshold, you'll bonk. On a climb, you'll most likely be in this zone and therefore you need to keep topping up with carbs. A large serving will sit heavy in your stomach, so eat little and often.

Hydration is equally important, especially if you've just arrived somewhere hotter and drier than the UK and US. Keep drinking, again little and often, and refill your bottles when you get the chance, even if that does mean more weight to carry up the mountain.

8. Bring enough layers

Whilst temperatures might be soaring at the bottom of  the climb, by the time you get to the top you'll have added many metres to your elevation, and it often gets pretty cold. You may encounter snow at the top of a climb even in April or May and the weather in the mountains can change quickly too; one minute you may be in warm sun, the next in a sleet shower.

Take a gilet or packable jacket and arm warmers with you, so you can pop these on at the top ready for the rewarding descent. It's easy to lose concentration if you're cold and shivering. 

9. Make time for recovery

If you're riding for multiple consecutive days, make sure you rest up and recover well on your return from your ride.

Eat a good mix of carbohydrates, to replace your glycogen stores, and protein to aid muscle repair. Get your feet up, and think about booking a light sports massage around mid-way through your holiday/training camp.

10. Ace your descending

Riding down a switchback laden descent is just as much an art as riding up it, only you'll be travelling at a much higher speed.

If possible, find some shorter descents to practise on before you leave, taking care to hit the apex of corners.

Far too many riders get carried away, taking the racing line, even if it means drifting over into the other side of the road on corners. This really isn't worth the risk and puts you and your friends in danger as well as oncoming traffic. Although many descents abroad have the benefit of much better sight lines than roads in the UK, it's not always the case.

Stay within your limits, enjoy the view and the recovery time!

The spring cycling holiday - or training camp (just, make sure you're clear with all involved which one this is!) - is a well-maintained tradition in cycling. Getting some sunny miles in before the summer kicks off is a great way of building fitness and awakening some excitement for the months ahead as well as building relationships with club and teammates.

The European roads often boast a glass-like smoothness and as a result the miles seem to whizz by – even when there are some pretty substantial climbs along the way.

Speaking of climbs – the ones you’ll find adorning most popular cycling holiday locations are much longer than any you’ll find in the UK. These create the perfect opportunity for focused training, with threshold efforts up the climbs and the descents lend a perfect opportunity to (safely) put your skills to the test.

Cycling holidays in Spain

Spain is a favourite early season destination for the pros and you might find yourself rubbing shoulders with a team in your hotel or passed by them on the roads around the mainland cycling hotspots of Girona, Calpe and Denia (see below). There's also Mallorca or the Canary Islands if you fancy an island getaway. 

Snow may prevent you from heading to the big mountains in the Pyrenees, the Sierra Nevada or the centre, but snow-free coastal climbs are usually easily accessible and can provide plenty of challenge both on road and on gravel and there's flatter riding as well for recovery days.

In the summer and autumn, much of Spain can be too hot for comfortable cycling, though the Basque country and northern coast remain temperate.

We've provided details of some of our favourite Spanish hotspots below.

Recommended time to visit: February, March, April

Read more: Best cycling holidays in Spain

Cycling holidays in Denia/Calpe

Both Calpe and Denia are located on the Mediterranean coast of mainland Spain, on the Costa Blanca stretch and about 35km apart from each other.

Like Mallorca, both areas are incredibly well set up for cyclists, with pretty much anything you could need available in case you run into trouble and need replacement parts or servicing.

There's also a wide range of terrains, with notable climbs as well as flat lands for those easy spins home. When off the bike, there's long stretches of sandy beaches to explore.

Read more: Cycling Weekly guide to cycling in Denia and Calpe

Good to know: Denia has proved popular with pro teams in the last few years. If you're in the area, make sure you check out Cafe Ciclista - where you'll find all the refreshments you could want, plus three weekly rides where you could pick up a little route planning inspiration. Sit in the cafe and you can admire the scrawl of assorted cyclists - from pros to local hitters - adorning the walls, as every visitor is encouraged to leave their mark. 

Recommended time to visit: February to April, spring temperatures feature highs between 20-23ºC, winter temperatures are around 14-16ºC.

Cycling holidays in Girona, Spain

This Catalonian city is home to a high number of professional cyclists - and it's easy to see why. 

As well as boasting plenty of climbs including the 10km Rocacorba, 11km Els Angels and 10km Sant Hilari, Girona itself is famous for having a bustling social scene with plenty of cafes for refuelling and bars for evening entertainment. 

Gravel riding is also on offer and flight time is about two hours.

Read more: Cycling Weekly guide to cycling in Girona

Good to know: The Service Course is a bike shop in Girona - but it's a lot more than that. Services on offer include guided rides on the roads known only to locals (many of them pros), full-on training camps, massage and airport transfers.

Recommended time to visit: November to May, highs of 14-23ºC November to May

Cycling holidays in Mallorca, Spain

Popular with pros an amateurs alike, Mallorca is the largest of Spain's Balearic Islands. Riders often stay in Port de Pollença or Alcudia.

There are loads of tour companies, as well as hotels well set up for cyclists and plenty of bike hire facilities and shops.

Another reason for Mallorca's popularity is that the terrain is perfectly distributed - there are plenty of flat lands, rolling foothills and demanding climbs of 10-20km including Sa Calobra, Puig Major and Coll de Soller.

Read more: Cycling Weekly guide to cycling in Mallorca

Good to know: Once a year the Mallorca 312 takes over the island. You can choose to ride 312, 225 or 167km. The long route used to circle the entire island, but it now runs across the North and West, avoiding Palma, and allowing for closed road sections. 

Recommended time to visit: February to April, spring temperatures feature highs between 16-20ºC, though there's a slight risk of surprise snow on the earlier end of this period.

Cycling holidays in Lanzarote, Canary Islands

This Spanish island is the most Easterly of the Canary Islands - meaning it's just 125km off the African coast, which means it's pretty warm and you'll not be risking any chance of snow as is the case elsewhere, e.g. in Mallorca.

The challenge Lanza presents is the wind - average wind speeds sit at about 11mp/h or 18km/h across the year - and can be much higher. Ideal for learning to utilise the bunch!

Volcanic landscape provides plenty of undulating roads, as well as some major climbs. The climb to do is the Monte Corona - which is about 10km at 4 per cent, and Femes, which features three different ascent options all around 5-6km and 6 per cent.

Good to know: Apologies if you're not into preceding a ride with a swim or following it with a run, but this island is home to Ironman Lanzarote - one of the most established triathlon races in Europe. The 182km bike course covers 2,551 metres of climbing, and can be followed at any time - with or without the swim and run.

Recommended time to visit: December to April, highs of 20-24ºC in Spring

Cycling holidays in Tenerife, Spain

The largest of Spain's seven Canary Islands, Tenerife's temperate climate has earned it the name ‘Isla de la Eterna Primavera’ - the island of the eternal spring.

At the centre of the island is Mount Teide volcano and atop it is the Parador Hotel, a popular hold up for pro cyclists wanting to sleep at altitude.

The climb itself is the longest continuous ascent in Europe. In 35km you'll cover 2,100 metres of elevation. The altitude will get to you are the top, but there are plenty of opportunities to keep to the lower roads. The island's road circumference is just 223 miles, so it's hard to get lost.

Read more: Cycling Weekly guides to cycling in Tenerife and closely related, Gran Canaria

Good to know: The Parador hotel has been used by a number of pro cyclists. It's located on the plateau at the top of Mount Teide, meeting the ‘sleep high, train low’ criteria. Bradley Wiggins first stayed there in 2011, though since it's also been used by Lance Armstrong, not all riders are keen to share an association.

Recommended time to visit: November through to May, spring temperatures feature highs between 20-23ºC

Cycling holidays in Nice, French Alps

Nice might be on the seafront, but it's a stone's throw from some great riding. The Col d'Eze is often the finale of Paris-Nice in the spring. It's a day ride along the coast to Menton and the start of the Col de la Madone, beloved testing ground of Lance Armstrong where he proved that his pre-race preparations had given him the edge.

Further inland, things go up and down continually, with fantastic climbing like the Col de Turini and Montee de Peille. Being on the coast, Nice remains mild in the winter, but the hills in the hinterland can be savagely cold.

You can expect to be passed by plenty of pros too, with many basing themselves in Monaco.

Good to know: There's plenty of bike rental available in Nice, including at clothing brand Cafe du Cycliste's HQ in the Vieux Port. Cycle three different ways up the Col de Turini and they'll give you a badge for the Zinzins de Turini. 

Recommended time to visit: Highs of 15-20ºC March to May

Cycling holidays in Morzine, French Alps

Well known for its mountain biking pedigree, Morzine also an excellent place to ride a road bike.

It's also just nudging the border to Switzerland - a beautiful but much more expensive place to stay and visit, yet aboard a bicycle passing into the country is of course free.

The resort towns of Morzine and Avoriaz are dotted with hotels and chalets, the vast majority of them set up for outdoor sports and as welcoming to bicycles as they are to snowy boots and skis.

The roads are varied, with plenty of flat and undulating stretches, as well as hairpin-laden climbs such as Avoriaz (14km, 6 per cent), Col de Joux Plane (11km, 9 per cent), Col de la Ramaz (16km, 6 per cent) and Col de la Joux Vert (15km, 6 per cent).

Good to know: There are loads of great rental chalets in the area, many of which you can just book yourself and DIY your trip. If you're after the guided ride experience, 44South is run by a group of UK riders who moved to the area a few years ago. They can put you up, show you the area, and cook your meals if you go full board.

Recommended time to visit: Highs of 16-18ºC May to September

Cycling holidays in the Pyrenees, France (and Spain)

The Pyrenees mountain range stretches for over 430km between Spain and France. We've talked enough about Spain, and Cycling Weekly team members have enjoyed some incredible cycling holidays in France so we're sticking with this side for now.

Many of the famous climbs have been visited by the Tour de France on multiple occasions. Ascents include the Aubisque (30km at 4 per cent or 16km at 7 per cent), Tourmalet (18km at 8 per cent) and Hautacam (16km at 7 per cent).

As usual with mountainous areas, the Pyrenees are cooler than the lowlands, at least at the top, and so make a good summer cycling destination.

Read more: Cycling Weekly guide to cycling in the Pyrenees 

Good to know: If you're after a mega challenge, check out the Haute Route's Pyrennes adventure. Over five days, you'll cover the very best of the area, with full support.

Recommended time to visit: Highs of 14-24ºC March to October

Cycling holidays in the Dolomites, Italy

The Dolomites are one of the most famous mountain ranges in the world, with spectacular scenery and some terrific climbing. Its roads often see the climax of the Giro d'Italia, with roads like the Passo Giau, Passo Fedaia and Passo Pordoi the backdrop.

Cycling Weekly has tested out the ski resort of Alta Badia, close to all three, where you'll find plenty of bike-ready accommodation and hire shops to furnish your needs. The roads here are very rarely flat - they go up, or down. 

As with all alpine destinations, the passes can be snowed in from October/November through to May, leaving a fairly limited window for the cyclist.

The alternative to the Dolomites is the region around Bormio, where you'll find yet more famous Giro passes including the Passo dello Stelvio, the 24km Gavia and the Mortirolo which features inclines as steep as 18 per cent over its 12km stretch.

Read more: Cycling Weekly guide to cycling in the Dolomites

Good to know: The area is keen to promote cycling, with the Sella Ronda Bike day and Dolomites Bike Day now annual events where roads are closed to cars and free for cyclists to enjoy. Both of these events are very inclusive and welcoming to all, you'll come across competitive racers as well as e-bikers taking in the view. 

Those after a challenge might fancy the Maratona dles Dolomites, taking place in early July and covering 138km with 4230 metres of climbing (shorter courses are available).

Recommended time to visit: Highs of 15-23ºC March to May, 11-19ºC  October-November

Cycling holidays in Tuscany, Italy

Tuscany is an Italian cycling hotspot, with the pros taking on the Strade Bianche in the spring and Tuscany also the home to L'Eroica sportive, with thousands of riders on bikes built before 1988 and suitably retro clothing taking to the white roads.

Whilst roads elsewhere in Europe are celebrated for their sublime smoothness, Tuscany instead takes its fame for the white dirt roads which lace between the tarmac. However, the region covers over 22,000 km squared, and varies dramatically across its expanse.

You don't need to take on the gravel roads though, with many tarmac climbs in the region being long and challenging and little flat ground between them. Think the Derbyshire Peak District.

Summer temperatures climb to 30ºC, but visit between October and November for highs between 16-22 May ºC, or March to May for 16-23ºC.

Read more: Cycling Weekly guide to riding in Tuscany 

Good to know: Cycling Weekly visited Tuscany during a fortnight long road trip, staying at a number of towns along the way. We found excellent value hire bikes just outside Siena at DFBikes, and explored some stunningly smooth and testing roads in the area. Heading off-road, we also picked up hire bikes at a riding stables within the Monti Sibillini National Park - though lack of competition meant the price tag on a few hours aboard a pretty outdated set of wheels was high - but the scenery made up for it.

Recommended time to visit: October and November highs of 16-22 May ºC, or March to May for 16-23ºC

Cycling holidays in Belgium

Belgium is home to some of the most high profile bike races in the world like the Tour of Flanders, not to mention its winter cyclocross scene. The early season Classics can be as much a test of riders' mettle as their fitness and a trip to Belgium in the spring can be as challenging for the weather as for the riding.

Belgian weather is much like that in the UK, so if you're looking for better conditions, it might be worth waiting for the summer or early autumn. 

Terrain varies greatly, there are plenty of flat stretches in the north whilst you'll find the hills and cobbled climbs ridden by the pros in the south.

The famous cobbles will present their own challenge, and climbs to look out for include the Koppenberg (600 metres, 11.6 per cent average, 22 per cent max) and Oude Kwaremont (2.2km, average 4.2 per cent average, 11 per cent max), both of which make an appearance in the Tour of Flanders, as well as the Muur van Geraardsbergen.

Good to know: You can choose to ride the famous climbs any time of the year, and it'll be sunnier mid summer. However, if you want to ride alongside others, then combine your trip with some cycling tourism and watch some pro racing, you could enter the Tour of Flanders sportive or the Liège-Bastogne-Liège Challenge, both of which take place on the same weekend as the professional peloton hits the cobbles. 

Recommended time to visit: Highs between 13-22ºC from April to September

Cycling holidays in Portugal

Though Portugal is not the most well documented cycling location, riding in Portugal is becoming more popular with a number of tour companies setting up in recent years.

Portugal's roads differ from those you'll find in Spain and its islands. There are climbs, but there's also a wealth of long and rolling terrain well suited to the puncheurs of the world.

Madeira offers something different from mainland Portugal, although many of its roads are brutally steep, so you may need some uplift to make the experience enjoyable. It's a good place for gravel riding though, with its levada network offering the chance to reach some remote areas.

Good to know: Cycling Weekly visited Portugal with Volta Pro Tours - the company runs a range of cycling holidays, but we particularly enjoyed the N2, which covers the 750km on one road (the N2) from Chaves to Faro.

Recommended time to visit: Highs of 16-24ºC November - April

Cycling holidays in Cape Town, South Africa

The longest flight on our list by a long way, but the stunning roads that lace this coastal area - which sits just below the shadow of Table Mountain in South Africa - are well documented.

Sights to explore include the Smitswinkel climb, Cape Point Nature Reserve, the Misty Cliffs and Chapman’s Peak/Suikerbossie double ascent.

Good to know: There are two major events which you could wrap your visit around. The Cape Town Cycle Tour sportive is a one day ride which takes in the greatest sights of the local area. Alternatively, go all out and check out Hot Chillee's Cape Rouleur, running between March 6-10 this year. This tour explores the Cape Winelands, and splits riders up into three seeded groups, with the opportunity for competition with time segments.

Recommended time to visit: March to November, highs of 18-25ºC

Check out these great cycling holidays

We've teamed up with Pedal Tripr to curate some stunning cycling holidays especially for you.

Cycling holiday FAQs

If you're heading off on a cycling adventure some time soon, you're certainly not in the minority.

It's common for groups of cyclists to jet off between the months of February and April, searching for warmer weather, long European climbs and a bit of respite from the crater laden road surfaces in the UK and US.

If you're after some inspiration as to where to ride, check out our guide to the best cycling holiday destinations in Europe and Africa.

Such holidays are usually anticipated months in advance and embarked upon with great expectations. All being well, riders can expect to come home with improved fitness and renewed enthusiasm following some sunny days spent cycling and relaxing in good company. They will also have skipped some iffy UK and US weather and be ready to take on their summer schedule and objectives with renewed enthusiasm.

However, it's easy to let the excitement take over, burst out the blocks on arrival, hit too many long endurance rides at Zone 2 and underestimate the amount of climbing needed, returning home over-tired and burned out, having overtrained.

1. Build up some miles to prepare for a cycling holiday

'Training for a training camp' might sound a bit crazy, but if you've built up a few miles in your legs you'll probably enjoy your trip more and be able to get a greater benefit from your days in the saddle, being less stretched and able to do more while you're away.

Your cycling holiday is likely to involve back-to-back, long days. We're not suggesting you try to log this sort of distance at home around your day job, but if you can extend your weekend rides in the lead-up and perhaps do a couple of double days it'll help your body in its readiness for what's coming and psychologically you'll feel more prepared.

You don't want to be the one that everyone is waiting around for at the top of every climb all holiday.

2. Discuss expectations: is it a cycling holiday or training camp?

If you're going away with a group of other cyclists, then it's important to make sure you're on the same page. Is this a 'training camp' or a 'cycling holiday'? Are you riding all day, or splitting your time between the bike and the bars/pool/tourist attractions?

Some riders will probably want to be out riding all day every day, while others may be more interested in the après-ride bars. That might be a particular issue if you're tired and sharing a room with a party animal.

Of course, there's nothing stopping you doing some of your rides separately - just make sure you've all got similar expectations. 

An easy day might offer some recovery and help you to keep going better on subsequent days, although it might seem a waste, having flown out to your training camp. Keep an eye on the weather too - you might find you want to skip that all-day ride in a gale.

3. Outline a rough plan to prepare for the cycling holiday

Most cycling holiday locations feature local climbs - a desire to ride the surrounding ascents probably played a role in your choice of base. If there are some climbs on your bucket list, make a plan for when you're going to attack them.

Be realistic about how many big ride days you can do, so that you'll enjoy your Queen Stage ride, rather than it becoming a slog.

It's a good idea to plan in a 'recovery day' when you might spin out for a shorter, flatter ride, though prepare to be flexible with this as the weather dictates.

4. Prepare your bike for the cycling holiday

There's few things worse than a week of listening to a noisy pedal - or worse, having your descents ruined by tyres you don't trust or brakes that are so near the metal you're not quite sure if you're going to be able to brake for that fast approaching bend.

Your bike is going to see more wear on your week away than normal. The demands of long climbs and descents means that you really want your gears and brakes to be in good working order - so replacing brake pads and cables before you leave is a good idea. 

If you've got electronic shifting, make sure you've charged the battery or have packed your charging cradle/cable. You don't want to spend the whole holiday on the little ring. Check your chain for wear and that all your bolts are tight as well.

It probably goes without saying, but just in case: don't be like this author (many years ago) aged 21, madly hunting for a bike sized cardboard box the night before travelling with her three-week-old first road bike to the Pyrenees.

Your bike is going to need to travel in some form of box or bag, we recommend a hard shell case above all - mainly for the metal pole that runs through the middle and makes it impossible to crush. There are several good options on the market, or you can hire a bike at your destination or rent a bike box before you travel.

5. Take kit for assorted weathers

Traditionally we travel to Europe for better weather conditions - but that doesn't mean you can expect wall-to-wall sunshine 24/7. In the early season, even cycling hotspots like the Costa Blanca and Mallorca can see snow or cold, wet weather.

Weather conditions may vary, day-to-day and during rides - not to mention the fact that your core temperature will fluctuate on the climbs versus on the descents. High mountain passes can sometimes see snow or sleet even in high summer and that's much more likely even on a late spring training camp.

Important items to consider, then, are removable layers - arm warmers, leg warmers, packable jackets, gilets and a base layer that can wick sweat away on the climb so it doesn't cool on your skin on descents. 

Make sure that you have options to keep your arms, legs and feet covered and a pair of full fingered gloves. You might want to pack a cycling cap, which will protect you from high altitude sun, as well as rain and cold. Sun cream is a shrewd addition if heading south, even in the spring.

Many European mountain passes include long, unlit tunnels - so taking a set of lights is a good idea.

6. Consider saddle comfort

If you're struggling with any sort of saddle discomfort now, then you'll be struggling a whole lot more after 500 kilometres.

Take a seat that you know is bum friendly over endurance rides (make sure you test it in advance), especially if you're hiring a bike - you don't want to be playing saddle roulette and can ask the shop to swap out their stock saddle for one that works for you.

Chamois cream and plenty of pairs of comfortable cycling shorts are sensible additions, too. Make sure you've got enough shorts for a fresh pair every day, or be prepared to wash your cycling kit in the evening. 

Cycling tour companies will probably have clothes washing services or facilities, but if you've organised things yourself, you'll need to bring the necessary technical wash products and hang your kit to dry in your room.

7. Nutrition is important

The number one piece of advice for cyclists taking on long rides is always to fuel correctly - drinking and eating along the way to top up the tanks. So if you're completing long rides every day (or almost every day) then it follows that this is going be become even more important.

If you usually use energy drink, bars, gels or recovery drinks, then take your normal poison with you, unless you know it'll be readily available where you're staying. Trying out a new product at your camp may risk stomach problems or you may find it difficult to get the cycling nutrition you need on a long ride in a remote area.

It's common for cyclists to stay at hotels with buffet style dinners on training camps. This removes the hassle of shopping and cooking (if you don't enjoy it), but it does mean you've got to eat what's going. There's usually a lot of choice, but try to avoid getting carried away and eating foods that you know won't make for better bike riding the next day or which you're not sure you'll tolerate well.

8. Check your insurance policy before your cycling holiday

Boring, we know. But you'll be a lot more bored if you find yourself bike-less for a month after being decoupled from it on a descent.

Most home insurance policies cover your bike when abroad, but it's worth checking. Cycle specific insurance companies will probably cover you, but do check.

Purchasing travel insurance, which can cover your flights, accommodation and any medical fees is a smart idea too.

Visit Morzine in the peak summer holiday season, and you'd be forgiven for believing it was a mecca reserved for an entirely different breed of rider: one wearing baggy shorts and more likely to see their heart rate hit the upper echelons going downhill rather than climbing a mountain.

>>> Best cycling holidays

>>> Cycling holidays in France 

Despite the huge array of cultivated trails, and conveniently placed uplifts which serve skiers in the snowy season, it's not only full-face helmet wearing downhill mountain bikers who can enjoy Morzine - though if you do like to enjoy a mixture of riding then you'll most certainly be spoilt for choice.

Nestled amongst climbs which enjoy decades of Tour de France history, the French ski resort offers up a wealth of opportunity for road riders seeking miles of tarmac and metres of ascent.

Why go cycling in Morzine?

Nudging the border to Switzerland, Morzine is set in the French Alps and the mountains provide a backdrop which will have you recalibrating your expectations of high definition television.

The natural beauty wordlessly makes its own case - but of course it's not the only place you can hunt out a stunning vista.

Being a ski resort, Morzine (or, Morzine-Avoriaz, since pairing up with the newer resort 14km up the mountain) is also set up for tourists - in this case, very active ones.

Whether balancing on the tightrope spanning the 300m wide Lac de Montriond or completing a midweek triathlon, Morzine's residents (many of them expats) and holidayers have a low tolerance for boredom and seemingly Duracell bunny levels of energy.

With ski lifts, a complex of swimming pools including a 50 metre outdoor playground, tennis courts, skate park, a slide which will give you a glimpse at what the mountain bikers are enjoying without risk to your collarbone - and more - Morzine can provide all you need to keep an entire family entertained.

Or, indeed, a group of friends who want to eat and drink their way through the evenings via the endless array of bars and restaurants.

When it comes to cycling, the climbs are suitably long and hard enough to entertain a roadie for at least a week. There are some shorter and shallower humps too, and if flat is your thing, there's the option of riding the stunning but elevation starved 170km around lake Geneva.

When to go, and how to get there?

Being a mountain location, you've got to accept that the weather forecast is unlikely to throw up wall-to-wall sunshine from May to October - probability suggests you'll get the odd rainy day over a week long stay.

However, average temperatures sit at around 20ºc through June, July and August - and mid afternoon you can expect them to reach the high 20s.

If you want the buzz of busy streets and plenty of people watching opportunities, August is your best bet - being peak school holiday season. If you'd rather things were quieter, look to visit earlier, or in late September.

If you're flying, the easiest option is to land at Geneva airport - a 70 km drive from the French hub. Alternatively, you can board the Eurotunnel or Ferry it over to Calais and commence the 881km road trip. The payáge fees will begin to add up, but there's plenty of nice spots en route if you want to make a mini-break of the journey itself.

Where to ride

Tourist Centres are usually a landmark to avoid like the plague, but if you're riding in Morzine, it's worth a visit - if only to pick up a copy of the 'Guide Velo', or 'Road Bike Guide'. In a world awash with glitchy GPX files, this little booklet has long been a refreshing example of route guidance done right (at time of writing).

There's useful routes that will take you out to the key climbs - of which we've handpicked just a few of the tougher ascents below.

Others not to be missed are the stunning Col de l'Encreaz, and the Col du Corbier (6km, 8.6 per cent) is a perfect opportunity for a short sharp benchmarking effort.

The shorter, shallower ascents of the Col du Perret (963m) and Col de Terramont (1096m) can be tagged together nicely for a less challenging, rolling day out, too.

Col de Joux Plane

Building up to 1691m in elevation - and providing a perfect platform from which to view the snowy peaks of Mont Blanc - the Joux Plane is arguably the hardest climb of the lot.

Ride straight up from Morzine and it's 11km at 6.5 per cent, or depart from Samoëns for 11.1km at 8.91 per cent, with  a max of 11.2 per cent.

Riding from Samoëns, the gradient is pretty relentless in its consistency - aside from a tough ramp at 1km and another at 6km, plus a little breather at 4.5km.

Col d'Avoriaz

Used as a "time trial" route, this 14 kilometre climb is perhaps the ultimate end of season hill climb destination.

The Col d'Avoriaz joins Morzine to Avoriaz. It averages at six per cent, with some testing 10 per cent sections, and contains 20 hairpins. The fastest recorded ascent was made by none other than Bernald Hinault - in 33 minutes, and the Tour de France is no stranger to this mountain.

Erupting straight out of Morzine, this is a handy climb to warm the legs up on arrival, test yourself before departure, or - if you're a glutton for punishment - tag onto the end of a longer ride. From the top, you can descend down the Col de Joux Verte...

Col de Joux Verte

Running parallel with the Col d'Avoriaz is the Col de Joux Verte. It's a far prettier climb, which is also nicely shaded for much of the ascent.

The climb is 15 kilometres long, and averages 5.7 per cent. En route, you'll pass the stunning Lac de Montriond, and soon after a section of leg sapping 9 per cent switchbacks, you'll emerge in Les Lindarets - affectionally called the "goat village."

Kilometres 11 to 13 are pleasantly shallow, at about 5 per cent, giving you a great opportunity to enjoy a little respite and soak in the views before the last two km at around 7 per cent.

Col de le Ramaz

Another Tour de France legend, the Ramaz featured in 1981, 2003, 2010 and most recently in 2016 - when Thomas De Gendt won the stage which concluded in Morzine itself.

Climb from Mieussy and you'll enjoy 13.8km at 7.1 per cent, or ride from Taninges for a 16km climb at 6.1 per cent.

The Mieussy side offers up two consecutive 9 per cent kilometre markers at 9 and 10km - right below a series of long tunnels which can feel like a remarkably tempting excuse to soft pedal out of the sun. It's worth taking a rear light, since the first tunnel is both long and closed.

Check out....

There's endless activities to be enjoyed off the bike, and a myriad of food and drink outlets to peruse at your leisure. But here are out top picks for accommodation and entertainment...

44 South

The product of two UK cyclists who loved Morzine so much, they had to buy a place there, 44South provide cycling holidays for roadies and triathletes looking to get the most from their stay.

Their chalet can sleep up to 18 people, and there's a range of boarding options depending on the level of catering you're looking for.

Le Lac de Montriond

Don't miss out on a day at the lake.

At 1.3km long and 300m wide, it's expansive enough to be enjoyed by swimmers, canoeists and the newer breed of SUP boarders. There's a cafe at each end, plus paths for running, walking, and pony rides...

Satellite Coffee

If you're a roadie who partakes in the coffee culture of cycling, you may find some of the coffee on offer elsewhere a little lacklustre. Antidote: Satellite Coffee.

Here, you'll find the lovingly barista made flat white you've probably been craving since arrival on French soil, as well as Instagram ready pancake stacks, plus vegan and gluten free cakes. The perfect place to kill a rainy afternoon.

Skoda Ice Rink

Morzine-Avoriaz has its own ice hockey team, and fixtures are fairly regular.

An evening spent spectating, armed with a pint and chips, is a pretty good way to recover from a long ride in the mountains.

Alicante's Mediterranean coastline, The Costa Blanca, is home to two juggernaut cycling holiday and training camp destinations: Calpe and Denia.

Calpe has been used as a training base for a huge percentage of the pro peloton, with Team Dimension Data, Trek-Segafredo, Team Sky and Sunweb to name a few setting up camp there.

Travel just a little way along the coast and you'll find Denia - a slightly quieter town that sits in the shadow of its 11th century castle.

>>> Best cycling holidays

>>>Best cycling holidays in Spain

There's plenty more places stay in between, as well, and travel is as simple as a flight in to Alicante for most.

Why visit Denia or Calpe?

Travelling cyclists are typically looking for the superlative in two key criteria: climate, and terrain. Local delicacies, cost of living (and eating), and entertainment are all usually secondary.

So, it's helpful for the Costa Blanca that in 1986 the World Health Organisation recommended the area as "one of the most equitable in the world," applauding it for being neither too hot nor too cold.

The area boasts an incredible 325 sunny days a year. Cyclists tend to visit in the months between October and May, when max temperatures are around 16°C to 25°C. The months from June to September can reach 30° quite easily and can get a bit hot for bike riding.

Average rainy days vary from one a month mid summer to six in December, with the spring months hovering at around four.

On to the terrain, which boasts the beauty of variability.

There are plenty of long, flat lanes - often accompanied by the zesty scent of orange groves.

These provide an ideal playground for team time trial training - something CCC Team (previously BMC) had been doing a couple of weeks before Cycling Weekly arrived for a week of riding in Spring, leaving behind them evidence in the form of chalk lines drawn on the roads.

Then, of course, there are the climbs. Many of these are fairly steady, from five to six per cent in average gradient and anything from six to 15 kilometres long. These lend themselves perfectly to training efforts at and around functional threshold power.

These also allow for a little energy left in the legs for sprint efforts over the brow, which is perfect even for amateur teams practicing lead outs ahead of the season proper.

There's also some steep climbs which can be used as launch pads for some high torque efforts, if you've got the legs. Examples include the 4km Cumbre del Sol which - depending which way you climb it - averages around 10 per cent and includes ramps over 20 per cent.

In 2015 the climb enlivened the Vuelta a España as Tom Dumoulin went on to take the win whilst riders behind cracked on the slopes, then  in 2017 it was Chris Froome who was best over the ramps.

When should you plan your trip?

Temperatures are warm all year, though the most popular time to visit is between January and mid-April.

John Fegan, owner of 'Train in Spain' which organises and guides group training camps and holidays in Denia, told us: "The men's and women's pro teams and continental teams are concentrated here in December and January. From February to April, it is peak time for amateur teams, clubs and groups to visit.

"The only time to really avoid is July to mid-September when the coastal roads get very busy and it is too hot for most people to want to exercise much.

"From October to December temperatures are mostly warm to mild as they are from March to May. January and February can also be mild to warm but occasionally there is a cold snap, or a wet few days."

Where to stay

Denia

Denia, located 90km from Alicante airport, is a coastal town with rows of traditional streets housing restaurants and shops as well as a lively modern Marina and long stretches of sandy beaches.

The area can offer plenty of quiet, flat roads that are ideal for time trial and team time trial training as well as recovery days, plus rolling hills and of course climbs.

Fegan set up Train in Spain, and its popular cake and bike hire provider Cafe Ciclista, to host groups of amateurs as well as pros. Of course he's advocate of the area, over its popular neighbour Calpe.

"Most longer rides [from Denia] begin with 20kms or so of easy, flat riding which allows riders to warm up before going into the climbs," he says.

"There is a wider variety of climbs close by and they can be mixed up or combined more than you can do from the Calpe area. Directly inland, as well as to the north west of Denia, it is easy to reach and enjoy the likes of the Vall de Gallinera - and over to Beniares reservoir and Lorcha - Tollos, Vall de Ebo, Mirador de Xap, La Vall de Laguar, Petracos, Coll de Garga.

"More or less straight inland you have, of course, the Coll de Rates and the Sierra de Bernia, which are both approximately 25km from Denia."

Calpe

Just 20km from the party town of Benidorm and 64km from Alicante airport, Calpe promises sandy beaches and plenty of seaside bars for post ride 'recovery drinks' of a hoppy nature.

Mid summer, it's a popular family holiday location so there's plenty of places to eat and drink.

Fegan says: "Calpe is a bit closer to Alicante airport. It enjoys the same weather as Denia and it has closer access to the longer climbs of Tudons and Confrides - if people want to do the longer climbs further south then it is a good place to be.  The main disadvantage is that to get out of Calpe and into the hills, you have to cycle on busy roads."

Calpe has traditionally been favoured by pro teams, and Fegan explains: "A key reason the pro teams chose Calpe as their base was due to the fact that next to the lovely and very large 4-star Diamante Hotel, there is a really big car park where they can park their buses and trucks right besides the hotel entrance.

"This is a must-have for them and very few hotels in the other close-by towns can provide it."

Ontinyent

Fancy staying away from the coast?

Ontinyent is nestled within the Vall d'Albaida region, which also contains the Serra Mariola National Park, and the area is home to newly launched cycling holiday company Escapar.cc.

The town is just over an hour from Alicante airport (91 kilometres) and being more inland is greener and more luscious. Temperatures can be a little lower mid summer, with less humidity and you can expect even fewer rainy days too.

Founder David Emery described the inland area as a "goldilocks location," surrounded by a surplus of vineyards as well as having a close proximity to some of the area's tallest mountains and lower levels of traffic and tourism.

"Looking at the regional map of all the named climbs confirms that Alcoy and Ontinyent are blessed with a sheer abundance of climbs, 1000m mountains and an unparallled variety of riding, that includes perhaps the most famous climbs such as the Carresqueta, Port de Tudons and Xorret del Cati," Emery said.

"There are multiple mountain passes straight from the centre town and the riding is brilliant from kilometer zero. On the coast you have have to ride 20 to 30km at the start and end or rides just to get the classic climbs.

"There's also an array of lesser known climbing gems, with alpine like gradients of six to nine per cent, that just don't exist near the coast, where it's often short and very steep or long and steady," he added.

Popular climbs

Coll de Rates

Coll de Rates is the blue ribboned climb of the area. At 6km, with an average gradient of 5 per cent, it's short and shallow enough that it's perfect for FTP type efforts.

Whilst most people will use Strava to time their effort now, there's an old style ticketing system, with a machine at the top and bottom.

The smooth gradient, excellent views and stunning surface makes for a great descent, too - just look out for those riding in the other direction and so 'on the limit' that the white line is all a bit of a blur.

See the climb on Strava here

Vall d'Ebo

Very much a 'testers climb', the 8km stretch from Pego winds its way to the summit at an average gradient of 6 per cent with no specific ramps to disrupt your flow.

The constant switchbacks provide plenty of opportunity to take in the valley views - or check out the progress of your ride buddies.

Beware - if you climb from Pego and continue on to Tollos after the summit, you'll be greeted with a further 15km of rolling terrain that offers some seriously stinging ramps. It's well worth leaving a little energy in the tank, go too hard on the climb and you might find yourself tempted to get off the bike and call a taxi home.

See the climb on Strava

Cumbre Del Sol

Known for its unrelentingly steep gradient, the Cumbre Del Sol featured in the Vuelta a España in both 2015 and 2017 - with Tom Dumoulin and Chris Froome taking the victory respectively.

There's five routes up, but the option selected by the Spanish race's route planners is 4.1km long, averaging out at 9.1 per cent - with hairpins over 20 per cent.

Overlooking the coast, the views from the top are exquisite - and if you're not tearing yourself apart to reach the summit in the best time possible, the location makes for attractive viewing all the way up.

See the climb on Strava here

Vall de Laguar

See the climb on Strava here (from Sagra)

See the climb on Strava here (from Castell de Castells)

At 10.8km long with a 6 per cent gradient, this ascent offers a vista which more than rewards the efforts put in as you snake your way to the tip of the climb.

You can ride from Sagra for an easier gradient over a longer distance, or start on the road between Benigembla and Castell de Castells for a shorter but steeper version. It's not signposted, but here's the climb.

It's worth leaving some gas in the tank on this one. Even taking the 'easier' side from Sagra, the first 8km average anywhere from 3 to 6 per cent - then the final stretch ramps up dramatically, averaging up to 9.4 per cent for each kilometre with ramps of 17 per cent.

Promotional feature with Bikecation

It might be one you have seen on TV - Pantani gliding up Alpe d’Huez, the Joux Plan defeating Armstrong, or Wiggins soaring to the top of Montee de Semnoz. It might be a climb you have read about, or even heard tall tales about over coffee on club rides. It might even be a climb that has defeated you before, leaving memories that make your hands stick to the bar tape.

These climbs fill our cycling dreams and inspire us to ride out, in what is often less than inspiring British weather. Using our site, you can conquer those demons, and fulfil those dreams.

Our site features over 55 climbs, from the Alps to the Sierra Nevada via the Pyrenees, the Dolomites, and even some lesser known cols in the Cantabrian mountains. We have compiled experts’ views, first-hand accounts and essential information, which will be particularly useful for first-time climbers. From our website, find your dream climb and begin to plan your ideal cycling holiday.

Our bucket list of climbs to conquer:

Stelvio

One of Italy’s greatest geographical landmarks; the famous 48 hairpin bends provide arguably the purest, most exhilarating high mountain playground accessible to European road cyclists. Magnifico!

Stelvio info

Ride the Stelvio from £485pp for 3 nights

Tourmalet

The highest major pass in the Pyrenees and the most used climb in the Tour de France: if the aura and the cycling heritage aren’t enough to lure you, the scenery is unbelievably beautiful and there plenty more cols to bag nearby.

Tourmalet info

Ride the Tourmalet from £290pp for 3 nights

Alpe d'Huez

Probably the most famous climb in cycling. The fabled 21 bends has been a part of the Tour de France culture since the climb first featured in 1952. It’s also in the heart of great road cycling terrain.

Alpe d’Huez info

Ride the Alpe from £345pp for 3 nights

Pico de Velet

Towering above the Sierra Nevada national park, at 3395m above sea level, Pico de Veleta is mainland Europe’s highest road climb: a monster. From the top, you can see another continent; at the bottom, the wonderful city of Granada.

Pico de Veleta info

Ride the Veleta from £185pp for 3 nights

Col du Galibier

The legendary Col du Galibier (2638 m), in the Dauphiné Alps near Grenoble, is renowned for being one of the toughest Alpine climbs. This extraordinary high mountain road has been in use since the middle of the 18^th century, providing the backdrop to everything from salt smuggling to a Spanish invasion. It has broken a few cyclists too.

Col du Galibier info

Ride the Galibier from £345pp for 3 nights

We have compiled a few tips, to help you realise your climbing dreams:

Train hard

To enjoy your trip to the high mountains, apply yourself to training. Make sure you can do an hour to 90 minutes of hard, sustained effort in training, to imitate the climbs. If you haven’t got a serious mountain near home, ride smaller hills repeatedly.

Prepare your bike

Make sure your bike is ready. Get a bike shop to check it over if you are unsure: replace cables and brake pads, and fit the bike with climbing-friendly gearing. We recommend a compact crankset (50/34) and at least a 28t rear cassette. A 32t cassette will make it even easier. You can, of course, rent one of the very good hire bikes we have access to in most destinations.

Check the weather

Inevitably, mountains attract weather. Be aware that it can change suddenly. Get a good weather app on your phone; study the meteorological data to get a sense of what to expect; and when you get there, ask in your hotel about local conditions. If the weather gets really bad, don’t be afraid to change your route to avoid high passes.

Take all your riding gear

Pack most of your cycling wardrobe, so you can adapt it to the weather each day. Be creative: if you are heading out for a long, wet day in the mountains, perhaps pack a black bin liner and some cut-down washing up gloves. If you get really cold and wet, they will keep you warm.

Don't go riding without a jacket

The Bikecation office rule: below 1400m, take a windproof jacket as minimum; over 1400m, carry a waterproof jacket and long finger gloves.

In bad weather, don't stop at the top

If you have to wait for someone, ride down to a place where there is good shelter.

Drink lots

Carry two large water bottles with you; top them up at every opportunity when you are climbing. Be wary of cramp and heatstroke; consider taking electrolytes in your water.

Descend with caution

Descending from an Alpine col is a very different experience to whizzing down a hill in the Chilterns. Easy your way into big descents and remember, it’s not the Tour: the roads are not closed.

Spares and tools

Carry a pump, tubes, spare chain link, basic tools, food, some money (for cafes – we can tell you where the good ones are), some food and a phone (in a waterproof case).

Don't go overboard the night before

We understand you are on holiday and want to have a good time, but alcohol dehydrates the body dramatically.

Take lights

Inexpensive, blinking LED lights will do; cloud on high mountain passes, even in summer, can significantly reduce visibility, while plenty of climbs have tunnels. In some European countries, bike lights are mandatory in tunnels.

Study your routes and climbs

We have a wealth of information on the site about the major climbs and routes up them. Understand what you are attempting; know where the ascents get harder and easier. This knowledge will significantly help you pace your ride.

It all started with a bike ride in Spain.

I was with three other riders, and we weren't using the bike lane - mostly because it was littered with sand and occasional pedestrians. It was a casual easy sunshine spin, until the traffic cops stopped us.

It was suggested that if we didn't have documentation to produce, we'd have our bikes packed up into the van to be taken to the police station, which seemed somewhat dramatic when you consider the combined worth to be around £15k.

They got back into their cars and drove off, after about 30 minutes of interrogation, when it transpired that we didn't have cash on us and we weren't going to reveal the location of our hotel.

My attempts at rational conversation with the traffic police were somewhat scuppered by the fact I didn't know exactly what the law was, in Spain. Hence it seemed like a good idea to take a look at the key laws for cyclists in some of the European counties cyclists are most likely to ride their bicycles in.

Cycling within the European Union

The below is Brexit dependant for UK residents, but here's what applies for now.

The 1968 Vienna Convention on Road Traffic set out some guidelines to apply across EU countries, and Article 44 refers to requirements for bicycles.

All bicycles must have:

1. An efficient brake
2. A bell – and no other audible warning device
3. A red rear reflector
4. Red rear lamp
5. White or selective yellow front lamp

Each country also has its own laws and some will be more stringent. However, national charity Cycling UK states that "as a visitor, you have the option of pick and mix between the traffic law of that country and the above requirements for international use of a pedal cycle."

Country specific guidelines

It goes without saying that in all countries, cyclists are required to ride on the same side of the road as cars, they must indicate when turning left or right, and should stop at red lights (unless marked otherwise).

>>> Best cycling holidays

Other laws vary, and below are the official lines.

However, bear in mind that in the UK the Highway Code stipulates that all bicycles have reflectors fitted to the pedals, yet the last time most of us saw a pedal reflector we were under the age of 10. In other words, not all regulations are enforced.

UK

Helmets

Helmets are not compulsory.

Riding two abreast

The Highway Code states that it is legal for cyclists to ride side-by-side, though Rule 66 does add that cyclists should ride in single file “on narrow or busy roads and when riding round bends.”

>>> Why do cyclists ride side by side? 

Cyclists are advised to ride side-by-side by national governing bodies. Primarily, this is because a group of eight side-by-side riders is easier and safer to overtake than a line of eight cyclists riding single file.

Though the Highway Code says we should be single file on narrow roads, we can take the primary position (riding in the middle of the lane) where it's not safe for drivers to overtake.

Using cycle lanes

The use of cycle lanes is not compulsory. Cyclists can choose the road or cycle lane based on whichever they feel is safer.

Liability

The UK is one of only five European countries (alongside Malta, Cyprus, Romania and Ireland) which has not introduced presumed liability.

Instead, it operates a fault-based system. This means if a cyclist is hit by a vehicle, they have to prove the driver was at fault to receive compensation.

Other considerations

Cyclists do not legally have to have insurance but many are covered by home insurance or registration with a body like British Cycling or Cycling UK.

Legally, you must have two working brakes. A fixed wheel counts as a rear brake, so fixie riders can have a front only.

Rule 60 of the Highway Code suggests that all bikes must be fitted with a white front and red rear light (flashing or steady), plus a red rear reflector and amber pedal reflectors, if manufactured after 1/10/85.

Spain

Helmets

In 2013, proposals were made that would have seen helmets made compulsory. However, these were not passed.

The current law - updated in 2014 - states that those over 16 must wear a helmet when riding outside of urban areas. Exemptions apply when riding uphill, if it's very hot, or if you are a professional cyclist.

Under 16s must wear helmets at all times.

Riding two abreast

It is legal for cyclists to ride two abreast in Spain, excluding when there is low visibility, and when traffic builds up behind - at which point riders must go single file.

Article 36.2 of the Spanish regulations - Código de Tráfico y Seguridad Vial - states:

"2. It is forbidden for the vehicles listed in the previous section [including cyclists] [to] circulate in a parallel position, except for bicycles, which may do so in a two-by-two column, edging as far as possible to the extreme right of the road and placing in a row in sections with no visibility, and when they form traffic jams (aglomeración tráfico)."

Using cycle lanes

Loosely translated, article 36 states that: "Cycles will use the road if there is no part that is specially designed."

That means you must use the bike lane if there is one that is suitable.

However, in an article by a local insurance firm, it is noted that enforcement is variable, because "the different municipalities can regulate the bike lane almost autonomously."

Liability

In Spain, drivers are presumed liable in the case of a collision with a non-driver, including cyclists.

Article 1 of Royal Decree 8/2004 states: "The motor vehicle driver is responsible, for the risk created by driving such vehicles, damage to persons or property caused through his driving.”

The driver is liable unless it is proven that the incident occurred solely due to the conduct or negligence of the other party.

For this reason, it's often recommended that cyclists do not wave drivers through when they deem it safe, instead leaving the driver to make their own judgement.

Other considerations

Cyclists must have lights on between sunset and sunrise - those who don't can be issued with a fine up to €200.

A bell is also compulsory, and you can be fined for having faulty brakes or failing to give way.

You must not cycle on the road if you have a blood alcohol level greater than 0.5 grams per litre.

Article 114 of the Spanish Highway Code says "it is forbidden to open your door without first checking if it is a hazard to others, particularly cyclists". That's nice to know.

Germany

Helmets

Helmets are recommended, but not compulsory.

Riding two abreast

German regulations state: "Pedal cyclists must ride in single file; they may only ride two or more abreast if this does not obstruct traffic."

Using cycle lanes

A cycle path is separated from the road by a kerb and from the pavement by markings, paving or a low kerb.

When the cycle lane is indicated by an unbroken white line and a blue cycle path sign, it is mandatory and cyclists must use it. Cycle lanes have to meet a minimum standard to be compulsory.

A broken white line and picture of a bicycle on the road marks out an 'optional protection lane'. Cyclists do not have to use these.

Liability

Like Spain, Germany exercises presumed liability.

Other considerations

You can be fined for 'drink cycling' in Germany, anything from 0.4 mg/l breathing air is considered over the limit.

On some marked one-way streets, cyclists are allowed to ride contraflow, and there are 'bicycle streets' where you may take the middle of the lane - two abreast - and drivers must stay behind.

Fines can be issued for jumping red lights, looking at your phone or wearing headphones.

You must have a white front light and a red rear light, but flashing LED lights are prohibited. You should have two working brakes and a bell.

Children must cycle on the pavement until they are eight years old and are able to ride on the pavement until they turn 10.

Belgium

Helmets

Helmets are not compulsory.

Riding two abreast

Cycling side by side is allowed provided that other road-going traffic is not inconvenienced.

Using cycle lanes

If a dedicated bike lane is available, you have to use it if you're in a small group.

Where it's a shared use path, the Belgian Highway Code reads: "Users of these paths can not put each other in danger or embarrass themselves. They must be extra careful with children and can not obstruct unnecessary traffic." The speed limit on these paths is 30kph.

However, there are different rules if you're in a large group. If there's 15 or more of you, the code states:  "Cyclists travelling in groups of no less than 15 participants to a maximum of 50 are not required to use the cycle lanes and can ride two at a time on the roadway, provided that they remain grouped together."

This said, you must have at least two 'masters of the route' with you, to ensure smooth running, and be preceded and followed by a motor vehicle by at least 30 metres.

Liability

As per Spain and Germany, presumed liability is exercised.

Other considerations

Drivers must leave a lateral distance of at least one meter between their vehicle and a cyclist.

Some Belgian cities have roads that are one-way for cars and two-way for cyclists. Signs will denote these, so look out for them.

In cycle streets, riders can use the full width of the road if its one way, or ride in the centre of the lane when it's two way.

Fines can be applied for riding with your hands off the handlebars, riding with your feet off the pedals, being towed by another rider or motorist or cycling whilst on your mobile phone.

The lighting laws are similar to elsewhere, and reflectors and pedal reflectors make an appearance again.

Regulations state: "Between dusk and sunrise and in any circumstance where it is no longer possible to see distinctly up to a distance of about 200 meters, cyclists must use a [white or yellow] front and [red] rear steady or flashing light without glare. The red tail light shall be visible at night in a clear atmosphere at a minimum distance of 100 meters.

"Bicycles must be permanently equipped with a white retro reflector at the front and a red retro reflector at the rear... The pedals of bicycles must be permanently equipped with yellow or orange retro-reflectors."

Traffic with "right of way" always has right of way, and the law does not distinguish based on speed - so cyclists have the same right as other vehicles.

France

Helmets

Children under 12 years old must wear a helmet, a guardian can be fined €90 for non-compliance.

Those over 12 do not have to wear a helmet.

Riding two abreast

When riding in a group, you should be two abreast or single file.

At night, if a vehicle wishes to overtake, or when "circumstances make it necessary," riders should move to become single file.

If there's more than 10 of you, you should split into two groups.

Using cycle lanes

In built up areas, you must use cycle lanes where they exist.

Liability

As per countries mentioned above, France exercises presumed liability.

Other considerations

It is illegal to cycle whilst wearing headphones. The alcohol limit applied to drivers also applies to cyclists.

Rules set out by Direction de la sécurité et de la circulation routières (DSCR) state that your bike must have two brakes, front and rear, a yellow or white front light, red rear light, a horn or bell and reflectors. It also states that: "all cyclists (and passengers) on the road at night or in poor visibility, outside of built-up areas must wear a reflective vest."

New laws now allow cyclists, in some cases, to turn right or go straight ahead when the light is red. You can only do this at signposted intersections - more info here. 

Only children of less than eight years old are allowed to cycle their bikes on the pavement.

Italy

Helmets

Helmets are not mandatory.

Riding two abreast

The Codice Stradale (Highway Code) says: "1. Cyclists must ride in single file whenever traffic conditions require them to do so, and never more than two abreast. When riding outside centres of population, they must always ride in single file except when one of the riders is less than 10 years old and is riding on the right of the other."

Using cycle lanes

Yep, you've got to use them when they're available.

The Codice Stradale says: "9. Cyclists must ride on the cycle lanes or cycleways [piste] reserved for them where these exist, except where prohibited from doing so by regulations."

Liability

As per all of the above, except the UK!

Other considerations

Other notable rules include that cyclists must always have their "arms and hands free to control the handlebar with at least one hand, and must be able at all times to see in front and to either side of them and able to undertake the necessary manoeuvres."

As well as lights, reflective items are meant to be worn when riding in non-urban areas between sunset and dawn, though we've not seen this enforced.

Promotional feature with Bikecation

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To give you a little food for thought, we’ve come up with a hot list of destinations with the shortest airport transfer times. They all have a ‘plane seat to saddle time’ of under an hour.

Costa Dorada

Fly to Reus and you’ll be riding the quiet roads of the Costa Dorada out of Cambrils in just 20 minutes. The riding is high calibre. Bahrain Merida and Team UAE head to this little-known part of Spain for their training camps. 3 nights in the Costa Dorada starts from £100pp

Girona

With its own airport, you practically fall off the plane into the beautiful old town of Girona. Leave the UK on the first flight in the morning and you can be climbing the Rocacorba and rubbing shoulders with the local pros for lunch. 3 nights in Girona starts from £120pp

Nice

The plane to Nice virtually lands on the beach, on the edge of the city centre. A quick hop down the Promenade des Anglais in a taxi, and you can be climbing the Col d'Eze straight out of town. 3 nights in Nice start from £295pp

Annecy

Just 45 minutes transfer from Geneva, Annecy is a gateway to the Alps, with great access to some of the fabled cols of the Tour de France, like the mighty Semnoz. 3 nights in Annecy starts from £335pp

Adriatic Coast

Fly to Rimini and 30 minutes later, you’re exploring Marco Pantani country. Home to the Novi Coli, theAdriatic Coast area of Italy is still a hidden gem. The climbs, such as the Monte Pugliano, are short but steep, while the food and wine of the area are first class. 3 nights on the Adriatic Coast starts from £185pp

Mallorca

If you stay near Palma, you can step off the plane and be pedalling in the hills of Mallorca quicker than you can change a puncture. From here, ride the beautiful, including classics like Sa Calobra and Puig Major. 3 nights in Mallorca starts from £175pp

Our cycling guides and experts are happy to discuss and advise on everything to do with your short break cycling holiday - from the ideal destination through all the elements of the trip you would like to include.

Contact us when you’re ready but don’t leave it too long. Time is precious.

It was almost as if the cycling gods were aware of what was to come. A thunderstorm greeted us upon landing at Milan Malpensa airport before we made our way north towards the Alps on flooded roads; our final destination a stretch of road famous for pushing the minds and bodies of cyclists to the limit, the Passo dello Stelvio.

Sketchy weather isn’t anything new to the Stelvio Pass, which has seen many an epic Giro d’Italia stage played out to the backdrop of snowstorms and unrelenting rain. Nairo Quintana infamously attacked, on a supposedly neutralised Stelvio descent, to take the pink jersey in 2014 and go on to win the race altogether.

But even the hardy pro peloton has seen stages cancelled due to the inclement conditions, so I went to sleep that night fearing the trip may be a non-starter. However, any prospect of postponing our ascent was swiftly forgotten as we woke the following morning to blue skies and a gentle breeze.

Pursuit of pleasure... or pain

Rolling out from our apartment in Valdisotto, a small town south of Bormio, I form a mini team time trial with CW colleagues Richard and Dan. Personally I can tell I am feeling the weakest out of our trio and the thought of two hours of hard riding solo wasn’t what the doctor ordered.

The Stelvio has a long list of accolades attached to it, in part down to its height at 2,758m — the second highest paved climb in the Alps behind the Col de l’Iseran. It is also the highest stage finish of any Grand Tour to date, playing that role four times in the Giro ’s history. But I wasn’t feeling like my ascent was about to create any such historic landmarks.

As we begin to climb out of Bormio, we are greeted with three distinctive signs of what lies ahead. Firstly a wall with brickwork signalling you are leaving Bormio at 1,225m — any previous research of the Stelvio will tell you that there is about 1,500 metres of climbing to the top. Next to it is a bright pink shark tooth race profile of the 2017 Giro d’Italia stage, where the peloton ascended the Mortirolo, the Stelvio from the Bormio side before heading back up the Umbrail Pass and down the fast and flowing finish into Bormio. Lastly, there’s the infamous first hairpin sign — there are 40 turns or tornantes that can be agonisingly counted down to the summit.

Then there was one

We leave the north of Bormio on the Via Stelvio on what the Italian road network calls the SS38. If you believe these countdown signs might make for nice motivational checkpoints to tick off, think again — after number 37 the long straight lines of asphalt eliminate the sight of the signs for the first third of the climb.

By this point my fears have been realised and my ride companions have shown no mercy, upping the pace enough to snap the elastic and form a 20-metre gap. I know trying to latch on will more than likely pay when altitude and fatigue kicks in further towards the summit. Despite maintaining this gap for a couple of kilometres, soon enough this grows until they are out of sight on the shallow corners. See you at the summit, friends!

The Stelvio is known for its hairpins and the postcard shot of the switchbacks is arguably the most iconic in cycling. However, the long drag up to the first set of switchbacks is mentally the toughest part of the climb. You are dwarfed by stunning mountains in every direction as the road rises towards a destination that appears non-existent at this early stage.

The skidmarks that greet you at turn 36 showcase the popularity of the climb not only with cyclists, but with cars as well. In comparison to many other cycling Meccas that tend to be enjoyed exclusively by bicycle riders, the Stelvio doesn’t offer the same experience. Partly in thanks to Top Gear once claiming the road to the top of the Alp was the ‘greatest driving road in the world’, it sports a constant flow of motorbikes and cars making a pilgrimage to the summit.

Luckily the wide roads are kept in good condition, especially compared to other climbs in the area. However, if a quiet ride is more of an attractive proposition, then heading up early or late in the day is probably your best bet. Or if you want to be sure to ride the climb without any motor vehicles, the Stelvio National Park closes off all three ascents to the top to motorised traffic on the last Saturday in August or first Saturday in September.

Bormio side — western ascent

Distance: 20.8km

Elevation gain: 1,505 m

Average gradient: 7.2 %

Min elevation: 1,219m

Max elevation: 2,758m

Umbrail Pass from Santa Maria — western ascent

Distance: 16.4km

Elevation gain: 1,358m

Average gradient: 8.1 %

Min elevation: 1,400 m

Max elevation: 2,758 m

Prato side — eastern ascent

Distance: 24km

Elevation gain: 1,827 m

Average grade: 7.6 %

Min elevation: 931m

Max elevation: 2,758m

Tunnel vision

Despite the turn checkpoints not coming as frequently as I’d like, the first major section of the climb has six tunnels hugging the right side of the Braulio valley that are useful markers.

The first one of these is around eight kilometres into the climb (a mini tunnel which is more like a gateway greets you earlier in the climb), before the next five follow in quick succession. All of these are quite well lit, though you may want lights for extra safety in low light. Be wary that one of these tunnels is subject to traffic lights as well, which comes as a welcome respite for some and an unnecessary rhythm breaker for others. For anyone looking to rack up a clean GPS signal from bottom to top, it is unlikely your bike computer will agree as these tunnels skew the signal.

Just before the entrance to the final tunnel I glimpse a shoelace-like road winding its way up the mountain in the distance, and my fading morale from riding 10 kilometres without the sight of the true Stelvio is reinvigorated as the first of the iconic switchbacks comes into view.

My joy is short-lived as the steepest drag of the climb sneaks up on me as the straight road ramps up to 13 per cent. With the ramp conquered, my confidence begins to rise as I tick off each hairpin and inch my way above the imposing valley.

Resisting the temptation to grab a shot of the picture-perfect view, the climb straightens out once again and a lull in gradient allows me to shift through the gears and up the pace a fraction. Having only been overtaken by one other rider other than my two compatriots, and slowly picked off many others on the way, I’m beginning to feel pretty good about myself.

That is until a flash of Bora-Hansgrohe jersey flies past — which I later ascertain was Rafał Majka fine-tuning his form ahead of his 13th-place finish at the Vuelta a España the following month. As the Polish rider disappears up into the clouds, I set about finding my rhythm, and my place in cycling’s hierarchy, as the road ramps up to a consistent eight per cent once again.

So close, yet so far

As I reach the turn off-for the Umbrail Pass at just over 2,500m, the summit of the Stelvio comes into the clearest of views with the collection of hotels, cafes and the traffic that has passed me all nestled at the crown of this majestic mountain. It seems so close, but so far when you consider the effects of altitude at heights like this and the effort already in my legs. It’s almost as if the climb itself knows you are that close and adds in another factor you have to fight, as for the first time on what has been a pleasantly warm day the temperature begins to noticeably drop.

The relief of seeing the top for the first time was at least a reprieve after 100 minutes or so of slogging up the climb. The vast length but manageable gradient of the Stelvio is distinct in comparison to some Italian monsters like the Zoncolan and Mortirolo, which have far less forgiving inclines over shorter distances.

The Stelvio is over 20 kilometres from whichever side you conquer it, which will equate to most amateur riders spending at least an hour and a half in the saddle. I’m edging closer to the two-hour mark as the final tornantes count down, with photographers on the bends catching the final moments of pain and glory before the sweet relief of the summit.

As I attempt to look calm and collected as the cameraman snaps away, my legs and lungs are telling me something different, though my metronomic, if ever slowing, rhythm begins to kick in once out of sight of the lens.

The final grind to the top shifts from hairpin bends and long stretches of asphalt, to steeper pitches and sweeping bends. Just before tornante one arrives, a ‘Passo dello Stelvio’ road sign that isn’t covered in thousands of stickers from cycling clubs and motorcycle gangs across the world represents the prime opportunity for a photo. I pass and push on to the top, which is — as expected— a mountain-top version of Piccadilly Circus.

As I arrive around midday the place is littered with knackered cyclists, chirpy motorcyclists and a cluster of cars, their passengers taking snaps of

the vistas either side. I’m just craving some sustenance that doesn’t come out of a gel wrapper and will refuel my mind more than anything for the lightning fast descent.

Looking down at the constant flow of people, and reflecting on the past two hours weaving my way through the giant mountains that loom over me, I realise just how big and how small you can feel once you conquer one of the grandest mountains in all of cycling.

Stelvio and the Giro

The three Grand Tours each have a claim to certain climbs that define their races: the Angliru at the Vuelta; take your pick from Alpe d’Huez, the Tourmalet or Galibier at the Tour de France. But the Stelvio stands alone as an icon of the Giro d’Italia — partly because of its presence in the race since 1953, but also its stature as the Cima Coppi par excellence, the highest point ever reached in the Giro.

The Cima Coppi was first introduced in 1965, the first time the Alp had a summit finish on stage 20 from Madesimo, with eight further appearances in the race including three additional summit finishes in the 1972, 1975 and 2012 editions. The Stelvio was also set to feature in the 1965, 1988, and 2013 races, but was removed late on due to weather conditions.

The three roads up the Stelvio make it one of the most versatile climbs in cycling, surrounded by potential finish towns as well as having the infrastructure for a summit finish itself — the last of which was Thomas De Gendt’s memorable attack to win stage 20 in 2012. The Stelvio is a climb that will remain at the heart of the Italian Grand Tour for a long time to come.

Stelvio travel guide

How to get there

The nearest major city is Milan, with both Malpensa and Linate airports serving flights direct from the UK. However a 3.5-hour drive is then needed to

get to Bormio.

Where to stay

Bormio is a hub for cycling in the area with not only the Stelvio in striking distance, but also well-known climbs such as the Gavia and Mortirolo near by.

Bike shops

There are two shops in Bormio, the small but well-equipped Spot-On Bike Shop and Bormio Ski & Bike Rental. If you want to hire a bike, make sure you pre-book in busy periods.

Cafe stop

If it’s not too cold at the summit, you’ll be gagging for sustenance after a gruelling ascent. Cafe Perego delivers on tasty pizzas, coffees and soft drinks to refuel your body and mind for a rapid descent.

When to go

Due to its location and altitude, the Stelvio is pretty much off limits from late September to early May. The peak of summer may well be the hottest. The chances are snow won’t be blocking your path, although it did fall the week after CW visited in mid-August!

Madeira is steep. Even in the capital, Funchal, there’s little flat and roads climb at alarming angles away from the seafront, without any concessions to the cyclist. Get out of town and you’ll be rewarded with sparse traffic and exhilarating views down to the coast.

A volcanic outcrop only 57km by 22km, Madeira’s highest point is over 1800m above sea level. The upper reaches of the island are forested with eucalyptus and the native laurissilva trees. And running through the forests is a network of levadas.

These irrigation channels are cut into the sides of the hills to carry water to cultivated areas. The paths that run alongside them provide a more gentle route to and from the back country than the road network.

>>> Get better at climbing hills: top tips to speed up your ascents

We followed the levadas down from the eastern end of the island towards Funchal on the recent launch of the Kona Libre gravel bike on Madeira. The one we used had quite a wide path next to it and not too much of a drop off the side; some are much more precipitous and require a good head for heights.

One side-effect of Madeira’s geography is that weather in the hills can be very different from that on the coast. Setting off by minibus in warm sunshine to travel to the start of the ride, we were met at our destination by intermittent heavy rain and temperatures around 10C, although this soon cleared up. In the winter, the mountains can get snow; it’s a good idea to travel prepared.

>>> Kona now has an e-cargo bike

In places, trees had fallen across the levada. These were usually propped up by the slope on either side and so we could ride under them easily. With the irrigation channel next to it, the surface of the path was often damp, but not too muddy or slippery. We met a few groups of mountain bikers and walkers and crossed a few back roads, but otherwise had the route to ourselves.

A steeper ride on the west side of the island

At the western end of the island, we took on a steeper descent through the forest, followed by a spectacular tarmac drop from Faja Da Ovelha to the sea at Paul do Mar.

A short climb on an uneven back road brought us to the top of a wide track descending through the forest. Some parts were steeper and wet, while most were wide and gravelly. Here there were ruined buildings and we encountered horned cattle sat in the middle of the track, but no people.

>>> Gravel bike buyer's guide

Finally reaching a village, where corn cobs were drying in the sun, we took some well-maintained levadas with concreted paths next to them, which brought us to the top of the road down to the coast. This offered amazing views and an equally amazing decent, complete with hairpins, tunnels and a final race along the coast road.

Porto Santo island

A three hour ferry ride, or 15 minutes by air, from Funchal is the neighbouring island of Porto Santo. With links to Christopher Columbus, it’s much lower than Madeira.

This means that it is drier and more gravelly as it doesn’t generate its own weather so much. But don’t think it’s flat: in 40km riding round the island we climbed 1000m, with some long, steep ascents on tarmac towards the eastern end.

>>> Best cycling holidays 2019: where to go, how to plan your trip and what to pack

The dry gravel tracks along the largely deserted north coast provide some spectacular riding above the rocky cliffs. There’s a fast, flat road along the sandy beaches on the south of the island through its principal town and back to the ferry port. There’s also a long tarmac ascent to the lookout at Pico do Castelo if you fancy yet more climbing.

Again, we encountered intermittent light drizzle on Porto Santo, but this was more a relief from the sun than an inconvenience.

Getting to Madeira

An overseas territory of Portugal, Madeira lies some 1000km off the coast of Europe and 500km off Morocco. It’s 400km north of the Canary Islands.

Madeira has direct flights of around three to four hours from several UK airports. You can also fly via Lisbon, with TAP being the airline with the most frequent services to Funchal’s airport.

It was even difficult to find enough space for the airport on Madeira; the runway is partially built on stilts over a ravine and has a slope to it.

Close your eyes and try to imagine the perfect cycling climb. What would it look like, and what would it contain?

It would be not too long but not too short; not too steep but not too shallow. It would have a nice steady gradient, but with a couple of ramps to keep you on your toes. Naturally, the scenery should be spectacular. Ideally, it would feature a cafe somewhere, serving good coffee. The weather should be warm and pleasant, the road surface smooth and predictable.

>>> Cycling in Mallorca

>>> How to climb Honister Pass: East to West (video)

Of course, it would have to have hairpins. Lots of hairpins. Maybe even a hairpin that loops round on itself as the road descends and goes under an bridge.

Think that’s being silly? No. What you’ve just imagined actually exists. It’s on the island of Mallorca, and it’s called Sa Calobra.

One way up

That hairpin is technically called a ‘spiral bridge’ and, unless you like to ride your bike up and down multi-storey car parks, there are fewer than five of them in Europe, and most are motorways.

Descending on this road, the unique spiral comes not far from the top and sits on a stony outcrop. One moment there’s a wall of rock to your right; the next there’s nothing but open air, the wind barking in your ears, and you sense that one false move would leave you and your bike floating in the Mediterranean.

A little further down towards the tiny seaside village of Sa Calobra which gives the climb its name, two rock faces have collapsed together like 30ft dominoes, leaving just enough space for a lane of tarmac to squeeze between them.

>>> Classic cycling climbs: Alpe d’Huez

“You’ve got to concentrate so much on the way down, and they don’t bend much, those rocks, do they?” says Martin Maltby, a veteran of the climb, having made a number of trips to Mallorca with his club Doncaster Wheelers.

There’s a reason why the descent of Sa Calobra sticks in the mind. Unlike most other climbs — where you ride to the bottom, ride up and ride down, either back the way you came or down the other side — everybody experiences Sa Calobra from the top down.

The road itself doesn’t actually go anywhere besides that little cluster of cafes in the old fishing port. Unless you wait a few days (or, if you’re there in winter, a few months) for the little pleasure boat full of tourists to take you back to Port de Pollença, the only way in is down and the only way out is up. Sa Calobra demands commitment.

>>> 17 of the best international sportives to ride in 2016: including the Mallorca312

“There’s no getting out of it, but you don’t ever get bored of that descent,” says Movistar’s Alex Dowsett. “I know I’ve never experienced anything like it. The first time I got a GoPro camera, I was quite excited to go to Sa Calobra and bomb down it.”

The dead-end also gives the road the distinction of having never featured in a professional bike race, for obvious reasons. Far from detracting from the climb, this lack of televisual exposure boosts its reputation in a way. Sa Calobra doesn’t need any racing myths and legends; its spectacular physique alone is what makes it special.

Popular with the pros

That said, glance down the leaderboard for the official Sa Calobra Strava segment and you’ll find many professional cyclists. At the time of writing, Team Sky’s David Lopez had the fastest time: 24:59. With the climb being the location for the team’s annual pre-season test — a race in all but name — it comes as no surprise that there is more than one Sky rider in the top 20, too.

>>> Rider climbs the mountain that bears his name on his 103rd birthday 

“It’s a pretty good climb for a test because it’s relatively steady,” says Sky’s Ian Boswell, who made sure he sprinted a little further than the actual Sky test finish line in order to complete the segment (but still sits second to his team-mate Lopez by 11 seconds).

>>> Ian Boswell: Chris Froome pushed me to the limit training in Africa

“We do a standing start and everything,” he adds, “which maybe hinders your Strava time because you don’t get momentum and the run up.”

Rumour has it that Sir Bradley Wiggins holds the unofficial record for Sa Calobra, having set a time of around 22:30 during the winter before his Tour de France victory (which gives a VAM, or ascent rate, of 1,750m per hour). Given that a number of other professional teams and riders use the climb

for pre-season training, times are often understandably kept under wraps.

“I’d be looking around the 420W mark if I did give it a good effort,” adds Dowsett, who bumped into Boswell on Sa Calobra while training for his Hour Record attempt.

“My best time is the one on Strava [27:43], but I could be a proper cyclist and give you some excuses which might account for 10-15 seconds. I had water bottles, headwinds… and some goats running out in front of me.”

Conquer any climb, including Sa Calobra

For amateur riders, even if their time up the climb is closer to the one-hour mark, Sa Calobra is still every bit as enjoyable.

“If you’re a club and you come over to Mallorca, it’s one that is on your list of challenges,” says Maltby. “If somebody passes you, you try and keep up with them for a minute and see how long you can hang on.

“We just compete against each other to be the best in the club.”

Coll of the col

Whether it’s mysterious sightings or strange lights appearing over the sea, there’s more to Sa Calobra than just a beautiful road. An engineering masterpiece, it was designed by the appropriately named Antonio Parietti Coll and was finished in 1932.

There was little economic motive to join Sa Calobra to the rest of the island by road; the sinuous route down the mountain was built to attract tourists, and Parietti Coll had every incentive to make the road as much of a draw as its destination.

The 270-degree hairpin was his creative solution to a high drop in the rock that made a standard hairpin impossible. As for strange sightings, local legend makes Sa Calobra and the peaks around it a UFO hotspot.

How to do it

• Flights to Mallorca are available from a range of UK airports throughout the year.
• Officially called the Coll dels Reis, the MA-2141 to Sa Calobra is just off the main road through the Serra de Tramuntana mountains.
• Mallorca is full of bike-friendly hotels and hire companies; Port de Pollença and Port d’Alcudia are popular bases and are both around 40km from the top of Sa Calobra. Bikehead.cc offer a great range of bikes, including the Colnago C60 in the video.
• A standard 39/25 gearing is OK for pros and very fit cyclists; a compact chainset and 27 or 28 tooth rear sprocket will make life much more pleasant for others.
• Winter and spring are the best seasons to ride; during summer, the road is choked with tourist buses and an early start is necessary to avoid them. However, the weather in early spring can still be chilly and the climb is exposed to the wind off the sea. Snow is also not uncommon, so come prepared.

A version of this article was originally printed in the March 19, 2015 issue of Cycling Weekly 

In partnership with Haute Route - Infinity Pass sign up page here

Haute Route’s famous multi-day events allow you to focus on racing some of the world’s most iconic mountain ranges, backed by pro-level support. Since its inaugural event from Geneva to Nice in 2011, the roster has grown to 13 races all over the world, taking riders to some of the most beautiful, famous and challenging bike riding destinations on Earth.

A new innovation for next year is the Infinity Pass, which will allow you unlimited, unrestricted access to as many of Haute Route’s 2019 seven-day and three-day events as you wish. Currently priced at €1450 (£1,290), which is less than the cost of one seven-day event or two three-day events, the Infinity Pass allows you to train for and test your fitness at several different events in one season, creating your own grand tour race calendar without facing spiraling costs.

Move quickly though, because Infinity Passes at that price are only available for a limited time - you can sign up here.

Haute Route events offer a challenge that’s unique to every participant. The routes feature plenty of big climbs, and the pro-style support, timed stages and post-race briefings can foster a competitive atmosphere as riders battle it out for the overall victory. At the same time, there is also a strong sense of camaraderie with riders from all over the globe, each of whom will have their own friends and rivals to beat, while others will focus on just making it to the finish.

Whatever your goals, if you’ve ever longed to experience a grand tour style event, this is your chance. Smooth-running daily logistics, mechanical support, masseurs, top-level nutrition and on-the-road safety vehicles make the Haute Route events the closest an amateur rider can come to the full pro-rider experience.

Alongside existing events across Europe and the USA, the 2019 calendar also includes a perfect opportunity for a winter getaway with a three-day event in Oman in March, and a season finale in Mexico in October. Every route offers not just hard riding but stunning locations, rich with cycling culture, and the variety of longer and shorter events makes the Infinity Pass an especially enticing option.

Rémi Duchemin, founder and CEO of the Haute Route Cycling Series, says: “I’m delighted to expand our Haute Route concept in the Middle-East and Central America which will allow us to offer a range of enthralling destinations to our high-end competitive riders coming from 50+ countries.

“Cycling is now a truly worldwide phenomenon and we believe that the Infinity Pass will allow cyclists to experience exciting cycling events across the globe with the best value proposition in the market.”

Haute Route 2019 Calendar

Muscat, Oman

March 1-3

The perfect opportunity for a winter getaway with some warm weather riding.

Asheville, USA

May 17-19

Experience the Blue Ridge mountains in a location that many professional-level riders call home.

Dolomites, Italy

June 7-9, 14-16

Experience some stunning climbs engrained in Italian cycling folklore.

Mavic Rockies, USA

June 22-28

An unforgettable combination of iconic hardpack dirt roads and high altitude passes in Colorado’s Rocky Mountains.

Alpe d’Huez, France

July 12-14

Three days in the French Alps taking on arguably the world’s most famous cycling challenge.

Stavanger, Norway

August 2-4

Take on climbs with majestic switch-backs in amongst the Norwegian fjords – an area of world class tourism.

Pyrenees, France

August 17-23

Featuring legendary climbs and hidden gems, discover the raw beauty of this mountain range.

Utah, USA

August 23-25

Experience out-of-this-world Utah landscapes and some challenging, majestic climbs.

Alps, France

August 25-31

The original Haute Route event in a mountain range that is synonymous with pro cycling.

Stelvio, Italy

September 20-22

Three days of riding on and around one of the most recognisable and respected climbs in cycling culture.

San Francisco, USA

September 27-29

Set against the backdrop of the iconic Golden Gate Bridge, enjoy three timed stages in one of the most visited and beautiful cities in the world.

Ventoux, France

October 4-6

Three ascents of the legendary Mont Ventoux all from one location, Bédoin.

Valle de Bravo, Mexico

October 18-20

Savour the pine and fir forests carpeting the surrounding hills as well as the gleaming Lago Avándaro.

The Haute Route experience: what to expect

Enjoy the unique experience of being treated like a professional cyclist.

• On the road safety, mechanical and medical support.
• Daily massages, meal and briefing after the racing is completed.
• Accurate results of timed sections by overall time and by category.
• Full logistical support meaning that your focus is exclusively on your riding.
• 7-day packages with various accommodation options, including breakfast and transportation of your bags.
• 3-day packages at an official event hotel or recommendations on where to find your own accommodation near the event village.

In partnership with Valais/Wallis Promotion

A region of dramatic contrasts, from its majestic 4,000 metre mountain summits, to its gentle valleys, rich with vineyards, Valais is a fascinating area to explore by road bike. Its natural terrain feels handcrafted for cycling with over 740km of beautiful roads and 20 mountain passes to discover. At the end of a satisfying day in the saddle you will receive a warm welcome at any one of its 70 bike-friendly hotels.

A playground for cyclists of all levels and disciplines, you can take your pick from low-level, easy spins along valley roads or pit your fitness against some of the most fearsome climbs in Switzerland. The legendary Grimsel Pass, Furka Pass, Nufenen Pass and Grand St Bernard are all in this region.

Seven of Valais’s 20 mountain passes are over 2,000m high. Many of these passes have been made famous by the Tour de Suisse, and the Tour de France most recently visited Valais in 2016.

Steve Morabito, of Groupama–FDJ, one of Switzerland’s most successful professional cyclists, lives and trains in Valais for the range of terrain and its excellent climbing.

An easier, but no less scenic ride, is the Route du Rhône alongside the Rhône river, or the Chemin du Vignoble, the road through the vineyards, for a chance to see a different aspect to this varied region.

After a tough day of cycling, the gastronomy of Valais is a welcome reward. Pair its famous Raclette du Valais AOP, a rich dish of melted cheese, potatoes and pickles, with a board of traditional Valais plate and toast your day’s success with one of the many local wines.

As Switzerland’s number one wine region, boasting over 50 different grape varieties and the highest continuous vineyards in Europe, at 1,150m, the wines from this region are truly exceptional.

Another treat for tired legs, and the perfect way to recover after your exertions, is a trip to the thermal baths that bubble up from deep beneath the Valais mountains. The thermal water relaxes the muscles, stimulates the circulation, and its mineral content alleviates chronic joint pain. Lie back in the hot spa water and look up at the Valais mountain scenery while planning your next day of riding.

While there’s more than enough road riding to keep you entertained, if you wanted to mix up your activities or try something different you’re in the right place. This is one of the world’s most spectacular playgrounds, with 1,500km of off-road trails, more hiking trails than you can imagine, and plenty more extreme or sedate outdoor activities.

And all this is just a short hop away. Travelling to Valais from the UK could not be easier and with a number of bike shops in the area offering hire of high-end machines it is possible to visit unencumbered by your bike box.

Four must-do activities in Valais

1 Valais Cycling Tour

Whether you opt for a guided or self-supported trip this epic route of 740km, covering 18,500m of climbing over 25 mountain passes is sure to be a challenge you remember. It can be completed in anywhere between seven and 14 days and is split into 10 individual stages, all on peaceful, low traffic roads, with numerous accommodation options along the way.

2 Cyclosportive des Vins du Valais

Now in its seventh consecutive year this event is always held on August 1 and celebrates two of the greatest pleasures of this region; wine and cycling. There are three timed courses, 98km, 130km and 138km with a maximum altitude of 2,350m. A total of 1,200 participants ride the winding roads between the vines before tackling the steeper challenges of the mountains.

3 Tour des Stations Look Marmotte Ultrafondo

New to the calendar in 2018 this event is part of the legendary Look Marmotte Granfondo Series. The new Ultrafondo format is the ultimate road cycling challenge, covering 7,400 metres of climbing in 220km. Also run on the same day is the Look Marmotte Gran Fondo Valais, a more traditional sportive distance of 130km with 4,500 metres of climbing.

4 Tour de Suisse

For an opportunity to watch professional racing, as well as enjoying your own cycling in the Valais region, time your visit to coincide with the Tour de Suisse. Taking place in late June this race is traditionally a proving ground for riders preparing for the Tour de France. Goms, in the upper Valais region, is already confirmed as a stage start and finish in 2019.

In partnership with The Platinum Card® from American Express®

Cypress trees lining rolling hills, fresh pasta served with ragu di cinghiale (wild boar stew) and deep red wines flowing - what's not to love about a cycling tour through Tuscany? Italy, and more precisely Tuscany, is like a trip to Mecca for the cycling, food and wine faithful. Nowhere else can you find such a mix of history, food and - what everyone needs on a holiday - a take-it-easy attitude.

A bicycle tour provides the best way to connect the dots because those two wheels changed the country.

They helped locals to build a nation in the Industrial era. Once known only locally Sangiovese wines spread throughout Italy with the help of the bicycle, then on to Europe and eventually the world.

On the bike, you can stop and put your foot down to smell the warm Tyrrhenian breeze blowing over rows of vines or spot a local to ask: 'Dov'eun buon trattoria qua vicino?' ('Where is there a good restaurant nearby?')

Getting started

Florence, known as the cradle of the Renaissance, offers a good base with its endless museums and monuments to visit Florence by Bike (www. florencebybike.it) rents bicycles for those who need them and if you want a guide, contact Riding with Cosimo (www.ridingwithcosimo.com).

The truly cycle-minded must visit Filofficina (www.facebook.com/ biciepocafirenze) and its Eroica vintage bikes on the south side of town. Stay there for the day, finding a local bar to tuck into Brunello and porchetta cold cuts.

One popular restaurant in this artisan Oltrarno zone is II Santo Bevitore (www.ilsantobevitore.com) where, judging by the 'holy drinker' name, wine-lovers are served well.

Book one or two days ahead to ensure you have a spot. If ribollita - a Tuscan vegetable and bread soup - is not your thing then consider any dish with a lampredotto (tripe) sauce, for those who like adventure, or the famous bistecca Fiorentina (a healthy loin steak, served rare to medium-rare).

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From Florence

The rolling hills south of Florence towards Siena flow like a sea of green and golden waves. A challenging hill rewards you with a breathtaking view and descent to another wine valley.

Ride south through lmpruneta. Depending on your abilities, you could either go up through La Panca to Passo de Sugame then down to Greve or through Chiocchio to Greve. In Panzano, you'll be rewarded with a couple of great restaurants.

If you haven't indulged in a Fiorentina steak yet, now is your chance at the Officina Della Bistecca (www.dariocecchini.com). To start, share a carpaccio di culo and a bottle of II Molino di Grace Chianti Classico.

Back-track down the road to Lamole and turn up to Vignamaggio (www.vignamaggio.com) to stay for the night or if the steak gave you extra strength, push on to Radda. From Radda, you can decide to make it a two- or three-day tour.

Given the extra day, you can ride a loop around the Radda countryside. Cycle out towards Badia a Coltibuono (www.coltibuono. com), turning first to descend then climb to Castello di Brolio (ricasoli.com). A tour of the castle's gardens is a must with its wine tasting included.

Around Radda

Ride on to Carlino d'Oro (+39 0577 747 136), a simple and honest Tuscan trattoria with views of the rolling countryside. Pair a plate of tagliatelle and ragu with Brolio wine.

Dessert? The spectacular road down through San Regalo towards Pianella. At the main road, turn right and climb back through Gaiole to reach Radda.

Villa Campomaggio Resort & Spa (www.hotelvillacampomaggio.it) in Radda offers a perfect base for your trip. Its bar serves the best wines from the Val d'Arbia and Val di Pesa to accompany a light dinner.

Travel north on the third day via Castellina and the hilltop town of San Donato in Poggio. Just before San Donato, you can stop at one of the many wineries that offer tastings and have restaurants.

Try Casa Emma (www.casaemma.com), which is surrounded by Sangiovese and Merlot vines. Then continue through to San - Casciano to reach Florence. Once there take a seat outside a bar and reflect on the day.

Perhaps ask the owner for a dinner recommendation; chances are there is an authentic trattoria nearby.

Gregor Brown is based in Florence, writes for Cycling Weekly and covers major cycling races including the Giro d'ltalia and Tour de France

Peter Cossins lives on the French side of the Pyrenees mountains. He's currently crowdfunding to publish a book on the area A Cyclist's Guide to the Mountains: The Pyrenees, and also has a guide to racing tips and tricks out in June called Full Gas: How to Win a Bike Race – Tactics from Inside the Peloton

After he’d won the 2004 Giro d’Italia title, Damiano Cunego switched his focus to the Tour de France, figuring that if he could thrive on the climbs in his home country he could impress just as much on those in the sport’s biggest race. What Cunego hadn’t counted on, though, was the Pyrenees, which he later described as “not like any mountains I’ve climbed before.” He further explained: “It’s hot, humid and the climbs are harder mentally than they are physically… The Pyrenees are like nothing I’ve seen or climbed before.”

>>> Best cycling holidays

Living on the French side of the chain that runs from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean, I can appreciate the point that Cunego was trying to make. In terms of height, the Pyrenean passes are mostly dwarfed by the famous ascents in the Alps and Dolomites, where the roads are generally better engineered and more regular in gradient. But find a rhythm there and you can usually stick with it.

However, in the Pyrenees, and particularly on the French side, many of the passes are routes that have been used by shepherds, traders and livestock for thousands of years, the stereotypical goat tracks covered by tarmac. Often cutting through dense, deciduous woodland, there is something other-worldly about them, a feeling frequently enhanced by the lack of traffic. Often linking one into the next, without the need – or respite! – for valley riding, the Pyrenees are the perfect playground for climbers.

Here’s how to make the best of them…

Why go to the Pyrenees?

There’s all that Tour de France history for a start. The race first ventured into the range in 1910, with back-to-back stages that led overall winner Octave Lapize to brand the organisers “assassins”. Over the subsequent century and more, climbs like the Tourmalet, Aubisque and Peyresourde have gained legendary status, the former becoming the most visited climb on the Tour route and appearing almost every year since Lapize’s famous outburst.

With more than 500 passes to choose from – and that’s just including those over 1,000m – there are almost limitless riding options right along the chain, particularly on the French side. Consequently, it’s easy to put together circuits to suit riders of every ability, from those riding in the mountains for the first time to much more experienced riders who want to tackle Tour-like routes.

It’s quiet. The French department of Ariège, for instance, which sits halfway between Toulouse and the mountain state of Andorra, is about half the size of Yorkshire but with less than 3 per cent of its population. Once away from the main population centres, which are all small, it’s not hard to find roads that are almost car-free.

When to go and how to get there

The lushness of the terrain on the French side of the Pyrenees testifies to the fact that the weather can be unpredictable even in the middle of summer. Affected by weather fronts coming off the Atlantic and the Mediterranean, it can also be tempestuous, so you’ve got to be prepared for anything. However, rain doesn’t tend to linger too long. While the Tour’s passage in July is the main incentive for most to visit, the months either side of this tend to be more settled, and the autumn months can be spectacularly so. Apart from Spain’s Basque Country, which is equally verdant, the other side of the range is much drier and consistently hotter.

>>> Cycling abroad: hire a bike or take your own? 

As the biggest city lying close to the Pyrenees and an immensely important hub for the aeronautical industry as well, Toulouse is the best-connected airport to the UK with daily flights all year round. With lots of often very cheap car hire options available, it is little more than an hour’s drive from the nearest passes in the Ariège and Couserans. As one of France’s busiest airports, Toulouse also boasts a wide range of car hire options, with cheap rates often available, especially if booked well in advance.

>>> How to prepare for a cycling holiday or training camp

To the east of Toulouse, Carcassonne and Perpignan also have regular flights to the UK, as do Tarbes, Pau and Biarritz to the west. On the Spanish side of the massif, Girona and Bilbao are the best options, with the former now well established as a leading cycling destination thanks in large part to the proliferation in the number of professional riders who are based there.

Where to ride

While there are almost infinite possibilities, having a base in certain well-located towns opens up more of these. In France, Foix and nearby towns in the Ariège valley are ideally placed for Tour regulars such as Plateau de Beille, Ax 3 Domaines, the Port de Pailhères and the Col de Péguère, with the brutally steep Mur de Péguère on its southern flank.

Foix stands out because the terrain around it varies so much, from the flatlands around Pamiers just to the north, to rolling hills to the east, some of them topped off with spectacular Cathar castles dating back almost a thousand years, such as Roquefixade and Montségur, to the long passes to the south towards Andorra and to the west towards Saint Girons.

A town with a distinct hippy vibe, Saint-Girons, base for the illustrious Ronde de l’Isard under-23 race, is the gateway to the heavily wooded and often misty peaks of the Couserans, among them the Portet d’Aspet and Col de Menté. With no cross-border routes into Spain, these are some of the quietest roads in France, where you’re almost as likely to come across a Pyrenean chamois (as the isard is also known) as a car.

Further west, the grand spa town of Luchon de Bagnères, generally known as Luchon, has long been a Tour de France stepping stone to major cols, notably the Peyresourde, Port de Balès and ski stations such as Superbagnères. On the other side of the Peyresourde, I’ve always loved the village of Arreau, which sits at the foot of the Col d’Aspin, but the bigger town of Bagnères de Bigorre is a better option for iconic Tour ascents like the Tourmalet and Aubisque.

Over in Spain, Girona is an obvious draw, already covered in our travel series. To the west of it, right on the border with Spain, Puigcerda has a wonderfully dramatic sitting on a ridge above a huge, high-altitude valley that resembles the Wild West. The mountain passes and ski stations around this town are often the key feature of the Volta a Catalunya.

Towards the other end of the range, Sabiñánigo is the start and finish town for Spain’s biggest cyclosportive, the Quebrantahuesos. The thousands that participate in that event cross into Spain via the Somport pass and return via the Portalet. The valley leading into the Spain off the latter is spectacular, with the devilish climb of the Hoz de Jaca well worth a diversion. Jaca, sitting at the foot of the Somport, is also a well-placed as a stopping-off point, with some lovely roads close by that climb towards the Pyrenees before joining the Col de Pierre Saint Martin that crosses into France.

Andorra is another spot well worth a look. Increasingly popular with pro riders, including Dan Martin, Simon Gerrans and the Yates brothers, the tiny country ringed by high peaks is not a place for rouleurs. Almost every road out of Andorra requires climbing beyond 2,000 metres, while many of those within it are equally lofty.

With its low taxes, Andorra has long been a place for the Spanish and French to pick up bargains, and much of the duty-free commercial activity in the valleys reflects this. But once away from the bustling and sometimes ugly valley floor, the riding is stunning and the roads to the ski stations often quiet in what is their low summer season.

Where to stay

While towns like Foix, Bagnères de Bigorre and Sabiñánigo might look like big population centres on the map, they are relatively small towns and are not blessed with abundant accommodation options.

However, the Pyrenees is extremely well equipped with cycling-focused companies offering rooms and, in many cases, guided or supported rides. Pyractif (based in Bertren, to the north of Luchon), Cycle Pyrenees (based in Vernajoul, just outside Foix), The Free Range Chalet (Luchon) and the Hotel Carré Py (Bagnères de Bigorre) are all recommended, while there are plenty more.

For those who fancy getting a full-on taste of the whole range in one single hit, tackling the Raid Pyrénéen is an ideal challenge. Run between Hendaye on the Atlantic coast and Cerbère on the Mediterranean (or vice versa), it’s a timed ride covering just shy of 800km to be completed within 10 days.

The route, which was created by Pau’s Cyclo Club Béarnais in the 1950 and is entirely on the French side of the range, crosses 28 mountain passes, including all of the most renowned, which provide a total of 18,000 metres of vertical gain. The CCB’s website provides a list of hotels along the route, as well as links to companies that take some of the sweat out of the Raid by organising accommodation and ferrying luggage, including Marmot Tours and Sports Tours International.

Services

Most the towns mentioned have bike shops, several of them offering hire services. There are a number of options in both Girona and Sabiñánigo.

Over in France, Vélo Passion in Pamiers (just north of Foix) is a high-end shop with great service, while the Velomondo Bike Hire based in Léran offers a wide range of Giant road bikes for hire, with delivery and collection included within that area. Luchon Mountain Bike offers a good selection of road bikes for hire as well as the MTBs that give it its name. The Pyrénées Vélo Évolution store in Bagnères de Bigorre features top-of-the-range Treks among its hire options.

Off the bike

For those who love the outdoors, the Pyrenees offers a wealth of choice beyond road biking. Although the skiing season ends in early April in most resorts on both sides of the range, many feature numerous summer activities, including mountain biking and hiking.

There is no shortage of watersports, from canoeing to canyoning, while for those who like their interaction with water to be rather more relaxing there are many spa towns and resorts, including Ax les Thermes, Bagnères de Bigorre and Cauterets.

As you’d expect of the high mountains, the scenery is often jaw-droppingly dramatic. Spain’s Ordesa valley and the Cirques of Lescun and Gavarnie are the most celebrated sites, but there are views and sights to be seen in all parts. The Cathar castles of the eastern Pyrenees are so eyrie-like that you’re left wondering how they managed to build them more than 800 years ago.

There are wonders beneath the ground too, notably the Niaux caves with their prehistoric paintings, but also huge caverns at Lombrives and an underground river at Labouiche that can be navigated via punt. At each end of the range, there are fabulous beaches and resorts, including Collioure on the Mediterranean and Biarritz on the Atlantic.

Read more about the Pyrenees in Cossins' book, A Cyclist's Guide to the Mountains: The Pyrenees. If racing is your thing, check out tips and tricks from the pros in his book Full Gas: How to Win a Bike Race – Tactics from Inside the Peloton.

Bonne route, and happy travelling!

Ride in the Dolomites, and the resulting profile will nearly always be comparable with the jagged pearly whites of an alligator's toothy smile.

If there's one thing a Dolomiti ride will never, ever be - it's boring. The northeastern Italian mountains are characterised by an all or nothing attitude - either presenting an upward struggle or a long, freewheel worthy downward slope. There isn't a lot of flat, or certainly not that we've found.

>>> Best cycling holiday

The mountains - part of the Southern Limestone Alps - are spread across three Italian provinces: Belluno, South Tyrol and Trentino.

There's an array of striking climbs within the UNESCO World Heritage site. However, there's still more just outside the border of what is technically the Dolomites. Giants such as the Stelvio, Gavia and Mortirolo are often considered a part of this climber's paradise due to their proximity.

Why go to the Dolomites?

If you love climbing, and aren't a big fan of flat expanses, then the Dolomites could be for you. Even if you're not a huge fan of going up, then the exquisite views offered by the region should be enough to quieten any inward moans.

The testing nature of these up-and-down roads means it doesn't take an awful lot of miles to get an incredibly good workout in, too - so you won't need to go too far to get your fix.

>>> Cycling in Italy

Many pockets of tourism - such as the ski resorts - are incredibly keen to encourage cycling in the area and you'll find velo-friendly hotels, hire, maintenance and related services easy to locate.

If you dabble (or indeed specialise) off-road, there's a fair amount of mountain biking available too - with prestigious MTB events as well as road and a flourishing e-bike market attempts to draw in those otherwise put off by the terrain.

When to go to the Dolomites?

The Dolomites boast excellent riding weather from May to October, with lower levels of precipitation that other areas on the Alps - particularly the northern Dolomites as the southern Dolomite mountains tend to break up the bigger storms. The average rain days vary from four to 10 a month, with May being the wettest in the calendar.

Maximum temperatures (on the valley floor) vary from 19 to 29°C from April to October. The hottest months are June and July, with maximum of 28-29°C - but once you get up high even on these days the heat should still be at a welcome level of warm.

If you're after quieter roads, May, September and October are often considered to be your best bet.

Winter sports typically kick off from December to March and even April - so obviously these months are best avoided.

Where to stay in the Dolomites?

With a selection of ski resorts taking home in the mountains, it should be easy enough to find accommodation plus places to eat in the evening.

In the past, I've stayed in Alta Badia - the South Tyrol ski resort with a central position in the mountains, that promises close proximity to a plethora of climbs.

The central town of the area is Corvara - and it's known as one of the ideal bases for those planning to tackle the prestigious Sella Ronda route.

A popular alternative is Cortina d'Ampezzo - another ski resort which is nestled in an alpine valley, and on the Boite river.

Much of the area was under Austrian possession until 1920 - and the architecture harks back to this period - with steep slatted roofs and wooden chalets. The official language here is Ladin.

Whilst you're in this part of the world, it might be worth taking a day trip to Treviso - the home to a hefty percentage of cycling's industry, including Pinarello, Sidi, Campagnolo, Selle Italia and Fizik.

Closer to the border of Switzerland, you'll find another group of Alpine mountains - the Stelvio (21km, seven per cent), and its lesser used side the Umbrail Pass (13km, eight per cent), the Gavia (17.3km, 7.9 per cent) and Mortirolo (14.3km, 8.3 per cent) being the most famous.

Not technically a part of the Dolomites, just over 150km separates the two areas - so if you're able to travel, then splitting your trip between the two regions can allow you to tick of even more of cycling's most prestigious ascents.

Visiting these giants, I've used Bormio as a base - Hotel Vallecetta to be precise. The town hosts the Alpine Ski World Cup on an annual basis, and played home to the Alpine World Ski Championships in 1985 and 2005.

Bormio is wedged between the Stelvio and Gavia - indeed you can climb one, descend back to base and make your way up the other if you don't fancy a long loop.

Where to ride in the Dolomites?

One of the most famous circuits in the area is the Sella Ronda loop. At 52km (32 miles) it might sound easy, but that covers 1,700 metres of climbing (5577 feet).

The route takes in a selection of iconic passes - the Gardena (9.3km at 6.4 per cent), Sella (5.5km at 7.9 per cent), Pordoi (13km at six per cent) and Campolongo (5.8km at six per cent).  Of course, if it's not far enough, there's nothing stopping you completing more than one lap.

Not on the route, but absolutely worth exploring is the Fedaia climb. From Caprile, it comprises of 14km, with an average at 7.6 per cent, though there are grades as high as 18 per cent along the way.

Though the Fedia is considered by many to be the hardest climb the Dolomites has to offer, it also provides striking views of the hairpins, valleys and adjacent mountains stretching far below, or above you (depending how far up you happen to be before you actually look up and take in your surroundings).

If you're staying in the shadow of the Stelvio's homeland, then one must-ride is a loop that allows you to climb the Bormio side of the ascent plus the Umbrail Pass - there's a GPX route here.

Alternatively, you can go a bit 'out and back' and climb the Stelvio and Gavia from Bormio and gain a lot of feet in not very many miles.

Events in the Dolomites

With a wealth of exceptional riding terrain in the region, in recent years local tourism boards have come together to create some dedicated cycling events to join the existing host of already well known sportives.

Sella Ronda bike day first took place in 2005. Now drawing over 20,000 riders annually, it's a day in which the 30 mile loop is closed to cars so that cyclists of all kinds can enjoy the passes.

The inclusive event attracts everyone from hardened road riders to (incredibly hardy!) parents with cargo bikes, e-bike riders and beginners on hybrid bikes.

The event - which takes place in June each year - has been bolstered with the newly added Dolomites Bike Day.

Organised, in part, by the Alta Badia tourism office, the route covers 57km/36 miles - all closed to traffic from 10am to 3pm. Passes include the Campolongo, Flazarego and Valparola - adding up to 1390 metres (4500ft) of climbing.

For those seeking a greater distance, there's the big one: the Maratona des Dolomites. 

There's three distances on offer, the longest being 138km (85 miles) with 4230 metres (13,877 feet) of climbing. The route takes in the most challenging and dramatic of the areas climbs, and was established in 1987.

Cycling in France offers a huge number and variety of options. With an area twice that of the UK and a similar population, there's less traffic and it's home to stunning countryside, much of it famous from the Tour de France's route each uly.

Although its famous climbs hold the limelight, there are plenty of less gruelling options if you don't want to spend every day ticking off cols. It's a great destination for some of the best cycling holidays. 

For those in search of major ups and downs, then there are the passes of the Pyrenees and mountains of the Alps, which stretch for almost 300km from Geneva to the Côte d'Azur. 

Keeping it more relaxed, the Loire Valley has a lot to offer and the undulating roads of Normandy and the Dordogne sit firmly in the middle.

Here's a look at some of the key destinations for cyclists, plus the why, when, how and what for each.

Normandy/Brittany

The northern end of France is sometimes overlooked. However, it's an area which possesses some stunning undulating roads, with plenty of winding narrow country lanes that quietly weave through farmland. The Pay de Caux boasts chalk cliffs and sharp climbs out of deep valleys.

The other pro of this area is that you can get there via ferry. Touring cyclists can leave their front door in the UK, find a route to Newhaven, hop on the ferry to Dieppe then begin the French part of their adventure.

Those not keen to repeat any part of the journey could head further north, getting the ferry home from Calais. Though fairly industrial itself, Calais is surrounded by the Parc Naturel Régional des Caps et Marais d'Opale - the Regional Natural Park of Capes and Marshes of the Opal Coast - from where you can spot the cliffs of Dover.

Inland from Boulogne, the land is hilly, undulating and sparsely populated, making for enjoyable, quiet riding. 

Heading the other way from Dieppe, Brittany is an alternative, and those looking for a gentle option may wish to seek out the 365km canal path from Nantes to Brest. Again, it's undulating inland.

Most of the summer months will be pretty safe bets to visit - max temperatures sit at about 20°C in July and August so you're not likely to bake. Average rainy days in Normandy can be as many as 19 a month in peak summer as opposed to 10-12 in Brittany - something to bear in mind, but in general the climate isn't that different from the UK.

Pyrenees

The Pyrenees mountains create a natural border between France and Spain, and they've played a pivotal role in many editions of the Tour de France, with the Col du Tourmalet the original Tour de France Hors Categorie climb, first visited in 1910 and over 80 times since.

I have stayed in the sleepy town of Tarbes before, but somewhere like Pau offers a bit more for the tourist in you - with views along the Boulevard des Pyrénées and the Château de Pau to check out when off the bike.

Getting there is simple, there are direct flights from the UK to Toulouse, Lourdes and Rodez. In terms of when to go, the season kicks off in April once the ski stations close, but there's likely to still be snow up high.

On the first Saturday of June each year there's a celebration that sees thousands of cyclists follow the Le Géant statue as it rides on a truck up the Tourmalet, and from then onwards it should be a pretty safe bet to ride. The roads get quite busy in July and August - we reckon September is the sweet spot.

Must ride climbs include the Col d'Aubisque, Col du Soulor, Col d'Aspin, Col du Tourmalet and Hautacam.

The Col du Soulour from Argelès-Gazost in the East covers 19.5km - at 5.2 per cent. This includes a fairly flat section between the village of Arras-en-Lavedan and Arrens - before a tougher last 7km at 8.3 per cent. It can be connected to the Col d'Aubisque via the breathtakingly stunning Cirque du Litor, and the Aubisque itself is 16.6km long, with an average gradient of 7.2 per cent from Laruns.

The Col du Tourmalet is 19km at 7.5 per cent from Luz or 16.5km at 7.5 per cent from Sainte-Marie-de-Campan, and it's the most used climb of the Tour de France so simply can't be missed.

If you're heading to the Tourmalet, then it's worth having a go at the nearby Col d'Aspin, which has featured in the Tour countless times thanks to being a through route to other climbs. From Sainte-Marie-de-Campan to the west, the ascent is 12.8 km at an average of five per cent. From the other side, Arreau to the east, the climb is harder at 12km at an average of 6.5 per cent.

Another must-do is the 'road to nowhere' climb of Hautacam. At 17.3km it's 6.8 per cent, there's only one way up and down, so you can escape a lot of the traffic.

Morzine

Better known for its uplifts and network of, frankly terrifying, downhill mountain bike trails, Morzine's road cycling reputation is not as developed as it could be. The ski resort in the French Alps did get a bit of a roadie push in 2017, however, with four stage of the Tour de France taking place in its region of Haute-Savoie.

The area boasts some unmissable climbs - such as the Col de le Ramaz (14km, 7 per cent from Mieussy) - from which you can see the white peaks of Mont Blanc - Col de Joux Plane (11.6km, 8.5 per cent from Samoens) and Col de la Joux Verte (25.2km at 5.8 per cent from Montriond). If you don't want to ride too far but fancy a mountain, you can ride the Montée d'Avoriaz (13km, 4.5 per cent) straight out of town.

When it comes to relaxing, there's Les Gets lake, which can entertain the whole family with its open air pools, awesome cream-on-top coffee, pony rides and walks.

You'll enjoy some absolutely breathtaking views and there's nothing stopping you riding over to Switzerland - a country that's landscape puts it on many a 'to do' list, but one that's also been announced as the 'most expensive place in the world to visit'.

Since Morzine and surrounding ski resorts such as Avoriaz are set up for the winter tourists, there's lots to do in the evening. There are plenty of bike shops to keep you stocked, too - though you'll find more catering for mountain bikers than roadies.

Accommodation isn't hard to come by, either, I've stayed in Rez d’Arnica chalet and can recommend it as of 2017.

To get there, Geneva airport is about 90 minutes away.  Temperatures max out at 18-22ºC from June to September - though bear in mind that surrounding roads will be busier in school holiday periods.

Loire Valley

A world heritage site (as rated by UNESCO), the Loire Valley carries the names 'Cradle of the French' and the 'Garden of France'.

The area surrounds the Loire River in central France. There you'll find vineyards (and lots of the resulting product!), orchards, an abundance of farm land and towns of historic interest, since the valley has played home to settlements since the Middle Palaeolithic period. It's the perfect place for a relaxed cycling holiday or touring. With a large river running down its middle, it's a relatively flat ride.

One way to explore the area would be to tackle La Loire à Vélo (The Loire by Bike) cycle trail. The signposted pedal route features well-surfaced paths and roads, from one end of the river to the other. At 900km long, there's no expectation that you make it the whole way. The regional train line (TER) travels the length of the route, and around 20 stations have cycle access.

There are several châteaux along the way, plus vineyards and of course the river itself to keep your mind entertained as you pedal.

Max temperatures range from 19-23ºC from May to September and there are several cycle travel agencies who can provide hire bikes. You can fly to Angers, Nantes, or Tours, or combine your visit with a road trip, driving the 500km from Calais.

Nice

Nice (or probably tax-free Monaco) is home to a high number of professional riders - and it's easy to see why.

Located on the French Riviera (or Côte d'Azur), the south-eastern capital on the Mediterranean coast has fantastic transport links (direct flights to Nice go from Gatwick, Heathrow, Liverpool, London City, Luton, Manchester and Stansted), stunning inland roads as well as some notable climbs.

There's the Col d’Èze on Nice's doorstep, often the finale of Paris-Nice in the spring before it plunges into Nice or used as a final stage uphill time trial. It's 10km at 4.9 per cent. 

The Col de la Madone is a favourite testing ground for Tour de France hopefuls - 14.5km at 6.7 per cent and almost passes Sainte-Agnès, considered one of the most picturesque villages in France.

Since the region is popular among non-bike-riding holidaymakers, there's a myriad of accommodation choices as well as places to eat and evening entertainment. However, those jetting to the area with the velo at front of mind will be well served - with cafes such as Café du Cycliste on hand with hire bikes as well as coffee and kit.

Being on the Mediterranean coast, temperatures are a bit hotter than elsewhere in France - with max temps of 17 to 24°C from May to October. It's even hotter inland and can be bitterly cold in winter.

Provence

Nestled in south-eastern France, and bordering neighbouring Italy, Provence is home to the southern Alps as well as less arduous rolling hills.

Its coastline is Mediterranean, and its southern boundary forms the Côte d'Azur (or French Riviera) and Nice - but riders looking to explore the key attraction of Mont Ventoux will likely want to stay inland.

At the base of the mountain, Bédoin is a popular choice - but it won't give you much warm up. When visiting Ventoux, I stayed at Hotel Les Geraniums in Le Barroux - which afforded a gentle warm up, albeit one which featured a short ascent up the Col de la Madeleine.

Ventoux - called the "Giant of Provence" or "The Bald Mountain"- is the mountain which claimed the life of British rider Tom Simpson in the 1967 Tour.

Alcohol, amphetamines and stomach illness played a part, too - but Ventoux is still steeped in legend for its harsh slopes and sometimes violent winds which can make the uppermost kilometres even harder. Climbed from Bédoin it's 22km long, at 7.6 per cent.

Whilst the region plays host to Ventoux and other mountains - such as Gorges de la Nesque (19.7km at 2.3 per cent) - there's also easier routes through vineyards and olive groves. Your stay needn't feature a daily dose of upwards suffering unless you want it to.

To get there, you can fly to Marseille, Avignon or Nîmes airports - or you can drive, but it's about 1,000km from Calais. As per many other of our French locations, you're best off planning your trip around September if you're after good weather and quiet roads.

Dordogne Valley

Sitting between the popular Loire Valley and the heights of the Pyrenees mountains, the Dordogne Valley is intercepted by the 300 mile long river of the same name.

In the valley, you'll find country lanes, and stone buildings that hark back to a more sedate era. Indeed, this area has been likened to a sunnier version of the Cotswolds.

Here, we're back in the domain of châteaux, vineyards, forests and rivers. There's a selection of fortified villages that could make for excellent bases - like Beynac and La Roque Gageac, or opt for Bergerac for proximity to the airport and an array of restaurants to keep fuel levels up.

There's several leisurely cycle routes outlined for those looking to explore - perhaps the most quintessential being the Circuit Vallée de la Dordogne - which is 80km long and visits the villages of Cenac, La Roque-Gageac, Beyanc, Vezac, Sarlat, Calviac en Perigord, Saint Julien de Lampon, Veyrignac, Vitrac and Turnac - crossing the river multiple times.

Further inland, things get hillier as the river descends into a gorge and you're a short hop from the climbs of the Massif Central like the Puy Mary, that have seen action in the Tour de France.

The weather should be kind between the spring months of April and May and October - though expect traffic during summer holiday periods. Many airlines fly to Bergerac Airport, or Bordeaux.

Haute-Alpes

Saving the most mountainous until last - Haute-Alpes lets its name do the talking.

Here you can tick off quite a few of the greatest climbs in cycling - the 21 hairpin bends of Alpe d'Huez (13.8km, 8.1 per cent), Col de la Croix de Fer (30km at 5.1 per cent) and the Col du Galibier (18km at 6.9 per cent).

If you want to make sure you collect the very best cols the area has to offer, Haute Route runs a three day tour in July, with all the customary luxuries thrown in - from marshals to mechanical support and pro photography.

There's three major airports serving the area - Geneva, Lyon and Grenoble. Le Bourg-d'Oisans is a sensible area to situate yourself in, giving you a gentle spin before the base of the climb and  stunning views of the Romanche river. The town has been visited by the Tour de France on several occasions, too.

Alternatively, you could put yourself right in the middle of it - staying at one of the mountain resorts such as Alpe d'Huez or Les Deux Alpes. This of course means leaving or arriving is never going to be easy.

Off the bike, make time to explore the national parks, such as the Écrins National Park.

Once again, September is a great time to visit. Any time after mid-October, and there's a chance your way will be barred by snow.

Mallorca is, along with other Spanish hotspots like Girona, the Costa Blanca and the Canary Islands one of the go-to destinations for riders looking for some sun and smooth roads for a cycling holiday for spring riding abroad.

A frequent training camp base for Ineos Grenadiers, Astana, Canyon/SRAM and - whilst we're at it - most of the pro peloton at one time or another, the Balearic Island is a popular host for amateur clubs and teams as well.

Spring is the most popular time to visit, and in the months between February and April it's near impossible to ride on the island without coming across several miniature pelotons made up of pros, amateurs or groups that are somewhere in the middle.

Considering a visit? Here's what you need to know...

Why go to Mallorca?

Firstly - if you need convincing as to why you should make Mallorca your destination of choice, it's because you can almost always expect a trio of good weather, mixed terrain and (largely) understanding drivers.

When to go to Mallorca for cycling and how to get there

With its Mediterranean climate, Mallorca gets hot mid-summer. That means the best times to visit are spring, when many riders are chasing sun as they look to up their form for summer and shake off the winter doldrums, or autumn when they're hoping to stretch their summer season by a week and hold onto their form going into winter and the unenviable mix of wet roads and the turbo.

In March and May, maximum temperatures vary from 17 to 22°C, then 23 to 19°C in October and November. December, January and February are cooler but still see highs of around 15°C - though this is variable; the island has seen snow in these months so planning your trip in the off-season proper is a bit of a risk.

Average rain days a month vary from one to seven through the year, so though you might see a couple of wet days, it shouldn't last too long.

If you'd like to time your visit to coincide with an event, then check out the Mallorca 312 sportive. 

This epic sportive is an annual affair which takes place in April each year. Initially, it circumnavigated the coastline - but the route has since been changed to allow for closed roads. You can ride 312km or 167km, and this event sees the island pretty much taken over by cyclists. It gets booked out early though.

For travel, the capital Palma houses an airport - flight times from the UK are usually around two and a half hours.

Palma is about 60km from Pollença, where a lot of riders base themselves. When travelling in small groups, we have typically hired a car, whilst on large group excursions we'd organise a transfer with bike box trailer.

What to take for cycling in Mallorca?

The first question is 'do I take my bike or hire one'? Either option will work - there are plenty of hire services and if you're not staying long this can work out cheaper than paying for the carriage of a bike box by an airline. 

It cuts out the hassle and worry, too - but does mean you'll be riding an unfamiliar machine, although you may be able to hire that dream bike that you've always wanted to ride.

If you do take your own bike, pack shoes and pedals in your hand luggage so you can hire if there's any delay in your bike arriving - this can happen when there are many bikes on one plane (can, not should).

In terms of kit, check forecasts of course, but bear in mind that it'll be chillier on the top of climbs and on descents. Essential items include all manner of warmers (leg, knee, arm), a gilet and packable jacket which will provide you with an extra layer for descents and cafe stops. Check out our ten tips for cycling in the mountains.

Some rides include tunnels - so be sure to pack ideally a set of lights and at the least a rear.

Where to stay when cycling in Mallorca

The longest route around the entire perimeter is 312km - North to South is 75km and East to West is 100km.

Most riders visiting the island will have the opportunity to explore a pretty hefty percentage of its attractions during their stay. However, where you choose to base yourself will of course influence your riding itinerary.

The vast majority of cyclists set up camp in the Northern coastal towns of Port de Pollença and Alcudia.

The key attraction of this area is that it sits close to the edge of the Tramuntana Mountains - the highest point of which is the tip of Puig Major. Whilst evidently there are plenty of adjacent climbs, the area also offers flat roads along the coast and some undulating countryside routes as well.

Whilst Port de Pollença houses the base of the famous 'lighthouse ride' to Formentor, Alcudia can provide some historical ambles around town to explore the 14th century walls. The two are separated by around 10km of sea front so it's not much odds.

An alternative base is Port Soller, which is a little further down the coastline. The busy town can provide plenty of restaurants and a more energetic evening vibe. However, nestled in a bay, the only way out is to ascend one of three climbs - Col de Soller, for example, is 7.4km and six per cent or you could opt for Puig Major at 13.9km and six per cent. No day will start easily.

Areas to avoid are dotted along the South coast - such as Magaluf, Palmanova and s'Arenal. These areas host quite a different holiday experience, and you might struggle to get enough sleep to facilitate your next day's riding plans.

Since Mallorca is an island frequented by cyclists, you won't encounter any struggles finding a hotel or apartment that is bike friendly. Many advertise their bike lock ups, and even work with local shops to provide hire options.

CW has enjoyed many stays at the Duva Hotel, in Port de Pollença, which provides a hearty buffet breakfast and dinner, locked bike cages and a spa with indoor and outdoor pools (the later is ideal for a make-do post ride ice bath).

Similarly, you're not going to struggle finding a bike shop, hire bike or tour guide in Mallorca. There are a fair few providers offering package deals that include board, food and led rides, some with coaching and planned intervals thrown in too if you're training with a specific purpose.

Where to ride in Mallorca

The key attractions in Mallorca are of course the climbs - but you might want to add in a couple of flatter days, too.

Since Port de Pollença and Alcudia are the most popular towns for cycling bases, we've started most ride distances and routes from there.

Sa Calobra

Sa Calobra is probably the most famous ascent on the island. It's a road to nowhere (except a couple of cafes at the base) - so the only real reason for descending is to go back up.

The 9.5km climb carries an average gradient of seven per cent, with an array of sweeping hairpin bends towards the top.

It's a good idea to try to get to Sa Calobra early in the morning; wait until later in the day and you may find your descent hampered by coaches carrying tourists.

Getting there usually involves a fair bit of climbing in itself. If you're based in Port de Pollença and Alcudia, the route out and back can come to around 80-100 kilometres, though you might prefer a loop like this.

Climbing out of the coastal towns, you'll begin with the 7.5km Col de Femenia (six per cent) - this is a perfect way to wake the legs up for the longer trials ahead.

Near the top of the Col de Femenia you'll find the Respol petrol station. Pause for a refuel, before beginning the road to Sa Calobra. There's another 5km slog before the long descent to the sea - after which you'll have no choice but to retrace your tracks back up the beast.

Puig Major / Col de Soller loop

Puig Major (climbed from Soller), at 10.6km with an average grade of six per cent, is the longest climb on the island.

On a day that you've got fresh legs, you can combine it with an ascent of the Southern side of the Col de Soller (4.9km at five per cent - which is much more gentle than the Northern side at 7.3km at six per cent), using Soller itself as a perfect pit stop. Just be careful of the tram lines that can play havoc with skinny tyres.

Once you're up and over Puig Major, with its long sections of painfully straight road, you'll be rewarded with stunning views. The descent is a long, extended affair during which you'll see flashes of the Gorg Blau reservoir - a sight that should bring life back to weary legs.

There's a great example loop here to give you some route inspiration.

Cap de Formentor

The ride to Formentor is typically considered to be a 'recovery day' ride, being about 60km from Alcudia and less from Pollença.

However, it's not flat at all - starting with a 3.7km climb (Coll de sa Creueta), followed by a descent and then a gradual rise all the way to the lighthouse at Formentor.

Whilst the ride is by no means easy, the views are absolutely breathtaking, and it's that which makes the lighthouse ride an unmissable experience.

There is a small cafe at the top, but you might be better off rolling your way back and enjoying a more moderately priced coffee by the coast.

There are several long tunnels on the way to the lighthouse, so you will need lights.

Petra flat day out

Whilst the Formentor ride is far from a flat amble, the ride to from Port de Pollença/Alcudia to Petra can be. Indeed we have often used this as a mostly flat day out ideal for more social rides or even skills training days.

The route out to Petra consists of plenty of undulating and flat roads. The place itself is a fairly sleepy town, with a courtyard where you'll find a selection of cafes - including the Bar Restaurante Es Casino which serves particularly good large slabs of cheesecake.

Not far from Petra is Sineu, too - a town which plays host to an outdoor velodrome which is open to the public 24/7. If your legs are feeling fresh, this easy spin of a day makes for a perfect opportunity to test out your form with a flying lap.

If you want to add a little bit of spice en route back, you could try this 110km route - which finishes with with an ascent of Coll de sa Batalla.

The climb up to Lluc from Sineu is a 'tester friendly' shallow climb at about five per cent over 8km, and you'll get to enjoy the descent from Lluc back into Pollença.

Spain has long been the country of choice for cyclists seeking warm weather riding – but up until recently Girona has been one of the lesser-visited areas, with Mallorca snapping up the lion’s share of two wheeled visitors.

All that’s gradually changing as more riders begin to take note of Girona and its charm – with attractions both on and off the bike.

>>> Best cycling holidays

Home to a disproportionate number of pro cyclists for its sub 100k total population, Girona has a lot to give: undulating country lanes, testing climbs, technical descents plus an explosion of varied cuisine and its own unique history, culture and architecture.

>>> Cycling holidays in Spain

The Catalonian university city is intersected by the River Onyar, with the medieval streets of the Old Quarter on one side and more modern buildings on the other.

The maze of narrow cobbled streets in the old town wind up to the city’s cathedral, the remains of a Roman fortress plus the city walls which are an attraction on their own.

It takes less than 15 minutes to escape the confines of the stone city and meet the country lanes, and wide roads combined with relaxed Catalonian culture mean that hassle from drivers is rare. Indeed, during a week of daily riding in the area, Cycling Weekly experienced just one semi-close pass (the kind you’d barely notice in London).

Pro prospective: why go to Girona?

Former pro David Millar has lived in Girona since 2006, and is a major advocate of the city and its culture - so much so his CHPT3 brand will launch a new line in June, simply called 'GIRONA.'

"In the past decade Girona has become the professional cyclist’s home from home, or for many, like me, simply home," Millar says. "Before Girona, pros were scattered across southern Europe, some choosing Tuscany, others the south of France, or for the crazies, Belgium and the Netherlands.

"There’s a reason Girona has become the go-to place, and it begins with five things: one, good training roads i.e varying terrain, quiet, good quality; two, good weather (winter rarely below 0, summer low 30s);  three, airports nearby; four, other professionals to train with, and five, a good quality of life for the whole family.

"The city itself is a hidden treasure, so close to Barcelona yet as far removed as one can imagine," Millar adds. "Everybody who visits here for the first time is taken aback with its beauty and without fail is shocked they had not known about it or visited before.  It doesn’t have a vast array of hotels because it is more of a day visit sort of place, it’s only the recent cycling tourism that has created a new form of visitor.

"With that tourism there is a changing of the café culture, with Christian Meier’s La Fabrica and Espresso Mafia [more on them below] leading the way.  I moved here in 2006 and there were less than 10 professionals living here, legend goes there is over 100 living here now."

When to go and how to get there

Convinced? Time to do some planning.

With a humid subtropical climate, Girona's winters are cold but the summer really heats up. The best times to visit are spring and autumn - max temperatures sit comfortably at 18ºc to 26ºc between April and June, and 26ºc to 21ºc in September and October.

Average rain days are around five to seven a month - so you might get one during a week long visit, but everyone needs a rest day from time to time anyway.

When it comes to airports, you can fly in to Girona’s own airport, a taxi to the city will cost you about €30-35 euros. Alternatively you can fly to Barcelona, which has a transfer time of about 90 minutes - a taxi is around €130-140, or you could hire a car for the week.

When we visited, we opted for a British Airways flight from Gatwick to Barcelona, since BA allows your bike to travel as your hold luggage provided it weighs less than 23kg, then hired a car for the week.

Where to stay in Girona

Though cycle tourism is still in its infancy here (compared to the fame of hotspots like Mallorca, Tenerife and Lanzarote), the area is no stranger to visitors and there’s plenty of hotels and accommodation.

We’d recommend staying in the old town, giving you easy access to endless gastronomical window shopping – plus everything you could ever need (bike shops, pharmacies, ice cream) will be just metres away by foot.

We found a flat via Airbnb, but there’s a huge amount of choice and plenty of hotels - including the Hotel Nord 1901 - which is opposite the Service Course bike shop, ideally situated for those prone to morning bike related traumas.

The only downsides to staying in the old town is that most buildings are long and thin, which means your accommodation could be up several flights of stairs, early nights can be made more difficult by late night revellers, and parking is limited.

We can’t do much about the stairs, but we can recommend you pack ear plugs to solve point two, and there’s unlimited free parking about five minutes walk from the river (just to the side of the Parc de la Devesa).

Services

Cyclists don’t need to worry about provision when it comes to maintenance, hire, kit and nutrition supplies or ride inspiration.

There’s number of bike shops offering maintenance and hire – but the cream of the crop has to be The Service Course, located in the heart of the old town.

Unassuming from the outside, the shop is pretty easy to miss - indeed we walked past twice whilst looking for the entrance. Owned by former pro Christian Meier and his wife Amber, there you’ll find classily sporadic stock on the walls but the limited range offers pretty much everything you could need – just carefully selected.

The Service Course will offer everything from guided rides to daily servicing and lactate testing. And don’t be fooled by the high end price tags of offerings like daily 'pro bike service', you could spend a bomb if you wanted but they also fixed a dodgy headset issue for us for just €5.

Under the same ownership are the La Fabrica breakfast/lunch bistro and Espresso Mafia ‘organised coffee’ bar – each with their own character yet matching refined but practical exterior.

Where to ride

The Catalonian city is located just over 100km to the northeast of Barcelona, nestled in the Costa Brava region, between the coast and sitting beneath the shadow of the Pyrenees mountains.

The geography of the area provides a heady mix of long, flat lanes, ideal for picking up the pace, rolling terrain which really can sap your legs (whilst making them stronger) as well as the testing climbs most of us travel to Europe to conquer.

‘Must ride’ attractions include the Rococorba climb, Els Angels, Mare de Deu del Mont and the coast road.

The Rococorba erupts out of the lakeside town of Banyoles (route inspiration in GPX form here). It’s 10km long, with an average gradient of 7 per cent – though undulations and extended sections at 10 per cent make it feel much tougher than those two stats might suggest.

>>> The Rococorba climb in detail 

It's a road to nowhere - in fact it was only paved in 2006 - and has since become a test track for local pros. In 2009, when former pro and Girona resident David Millar formed a 'club' with Canadian training partner Michael Barry, they called it Velo Club Rococorba.

When we rode it we saw only three other riders, but in the weeks leading up to the Tour de France it's said to get notably busy with riders checking out their pre-Tour form.

UAE Team Emirates rider Dan Martin told Cycling Weekly: “The thing about it for me is that you have to make an effort just to get to the top – it’s not really a climb that you can ride up easily, which you can with most others. If you want to get to the top, because it’s so steep, you have to try on it, but the view is great once you’re up there.”

A little less brutal is the Les Angles climb - nestled between the city and the Costa Brava. It’s a more gentle beast, at 11km long, with an average gradient of four per cent, helped out by a 2km flat section in the middle. At the top is a church, which hosted the marriage of renowned artist and local, Salvador Dali. You could include the climb within the route for the Girona Gran Fondo - GPX files here. 

The Mare de Deu del Mount – at the top of which you’ll find a shrine named ‘Mother of God of the Mountain’ (so it's the ‘Mother of the God’ climb if you feel like making it ominous) – acts as the gateway to the Pyrenees.

At 18.8km long, it’s 18.8km or 21km depending upon which side you climb from. The opening 10km is fairly shallow, but the second half peaks up with gradients of nine and 10 per cent.

The other ride not to be missed is that of the coastal road (GPX file here) which weaves between the protected mountain area of Massis de Les Cadiretes – from Girona you’ll climb up to the coast road, before enjoying smooth descents that then give way to rolling roads before heading back to the city via flat lanes that intercept farmland.

Off the bike

Hopefully all of that riding has hollowed out your legs, because food is one of the major attractions. There are enough places to eat that you could probably find somewhere new to appease you on a daily basis for at least a month.

One not to miss is the Rocambolesc ice cream parlour, where you'll find a range of novelty ice lollies that mostly serve as selfie props as opposed to genuine recovery treats.

For breakfast and lunch, La Fabrica is not to be missed - provided you don't mind your food being sprinkled with edible flowers and your coffee cups sans handles. If it's all a bit fancy, you could just neck a slice of pizza and a cone of patatas bravas from one of the smaller cafes.

The best evening dining experience can be found in the cities' central square, just over the river, but there's plenty more on the side streets. Local Millar details more places to eat and drink in his Chapt3 guide here. 

The city architecture is an attraction in itself, its profile having been bolstered by its filmset role in season six of Game of Thrones. Though post-ride legs might be reluctant, a wonder up to the Cathedral, gardens and a walk along the city wall are not to be missed.

Those with an interest in art would do well to take a trip to the home town of Salvador Dali - Figueres. An amble around Dali Theatre Museum - which as a large pink construction wearing a halo of eggs is rather unmissable - will set you back €14.

Circling to land at the airport, photographer Andy Jones nudged me to look out the window, "look there's Teide".

"Where?" I had to ask him, all I could see were clouds. He pointed out that I was looking too low down, looking higher I spotted the cone of the volcano rising up above the cloud line. My first impression - that is a very long way up.

>>> Best cycling holidays

Sir Bradley Wiggins first visited Tenerife in January 2011 but he was far from the first pro cyclist to use the Parador Hotel at the summit of Mount Teide. He was however unusual in choosing to publicly share his training time there.

Lots of teams and pros - including Team Sky and Chris Froome - have stayed there in the past, but the fact that Lance Armstrong and a number of dopers have used Tenerife for training, and the seclusion afforded by the high-altitude hotel, has given the cynics plenty of fuel to conclude that riders using the hotel have motives beyond finding the perfect training conditions. We are going to put that aside and look purely at the benefits Tenerife can offer, for any cyclist.

Why make Tenerife your next cycling destination?

Tenerife is the largest of the Canary Islands, 200 miles off the west coast of Africa. It is a four-hour flight from the UK but conveniently within the same time zone.

Triangular in shape, it is dominated by the volcano positioned right in the middle of it. The very top of Mount Teide is 3,718m, making it the highest mountain in a Spanish territory but the road, the part we were interested in, only goes to a little over 2,300m.

The climate in Tenerife makes it the perfect winter training camp destination. The south side is in the rain shadow of Mount Teide and is dry and barren, but the north is more lush and green. This makes for varied riding even on a relatively small island. The road circumference of Tenerife is just 223 miles.

Unlike the Balearics, another popular winter cycling destination, the weather is much more stable and predictable. Even in December when we visited temperatures can reach as high as 26°C in the day and they remain a comfortable 10-15°C at night. Having had snow in Mallorca in February and March, I'd much prefer to go to Tenerife to get a cyclist's tan.

Altitude training on Mount Teide

Beyond the pleasant climate, the relatively cheap flights and a wealth of accommodation, there is one very significant reason why Tenerife is a great winter cycling destination: Mount Teide itself. Although not the highest road in Europe, it is the longest continuous ascent as you have the opportunity to start the climb from sea level.

In just 35km you can ride from zero to 2,100m and it really is continuous, not a flat section or banked hairpin alleviates the strain on your legs. For the dedicated pro rider looking to accumulate as much climbing as possible it is perfect. You can cover as much as 4,000m a day in a relatively short distance. The other benefit is the location of the Hotel Parador on the plateau at the top of Mount Teide; this means that Tenerife meets the ‘sleep high, train low' criteria.

Altitude training as a way of increasing your red blood cell count and improving your capacity to process oxygen is well documented. Cyclists and other endurance athletes have been going to altitude for performance benefits since the early 1990s.

Some riders struggle to make high-intensity efforts at altitude, an obvious problem if you are riding the cols of Europe in events such as the Etape, the Marmotte or indeed the Tour de France, so a period of altitude training will help them to acclimatise as well as offering training benefits.

With nearly all roads leading to the top of Teide it is easy to do your training rides on either the lower slopes or the upper slopes. At the lower altitudes you are able to train more intensely because of the oxygen available, with the added benefit that you are doing your body less damage so will be able to recover more quickly. Even without going over 1,500m you could still easily accumulate 2,000-3,000m simply by ascending repeatedly to the mid-point of the climb.

Tenerife is a fantastic winter destination. The weather is warm and stable and the roads away from the coast are quiet and well made. However, the climbing could be a problem for some. Before training on Tenerife you need to have developed a reasonable level of base fitness to get the most benefit from the long climbs and riding at altitude.

If you hate climbing and have a low level of fitness you may find the day after day relentless climbing too much for your body or your psyche. However, the gradients are easier than many mainland European climbs and certainly less steep than a lot of UK hills, so while the climbing is more continuous it is a question of endurance as much, if not more so, than strength.

Climbing Mount Teide

To get a true feel for how tough Teide really is we planned a continuous ascent from sea level to the summit at 2,100m and then on to the plateau for a coffee at The Parador.

Our guides for the day, Jen and Stu Caldicott from Polka Dot Cycling Holidays, were there to give us the pro treatment with support vehicle and navigational assistance - not that you need much, the only way is up.

Starting on the coast at El Medano we rode as a group out of town with Jen calling directions from the rear and Cycling Weekly's Symon Lewis setting a slightly too hot pace on the front as the road immediately began climbing upwards.

Heading toward San Isidro we faced the first major challenge of the day, the bridge over the motorway. There was an audible groan from everyone as we fumbled for top sprockets and got out of the saddle, it struck me as rather worrying that I was already on the limit of both my heart rate and gears less than 5km from the start with at least another 30km of climbing still to go.

By the time we had exited the town of San Isidro the group had split, I was perfectly content to chat with our guide and host about the riding on Tenerife, while the rest of the group seemed more intent on pushing the pace. With only three turns to navigate, a support vehicle, and an obvious regrouping point at the summit, it made sense to split up. The only way to tackle a long climb is at your own pace.

The climb of Teide from the south side can be split into two distinct parts; the lower part up to Vilaflor and the more barren section leading to the top. Vilaflor is the highest village on Tenerife at 1,500m and can be reached by three different roads. For riders wanting to accumulate lots of climbing without the strain of going to altitude this is an obvious destination and conveniently there is a coffee shop and garage here for mid-ride refuelling.

The road to Vilaflor winds gradually upwards and offers plenty of visual interest and relatively gentle gradients with only the occasional kick up to eight or nine per cent. At the time we were there it was surprisingly lush and green from recent rainfall but generally it's dry and arid. Prickly pears and cacti line the roadside and much of the surrounding land is terraced with vines. Tenerife has several vineyards but while the wine is popular with the locals, barely any gets exported so try it while you are there.

We stopped just past the petrol station in Vilaflor to refill bottles and regroup. While there we saw the Neon-Velo training camp pulling into the cafe with riders from Rapha, Wheelbase and Raleigh. Luckily for us they were using the roads up to Vilaflor but not beyond so we wouldn't have to suffer the ignominy of seeing them zoom past us.

After Vilaflor the character of the climb starts to change. There is less evidence of farming and the cacti give way to pine forests. The smell of pine trees and the orangey hues of the rocks makes this section reminiscent of Mediterranean climbs.

While the road still twists and turns the gradient becomes a bit stiffer in places and by the time you reach the edge of the tree line and are into the rockier, more barren section you are pretty much resigned to using just the top sprocket of your cassette.

The final 5km has some of the steepest sections of the climb and you certainly become aware of the 30km already in your legs. Unlike many of the cols in the Alps and Pyrenees, there are no cambered hairpin bends to alleviate the strain on your legs, if only momentarily, and there is certainly no flat section. It's a perfect climb for making you maintain a consistent workload and focus you on your pedalling technique, as you cannot lift off the gas for a moment if you mean to continue forwards and upwards.

By the time I reached the summit everyone else had already crashed out on the picnic blanket thoughtfully provided by Stu and Jen. The view from the top is quite spectacular - on a clear day you can see deep into the valley below but often you are presented with a view of the cloud that seems to hover between 1,200m and 1,500m a lot of the time.

Watching the sun go down on this cloud inversion provided one of the most memorable and stunning moments of the trip.

Between the summit of the climb and the Parador there is a 4km descent and then a long plateau before climbing slightly back up. This section is where Teide gets its description as being a ‘moonscape' from. Barely any vegetation covers the loose surface and you can clearly see the lava flow and misshapen lumps of molten rock from volcanic eruptions.

Unlike most climbs Teide can be warmer at the top than on the lower slopes where often the cloud can hang around even in the middle of the day. Certainly the day we rode it we noticed a significant temperature change when we reached the plateau. It is worth carrying several layers with you, as you can never be entirely sure what you will encounter.

Having taken the best part of three hours to reach the summit I was looking forward to the descent, however first we had to climb the 4km back up from the plateau. While the coffee is really good at the Parador I wouldn't recommend stopping for too long and if you are feeling a bit tired turn around at the summit rather than dropping down the other side as that extra 4km felt a struggle.

The descent is fantastic; retracing our steps the way we came up it is flowing without being overly technical or tight. You can often see below you so have a clear idea of what is coming up next and whether there is any traffic.

Drivers on Teide are particularly considerate, every time I flew up to one I was spotted in the rear view mirror and the driver indicated and pulled over.

The only thing you have to be really careful of is the cloud. We hit it at around 1,800m and for a few moments we were treated to an unusual combination of light shafts being diffused through the mist creating beautiful yet eerie scenery in the pine forests.

However it was short-lived and soon we were into dense fog where it was hard to see more than 15 metres ahead. The temperature dropped considerably and I was aware of the droplets of water covering my bars and top tube.

It was like the worst kind of wet winter morning. By just below Vilaflor the cloud had disappeared again and we were back into warm sunshine. Looking back and upwards toward the volcano we could see the ring of cloud circling Mount Teide and the summit rising up into the blue sky above.

Tenerife and Teide are unique in many ways - in a four-hour ride of just under 80km we had ascended and descended 2,100m and experienced several different types of scenery and terrain. If you are fit and want to get seriously fit this is definitely the place to come to.

Bang Teide - What the riders thought...

Jack Pullar - former National hill-climb champion

The climbs out here are much longer than any I raced on during my hill-climb campaign. It takes a lot more endurance to get up these ones.

There are no really steep climbs here, making Teide possible for everyone. Tenerife is a great location to ride because of the weather and mountains.

Being able to climb to over 2,000 metres in December is rare in Europe, but we have been.

The roads are nice and the drivers friendly. We have been lucky to have support from Neon Velo which has taken the adventure out of our training - without their car following we would have to carry a lot of clothing for the long descents.

Rich Lang - Aussie-born Team Raleigh pro rider

This is my first time on the island of Tenerife and it is definitely a great place to get away from the UK winter weather.

There is pretty much no flat on the island which can be tough mentally when you are tired. Very few of the climbs are steep so if you come here with the right gearing, then you can tap away at them at a pace which is comfortable for you.

We have been riding from four to seven hours each day, with the longer days seeing us go over the top of Mount Teide.

To climb for 50 kilometres is not easy, but by pacing yourself it is possible!

Mike Cuming
Tenerife is a great riding location and I can understand why Team Sky has used it so much. It is around 50 kilometres up to the highest point on Teide, 50 kilometres of climbing.

When you are tired this is mentally very tough, but at five-seven per cent average gradient, it is a climb which you can get into a rhythm and work at a specific level.

We have climbed Teide on our longest days, six plus hours, which has really pushed us. With it being the winter we are concentrating on endurance, so the long climb is perfect for this. I would recommend anyone to come out here because the landscapes are so varied that they keep you motivated to carry on up the mountain.

Symon Lewis - CW's man on the spot

My first impressions of the island were good. It's definitely a great destination to get some warm weather riding in during the winter months and you can certainly see why the pros use it. If it's hard riding you're after, you have endless choices with various tough routes, all linking up to the top of Mount Teide.Steadier climbs or easier days are also possible.

Though you are spoiled by the vast amount of climbing and descending, unfortunately, you won't find any flat rides on the island. So for that day you just want to spin to the cafe or a quick two-hour blast, you can't really do that, which is a shame.

I think Tenerife can be a great place to ride your bike, but only for specific reasons, to get away from the winter gloom and to get some good, solid training in. If that's not what you're after you may find some of the other Canary Islands or Spanish destinations tick more boxes for you. In the hot summer months, Mallorca is a better option, is closer to home and has all the usual variations bike riders look for.

Polka Dot Cycling

Polka Dot Cycling Holidays is run by owners Stu and Jen Caldicott. They are both experienced riders and former road racers who now specialise in running mountain holidays for cyclists. Based in France for the summer season, they decamp and follow the sun to Tenerife for warm weather winter training.

During February, March and April they run structured training camps that will help you get the most out of your time in Tenerife. Their mix of routes will work on your fitness, technique and bike handling. Thanks to their vast amount of experience of running and taking part in camps Jen and Stu will ensure you pace your week so you go home fitter rather than absolutely shattered, which is so often the case with unstructured camps.

All rides are fully supported so there is water, energy products and even a cup of coffee on hand whenever you need it. With the huge changes of altitude and temperature that you can experience on Tenerife its important to have plenty of spare layers to hand and a following van comes into its own here.

Most of their trips are based from La Caleta on the west coast but there is a ‘sleep at altitude' week at the Parador running from the April 20-27 with places still available.

For further information, prices and booking visit www.polkadotcycling.com.

According to the ultimate authority that is Wikipedia, the Earth's surface area is over 510 million kilometres squared - 148 million of which is land.

Spain encompasses just over 505 thousand kilometres squared - do the maths and it turns out it's just 0.3 per cent of the total land available. And yet, UK cyclists flock to mainland Spain and its surrounding islands on an annual basis.

>>> Best cycling holidays 

The reasons are pretty simple - the UK's peak riding season kicks off in spring, and that's the time of year that temperatures in Spain are pretty much perfect for cycling. Even those not training for summer events are sick of the rain and wind by February so Spain is the perfect getaway.

Add in that you can fly there in around two hours, plus the fact that Spain houses some of Europe's greatest climbs, and you've got yourself an ideal location for spring training camps.

Despite being such a tiny percentage of the overall Earth, Spain is still pretty big. That mean's there's plenty of choice as to where to ride.

An alternative... 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-g_1bB3lciE

Here's a look at some of the top locations...

The best locations for cycling in Spain

Denia and Calpe

Go for: enjoying a cycling holiday and the traditional sandy beaches holidayers love

Read more: Cycling in Denia and Calpe

Kicking things off in mainland Spain, Denia and Calpe take their home on the Mediterranean coast. Both towns are nestled on the Costa Blanca stretch in Alicante and just 35km of land separates the two, so it's really not a big deal which one you choose to stay in.

This area is absolutely no stranger to pro training camps - Team Sunweb, BMC Racing, Astana and Quick-Step have all been known to bring their riders out to this area for pre-season mile munching.

Some of the key climbs have featured in the Vuelta a España - such as the Cumbre del Sol, which although less than 4km long has an average gradient of 10 per cent and was made famous when Tom Dumoulin beat Chris Froome to the summit in 2015.

>>> 10 ways to improve your climbing

Flying to Alicante airport takes around 2.5 hours and spring temperatures are warm - with highs of 20-23 degrees Celsius. Rain days vary from four to 11 a month across the year – bear in mind that's days it rains a month and that could only be for an hour at a time.

The area isn't only popular with cyclists - the sandy beaches bring tourists from all over the world, including the UK. From the top of some climbs you'll be able to make out the mega tourist trap of Benidorm, its built up sprawl and skyscrapers - but the area's typical visitors are more drawn to peak summer months.

Girona

Go for: vibrant nightlife and a busy cycling community as well as great riding

Read more: Cycling in Girona

Our second mainland location, Girona has become a bit of a 'must visit' in recent years. The Catalonian city houses a disproportionate number of pro cyclists, with many making their home within its walls due to the ideal terrain, cycling friendly weather and the community on offer there.

It's almost impossible not to come across pro riders logging their miles when riding in Girona. If you really fancy you can drop some cash on having a pro guide you round the area via the Service Course who offer everything from bike hire to guided rides and photography.

The city itself is vibrant, with plenty of bars and cafes. However, the population sits at 98k - which means the area is quiet enough that you can easily base yourself in the centre, without having to worry about the first few miles spent riding out of the city each day being a rat-race.

The climbs are not as long as those you might find in the cycling mecca that is Mallorca - but there's plenty to make your legs hurt - famous ascents include the 10km Rocacorba, 11km Els Angels and 10km Sant Hilari.

>>> The best bike bags and boxes for air travel

Maximum temperatures vary from 14 to 23 degrees Celsius between November and May, and there's between nine and 13 rain days a month - that's a tad cooler and wetter than the popular choice of Majorca but still plenty good enough for riding.

You can choose to fly to Girona airport, or go to Barcelona and follow it up with a 60-90 minute transfer by road.

Tenerife

Go for: year round ideal cycling temperatures and altitude training

Read more: Cycling in Teneriefe (and - closely related, Cycling in Gran Canaria)

Tenerife is sometimes called ‘Isla de la Eterna Primavera’ – the island of the eternal spring - which pretty much sets the scene for its climate. Max temperatures sit at 20 to 23 degrees Celcius from November to May, and there's between one and six rain days on average a month making it the driest of the locations listed.

The epicentre of the island is the Mount Teide volcano. If you choose to climb it, you're taking on the longest continuous ascent in Europe - it's 35km long and covers 2,100 metres of elevation.

Watch: How to climb Mount Teide

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jMjvvVIdYnk

Riders can expect to suffer with the altitude at the top, but there are plenty of lower roads to choose from. Fear not, with a road circumference of 223 getting lost would be quite a feat.

At the top of the Mount Teide climb, you'll find the Parador Hotel, which has in the past been a popular place for pro cyclists to stay if they want to sleep at altitude. However, since it was a known favourite of Lance Armstrong, few riders (except Bradley Wiggins who stayed there in 2011) have been that open about taking up home there.

Flights take a bit longer compared to other Spanish locations, at about four hours to either Tenerife North or South airport.

Mallorca

Go for: The cyclists mecca, with all the facilities you could need and varied terrain

Read more: Cycling in Mallorca

No list of Spanish cycling locations would be complete without a sizeable mention for Mallorca.

The largest of the Balearic Islands, the road circumference is 312km long - and within the centre you'll find iconic climbs ranging between 10 and 20km - including Sa Calobra, Puig Major and Coll de Soller.

There are rolling and flat lands too, particularly around the coast - though the most popular recovery ride covers about 80km (40km there and back) and gradually climbs from Port de Pollenca to Cap Formentor.

>>> Cycling and cramp: how to avoid it

You could stay anywhere and find yourself spoilt for choice when it comes to riding, but popular locations include Port de Pollença and Alcudia.

Thousands of cyclists flock to this island in spring, which means it's incredibly well set up for riders - there are plenty of bike shops, tour companies and hire facilities.

Flights take about 2.5 hours to Palma, and Port de Pollença is about 60km or one hour drive away. Between February and April, max temperatures sit at about 16 and 20 degrees Celcius and average rain days vary from one to seven a month all year.

The Pyrenees

Got for: the opportunity to enjoy variety and nip into France - enjoying its iconic Tour de France climbs - as and when you fancy

The Pyrenees mountain range covers 430km, and it stretches over both Spain and France. The French side houses many of the most famous climbs, but Spain has plenty to give - and a fair few climbs span the France/Spain border. You can see a really useful map of all the major climbs here.

Being as it is nestled in the mountains, the area is generally cooler than the rest of Spain, with max temperatures rarely shooting over 25 degrees Celsius even in the mid summer months of July and August. As a result, this is an optimum location if your looking for a get-away later in the year.

You can fly to the French airports of Toulouse or Lourdes - both take about two hours, then drive across the border.

CW has tested out making a roadtrip of the whole thing, taking the Eurotunnel to Calais and driving the 800 odd miles to the Pyrenees - it's great fun if you want to explore the towns and cities along the way, but not a good option if you want to keep your travelling time to a minimum!

While lots of cyclists head off to Mallorca and the Costa Blanca for their winter miles, before jetting off to the Alps and Pyrenées for their summer smiles, too many forget about Nice and Côte d'Azur, which are not only home to large numbers of professional riders, but offer a great cycling holiday for us amateurs too.

>>> Watch Ollie's weekly vlog exclusively on the Cycling Weekly YouTube channel

If you need any convincing, then we've put together nine reasons why you should consider the south of France for your next cycling holiday, and that's before we get on to talking about the weather...

>>> Best cycling holidays 

1. It's dead easy to get to

Assuming that you're travelling from the UK, the Nice is incredibly easy to travel to. There are year-round flights from Gatwick, Heathrow, Liverpool, London City, Luton, Manchester and Stansted, and seasonal flights from Belfast, Bristol, Edinburgh, Leeds/Bradford, and Newcastle, meaning that wherever you live, you shouldn't have to travel too far to the airport.

>>> What do different airlines charge to fly your bike around the world?

What's more, once you land in Nice, the airport is very close to the town centre, meaning that you can simply jump in a taxi for 15 minutes along the picturesque Promenade des Anglais to get to your accommodation.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zb6iqX5oeF0

2. The food is great

Of course no visit to Nice would complete without a salad niçoise, which will provide a great, nutritious meal with its mixture of leaves, vegetables, tuna, anchovies, olives, and eggs.

>>> 11 things guaranteed to happen on every cycling holiday

However if you're famished after a long ride, or need to do a bit of "carb loading", then there no shortage of other options available, from the bigger restaurants around the sides of the cities famous flower market, to the smaller establishments tucked away in the maze of streets in the old town, which should cater for all tastes and appetites.

3. Famous roads are just around the corner

The Tour de France might be a rare visitor to the climbs around Nice, but that doesn't mean you can't notch up a few famous cols. Chief among them is the Col d'Èze, traditionally the final climb in Paris-Nice, which starts from just beyond the port and climbs out of town towards the beautiful hilltop village of Èze, rewarding you with stunning views of the Côte d'Azur as you ascend.

>>> Col de la Madone: Tour contenders' favourite testing ground

Head further along the coast towards Menton and you'll come to the Col de la Madone, a favourite training climb of pros past and present. If you fancy a test then you can try and beat Richie Porte's record of 29-40 for the 13km climb, although most decent amateurs can hope to get under 45 minutes.

4. The riding is simply incredible

While the first few kilometres out of your accommodation might be a bit busy, head a little way inland and the roads become almost deserted, generally combined with perfect road surfaces and spectacular scenery in what is an ideal playground for cyclists.

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If you're after a challenge then head out of Nice and up the Col de Turini for a really tough climb that will give a loop of around 100km if you take a direct route, or the Col de Braus if you want a slightly shorter option. And the best thing of all is that you know that the end of your ride will be either downhill or along the coast, giving a nice and easy end to the day.

5. You might see a few pros

If someone did a study of the population density of professional cyclists, then the Côte d'Azur (alongside Girona in Spain) would probably come out on top, with plenty of professional riders choosing to base themselves in the area for the great riding, year-round sunshine, and, perhaps for a few, the low tax rates on offer a few miles down the road in Monaco.

>>> Luke Rowe column: Why do so many pro cyclists live on the Côte d'Azur?

With Team Sky even having a team house a little further along the coast towards Monaco, this is probably the only place in the world where if you see a rider decked out head to toe in full team kit, they probably are a professional rider, so don't be surprised if the likes of Chris Froome, Lizzie Deignan, or Philippe Gilbert come flying past.

6. There are bike rental options

If you don't fancy putting your bike in the hands of airport baggage handlers, or just want to do a day or two of riding as part of a longer holiday, then the city also offers plenty of places for you to rent a bike for anything between a few hours up to a fortnight at a time.

>>> Should you hire a bike or take your own when you go abroad?

For those who can't do without a high-end machine, or just want to treat themselves, then Café du Cycliste will offer you a beautiful carbon-fibre, steel, or titanium bike equipped with top-of-the-components, but there are plenty of other bike rental shops to choose from if you can't afford to pay €70 per day.

7. Coffee stops aplenty

The great thing about cycling in this area is that you can be sure that almost every village you ride through will have some tiny cafe complete with three old men outside shooting the breeze that will be more than happy to serve some sweaty cyclists a coffee and a sandwich to see them home.

What's more, because most of the passes in the area aren't at high altitude, the bigger ones (such as the Col de Turini) have hotels or cafes at the summit, meaning that your caffeinated reward can come at the top of a hard climb, with the toughest part of your ride out of the way.

8. Lots of accommodation to choose from

While most other cycling destinations are either holiday resort areas or small towns, Nice is unique in being a thriving and bustling city, meaning a wide range of accommodation options to choose from.

>>> Where in the world is the best place to go for a bike ride?

If you're after a hotel in the area, then the majority should offer facilities to keep your bike safe, but an increasingly popular option is to go for self-catering apartments, often through Airbnb. The only thing to be careful of is to make sure that you don't end up with a fifth floor flat that can only be accessed by a narrow staircase - something you don't want to have to deal with while carrying a bike at the end of a long ride.

9. There are things to do that don't involve cycling

Another benefit of being a decent-sized city, is that there are plenty of options for non-cycling activities in Nice, whether that be for you on the afternoon after your ride, or for your long-suffering family to whittle away the hours while you get in the miles.

For spectacular views, the climb up to the top of the Mont du Chateau overlooking the old town on one side and the port on the other is a must-do (although there's also a free elevator if your legs are cooked from a long ride), while for a bit more culture you can visit the Musée National Marc Chagall a little out of the city centre, or the incredible Cathedrale Sainte-Reparate in the heart of the old town.

In early June this year I was sitting at my computer quietly going about my own business, when I was fortuitous enough (I think… I’m still a little confused actually) to receive an email inviting me along to ride the Maratona dles Dolomites.

Clicking the provided link, a collage of amazing visuals now festooned my monitor; yes, of course I’d heard of the Dolomites before and had admired them from afar courtesy of fragmented Giro d’Italia coverage — but this was the first time I’d really looked at the region.

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It’s amazing how selective one’s senses can be; whilst once this was just another mountain range, it now quickly morphed into, quite possibly, the most delightful place on the face of the planet - perhaps even more so than the Wetherspoons in Ilfracombe, and that takes some serious doing.

Yes. A thousand times, yes. My reply to the mail was not an ambiguous one, and before long tickets had been booked, hotel rooms had been reserved and a place on the long 138km route of this, one of Europe’s, nay, the world’s foremost Gran Fondos, had been secured.

Of course, completing the longest course was by no means an obligatory part of the trip; you even had the option, “...and please let us know which route you’d like to ride” came the email sign off.

Three distance options were available, starting from the short Sella Ronda at 55km with a not insignificant 1,780m of ascent; followed by the Medio, specced at 106km with a hefty 3,130m of climbing; and finally the longest, simply known as The Maratona — at 138km in length with a ridiculous 4,230m of climbing woven perversely into the parcours, this was far too beastly to be awarded a playful sobriquet.

However, I did the mathematics, and quickly concluded that the long Maratona route would be a walk in the park. 138km? That’s barely 80 miles.

I did that for fun last Saturday. Although it was in Hampshire. And was punctuated with about 15 Cornish Pasty and caffè latte stops. And had it been any flatter I probably wouldn’t have had to use my pedals. But let’s not get bogged down in the details here.

Even upon a mandatory trip to my GP (“without a medical certificate you will not be allowed to ride”) who had the unenviable task of deciding whether or not I would retain the status of being alive after the event, my confidence could and would not be curtailed, even if she did do a disconcerting amount of umming and ahhing during the consultation.

I’d do one training ride — as well as continuing my daily commute - and be done with it. I customised this preparatory outing in order to best replicate the Maratona course in the English Home Counties; Box Hill in Surrey, as well as being a slope of sorts, also contains at least two real life hairpin bends, and tagging on a traverse of Leith Hill as well as labouring up the spitefully precipitous Barhatch Lane, I surmised that my legs had been sufficiently primed, and hey, I might even get a podium place here; I mean, surely no one could be as fit as me.

The day of the trip dawned bright and balmy in the UK so I jammed an assortment of sunny cycling attire into a sports holdall and made haste to Stanstead Airport where I acquainted myself with the Italian alcoholic beverage industry, whetting my whistle with a foursome of pre-flight Peronis and half a Moretti for luck.

Alighting at Treviso airport, a few clicks up the road from Venice, I basked in the north Italian heat for a few all-too-brief moments before we (there were other journalists present) were bundled in a car and driven in the direction of the mountains.

Popping ears soon became flavour of the day as we rose and rose, and, before long, found ourselves ensconced intermittently in thick cloud many hundred of metres above sea level.

Watch: How to ride long climbs

The views, as expected, were magical. The jagged, snow-capped peaks, so emblematic of the Dolomites, now enveloped us, and we drove — a little motorised spec, negotiating a humble path through this truly incredible terrain.

Arriving at our hotel my first sensation upon stepping from the vehicle was how absolutely and totally freezing it was. There I was in shorts and a t-shirt while others clumped around the place in skiing clobber. I was an idiot. A cold, semi-drunk idiot.

Four AM the following morning and the alarm goes off.

I open the balcony door and quickly shut it. It is bitter out there.

Rifling through my sports holdall, the warmest item of attire I manage to unearth is a gilet. I have no arm-warmers, no gloves, no skull-cap, no brain? I’m an idiot.

A cold, semi-hungover idiot. Convening in the breakfast hall with my acquaintances and a heavy smattering of other riders, we exchange stories of restless slumbers and thermostat tweaking before riding down to the start line from the hotel, which is based halfway up — or rather halfway down — one of the climbs we will be descending, the Passo Gardena.

The start line is bristling with riders — 9,000 of them to put an exact figure on it.

And although smiling for selfies and group photos is taking place en masse, an earnest aura radiates amid the chill of this early July morning.

These people know what’s ahead. For many, this will be their first time riding the Maratona, for others, an opportunity to better their time from previous years.

We are a diverse peloton of many different ages and many different nationalities - but, yes, we have one thing in common; a day of prolonged pain and suffering awaits us all.

But some of us would be suffering less than others. Some of us had Box Hill in our legs.

I don’t know if you’ve ever looked at the profile of the Maratona dles Dolomites course before, but to find any flat in it would require an extremely powerful microscope. It is literally all ups and downs.

So when pulling out of the starting pen to be immediately greeted by the slopes of the Passo Campolongo, the route’s ‘easiest’ climb, the grinding, it appeared, was to commence from the outset.

Other than the fleeting and, quite frankly, terrifying descents, this was more or less constant and unrelenting exertion.

I thought back to my trip to the GP and her incessant clucks of concern as I toiled up the Passo Pordoi. A climb regularly used in the Giro d’Italia, the Pordoi, although boasting views of ethereal proportions, managed to sap a huge amount of happy from my heart, and by the time I’d reached the summit of this 9.2km beast of a climb, I finally mused that I may, just may, have come here under-prepared. I was an idiot. A cold, tired, desperately under-trained idiot.

I weighed up my options, teeth chatting beyond control as I descended the Pordoi. Would I still be able to manage the full 138km course? Yes, but I would probably meet God en route.

How about just completing the 55km Sella Ronda? Hmm, seems a bit of a cop out to come all this way and ride 30 miles — albeit a very, very difficult and iconic 30 miles.

What about the Medio then? At this juncture, that probably sounds like the best course of action. I congratulated myself on still being able to muster lucid thought, and continued up an over the Passo Sella, (5.5km, 7.9%) followed by the Passo Gardena, (5.8km, 4.3%), then through the starting/finishing village of Corvara, and up and over the over the Passo Campolongo (5.8km, 6.1%) again.

Approaching the point where one was bound to choose between the Medio and Maratona route distances, I decided to have a stern word with myself.

This is a once in a lifetime experience, I told myself. This is the kind of ride that really separates the men from the boys; this is one for the grandchildren, the time you took the on Italian Dolomites and ground, ground, ground them in submission. You must bring this ride to the conclusion it deserves; riding the Medio route would serve it no justice at all…

Yet, it appeared that, while bearing left and therefore eschewing the slopes of the legendary Passo Giau (9.9km, 9.3%), I decided to ignore my own advice and subconsciously made the decision to complete the Medio route.

And toiling up the tarmac of the Passo Falzarego (11.8km, 6.7%), just about turning the lowest gear throughout the entire 12kms, wincing with pain as I rode, I’m pretty certain that this was the correct choice.

The mountains are a wonderful place to turn a wheel. But events like this require respect, and I came home with an enormous amount for the Italian Dolomites, as well as the beginnings of a robust sniffle and a shattered pair of thighs.

I was an idiot. But a slightly wiser one than I had been a few days ago.

Cycling, eh. It’s just one big learning curve.

But on the plus side…

We were fortunate enough to eat a meal at the Boe Alpine Lounge which is mainly accessible by cable car (and a rough steep gravel track) and affords diners incredible far-reaching views of the Dolomites.

Post-Maratona dinner was partaken of at Ciasa Salares, a michelin-starred restaurant deep in the heart of the Dolomites.

The chef prepared an exquisite six course meal which was partaken of in the wine cellar. Perhaps the restaurant’s piece de resistance though was a chocolate room which Willy Wonka himself would’ve been proud of. We are literally talking cascading chocolate fountains here!

Little over 20 years ago, the only people who knew about the messy tangle of tarmac and dirt road up to the summit of Puigsou were radio mast engineers and members of the Club Icarus Girona hang-gliding club - and a few local mountain bikers.

The mountain of Puigsou lies 20 kilometres north of Girona and reaches 994 metres above sea-level; hardly a monster when, on a clear day, you can see the Pyrenees, a mere 80 kilometres further north. And, on a little hill near the summit lies the 12th-century Santuari de Rocacorba, which gives its name to the climb.

However, in the past half-dozen years, the fame and name of Rocacorba has spread far beyond a few religious tourists and bands of gravity-defying sportsmen who, in 1989, drove up the dirt road sections near the summit and built the first hang-gliding ramp.

The climb stayed as the preserve of extreme sports fans for as long as the final four kilometres of the road was essentially dirt. Local bike guide Dave Welch of Bike Breaks knew about the climb and the spectacular views from the summit.

"It was back in late 2005 or 2006 when I was taking a party of mountain bikers up to Rocacorba, I had been telling them that it was a great slog but worth it at the top," he says. "At the start the climb was tarmac and they were moaning a bit, because they were real mountain biking types and I kept telling them it was OK, the tarmac was going to stop and there would be dirt to climb on.

"Well, we keep climbing and the tarmac never stopped. I felt like such an idiot! Between one ride and the next, the whole climb had been laid with tarmac. I'd been in Girona for three years prior to that and overlapped a little with the period when Lance Armstrong was based there, but he had gone by the time it was paved, so I'm pretty sure the rumours that it was down to Lance that it got paved aren't true."

But after the road was fully tarmacked, from around 2006, the climb turned into an unofficial test track for locally based riders. There's only one way up and down Rocacorba - it's a savage dead end that, from a cycling point of view, only exists to get to the top and back down again, a road to nowhere except, hopefully, to some sense of your fitness (or lack thereof).

In autumn 2009, Girona resident David Millar and sometime Canadian training partner Michael Barry decided to form the Velo Club Rocacorba, though it is clearly more like a social club than a clandestine hand-picked group selected to carry out black ops testing on marginal gains on the tough 13.8km climb.

The fun begins

The precise measure of the climb, as is so often the case, is subject to some debate. There is some ambiguity as to where it actually begins (though there's no debate as to where it ends, since there's now a white line painted on the road marking its limits). By common consent, certainly among the local pros who use the climb as a test of form, the clock starts ticking as you cross the low stone bridge where the road turns left up into the trees. Prior to that point the first 3.8km is draggy false flat and the climb proper - from the moment you cross that bridge - is 10.1km.

From here on, following the Cami de Pujarnal a Rocacorba, things might undulate a little on the lower slopes to give riders some respite (or time to ride in the big ring), but it's a grind to the top that will take you anywhere between just under 30 minutes to just over two hours. To be fair, it'll only take you around 30 minutes of race pace simulation if you are in good enough shape to win a Grand Tour, which is why both Ryder Hesjedal and Bradley Wiggins have tested themselves on the slopes.

There is no shortage of climbs in the Girona area where so many European pro riders base themselves, so what is it about this one in particular that attracts them? The winner of the 2012 Giro d'Italia and long time Girona resident Hesjedal attempts to explain something of the road up to Puigsou's appeal.

"I can't actually remember the first time it was possible to ride it the way it is now," he says. "But it just turned into a climb for the locals - it's hard and it's close enough to Girona, which is important. And although it's not like there's a shortage of climbs, this one is a bit different. There's nothing like this one for the gradient and the length and the rhythm that you have to climb it at - it's perfect. It just naturally turned into the climb to do to find your best time and measure yourself that way."

Pros and cons

Such are the numbers of pro riders based in and around Girona that the fame and utility of Rocacorba has spread. Although there aren't too many ‘cyclo-tourists' zig-zagging up its slopes, it's not unusual for pros to pass each other, one on the way up, the other coming down. The week before the Tour is a particularly busy time for such a narrow piece of road.

Garmin rider Dan Martin had been in Girona for a year and heard much talk of the fabled climb, but he found it by himself, rather than being led there and introduced to its delights.

"I remember finding it and riding up it. And then not riding up it again for over a year because it was just so unpleasant!" he laughs. "The thing about it for me is that you have to make an effort just to get to the top - it's not really a climb that you can ride up easily, which you can with most others. If you want to get to the top, because it's so steep, you have to try on it, but the view is great once you're up there."

And therein lies something of its charm - it's the sort of climb that demands a big effort. "You don't even have to think about it," says Martin. "In fact, one of the good things about it from that point of view is that if I am doing 15-minute climbing intervals I know that the flatter section comes at around the end of one interval and I get a short breather before the next one, another 15 minutes to get to the top."

But why, in this age of GPS-enabled training gizmos - of a team sponsored by a major manufacturer - are there not more professional names and times on Strava, Garmin Connect or mapmyride? Well, it seems that riders can be quite shy of letting the world know where they stand in the pecking order. Which is understandable. Having said that though, Hesjedal currently holds the unofficial record - a high 27-minute effort. Set on Friday June 22, 2012. Yes, that's right, just eight days before the Tour de France. Something of a ritual, as Hesjedal explains.

Test of form

"Well, it's a real in-the-field test you know?" he says. "You can't fake the numbers. If you say, OK, I'm going to go and do an effort on this climb on Friday and you go and do it, the number is the number. I've done the climb on the Friday before the Tour starts for the past few years.

Well this year [2012], coming out of the Giro, I did my fastest time ever by almost a minute, and I wasn't even trying in terms of what you can do - I was carrying my cell phone and a tool pack under my saddle, spare tubes, water bottles, riding it like a race, in full training kit. If you want to get really ‘scientific' about it and say just on the effort I did, if I did it on 100 per cent race set-up then I would have been even faster. At the end of the day the record is the record, I just set out to do the effort up the hill and that's it.

"Those are the gauges that you need, as a professional. Mentally as well as physically, you need to see the confirmation to see that everything is going well. I wasn't that surprised to see that, having just won the Giro and recovering and getting more good training that I set my best time ever on the climb before the start of the Tour."

But for all that Hesjedal took his pre-Tour test ride seriously, he didn't feel the need to go overboard. Had he been tempted to wear a skinsuit and warm up on rollers before blasting up the hill?

"Oh no, no. I just went out riding with David [Millar], Dan [Martin] and Christian [Vande Velde] and I said, ‘Well, it's Friday so I guess I've got to do my Rocacorba effort.' They said, ‘OK, have fun,' and they let me get on with it. To be fair, though, they didn't stop at the cafe in Banyoles; they rode up too, but they let me go."

Hesjedal's insistence that he went to ride as part of a regular road test was, you suspect, an oblique reference to a ride allegedly posted by Bradley Wiggins. It is rumoured that the Team Sky rider arrived in a team car, donned a skinsuit, warmed up on rollers and raced up the climb on a stripped-down bike in a time which, at that point, set a new mark, besting the previous benchmark set by Dan Martin. Nobody doubted that Wiggins had indeed set a new record on the forbidding slopes. What rankled was that, well, if that's what he did, his approach just wasn't cricket, was it?

Club rules

As you may have gathered, there are rules to abide by when it comes to these informal tests. Sort of. While it is perfectly legitimate to decide that on a given day you are going to test yourself (and therefore take it easy as you ride to the climb), what is less acceptable is to go there in a car, carry out a precise warm-up routine on rollers, then race up in a skinsuit with a following car. That is simply not an approach that sits within the constitution of the Velo Club Rocacorba.

The mention of VC Rocacorba in Millar's book Racing Through the Dark and the subsequent publicity generated by reports that Hesjedal and the rest regularly used the climb as a form guide, means that it has become something of a mini-Mecca for riders who come to Girona for a holiday or a more serious training camp. A scan of the riders who have slogged their way to the summit reveals a veritable United Nations of sweat has been spilled on its slopes.

It will never attain the status of an Alpe d'Huez or Tre Cime di Lavaredo, but thanks to a lucky combination of geography, local patronage and technology, Rocacorba has already become much more than a footnote in cycling folklore.