We ask a lot of the best radar bike lights: to accurately warn of approaching traffic, to provide audio and visual prompts, and even to include cameras to capture any erroneous activity. That is all before we even consider how they perform as a bike light.

Unfortunately, due to this complexity, some just aren't up to the job, turning a genuinely useful safety device into an expensive and dangerous gimmick. In my testing of the best rearview radars, I am looking for products that don’t report false positives – warnings of vehicles when there are none – or false negatives – a failure to warn of approaching vehicles. I’ll also assess detection range, detection angle, and accuracy at lower speeds, as well as how they interact with the best bike computers and against the enormous range of best bike lights.

To test the effectiveness of the best rearview radars, I rode a predefined 13km circuit that included a variety of traffic conditions and reflections from buildings and structures that could confuse a bike radar. I also set up a static rig on a long, straight stretch of road, which enabled me to accurately test range and confidently log false positives and negatives.

The winner of this test might not come as a suprise. While it was close, the founding brand of this category recently stepped it up with a new model, and that new model is, without a doubt, the new market leader. The Garmin Varia RearVue 820 might be expensive, but its accuracy is unmatched.

Best Radar Bike Lights 2026:

Best overall radar bike light

The Garmin Varia RearVue 820 has quite the reputation to live up to – its predecessor, the Garmin Varia RTL515, was widely regarded as the gold standard and one of our own best bike lights. The change from Micro-USB has seemingly taken Garmin aeons to implement; however, this has allowed the brand not just to update the plug but to redevelop the product and take a step ahead of the competition.

The flagship Varia now delivers up to 100 lumens in day flash, and battery life is nothing short of phenomenal – I managed an impressive 11 hours 15 minutes in solid mode with radar. The seismic change is the switch from low-resolution 24 GHz radar to significantly more precise 60 GHz waves. In practice, this means it’s more responsive, more accurate, and better at tracking traffic at the same speed.

In the field, the difference is night and day; from an increased range – regularly surpassing 160 metres during my static test, even for smaller cars – to the RearVue 820’s ability to better pick out individual vehicles in a group. Same-speed vehicles are tracked with greater persistence, no longer dropping out at slow-moving roundabouts or at the approach to road junctions.

Less convincing is the classification of vehicles by size. Knowing whether you’re being followed by a bus, a car, or a motorbike is a seductive idea, but in practice, it's not yet reliable.

Nevertheless, the newfound clarity elevates the RearVue 820 to best-in-class status, something I’m willing to pay a premium for.

• Rear my full review of the Garmin Varia RearVue 820

Best Garmin alternative

Since switching to a Wahoo Trackr Radar last June for the majority of my riding, after four happy years with Garmin radar products, I haven’t been disappointed.

In a market awash with unimaginative blocks of plastic, the Trackr has clearly seen the sharp end of a designer’s pencil. Sleek and softly rounded, it’s easily the best-looking radar, as well as being functional. It’s easy to attach to either round or aero seat posts and holds with limpet-like tenacity. Setup is straightforward via Wahoo’s generic smartphone app, and head unit control is slick – I have used the Trackr Radar with both with serveral of the best bike computers, and the near-indistinguishable user experience has been positive.

Out on the road, radar functionality is flawless, with no history of false positives or negatives. With the only blip coming in my static tests, where small vehicles were not detected until around 75 to 95 metres. On the flipside, the Trackr is good at isolating vehicles within a group. Speed-matched vehicles would inevitably disappear but quickly reappear when traffic moves again.

One of the few units here with well-spaced twin LEDs, a useful feature that lets the top LED operate a different pattern from the lower. There are only four lighting modes – but they cover most bases. Output is relatively low at 53 Lumens, but that provides up to 800m of daylight visibility.

It's hard not to like the Trackr; it is one of the best units I have tested. Given how cheap it is compared to the Varia RearVue, you might overlook its slightly narrow field of view.

• Rear my full review of the Wahoo Trackr Radar

Best standalone radar light

The feature-rich Lezyne Radar Drive 300 is among the most versatile I tested. While many require a bike computer to display traffic threats, the Lezyne offers a couple of alternatives. Firstly, a free app or it can be purchased with a 1,200-lumen front LED light – Lezyne’s Radar React System displays traffic alerts on a rear-facing illuminated panel. Even when nothing is connected, the Lezyne will still warn passing traffic by utilising its light function to increase intensity. So, if you have no need for a bike computer, there’s no need to buy one. However, if you already own one, the Radar Drive 300 offers seamless integration with most leading brands.

Lezyne's detection algorithm is excellent, throwing no false positives or negatives during my tests, and the maximum detection range of 150m was routinely exceeded by larger vehicles. Its ability to detect Speed-matched vehicles was in line with those lights with a tighter 35° field of view.

The tail light outputs a whopping 300 lumens in Day Flash mode, which is exceedingly bright for a rear light. Its brutish aesthetic screams ‘see’ and be seen, but it’s slightly let down by a cumbersome mounting arrangement that forgoes any quick-release or quarter-turn mount solution in favour of a basic rubber strap design.

The Radar Drive 300 represents serious competition for Wahoo and Garmin.

• Rear my full review of the Lezyne Radar Drive 300

Best budget radar light

The IGPSport SR Mini breaks the mould, not just in size - being considerably more compact than others - but also in its hoop of 12 LEDs around its outer edge, over the conventional single-centred design used by Garmin and Wahoo.

The SR Mini performed brilliantly in my static range test, consistently picking out small cars at distances of 100 metres or more. This is about a 20-metre improvement over many other units in this test, giving me an extra second of warning. More often than not, it also managed to identify individual cars within tight groups, provided they weren’t completely blocked by a larger vehicle.

Riding out with the SR Mini on my test circuit, I noticed no false negatives, but at least two false positives. The first was a reflection off a stone wall from an oncoming vehicle, and the second was a ghost vehicle that briefly appeared about 50 meters behind me. While not critical, false positives are distracting enough that I'm economical with the SR Mini’s rating.

The iGPSports companion app is a bonus if you don’t own a bike computer, and the mounting interface is quarter-turn, but for some reason, iGPSports only supplies a saddle rail mount. Would it be too much trouble to include a simple seatpost mount?

• Rear my full review of the iGPSports SR Mini

Also tested...

As part of this test, I also tested two other lights: the Magene L508 and the Magicshine SeeMee R300. While they function perfectly well as lights, with both having feature-rich specifications that offer decent value, neither performed particularly well as radar units, regularly throwing false positives and negatives. Thats not to say that you shouldn't buy them at all, by any means; I'd certainly consider others above first, particularly the IGPSport if you're on a budget.

• Magene L508 ★★★☆☆
  The Magene L508 performed well as a light and, in terms of range, detected smaller cars at 80 to 125 metres and larger vans and pickup trucks at up to 140 metres. However, it faltered more than most at picking out individual vehicles from tight groups, particularly when out riding, even when cars were well spaced. The bargain-priced L508 has much more potential than the Magichshine and could compete with the IGPSport if Magene improves its accuracy through firmware updates.
• Magicshine SeeMee R300 ★★★☆☆
  If I were awarding prizes for packaging, the Magicshine SeeMee R300 would top the podium. It’s a highly visible solution, day or night, thanks to its 270° coverage and 300 lumen output. Unfortunately, out on the road, this well-priced radar began to unravel. It was plagued with false positives, and in two particular scenarios in my static test, it was triggered by a vehicle travelling away from me on my circuit; it failed to alert me to a car as I exited a local village, which is a complete no-no.

How I tested the best radar lights

As part of this year's testing, I assessed well over a dozen radar and smart bike lights for use year-round.

Specifically, in my testing of the best radar bike lights, I broke down my data acquisition into two smaller tests. I wanted to provide both a scientific and real-world data log.

For the first test, I set up a static rig along a long, straight section of road. This, first and foremost, allowed me to understand how each light worked, but to accurately test the range and log false positives and negatives with confidence. This was simply measuring out a long 200m section of road and placing my bike in a stand with both a Wahoo and a Garmin Bike computer to hand.

I then verified this data in real-world scenarios by riding a predefined 13km circuit multiple times for each light, across a variety of traffic conditions and at different times of day.

Not to mention, I also tested all of these lights for their general function and features. This included battery capacity, recharge times, mounts, and compatibility with the best bike computers, in which I used both the Garmin Edge 1050 and the Wahoo Elemnt Roam 3.

Meet the expert

Radar lights testing results

How to choose a rearview radar

It's worth noting that radar lights are an additional feature on what is already a complex product: rear bike lights. So, your first port of call when considering which one might be best for you should be to consider what you need from a rear light first, before delving too deeply into radars.

Here is a quick recap on how to choose a rear light, which should help narrow things down:

• Output and Lumens - How bright the light is always plays a big part in your visibility, but there is a trade-off with battery life, and how that light is projected.
• Beam pattern or visibility angle - The output of your light is next to useless if it's not visible from a wide range of angles. Where you mount your light can significantly impact this.
• Orientation and mounting - this can be determined by how the manufacturer arranges the battery cells and where they place the LEDs; it could also be affected by the shape, height, and what sits behind your seatpost, like racks.
• Runtime - the light's orientation and size play a big role in how many cells it has, ultimately determining how long it will last.

So, how do you choose a rearview radar light?

Previously, this was largely driven by compatibility with the best bike computers. If you were running a Garmin unit, you would likely look to the Varia and so on. With more brands coming to the market, there is now a much more urgent need for computer brands to open up either platforms to others. Worth noting that, in the same way, it is opening up the computer market as well, with brands like Magene and IGPSport keen not just to sell you their lights.

In a way, this is good news for consumers, as it places less emphasis on brand compatibility and more on the units' features, such as detection range and the radar's viewing angle. Ultimately, it puts the emphasis on where you ride.

If, like me, you live in a rural area with lots of twisty, tight lanes, you may well want to consider models with greater detection ranges and those that can do this at very wide angles, like the Garmin Varia RearVue 820, so you can nip into a pull-in or layby.

For those who hit the main roads into the city or town, while detection range will certainly be a consideration, you will likely want the unit to be better at picking out vehicle groups and their sizes, as well as the speed at which they are approaching. This is where units like the Wahoo Trackr Radar thrive.

Frequently asked questions about Radar bike lights

Apple explicitly states that: Apple AirTags are designed to help users locate personal items using the Find My network. Apple does not market or support AirTags as a tool for recovering lost or stolen property, and the successful location of an item is not guaranteed.

If you’re a bike thief, please stop reading this article right now. For everyone else, this guide is intended to highlight a variety of products that utilise Apple’s AirTags and the Find My network to track your bike or bicycles.

Being able to track an object can be especially useful while travelling or if your bike becomes separated from you for any reason. Bicycles can be misplaced or separated from their owners in many ways, and AirTags have been a great tool for recovery, like this AirTag that led to a large-scale bike theft recovery in Vail, Colarado last year. The best bike locks, best bike storage, and good habits all help reduce the risk of loss, though none are completely foolproof.

The best GPS bike trackers, such as Apple’s AirTags, are about the size of a large coin and weigh only 11 grams. Due to their size, they can easily be attached to or concealed on a bicycle. Apple designed them to be waterproof to a maximum depth of 1 meter for up to 30 minutes, providing sufficient protection for typical cycling conditions.

I tested 6 products designed to either hide an AirTag on your bicycle or utilise Apple’s Find My tracking network. These products vary in cost, size, and complexity but provide options for people interested in adding tracking to their bicycles. For an additional layer of security, you could consider hiding multiple AirTags on your bike.

Best AirTag bike holders 2026: I tested 6 surreptitious mounts

Best Overall AirTag Holder

Hiplok is a company best known for locks like the DX1000 Matt tested last year, so it’s no surprise that it offers an AirTag-compatible product.

Hiplok’s AirTag mounting bracket can be utilised with a lock mount for a very tidy, integrated system, or alternatively be mounted beneath a water bottle cage or on its own. This versatility is excellent, and the design is fairly tamper-proof with the included security bolts. The AirTag holder portion is secured by two 2 mm hex bolts, which are hidden under the mount. Removing the tracker requires several steps and multiple specific tools, and really, that’s as much as you can ask for in terms of buying time as a theft deterrent.

Mounting the AirTag holder was straightforward—I opted to hide it underneath a bottle cage. Since the entire device is a uniform thickness, it works well with any cage style and is impressively svelte.

Overall its a very well-executed design that holds an AirTag securely and can be used in a variety of applications. It’s lightweight, inexpensive and secure. The only downside is that the Hiplok AirTag holder is easily identifiable as an AirTag holder to someone looking for one.

Best for solution for road bikes

The 4iiii Precision 3+ is one of our best power meters and supports Apple’s Find My network via its software. It doesn’t use an AirTag, but functions in exactly the same way. The device is a small pod permanently attached to the non-drive crank arm. It uses internal strain gauges to measure power output.

My test unit is a Ultegra 8100 non-driveside crank arm with a Precision 3+ Power Meter pre-installed, which was an easy swap, and paired with my best bike computer without trouble. Pairing the power meter with Apple’s Find My app was more challenging, however. This required me to remove and replace the battery three times in order to enter a special Apple-specific mode. Once set up with Find My, it performed flawlessly.

This is clearly very different from all the other devices I tested, which are standalone products intended to hide AirTags. In terms of functionality, 4iiii provides an excellent way to track a bike without drawing attention to itself. Because it is a power meter first and foremost, this is far and away the priciest option here.

Someone looking for a cheap, easy way to track their bicycle may not want to invest in something like this, but for those who are already considering a Power metre or upgrading an older model, it adds an extra level of functionality.

Most Concealed

Muc-Off’s Stealth Tubeless Tag Holder provides an ingenious way to hide an AirTag on a bike. The AirTag compartment is located on the inside stem of a tubeless valve. As a result, it is completely hidden from view, with no external clues. Placing it inside the tyre allows the signal to broadcast without issue; however, the AirTag is in a somewhat vulnerable position. Should you suddenly experience a flat tyre, or even hit a significant bump the wrong way, it could cause the tracker to fail.

Muc-Off’s tubeless valve is one of our best tubeless valves but is fairly standard offering. Also does however, included different rubber gasket shapes to suit a variety of rim shapes and, are available in multiple lengths.

It’s a little tricky to assemble, but once it’s assembled, it shouldn’t need to be disassembled until the AirTag battery runs out. A hard plastic disc separates the AirTag from the valve, and a pink rubber top fits over the entire capsule, sort of like a shower cap. It is a a great concept and I found It worked very well.

There are some limitations to the sneakiness of the system. The holder's size, it will only work on tyres over 38 mm and, It doesn’t work with tyre inserts or bikes with tubes. As well, Muc-Off specifies that the AirTag holder should only be installed on a rear wheel, presumably so that it doesn’t interfere with steering should anything go awry.

Best integration with a light

Concentric Cycling is a small manufaturer that specialises in 3D-printed cycling mounts and accessories to solver all manner of cross-compatabilty, that normally wouldn't be possible.

Rear-facing radars, such as the Garmin Varia RearVue 820, have become more and more popular. One shortfall of many of these systems, however, is the lack of refinement of the stock mounts that come with them, espcially when used with aerodynamically shaped seatposts. Concentric’s design, made of carbon nylon, is sleek and well-executed. It works very well with the Varia radar unit, in my opinion, and houses a special compartment tucked between it and the clamp for your AirTag.

This little drawer hides the AirTag unit, which can pop in and out without tools or removing the mount. This makes it easy to use, but sadly not very secure. I would prefer it if the whole mount needed dissassembling in order to get at the tracker.

Overall its a well-executed mount that can be used with a variety of seatpost shapes and sizes, as well as a number of different lights and radar systems.

Best integration with a bottle cage

The Lezyne Matrix Air Cage is a bottle cage with an integrated AirTag chamber stealthily tucked in the base. The AirTag needs to be installed before mounting the cage, which adds a layer of security, as it would require fully removing the cage to access the tracker.

The cage itself functions exactly as it should, allowing a bottle to be placed into it easily from either side. I had no issues with bottles being lost during testing. The mounting holes allow for some slight adjustment, and special Torx security bolts are included with the tool to fit them. Because the AirTag compartment is placed against the frame, the cage may not fit on all bikes. One of my bikes, for example, has a front derailleur band clamp, which sits between the cage bolts, and unfortunately, the Lezyne cage doesn’t play nicely with that at all.

Lezyne sent a single cage for testing, which was more than adequate for assessing it; for aesthetic reasons, though, I like my cages to match. You could pair it with a standard Lezyne Air Cage, or, for optimal security, use two of these cages with AirTags installed in both and affix them with different types of security bolts. This way, a would-be thief will need more time and tools to remove the trackers.

Overall, the Lezyne Air cage is a functional bottle cage that also houses an AirTag. It’s an easy-to-use product that offers a reasonable amount of security against a tracker being quickly removed. It’s not the most aesthetically appealing bottle cage, likely a little chunky for a higher-end bike.

Hiding in plain sight

Rockbros offers an impressively (actually, incomprehensibly) wide variety of bicycle accessories, including, by my count, seventeen different bicycle bells. This particular bell is unique in its integration of an AirTag-sized compartment tucked between the bell's dome and the handlebar mount. Installing the AirTag is very easy, as it only requires unthreading the bell from the base; however, the flip side is that it is equally easy for someone to remove the AirTag in the same way.

The bell itself has a good tone and functions as it should, though it feels cheap; however, given its cost, I guess this is to be expected.

Instead of producing a single product that fits multiple handlebar sizes, which seems like a more straightforward option, Rockbros instead offers multiple, size-specific products. You can choose a clamp designed for either 22.2 or 31.8 mm bars, but it cannot be swapped between the two. The test bell Rockbros provided was sized for a 22.2 mm bar, which is not compatible with any of my drop-bar bikes. I was able to test it on a cargo e-bike, where it came in handy, alerting pedestrians to my presence.

On the street, most passersby are unlikely to notice the hidden compartment, making it a relatively sneaky way to hide an AirTag.

Also tested...

• Topeak Cage Mount for AirTag ★★★☆☆- While the Topeak and the Hiplok, which I awarded best overall, are very similar, near identical from the outside, Hiplok has managed to make theirs work with a bottle cage, which immediately makes it more usable.
• Knog Scout ★★★★★- The Scout wasn't part of my test, but it is worth mentioning as it utilises the Find My network; however, it boasts additional features such as an alarm, is rechargeable, and is rated as our best overall GPS bike tracker.

How I tested AirTag holders

As with all the products we review here at Cycling Weekly, our primary focus is on a product's functionality. For the best AirTag holders, I considered ease of use, the mount's security, and how well each product disguises its function. I also tested each product and its placement to ensure it didn’t interfere with an AirTag’s signal. This is easily done with the 'Precision Finding' within the Find My app.

For products with additional purposes, I also tested the use of those functions to ensure they performed as expected. This is not an exhaustive list of every product on the market, but it includes many of the most popular options and assesses their functionality.

To test functionality, I used all three tools available to anyone via the Find-My app. First of all, using the 'churp', or sound emitted by AirTags, to see if any of the mounts muffled the sound. Secondly, the Precision Finding tool, heading away from where I left my bike and using the arrow to find its exact location. Finally, the tracking location: I stood still while someone moved my bike around to check for live tracking and updates.

For more information on how we test, visit our comprehensive guide.

Meet the tester

How to choose the right AirTag holder for you

There is no denying that bike thieves are becoming more savvy; the use of angle grinders is a good example. Quick, fast and, as Tech Writer Matt pointed out, when he tested the best angle-grinder resistant locks, they are also often stolen.

Stealth: It's everything when it comes to hiding anything that could allow you to track your bike. Thats why all the mounts that scored well in this guide really offer high levels of secrecy, be that because they are well hidden and offer no clues, like the Muc-Off or if they hide in plain sight, like the RockBros Bell.

Compatibility: The biggest hurdle for many will be compatibility with your bike and the accessories you choose, which can be adapted. For example, if you use bottle cages, mounting the Knog underneath or using the Lezyne cages is an easy swap or upgrade. Again, very similar if you use a bell, or a rear radar light, very easy swaps. It gets more complicated if you aren't running tubeless tyres or a power meter, of course, but relatively easy if you are already.

Accessibility and battery life: Worth considering how easily the AirTag is to replace its battery. While for many, that will be infrequent, roughly every 6-12 months, if you're not handy with tools, the simpler solutions are, of course, those like a light mount or bell. Just remember, these are also easier to locate if your bike is stolen. Largely, they are a set-and-forget unit, with prompts from Apple when the battery is running low. For example, the Muc-Off valve solution, every 6-12 months, is a good time to top up your best tubeless sealant anyway.

Frequently asked questions about Apple AirTags

Something happened at the legendary Leadville mountain bike race in 2024 that could quite well be seen as a watershed moment for gravel racing. While the idea of using the best gravel bike tyres in larger volumes or even mountain bike tyres on drop-bar bikes is nothing new, Leadville 2024 set in motion the widespread adoption of mountain bike tyres for gravel. Which got me thinking... What is the best MTB tyre for gravel?

Traditionally a mountain bike race, Leadville 2024 saw riders like Dylan Johnson, Keegan Swenson, and Payson McElveen all riding either mountain bikes with drop bars, like Swenson's Santa Cruz Highball or running gravel bikes that can already handle larger-volume tyres similar to the Allied Payson rides.

With my personal bike, a Rodeo Labs Trail Donkey, having tyre clearance for up to 2.25 inches in the front and rear, I began my experiment with mountain bike tyres. I had used them on my gravel bike once before, through the Colorado mountains, but the goal then had nothing to do with speed or racing. Instead, it was all about handling and grip as this backcountry classic mixes a lot of pavement with a lot of extra-large chunky gravel.

At that time, the assumption was that tyres like that were only good for the chunky stuff and slower at everything else. Fast forward to September 2025, and there is now tangible evidence that the best tyres for any gravel might be those big, wide mountain bike tyres, even if you want to go fast.

After 12 months of testing, you can read my key takeaways, if you're thinking about running MTB tyres on your gravel bike, like me, in my full feature - along with reviews of six MTB tyres ideal for gravel biking below.

Six MTB tyres ideal for gravel - Ridden & Rated

Vittoria Peyote XC Race

The Ride

As the lastest tyre In this test to be released, Vittoria has brought the very popular Peyote XC tyre to the 2.25 width, and it stormed to the top of my list with a wide range of strengths and very few weaknesses. While the top-three tyres on this test are all close, the Peyote is a true five-star premium option that, quite frankly, Vittoria needed after their previous XL gravel options left a lot to be desired. What sets the Vittoria Peyote apart from the other top tyres is its rare balance of a fast centre tread, quick-rolling rubber, and genuinely effective side knobs. By comparison, the Aspen ST delivers blistering speed down the centre with a strong compound, but lacks side knob bite for loose terrain. The Rekon excels in traction and stays quick over dirt, but can’t quite match the Peyote’s speed on hardpack and pavement.

There are many details worth highlighting about the Peyote—and perhaps I’ll expand on them in a future review—but what stands out most is how confidently it “bites” at the right moment, the ultimate test of a true race tyre. In gravel racing, traction is a knife-edge: too little, and the tyre won’t hook up, sliding unpredictably through corners and forcing either crashes or caution. Too much and oversized knobs increase drag and rolling resistance.

Skilled riders can finesse traction on sub-optimal treads, but great tyres make that balance easier. The Peyote does just that, offering speed-focused shaping while still managing reliable grip in turns. For most riders, it’s the best tool for mastering that fine line of traction. Add sharp looks, confident handling on wet terrain, and hassle-free setup, and the Peyote stands as the gold standard among the tyres tested.

Verdict

Encourages speed, has decent handling over wet terrain, and a very easy setup, the Peyote is the gold standard of the tyres tested.

Schwalbe Rick XC Pro

The Ride

The Schwalbe Rick could easily slot into multiple categories. But this is where personal experience really matters. Riding the tyre here in Arizona has proven, with flying colours, that it’s best suited to the dry, loose terrain of the Sonoran Desert I call home. The Rick feels like Velcro and lightning rolled into one: Velcro in the turns, lightning in straight lines, and a go-to for desert gravel, even when plenty of pavement stands between you and the dirt.

Part of my love for this tyre comes down to my riding style. In Phoenix, most of my gravel bike miles are binary: long road stretches linking together light singletrack and sandy double-track. It’s a delicate balance that no tyre nails perfectly, but some get closer than others. Aerodynamics and rolling resistance obviously matter, but one factor that doesn’t get talked about enough is braking traction. With most semi-slicks—whether gravel-width or MTB-sized—that’s the weak spot.

Light side knobs and careful pressure can create grip in corners, but when it comes to stopping power, there’s no substitute for a proper centre tread. The trick is designing one that both bites and rolls fast. That’s exactly where the Schwalbe Rick sets itself apart: it balances speed with reliable traction across braking, cornering, and loose surfaces.

If the ride includes any technicality at all, the Rick is hands down the tyre I want to be on. Out of all the options I tested, it’s the best at bridging the gap between gravel and mountain biking—while only giving up a little speed on pavement compared to far less capable tyres.

Verdict

If there is any technicality, the Rick is far and away the tyre I want to be riding. Of all the options tested, it is the best at bridging the gap between gravel and mountain biking.

Maxxis Aspen ST

The Ride

The Maxxis Aspen ST is about as close to a slick tyre as you’ll find on this list. It runs a faint file tread down the centre with short side knobs that, at first glance, look like they’d offer minimal traction. My initial impression was that it excelled at straight-line speed and light gravel—but not much else.

After a few weeks of riding, though, I found the Aspen ST to be surprisingly versatile across a wide range of surfaces and moisture conditions. The secret lies in the rubber.

Built with a pure racing construction and high TPI casing, the Aspen ST was never meant for the general market. It was originally designed for Maxxis athletes, given its narrow use case in mountain bike racing. But after consistent success, most notably with riders like Keegan Swenson, who has raced them everywhere from short-track MTB events to Unbound Gravel, Maxxis decided to release it to the public last summer.

As you’d expect from a pro-level tyre, the Aspen ST demands precision in setup. Its optimal pressure window is narrow: too high, and traction vanishes; too low, and it feels unstable in corners and prone to rim strikes. But dial it in just right, and the Aspen ST transforms into a phenomenal all-rounder, capable of handling everything from wet pavement to Unbound’s famous flint gravel.

Verdict

As an offering formulated for pros, the Aspen ST has a very small window of optimal tyre pressure that requires some fine-tuning. Yet, find the right balance and the Aspen ST becomes an incredible all-around tyre.

René Herse Fleecer Ridge

The Ride

In wet terrain, there is no replacing the importance of elevated knobs. Digging into the dirt is necessary, and it is not done through semi-slick centre patches and slimmed-down sidewalls. Predictably, the tyre forged in the Pacific Northwest is well-suited for more moist dirt riding.

I tested René Herse's Fleecer Ridge in the Endurance Casing construction, the third heaviest of the tyre’s options. The tread pattern is the same as all the Rene Herse knobby patterns, with evenly spaced, squared knobs that reduce road buzz, boost rolling resistance, and provide more traction than semi-slicks. The Fleecer Ridge does a commendable job at those objectives; however, on dry mixed terrain, it lacks the other, lower-profile tyres.

When the terrain gets wet, this tyre begins to excel. The tyre is predictable under braking, cornering, and handles low pressure well. Although the knob profile may seem overkill for most gravel riding, it can be a lifesaver on a wet day. Rene Herse is also a great option if you are just under the clearance capacity of a 2.25 tyre. The brand carries the same casing and tread pattern in 48mm with the Oracle Ridge.

Verdict

The Fleecer Ridge is predictable under braking, cornering and handles low pressure well. While the knob profile may seem overkill for most gravel riding, it can be a lifesaver.

Schwalbe Thunder Burt

The Ride

The difference in feel between mountain bike tyres and gravel tyres tends to be immediate and substantial. Just ten millimetres of added volume can alter everything from the bike height to the trail figure of the front end. Wider tyres also allow for lower pressures, which smooths out the ride but can also mute some of the feedback skilled riders rely on to sense their traction limits. These trade-offs cut both ways, but sometimes nothing beats the direct connection to the ground you get from a 45mm, lightly treaded gravel tyre.

Among all the tyres I tested, the Schwalbe Thunder Burt came closest to delivering that classic gravel-tyre feel. It was easily the most comfortable choice on standard gravel roads and the clear pick for an event like Midsouth Gravel. Although that race was ultimately cancelled due to wildfires, I’d never felt more confident in my tyre choice across my four editions.

The Thunder Burt is undeniably fast, holds steady across a range of pressures without diving in turns, and carries enough tread to carve through corners littered with small rocks and loose dirt at speed. It’s not the tyre for mud, but when conditions are dry and gravel is the name of the game, it’s a pro favourite for good reason.

Verdict

Out of all the tyres tested, the Thunder Burt feels most like a classic gravel tyre and the most comfortable over standard gravel roads. It’s undeniably fast, while handling cornering admirably; however, it is not one for wet days.

Ultradynamico Mars Race

The Ride

Bikepacking presents a unique challenge when it comes to tyre choice. Unlike racing, where I typically optimise my tyre choice for performance gains, the priority here is risk management. Too bulky, and road sections become a grind. Too light on treads, and traction suffers under added weight. Too light overall, and flats can quickly ruin a trip.

On a recent trip from Flagstaff, Arizona, to my home in Phoenix, I was faced with these concerns while also stuck in the midst of this test. That was the perfect chance to weigh a bunch of different options and find the right tyre. Ultimately, what I settled on was the Ultradynamico Mars tyre, a unique option with several distinct upsides for the challenge.

Ultradynamico is a tyre brand from Ronnie "Ultra" Romance, a culture-first cyclist, and long-time proponent of wide tyres on rigid drop bar bikes. As the big-tyre revolution has swept through the gravel world, Ultradynamico jumped in the mix with the race-oriented Mars tyre. Measured at 2.25 inches with massive triangular elevated knobs, including a strong centre profile, the tyre could work for a gravel race, but is a bit overkill for most gravel races. Lighter tread patterns simply work better over most surfaces you would see in even the biggest gravel races.

The larger knobs perform best at higher pressures and on rough terrain, while their profile still offers better pavement performance than other high-knob tyres. These traits make them particularly well-suited for bikepacking, where extra system weight and the need for greater puncture resistance call for higher pressures. Unlike many tyres, the Mars maintains strong traction and handling even when inflated to higher levels. For this reason, I’d place the Mars in the same category as the Vittoria Mezcal, a proven favourite among bikepackers.

Verdict

The Mars profile offers better pavement performance than other high-knob tyres, which makes it particularly well-suited for bikepacking, where extra system weight and the need for greater puncture resistance call for higher pressures.

Missing in action - Continental Dubnital

The big tyre that many of you might have been hoping to see on the list is, unfortunately, the one option we were not able to test: the Continental Dubnital. After months of waiting and after we completed the rest of the testing, the Dubnital remained out of stock in the right rubber compound and width to compare with the other top-flight options.

The Dubnital is the updated version of the popular Continental Race King —the tyre that marked the beginning of the big tyre movement. The tyre that Dylan Johnson rode to a top-ten finish at Unbound Gravel in 2024, before demonstrating in a wind tunnel its efficiency over gravel tyres. However, with the Race King showing its age, an update was overdue, especially as Schwalbe, Vittoria and Maxxis continue to push innovation forward.

The good news is I now have a set! The bad news is I had to go and buy them with my own money just to get some time on them. So, as soon as I have put them through their paces, I'll write a full review here for Cycling Weekly.

How I tested

With Karrasch dedicating his work to measuring the pure speed of these tyres, we felt it best to let his numbers stand on their own and instead focus on the other qualities that matter. After all, even the fastest tyre isn’t worth much if it lacks puncture protection, can’t perform at low pressures, or struggles with traction. After testing a dozen sets, I’d argue speed alone is not enough—especially given the price of tyres today.

That’s not to dismiss speed; it remains a key factor. But we aren’t here to be the definitive judge of it. Instead, we’ll consider it alongside the more subjective elements of my testing.

What I can say with confidence is that after a year of riding in every imaginable condition, the six tyres featured here proved themselves capable of meeting the wide-ranging demands of off-road riding, each logging over 300 miles of use. Other tyres were tested but didn’t make the cut, as only a select few stood out in at least one category.

In total, this guide represents thousands of miles and a year of testing—an effort to show what the “big tyre” gravel revolution truly means. It’s designed for riders ready to make the leap: to refine their preferences, make informed choices, and discover the limits of this new blend of speed and compliance.

Conclusions

If you're thinking of running MTB tyres on your gravel bike, like me, read my full breakdown on what I learnt after 12 months of testing. If you would like to stay here, here is an abridged version.

I think we all saw this moment coming, as gravel courses became more demanding, races and riders got faster, there was always going to be a tipping point to where MTB tyres at least came into play; however, given the findings of John Karrash with the Chung method and the top-level athletes, it seems now we just need to go the whole hog. From my rather more subjective point of view, bigger tyres offer great comfort and ultimately, the bigger, gripper tyres mean you can just have a bit more fun.

There are, however, significant differences between the tyres I tested, unlike those of the best gravel tyres. So, while I found you might need to be specific about your compromises, the distinctions between models are much clearer by a long way.

It's worth noting this is just the start of the change, while a number of brands offer large tyre clearances (up to 50mm) and even then thats tight for many. The best gravel bikes will need massive redesigns to take 55mm and up, similar to that of the new Diverge 4.

The secret is out! The best electric bike pumps are here to stay. Over the last year or so, we saw not just a revolution but a complete shift in how we pump up our tyres. What were once clunky, awkward devices have been transformed into sleek, compact designs that easily slip into a jersey pocket.

Given how divisive the topic of electronics is among cyclists, the adoption of portable electric bike pumps has been met with resounding acceptance. With nearly the entire Cycling Weekly team picking up one of the mini portable inflators. The fascinating part is that this is just the first wave of this game-changing technology, yet they have managed to eliminate the need for the best bike mini pumps.

Fear not; it is unlikely they will ever replace the trusty track pump, especially for installing tubeless tyres. However, they have eliminated the need for the best CO2 inflators. Electric pumps deliver more consistent results and represent a more sustainable and economical choice in the long term.

Given the pace at which the category is evolving, our experts are rapidly testing the latest devices. To date, we have tested 13 of the best electric bike pumps, with plenty more to come. In the meantime, the top honours go to the Cycplus AS2 Pro for its speed, precision, and programmability.

Quick List

The Best electric bike pumps 2026, as tested by Cycling Weekly

Best Overall

The AS2 Pro is one of two pumps from Cycplus to make our top-rated list—but when a brand delivers this well at both ends of the scale, it only feels fair to give each one its own spotlight. The AS2 Pro builds on the solid foundation of the standard AS2, adding brains to the brawn without straying too far from its compact and practical roots, which ultimately earns it the crown of best overall.

At a glance, the AS2 Pro looks nearly identical to its sibling - aside from being taller, you’d be hard-pressed to spot the difference. It comes with the same thoughtful extras: a flexible hose, a spare valve seal, a Schrader adapter, and a ball inflator pin.

Where the Pro steps up is in functionality. It features a small digital screen and programmable pressure settings, which gives it a slicker user experience. Simply set your desired PSI and let it do the work. However, the screen and buttons are on the back side of the unit. That layout isn’t the most ergonomic and means you often operate it blind.

The buttons are smaller than those on the regular AS2, which seems like a step backwards - especially when you're fumbling with gloves or cold hands. But performance-wise, the AS2 Pro is the strongest of the two, inflating a 30c tyre to 50 psi in just 37 seconds, making it the fastest unit on test. And with its 420mAh battery, it managed four full inflations - just one shy of the much larger Topeak.

Best budget

The Airbank might not have the name recognition of some of its rivals, but it certainly deserves your attention. Quietly undercutting the competition on price, this is the most affordable pump in the test - yet on paper, it keeps pace in almost every area. It’s also the lightest on test, at just 93 grams!

It packs comparable battery capacity and a maximum pressure rating to the others, and promises a full recharge in under 30 minutes - half the time of some. This might not seem important; however, it means that in a pinch, you can get it charged up just enough to ride without waiting around or cancelling plans.

Now, yes, that lower price does come with a few compromises. There’s no silicone sleeve, and no zipped carry pouch either. You do get a spare valve seal and a Schrader adapter, though, so the essentials are provided.

The Airbank’s ergonomics are spot on. The softened edges and lightweight construction make it the most comfortable to handle. The large button is well placed, and activation is easy, even with gloves on. That said, the LED indicator is just a small pinhole LED inside the button, so visibility isn’t great.

Performance-wise, the Airbank is no slouch. It inflated a 30c tyre to 50psi in just over 50 seconds, making it one of the fastest. It also successfully seated a tubeless tyre without hesitation. That’s genuinely impressive from a pump this compact, this cheap, and this light.

Best nano pump

The Cycplus AS2 is quietly impressive with a few thoughtful touches that make it a strong contender in this test. Straight out of the box, there are more accessories than most - namely, a flexible hose, a spare valve seal, and even a Schrader adapter pin. That’s already one up on the Muc-Off in terms of value, especially when you factor in long-term usability.

It also arrives in a silicone case. While it doesn’t have quite the same polished look as the AirMach’s, it’s just as functional, offering good grip and protection. The pump’s nozzle is smaller, too, which means the form factor is more compact in a jersey pocket. The trade-off here is that swapping valve types or replacing the seal is a little fiddlier.

Performance-wise, it operates almost identically to the AirMach: one press to wake, double press to inflate. One small gripe is that the button is located on the underside and is completely covered by the case. It works fine, but trying to find it without looking (especially with gloves) is a bit of a faff. A simple cut-out or embossing would go a long way here.

In the field, the AS2 reached 50 psi in 60 seconds and seated a tubeless tyre just as well as its competitors. A bonus point is that it runs quieter and with noticeably less vibration than the competition.

Best for multiple inflations

The Topeak E-Booster Digital is noticeably larger than its closest rivals, and while that pushes the bounds of what you’d realistically want to carry in a jersey pocket, there’s a clear payoff. Inside that bigger shell sits a generous 600mAh battery - comfortably the biggest of the bunch. For anyone planning multiple inflations or longer trips, that added capacity could be worth considering - think gravel riding and bikepacking.

A feature that stood out on the E-booster was the sliding toggle offering dual Presta and Schrader compatibility without changing parts. It’s simple, effective, and very user-friendly. The digital screen is large and clear, and the illuminated buttons are easy to press even with gloves on. The interface is intuitive, too, making it super easy to use.

A couple of minor niggles did crop up; the screen and controls are positioned on the opposite side to the nozzle, which can make things fiddly when you're crouched down. I accidentally press a button mid-inflation, which causes it to shut off, and it’s a little too easy to cover the air intake port with your hand - but these are far from deal-breakers. Performance-wise, it hit 50psi in exactly 60 seconds and barely made a dent in the battery.

Best ergonomics

Muc-Off is arguably the most recognisable name here, which meant I had reasonably high expectations for the brand’s first foray into the electric pump space. I’m pleased to report that the AirMach delivers where it counts.

First impressions were strong. The silicone outer sleeve not only gives the AirMach a premium feel in the hand, but the textured pattern adds a useful amount of grip. This design feels well considered.

The valve head itself is nicely machined, with metal knurling that makes switching between Presta and Schrader easy. That said, the actual valve seal is made from quite a soft rubber. It worked perfectly in testing, but you get the impression it may wear out quickly. There are no spares in the box either - Muc-Off does say that replacements are easy to come by.

As with most pumps in this test, the USB-C charging port doubles as the air intake, and the button layout is intuitive. Performance-wise, it took around 60 seconds to inflate a 30c tyre from flat to 50psi. More impressively, it managed to seat a tubeless tyre without breaking a sweat.

Best for high pressures

The Fumpa Nano is perhaps the most visually distinct and most feature-rich pumpon test. With its curved chassis and anodised aluminium finish, it has more in common with a high-end gadget than a bike pump. Beyond this sleek appearance lies some serious performance.

In use, the Nano feels great in the hand. The curved edge sits naturally against the palm, and the raised button is easy to find, even in low light. Operation differs slightly from the others - rather than tapping a sequence, you simply press and hold to start, then press again to stop. It’s intuitive and worked without a hitch in testing.

The raw aluminium looks sharp but offers noticeably less grip, especially with gloves or wet fingers. It also conducts heat and vibration more than the others, something I noticed when the pump had been running at full pelt for 60 seconds.

That said, it’s fast. The Fumpa Nano inflated a 30c tyre to 50 psi in just under a minute and seated a tubeless tyre with no fuss. It’s clearly got more grunt than most, and it shows.

Specification Overview

Testing Results

Our testing of the best electric bike pumps was twofold. Our primary test involved a simple timed inflation assessment: how quickly can a pump inflate a 700 x 30mm tyre to 50 PSI? We also began testing whether the pumps could seat one of the best tubeless road bike tyres; however, all six of the smallest 'Nano' pumps achieved this, which is fantastic news. This meant I didn't need to test the more powerful units.

Most recently tested

Also tested

Flextail Tiny Bike Pump - While the Flextail packs a slightly bigger battery than the other pumps in the 'Nano' category, it felt like it was simply trying to do too much with things like its on-bike mount and emergency light feature.

RockBros AS1 Pro Mini - One of the few devices to feature a button on the side of the unit, which was a significant advantage for me, as it inflated my tyre to 50 psi incredibly quickly in just 36 seconds. The trade-off for the large battery and rapid inflation is that the AS1 gets really hot.

Fumpa OG - Since this is a pump that won’t be joining you on rides, I wasn't too concerned about its size and weight. What’s truly impressive about this pump is how quickly it inflates. It filled my 30c tyre to 50psi in just 18 seconds. It was an outstanding performance that it achieved with ease.

Cycplus AS2 Pro MAX - It follows the same formula as the two smaller models and performs just as well. It isn’t quite as quick to inflate as the Fumpa, taking 30 seconds to reach 50psi; however, it still demonstrates good performance.

Bosch EasyPump Cordless - It’s the only pump which breaks away from the incredibly similar design language of all the other models on test. However, it is heavily geared towards Schrader inflation, I imagine, for car users rather than bicycle users.

Fumpa Mini - The Fumpa Mini is a big brother to the Nano, and the size difference is noticeable, with every dimension getting considerably bigger. Despite having the smallest battery, it’s the heaviest in the category.

How we tested the best electric bike pumps

With over 100 years of cycling expertise and testing under our belts, Cycling Weekly carries a vast amount of experience into every review we do. We have a dedicated team whose job is to review a wide range of cycling products and write objective reviews based on their experiences with them in various conditions.

When evaluating the best electric bike pumps, we considered user-friendliness, inflation speed, battery life, portability, and overall value. The vast majority of this testing took place in the workshop, allowing us to maintain replicable conditions and providing easy access to power and a stopwatch. However, throughout the testing, we were fortunate—or perhaps unfortunate—to experience punctures out on the road that required inflation, enabling us to test in real-world conditions.

To put the portable electric bike pumps to the test, I devised two simple tasks that would accurately replicate the two most common real-world situations. The first was a simple timed test, where I imagined it was a cold, wet day with cars rushing past. How quickly can the pumps achieve 50 PSI? Why 50 PSI? With road tyres getting wider and the norm being around 30mm, 50 PSI is roughly where most tubeless users will be and represent the lower end of a tubed setup. I set the benchmark at 60 seconds; this made sense as, in a couple of minutes, one could use a manual bicycle pump. I felt that the electric ones not only need to take the effort out of it, but also be speedier.

The second is the more difficult of the two tests, which was to seat and inflate a tubeless tyre. However, I only performed this test on the 'Nano' pumps, and as all of them achieved it, the assumption was that the more powerful pumps would as well. The couple I checked certainly did.

Meet our tester

How to choose the best electric bike pump for you

You can break down the best electric bike pumps into three categories - nano, mini and off-bike. That’s because, as I received all of these different pumps for testing, I started to notice a clear divide between them and the specifications they offer.

However, some things were universal across all of them: they’re all USB-C rechargeable, which is a win for those with a newish smartphone, as it's just one cable. All the pumps cater to both Presta and Schrader valves (some more successfully than others), and they all come with a sealable travel bag to keep the pump free of dirt and water—a critical factor in ensuring your pump works for years to come.

Ultimately, with testing complete and with all the pumps here achieving at least one tyre inflation or tubeless seating, the best electric bike pump for you really boils down to three factors:

1. How much weight are you willing to carry in your pocket?
2. What is the size of your tyres, and how many inflations would you like to be able to do out on the road?
3. How good are you at remembering to keep things charged and ready?

'Nano' Pumps

All pumps in the nano category, except one, feature a 300 milliamp-hour sized battery, which means a quick charge time of 30 minutes or less and are under 110g/3.8oz. They all claim to reach a maximum of 100 psi, making them ideal for road use, especially for those on short rides, where it might be just a get-home situation, running a tubeless setup, and the likelihood of a puncture is low, or for those looking to keep their gear to a minimum.

'Mini' Pumps

The distinct difference between the nano’s and the mini’s can be boiled down to three things, which are intertwined. These pumps all have generally larger form factors, with heavier weights ranging from 120g/4.2oz to 190g/6.7oz. This is essentially a result of the bigger 400 to 600 mAh batteries.

As a result of this extra power and size, brands have started to introduce LCD displays and additional buttons that predominantly allow you to pre-set or program a desired pressure, which will automatically cut the pump when reached.

These larger, more powerful pumps are ideal for those concerned about multiple punctures on a ride or always riding with that mate who never carries a pump. The extra puff also makes it the best suited for inflating the best gravel bike tyres and use on multi-day or extended rides where charging opportunities are few and far between.

'Off-bike/workshop' Pumps

Last but certainly not least, we have the off-bike category. Essentially, these are pumps that are better suited for staying at home, in the workshop, in the garage, or in the car. They feature much larger batteries and are ultimately a bit more powerful and faster inflating.

While it matters much less, these pumps are generally between 200g/7oz and 400g/14.1oz. For those who always have one of the best handlebar bags on their bike, it is not impossible to carry one of these around, but only if you're using large gravel tyres of 50c and above, or MTB tyres. However, you certainly want somewhere on the bike to carry them.

Frequently asked questions about electric bike pumps

We have all seen the videos, brazen criminals in broad daylight, wielding angle grinders at a bike rack. What can you do? It's over in a matter of seconds, so, really, not much; it comes down to relying on your insurance company to pay out, if you have it, of course. That is where the best angle grinder-resistant bike locks are changing the game.

Thanks to advancements in materials technology, there are now half a dozen angle-grinder-resistant bike locks on the market, five of which I have tested. These highly secure locks are both reasonably lightweight and affordable, making them a bit of a no-brainer compared to many of the best bike locks; some even qualify as the best lightweight bike locks.

My testing was relatively simple. I very simply cut them with an angle grinder. I wanted to know just how quickly it could be done, as, in reality, bike thieves have only a few minutes, if not seconds, to cut and run. You can read my full hypothesis, verdict, and testing details at the bottom of this guide, but very briefly, I gave myself five minutes and unlimited discs to see if I could break the locks within the time limit.

All five of the bike locks tested performed admirably and offered excellent resistance to angle grinders. However, one lock truly stood out. The OnGuard RockSolid had already impressed me, thanks to its low weight, low cost, and near-flawless function. But its ability to literally turn grinder discs to dust was quite remarkable.

Wrecked and rated: the Best angle grinder-resistant bike locks 2026

Best Overall

Proving to be virtually impenetrable, affordable, light, and small enough to fit in your pocket, it's no wonder that the OnGuard RockSolid 8590 bike lock was voted the best overall.

Gaining in-depth security wisdom from parent brand and security giant Magnum, this Sold Secure Diamond-rated OnGuard bike lock is, at 1.3kg/2.8 lbs, almost a whole kilo/2.2 lbs lighter than the similarly performing Abus Granit Super Extreme 2500.

There is a size compromise to be aware of; the RockSolid is the smallest on the test by a decent margin. With a maximum shackle of 17.5 cm/6.8 inches and an internal width of 9cm/3.5 inches, it has only 157cm²/61.8in² of potential locking volume.

Boasting anti-pick, pull and drill protection, the key-operated lock mechanism is a force to be reckoned with, but it was OnGuard’s anti-grinder capability impressed us the most. On test, we burnt through three grinder discs, while barely making a scratch on the patented RockSolid rubberized surface finish of the hardened steel shackle. And that’s not all. It’s priced as one of the cheapest on test making this a crowd-pleaser with every security-conscious cyclist.

Read Matt's complete review of the OnGuard RockSolid 8590

Best all-round

Building on its first-hand experience of suffering bike thefts in London, the Litelok team specialises in material technology research, creating a composite it’s named Barronium. Described as a super hard ceramic material, it enabled the lock to withstand over two metal-graded grinder disc attacks. We only managed to penetrate 50 per cent of the shackle in a five-minute window, which should be more than enough to deter most thieves.

This strong structure has a weight penalty of around a kilo compared to the lightest Sold Secure diamond-rated bike lock we’ve tested, the OnGuard RockSolid 8590. However, it does come with extra reach. At 19.5cm/7.6 inches tall by 10cm/4 inches wide, this equates to 195 cm²/ 30.4in² of total space.

We also loved the LiteLok X3 silicone outer coating, which helps prevent frame scratches, as well as its neoprene storage sock. When the lock was in use, and I was off the bike, I repurposed the latter into a handy storage pouch for my riding gear.

It’s slightly more expensive than the OnGuard RockSoild 8590, which I awarded the best overall, but the Litelok X3 is likely better all-round value thanks to its greater reach and potential to mount on your bike - if of course you are happy to pay the extra cost.

Read Matt's complete review of the Litelok X3

Best Value

Abus has constructed the Granit Super Extreme 2500 using tungsten carbide, which is a combination of tough tungsten steel and carbon composite materials, and as a result it the second-hardest known substance after diamonds. This Sold Secure diamond-rated lock withstood our five-minute angle grinder attack, with one metal-grade grinding disc managing to slice only halfway through the lock’s 27 mm square parabolic shackle. However, while this will likely deter most bike thieves, the more determined could, in theory, return for a second attempt.

Besides its resistance to angle grinder attack, the Abus Granit Super Extreme 2500's biggest selling point is its locking area. Measuring 22cm/ 8.6 inches in height and 10cm/ 4 inches in width, it has a total usable capacity of 220 cm²/ 34.4in². Even when factoring in the width of a bike stand (5cm/2 inches), there was enough shackle to secure my e-bike’s beefy downtube.

Despite its extra size, the Granit weighs an impressive 2.1 kg/4.6 lbs. This makes the Abus 100g/3.5oz lighter than the smaller LiteLok X3. It is also impressively portable thanks to its versatile on-bike mount, which, unlike the X3, is included with the Granit SE.

While it is not the cheapest lock of its type, it is nowhere near the most expensive either. However, its extra reach, lightweight design, ease of transportation, and factoring in its decent performance against angle grinders make it an attractive bike lock for commuters, cargo bikes and e-bikes.

Read Matt's complete review of the Abus Granit Super Extreme 2500

Most Secure

Hiplok has recently celebrated a quarter of a century in the bike lock business, and its experience clearly shows with the design and construction of the DX1000. This Sold Secure Diamond-rated lock has been created specifically for bikes with bulkier tubing profiles or for anyone requiring a larger shackle size - it measures 20.5cm/ 8 inches tall by 11cm/ 4.3 inches wide. This equates to a locking volume of around 225cm²/34.4 in², but don’t forget you'll need to take account of the object you’re locking to.

Built from a graphene-reinforced hardened steel, the shackle is then covered in a thick, soft rubber casing. This, combined with the extra length and Hiplok's claim of an unpickable lock, adds significant weight to the DX1000, which is comparatively heavy at 2.7kg/5.9 lbs.

I really rated the Hiplok DX1000's performance against the angle grinder. It burned out two metal-grade grinder disks in five minutes, matching the Litelok X3, and pretty much forced me to stop. I believe this was due to disc binding with the material in the lock's core. For safety reasons, with the grinder kickback, I couldn't continue to cut. It's certainly not something a thief is going to want to deal with, especially as they won't have the lock in a secure vice like I did.

Despite this performance, the DX1000 is the most expensive bike lock on test. That doesn't factor in the cost of the new mount, which I think is a worthwhile investment to transport about this nearly 3kg lock.

Read Matt's complete review of the Hiplok DX1000

Also on test - Honourable mention

Squire may not be the first name that comes to mind when considering bike locks. Yet, they are among the few bicycle accessories manufactured in the United Kingdom and have proved popular among the motorcycle community.

Firstly, the Stronghold, like the other four locks on test, passed our angle grinder test. It allowed us to cut around two-thirds of the way through during our five-minute test, which, for many, will be enough. It offers decent security, supported by its Sold Secure diamond rating.

However, I was disappointed when I used the Squire Stronghold D16 Max, the second most expensive lock on test. It was clear that a significant portion of the price was spent on materials resistant to angle grinder attacks, while finer details appeared to have been neglected. This was particularly evident in the plastic cover encasing the main lock body, which rattled loosely and seemed detached from whatever was beneath, creating an impression of fragility. Additionally, there was noticeable play between the lock body and the shackle, a factor we know from Hiplok doesn’t impact security but undermines trust in the product.

While these aesthetic and tactile features don’t impact performance, one significant flaw of the D16 Max did frustrat me. Like the DX1000 from Hiplok, the D16 Max is enveloped in a considerable amount of rubberized material to protect and enhance its visual deterrence. Even with the third largest locking area at 209cm², securing my bike with it was challenging. This may be due to the Squire’s narrow shape at 9.5cm and its elongated length of 22cm, but the excessive rubberized covering and its formed shape certainly didn’t help matters.

It is a shame to be so harsh on something made in Britain; it feels so unpatriotic. In this instance, the Stronghold D16 Max is up against such strong competition and has too many compromises. Considering that for an extra £10, you can have the Hiplok DX1000, which weighs the same, has a greater reach, and outperformed Squire in the angle grinder test, it is hard to justify a recommendation here.

Specification overview

Hypothesis

Before diving into our testing of angle grinder-resistant bike locks, I thought it best to share the context behind our testing procedure and the findings from my research, of which three key points stood out to me:

1. While browsing YouTube late one night, I was shocked at how brazen the thieves could be and that it happened in broad daylight in heavily populated towns and cities.

2. During a brief conversation with a friend—a police officer in Kent, UK—they pointed out that these thieves rarely target bikes specifically. They are regularly found to have stolen the tools used in the theft from building sites & DIY stores. This suggests many bike thieves are opportunists rather than part of a more organised crime netweork.

3. We also discussed the typical responses from both the public and the police*. According to police experiences, the public regularly step in to either try and stop the act or to start filming it. This led me to wonder how long a thief would remain undeterred before giving up and I concluded that you essentially have around a minute to steal a bike and flee.

So, how did all this inform my methodology?

* For the record, a bike theft involving an angle grinder would likely warrant a Grade 1 call-out, which requires a threat to life, use of violence, serious injury, or serious damage to property; in 2023, the reported average response time in metropolitan police areas for this grade was just under 11 minutes.

Methodology - How I tested

No scenario is perfect. I recognize that situations might differ if the bike were in a garage or private property, but unless the thief is sure the owner isn't home and won't be returning soon, it is almost always an opportunistic theft.

So, armed with my PPE, my risk assessment and in my controlled environment, I set out to see if you could cut an angle grinder-resistant lock in under five minutes. Which is significantly more time than my research suggested I'd need or likely get.

I conducted my testing using a popular battery-powered angle grinder model from a nationwide retailer. I also spent money on a grinder disc designed to cut specifically through metal, hoping this would give me the best chance of 'success'.

In an ideal world, I would need to make two clean cuts, either through the shackle or one through the shackle and one through the lock. This is because all of these locks feature anti-twist, anti-tampering mechanisms and hardened materials, meaning a single cut wouldn't be enough.

Meet the tester

Angle Grinder Test Results

This chart simplifies our testing results, showing how far I could cut through the lock and how many grinder discs this required in our five-minute test. I have also outlined the shackle dimension for each lock for comparison.

Verdict

The good news is that none of the locks in our test failed our five-minute attack. Certainly, once you start extrapolating the results, the Onguard, Litlok, and Hiplok outperformed the Abus and Squire considerably. This means the thief would still need twenty-plus minutes and half a dozen grinder discs, which is unrealistic even in a garage or low-traffic area.

The test ultimately proves that these locks are not impenetrable, but they do enough to likely slow a thief down, force them to give up and move on or flee.

My real takeaway is that despite using a quality (and brand new) grinder, high-quality grinder discs, and having the locks secured in a vice, all unlikely scenarios a thief would themselves with, I could not speed up the process and cut a lock to the point it could be removed in a time a thief might have.

As part of this test, I did not attack any of these locks with other tools. Why did I not do this? In part, Sold Secure in the UK and ART in Europe do much of this for us by offering independent testing and easy-to-understand rating systems. What is worth noting is that while all the locks on this test are Sold Secure Diamond rated, there are two levels of this standard. One for bicycle locks and one for motorbike locks. The big difference between the two is the cutting/crushing force, which, given the forces involved, even at the diamond cycle level, we could not have replicated without very specialist tools. Given the disturbing trend toward using angle grinders and the lack of facilities for thieves to use a hydraulic cutting device on the street, we opted to focus on angle grinders.

How to choose the best angle-grinder resistant bike lock

Selecting the right angle-grinder-resistant bike lock is slightly different from the wide variety of types you get with the best bike locks. To make a bike lock angle grinder-resistant, the materials used are much more challenging to produce in complex shapes and are highly inflexible. Therefore, all the locks in this guide, along with the few that have been launched since our testing, are in the U or D lock style.

Given that all the locks in this guide, and any for that matter, that offer angle grinder-resistance are all Diamond-rated Sold Secure, there isn't really any question about the bike's value, where you might leave it, or for how long. Which means choosing the best angle grinder-resistant bike lock for you really comes down to just two factors:

Transportation - High-security bike locks, in some cases, tend to be slightly heavier, espcially those with a long reach. If you always travel with a backpack or pannier, it is less of an issue, but be prepared to make space for it and lug around the extra kilo or couple of pounds. For those who choose to travel lighter or use their commute for training, it can be more challenging. Finding a lock with a mount like those from Hiplok, Litelok, or Abus is recommended. Consider leaving your lock at work or at your regular destination; if that is the only place you lock your bike, it might be an option.

Reach - While the actual location you leave your bike is less of a consideration, what street furniture you have to secure can be. This may simply reflect how busy the bike racks can get. If you regularly have to lock to a lamppost or railing, additional reach may be needed.

Frequently asked questions about bike locks

As cyclists, we obsess about weight, be it our bodies or our bikes, so you would think we'd all want one of the best lightweight bike locks. The lightest bike locks certainly make transportation easier, especially when they are wearable. So, why don't we all have one?

Until recently, there was a direct correlation between a bike lock's weight and its security level. However, thanks to innovations in locks, such as our best bike lock, the OnGuard RockSolid, lightweight bike locks that resist angle-grinder attacks are increasingly widely available. This advancement in high security is also improving budget-friendly locks, like the OnGuard Pitbull, which boasts a diamond Sold Secure rating while remaining very affordable.

To help you determine which lock is best for you, the Cycling Weekly team has conducted extensive usability testing, evaluating all locks in real-world scenarios, such as our daily commutes, to provide you with a comprehensive overview. In this guide, you will find six of the best lightweight, wearable bike locks, which we have rated highly in our testing.

Last but not least, while the best lightweight bike locks are increasingly secure and effective deterrents, it's worth backing them up with some of the best bike insurance, just in case.

Best lightweight bike locks: quick list

Our top-rated and best lightweight and wearable bike locks

Best lightweight lock overall

Proving to be light, small, low cost, and virtually impenetrable when attacked by an angle grinder. It's no wonder that the OnGuard RockSolid 8590 bike lock came out on top as Cycling Weekly’s best overall bike lock and the winner of my angle grinder-resistant bike locks test.

This Sold Secure Diamond-rated lock is just 1.3kg/2.8 lbs; It has a locking area of 17.5 cm/6.8 inches by 9cm/3.5 inches internal width, and there’s 157cm²/61.8in² of potential locking volume.

The key-operated lock mechanism is formidable, protecting against picking, pulling, and drilling. However, it was OnGuard’s anti-grinder feature that truly stood out to us. During testing, we exhausted three grinder discs, which hardly left a mark on the patented RockSolid surface finish of the hardened steel shackle. Plus, it is one of the most affordable options among its bike lock competitors, appealing to cyclists who prioritize security.

If I had to find fault with this absolutely brilliant lock, it would be that it doesn't feature a mount or the ability to be carried on the bike. But at 1.3 kg/2.8 lbs, is that really an issue?

Read our full OnGuard RockSolid bike lock review

Best cafe lock

Weighing just 70g/2.4oz, the Z Lok resembles an oversized zip tie with a steel ribbon enclosed in a plastic exterior. It's ideal for attaching your frame to a post or railing and securing your wheels, providing enough deterrent for a thief when you are in close proximity, such as during a café stop or at the pub. However, it’s not a lock you’ll want to rely on for extended periods, as it carries no Sold Secure rating.

During testing, I was never troubled by the Z Loks' length; at 40cm/15.7", securing a top tube or seat tube to something immobile is about right. The zip tie style design allows for a decent amount of adjustment, and you can really ramp up the tension, which helps remove any possibility of gaining leverage when cutting. The combo locks also mean no keys are needed, and unlike the other Z Loks, you don’t have to carry the forked tool to remove it, which means you can just grab and go and cut down on your pre-ride faff!

In conclusion, considering the Z Lok's cost and ultra-low weight, it's a no-brainer to always keep it by your helmet and shoes or in a handlebar bag, ready to go. I’ve encountered numerous scenarios where it adds a little extra security and peace of mind, such as securing a battery in an e-bike that isn't key-operated, locking my helmet to my bike so I don't have to carry it around, and the list goes on.

Read our full Hiplok Z Lok Combo review

Best lightweight folding lock

This handy little folding lock proved to be just the right size. When folded up, it measures a compact 19cm/7.4" x 6cm/2.3", making it one of the smallest and lightest Silver-rated locks available. It features six strong steel bars connected by stainless rivets, creating a secure circumference of 85cm/33.4".

Like its rival, the Abus Bordo Granit X Plus, it can easily attach to your bike’s bottle cage mounts using a handy plastic case or the straps provided. Plus, I found it stays secure and whisper-quiet while you’re on the go.

I really appreciate how the internal locking space gave me enough room to fasten it through my bike's front wheel and frame before attaching it to a bike rack or similar. Thanks to its compact design, it’s less cumbersome and far easier to handle than the folding Abus. Locking up is just as quick as with a U-lock but with a touch of extra flexibility that this design offers. If you value both weight and portability, the Compact will surely be an attractive choice for you.

Read our full Seatylock Foldylock Compact lock review

Best lightweight chain lock

The 6206K Goose's strength comes from a 6mm hardened steel chain. Two springs wound together along its length give the chain its characteristic Goose neck-like shape and add stability to the lock. After popping the Goose on the scales, I found it to be a little heavier than claimed, but what is 100g/3.5oz between friends? Given that chain locks are normally considerably heavier, I can show some forgiveness here.

The goose's foam and plastic coating, combined with its flexibility as a chain, make transporting it a breeze. It can be wrapped around almost any tube on your frame without fear of damage. These characteristics also make it a dream to use at the bike rack, as those springs make even the most awkward situations easy to navigate.

The 6206K is undoubtedly lightweight and one of the most useable locks I have encountered. While it's incredibly well made and, after weeks of testing in a variety of conditions, clearly durable, its low-security rating lets it down. You are unlikely to use the Goose as your sole lock, and if you do, you won't want to step too far away from your bike for prolonged periods of time.

That said, it will ward off opportunist thieves and could be a great option for bikepacking or the café ride.

Read our full Abus 6206K Goose review

Best budget lightweight lock

Don't let the Pitbull Mini's compact size fall you; it really punches above its weight. Weighing just 1.3kg, it boasts an impressive Diamond Sold Secure rating. This little champion measures only 9cm/3.6" x 14cm/5.5", yet it has a robust 14mm/0.5" hardened steel shackle and a secure ‘bump lock’ cylinder that resists picking, pulling, and drilling. Its lightweight design and handy dimensions make it easy to take along for the ride, whether using the included mounting bracket or just tossing it into your bag.

It rattled less than most bigger U-locks when I had it attached to the frame, but it certainly was not as secure as the folding locks, which can be mounted directly to a bottle cage mount. Its compact size naturally means the internal locking space is limited, restricting your options for locking your bike to various objects, which may not be ideal for users needing more flexibility. I found that for most dedicated bike racks, it was sufficient, but I struggled with railings or lamp posts.

If you consistently secure your bike in a similar spot, such as a train station or outside an office, and this compact lock fits well, it’s an excellent choice for minimizing your carrying weight without compromising security.

Best wearable lock overall

Made in the UK, the Straplok 35/850 (850 denotes its overall length in mm or 2.7ft) uses multiple high-tensile steel cores wrapped in a flexible layer and protected with a neoprene cover. Squire secures the Staplok using its unique patented ‘linear pin tumbler’ locking mechanism. Simply insert the key, which requires no turning, and push the button to unlock.

There is much to like about the Squire Straplok, starting with its comfort. Squire has put much effort into developing the belt adapter, which can be tensioned to keep the lock in place while pedalling. The neoprene cover supports this, making the lock soft to the touch.

Thanks to its sublime flexibility, using the Straplok at the bike rack was a breeze. The simple button lock barrel makes unlocking and locking easy, especially when reaching for the lock in awkward or tight situations.

However, it's not all positive. Despite the Straplok's 4.5 out of 5 stars, it only holds a Sold Secure silver rating. This rating will restrict its applications and influence the value of the bike you ultimately secure with it.

Read our full Squire Straplok 35/850 bike lock review

How we test

The Cycling Weekly team tested locks for urban cycling by using them on rides to offices, supermarkets, pubs, and errands. Our evaluation focuses on everyday use, with ratings based on weight, shape, locking mechanism, attachment, feel, security, and value, the qualities most relevant to real-world scenarios.

The tech team rarely conducts destruction tests unless a lock claims resistance to angle grinders, in which case we have designed a slightly different real-world testing protocol. Instead, we will rely on reputable organizations like Sold Secure or ART for their expertise and recommendations on security levels.

Note that no bike lock is completely impenetrable; even those that claim angle grinder resistance can eventually be removed with persistence. It is advisable to get some of the best bike insurance policies that recognise your bike and offer a decent replacement value. For more about Cycling Weekly's testing methods, visit our How We Test page.

Meet the tester

How to choose the best lightweight bike lock for you

With lightweight and wearable bike locks offering a wide range of security levels, the balance is always between the locks' overall weight and the security it provides, which makes for a relatively simple equation. Generally, the lighter the lock, the lower the security. Although this is not a hard and fast rule, it covers most of the locks featured in this guide.

Arguably, the locks application should determine the lock of choice; however, budget constraints start to play a part at this point. So, here is my quick cheat sheet for choosing the best lightweight and wearable bike locks:

• Risk - this, of course, is the biggest deciding factor when choosing a lock. How much risk is your bike under when you park it up? This doesn't always mean where you park it, or the neighbourhood you choose to stop in. Sure, this is a factor; however, it could just be how desirable your bike is. Does it look expensive? Is it customised? Does it feature large logos?
• Time - The weight put on how long a bike is left is maybe slightly over-egged, however, it should be a consideration. Any bike left for any period is at risk, but of course, one left especially overnight, for example, might be at greater risk.
• Distance - how far are you from your bike? If it is sitting right next to you at the cafe, but unlocked, it is the same risk as a locked bike in a garage down the road from your house. Sure, you can be alert to someone trying to make away with it; however, even if it is locked to a friend's bike, that makes it more awkward.
• Usability - it's like anything; if the lock is complicated or doesn't work for most applications, you won't want to use it. Maybe the lock is too heavy for your needs or the locking mechanism is not intuitive. If possible, try before you buy. Stick it in a jersey pocket to feel the weight and see if it reaches around your bike without any issues.

What we're saying is that this advice is relevant for all bike locks. If you feel your bike is at risk, then more security is rarely going to be a bad thing; it really is as simple as that. Generally speaking, you have two choices: buy the most expensive lock you can afford, or simply make your bike less attractive to thieves than the one beside it. For instance, this could mean using multiple locks instead of just one or removing bold graphics.

How best to lock a bike

The recommendation has always been to travel with two high-security locks: one to secure your frame and rear wheel and the other to secure your front wheel to your frame or bike rack. However, carrying two locks is a little cumbersome, not to mention two sets of keys, and quite costly overall. With the advent of axle security devices and thru-axles for most high-end bikes, securing wheels with a lock has become less necessary.

Other ways to secure your bike without a lock include GPS trackers, registration, and, of course, purchasing the best bicycle insurance you can afford.

Assuming you have one high-security lock, the best practice is to thread it through the strongest part of your bike. This is usually the seat tube and seat stays, as pictured above. The strength of this locking method comes from not just multiple tubes being in the way but also the classic triangulation of forces.

This method ensures a secure lock. It also allows you to secure your rear wheel at the same time, provided your lock has enough reach. If necessary, a cable or chain can be attached to secure other parts of your bike, like a child seat or front wheel.

For a more comprehensive guide on securing your bike, have a look at our guide with advice on Eight Ways to Secure Your Bike

FAQs about lightweight & wearable bike locks

The humble tubeless valve is an integral part of any tubeless setup. It might just be a way to get air from outside the tyre to inside the tyre, but is it worth spending a few extra pounds to get valves that offer more than the basics? Whether you use performance tyres or endurance tyres, I would suggest that it is well worth fitting a decent tubeless valve.

In its simplest form, a tubeless valve is the same as a Presta valve on an inner tube, except that there is a rubber bung at the end that fits into the hole in the rim bed rather than being bonded to the inner tube. However, the valves on test here all have extra features that make them a step above basic valves, whether that is better airflow, improved construction, or even the inclusion of a handy tool or two.

Whilst most of these valves have removable valve cores for easier initial inflation (this allows air to be 'dumped' into the tyre which helps pop the bead onto the rim), tubeless setup is much simpler if airflow with the core in place is still sufficient to set the tyre in place.

The quick list

Best tubeless valves

Best overall

For their Filmore tubeless valve, Reserve has used a different design to all other Presta valves, which they claim offers 3x more airflow and vastly reduces the chances of the valve clogging up with sealant. The pump end of the valve doesn't unscrew but sits permanently proud of the valve with an internal rod that connects all the way through to the other end of the valve. When pushed, this shifts the poppet (disc-like cap) at the other end out of the valve, clearing the way for air or sealant. The design means that the valve does not have a removable valve core, but it shouldn't need one.

In use, this worked very well. Not only could I pop the tyre onto the rim using the Airshot but I could also happily fill the tyre with sealant through the valve. The exposed 'core' of the valve does need protecting though, so the caps need to be used at all times due to the permanently open construction and the caps are a special design inside to accommodate the head of the core, so you need the specific Reserve caps.

Adjusting air pressure using the Filmore is slightly different from a standard valve; if you press the end of the 'core' as usual, air is dumped out very quickly, making it hard to regulate - a clear demonstration of the valve's effectiveness. So the correct procedure is to slightly unscrew the cap and tap the end of that instead which allows for a much more controlled adjustment.

The only negative I found during the test was that the black anodising started to wear off at the top of the valve after repeated inflation. This was more noticeable on the wheel with a troublesome tyre that needed constant top-ups, so it was clearly caused by my track pump.

Reserve says that the design makes the valve compatible with inserts if you are using them on your gravel or mountain bike. Only three lengths and one colour are available, and they aren't cheap, but these are the easiest and best tubeless valves available.

Best for off-road

As a collaboration between successful British downhiller Steve Peat and renowned American component manufacturer Chris King, these valves are a thing of beauty. With 12 colours available to match those of Chris King's products, they are a very bling way to finish off a dream build, although the chunky aesthetics do lend themselves far better to gravel and mountain bikes than svelte road bikes in my opinion.

Part of this is because the two metal caps act as handy trailside tools, with a 3.4mm spoke key and a valve core remover built into them, making them larger than a normal cap.

Inflation was quick without needing to remove the core and the large bore size with four-way cross-cut channels should ensure no clogging and compatibility with tyre inserts. The large, texture locknut allowed for easy tightening by finger, but they also have a 10mm flat section so that if the nut does need more pressure or is difficult to undo, then a spanner can be used rather than pliers. On this subject, whether by luck or clever design, these hardly needed more than snugging up to create a good seal with the rim. There is a rubber O ring under the locknut, but this stayed in place well, unlike the CushCore version.

Best for inserts

As you'd expect with CushCore's primary business being tyre inserts, these valves are designed to work well with inserts. As well as the primary hole there are also large side exit ports that will allow airflow even if the valve is pressed up against an insert.

The locknut is nice and large for a decent grip but the rubber grommet that sits against the wheel rim was quite awkward to keep in its groove; sections of it would bulge out as I tightened the nut down.

The Airshot was able to dump sufficient air through the valve so I didn't need to remove the core and the matching metal caps added a quality feel to the whole product.

Best for tools

Another nicely made valve, the Lezyne CNC TLR is well featured, with a valve core tool in each cap and a T25 tip. The T25 slots into the base of the valve, allowing it to be tightened more easily into the rim to create a better seal. At a push, it could be used for roadside adjustments on other T25 bolts if paired with a suitable spanner. Both the cap and the locknut are heavily knurled for a good grip, but there is a slightly awkward O-ring to deal with that sits under the locknut.

Inflation with the valve core in place was easily achieved but there are no extra egress points for the air, meaning that the valves won't work too well with inserts and that clogging with sealant is quite likely to occur after a while.

Best for fit

The Muc-Off tubeless valves V2 differentiating factor is that they are supplied with three different-shaped rubber grommets for a better seal with awkwardly shaped rim beds. The standard grommets worked fine with my rims, but it's a nice touch that could save some time and effort with some rims. Two standard metal caps and a cap with a valve core remover are also in the packet, which at the very least gives you a spare, matching valve cap.

There are six slots in the base for air to exit from, making the valves compatible with inserts and much less likely to get gunked up with sealant. Although there is a rubber O-ring under the locknut, it seemed to stay in place better than some and didn't cause any issues. The flat sections on the locknuts aren't huge but might help if the nuts are stuck on.

With the valve core in place, inflation was easy and made for a very simple tubeless setup experience.

Best for length

I particularly like the 'Vittoria' branding on the side of the Multiway valves - a nice way to elevate a basic product aesthetically. On a more practical note, the small, flat section on the valve stem was a handy way to stop the stem from rotating as the locknut was tightened. The caps included one with a valve core remover and with four exits per valve, use with inserts should not be an issue.

There are four lengths available, including a very long 100mm for deep rims, but the colour choice is one Henry Ford would approve of; black only. Inflation took a couple of goes with the valve core in place, but was otherwise trouble-free.

Best budget

Despite their basic construction and low price tag, the Stans No Tubes alloy valves allowed me to inflate the tyre through the valve, which is always a welcome occurrence and 50% of the valve's job.

They are light on extra features and added value, but at the price, they certainly do the job. Although the locknut is nicely made and the alloy construction keeps the weight down, the black plastic cap looks cheap, especially against the red valves - I'm sure it would have been less obvious with black valves.

With only one egress point for air inside the tyre, the Stans valves won't play nicely with inserts and experience says that they will be more prone to clogging than valves with more ports (although this hasn't happened to them yet to be fair).

They do cost less than half of some of the options tested though, so are an excellent option for anyone on a budget.

Best basic

At the more basic end of the spectrum, Tubolight's valves only have standard plastic caps and don't include any extra gadgets. They do have a nice, large locknut though that is easy to grip and also includes 11mm flat sections in case a spanner is required at times.

I couldn't get the tubeless tyres to pop onto the rim through the valve core, although once removed, the Airshot quickly did its job. As well as the main hole, the valve has smaller side ports to help prevent clogging and so that it works with tyre inserts (Tubolight's main product line). The conical rubber stopper formed a good seal with the rim, and no leakage was apparent. Perfectly adequate, but you might have to work a little harder to inflate your tyres and expect to have to clean sealant out of the valve occasionally to keep them in good condition.

Advice

How we test

Tubeless valves have a couple of jobs to do; allow the tyre to be inflated rapidly enough to pop onto the rim and then hold the air whilst in use. The latter is a simple job, but the former seems to be less straightforward with some of the valves allowing air to be dumped from the Airshot through the valve whilst others needed the valve core to be removed which adds extra steps and complications.

The scores given take this into account along with any extra features on offer and general quality/bling factor.

Between busy lives and the unpredictable nature of the weather, espcially here in the Northern Hemisphere, there are strong arguments for bringing your cycling indoors. One of the best ways to do this is with the best indoor smart bikes.

Smart bikes offer more dedicated tools, and if you have the space or possibly don't own a bike, something that is always set up and ready to ride, unlike the best smart indoor trainers. The best indoor smart bikes also offer a far more realistic riding experience and superior ergonomics and overall cycling experience than the best exercise bikes. Add the ability to connect seamlessly with a variety of indoor training apps and your choice of the best bike computers, and you have an immersive training experience that provides a wealth of real-time data to allow you to track your progress and improve your fitness.

In recent years, bikes like the Zwift Ride have elevated the experience by allowing you to control your avatar and incorporating video game features to break the monotony of indoor cycling. However, the Wattbike Atom still tops the list, ticking almost every box. Now in its 3rd generation, we have yet again awarded it the full 5-star treatment.

Best Indoor Smart Bikes

The best indoor smart bikes 2026: Our top-rated

Best overall indoor smart bike

The Wattbike Atom has worryingly and rightfully so, a bit part of my life. To date, I have spent exactly, 39 days, two hours and 16 minutes aboard on of these machines, aimlessly pedalling away and going nowhere. I am not sure who that reflects on more, Wattbike, for just how got it is, or on me for just being a bit doolally.

So... why do I keep giving it 5 Stars? Now in its third-generation, the overall ride experience of the Atom is second to none and keeps getting better with every update. Even if they still haven't added a click to the shifter for a more 'positive' shifting feel, they have however, at least made it more tactile. My only moan, over.

Otherwise the Gen 3 sees some big updates, the tool free adjustment will be welcomed by those who do need to store the bike away or for those where more then one member in the house uses the bike. Alongside this the Atom now tops out at a whopping 2500 watts, which is fine and maybe even a target if your name is Matt Richardson, for mere mortals like myself that's plenty.

The best way to get a feel for any indoor smart bike experience is to get on Zwift and get racing. The almost jerky nature of riding in a bunch, surging speed, following attacks and sprinting, quickly tells you how responsive the bike is and well it reacts to a number of different scenarios. Yet again I can't fault the Atom, its incredible fluid, quick to change and near flawless.

• Read our full Wattbike Atom indoor smart bike review

Best budget indoor smart bike

The Zwift Ride is an interesting offering. Designed to make smart training more accessible, it’s essentially a steel frame that can be paired with a smart trainer. We reviewed it as part of a package with the Wahoo Kickr Core.

Greater accessibility may start with the reduced costs of the Ride compared to some smart trainers, but also extends to the ease of set-up. We found that dialling in the basic fit was a breeze with Zwift’s ‘sizing by letter’ system, meaning you’re able to adjust the bike pretty quickly, making it a good fit for a household of multiple users.

Once set up, you have access to plenty of Zwift tech, from its straightforward cog system, a single sprocket hub that facilitates virtual shifting and means you don’t need a cassette. We found that in combination with the Kickr Core, it delivered excellent shifting and a surprisingly quiet operation. The shifter buttons continue the theme of accessibility, and we found them intuitive to use.

• Read our full Zwift Ride with Wahoo Kickr Core review

Smoothest indoor smart bike

The headliner here is the smooth ride that the Neo Plus delivers. It uses Neodymium magnets to create resistance within the flywheel and we can attest that it works like a dream. It’s comfortably one of the smoothest smart bikes we’ve ever tested, most apparent when we were using Zwift, with the precision of the ERG mode impressing us greatly. The accuracy of the power meter proved to be spot on as well.

But the features don’t stop there. The range of adjustments are impressive and allowed us to really dial in the fit with ease. There’s also an inbuilt fan as well as holder for your tablet as with the previous model, but the shifters have been completely redesigned. We found that both their functionality and comfort have been improved, something that couldn't be said for the last Neo Plus offering. There’s also a slimmer seat post and an increased range of crank length options. It all adds up to a worthwhile upgrade.

• Read our full Tacx Neo Bike Plus review

Best for multiple users

Like the Atom featured above, the Proton is a weighty number. In fact, at 48kg, it’s one of the most robust bikes in this guide. Fortunately, it comes with wheels fitted to make it easier to move around, but it's probably best suited for those who have a dedicated training room where the bike can stay put.

As far as set-up goes, the Proton is wonderfully simple. Adjustment is tool-free, and we were able to position the saddle and bars correctly in seconds. If you plan on sharing your smart bike with other users, it’s a real bonus. Getting started on the Proton is just as straightforward, too, thanks to the free hub, which means you don’t have to have a third-party subscription to an app such as Zwift.

While the Proton is a more affordable offering from Wattbike, you still get plenty of value for your money. The gradient simulation at 25% and peak power of 1800W are both comparable to the other models featured in this guide. We also found it to be highly accurate, as well, again comparable to far more expensive machines.

• Read our full Wattbike Proton smart bike review

Best for realism

An initial look at the Muov smart bike, and it might look excessive, especially given its overall RRP of nearly £5000. Carbon fibre frame made in the UK, high levels of adjustable fit and customisable paint to name a few. However, innovation always comes at a cost, and that is what Muov believes it offers: a very new and 'real' experience, unmatched by its competitors.

There is no denying that indoor riding is monotonous; the best training apps have gone a long way toward bringing a bit more fun and realism to indoor training, without a doubt. Performance-wise, the Muov really doesn't offer much more than the Zwift Ride, which is effectively a bike mounted to a Wahoo Kickr Core 2. The video game features and the party piece 'tilt' really elevate the experience. This "gamification" really turns what is a chore for me into a fun and far more engaging experience.

There are also a lot of other nice features, which others offer but not consistently. It's surprisingly stable for a smart bike, and the level fit adjustment is closer to those used by professionals in shops. As I mentioned, there is no hiding from the price; at nearly double the cost of the Wattbike Atom, it's hard to justify over something as good as the Atom is.

• Read our full Muov Bikes Road smart indoor bike review

Best for gradient simulation

If you’re after a realistic ride feel from your smart trainer, then the Kickr won’t disappoint. We loved the physical grade changes, the simulated shifter and the customizable gearing ratios, all of which make the Kickr feel a lot more like your regular road bike. The 5-point fit adjustment doesn’t hurt either.

The real-time gradient changes can simulate climbs up to 20% as well simulating descents of -15%. Both are made possible by the Kickr's ability to tip backwards and forward. As for the gear ratios you can choose from Shimano, Sram or Campagnolo cassette ratios, allowing you to configure the bike to match the gearing on your actual bike(s).

We appreciate the option to be able to add regular components to the Kickr too, meaning you can fit your favoured stem length, saddle or handlebars to make you feel more at home.

• Read our full Wahoo Kickr Bike review

Spec Table

How we test

The Cycling Weekly team has ridden hundreds of virtual kilometres on all the smart bikes featured in this guide. Our reviews and scores are based on a variety of areas, including ease of setup, app connectivity, specification, and usability

All of the smart bikes were tested across multiple sessions. This allows us to find the base and test the bike’'s ability to accurately replicate sessions and data. These findings are then cross-checked against a power meter or other forms of home trainer.

While most of our testing is completed on Zwift, allowing us repeatable reference points, we also check compatibility with other third-party indoor cycling apps where possible.

Perhaps most importantly and although subjective, we try to relay the concept of 'ride feel' - that is what pedalling feels like on the bike during a variety of different efforts. This perhaps more than anything else, dictates how enjoyable it is to use.

If you would like to know more about how the Cycling Weekly team puts the best biking products to the test, why not visit our How We Test page?

How to choose the best indoor smart bike

You may also need...

Aside from a bike to ride there isn't much more needed to get going with indoor smart bike training. If you are going to invest in your setup then here is nine ways to make your indoor cycling experience more enjoyable. My top recommendations from this list are definitely a good fan and finishing with a cake.

Unless you already have a set training plan, maybe one from a coach or team, then one of the many third-party cycling apps is recommended. They are great at keeping the monotony at bay and a great way connect with the wider cycling community.

Last but not least, cycling indoors is hot, even if its freezing outside. Having cycling kit designed specifically for indoor use that helps disperse the additional heat and has high wicking properties, makes indoor cycling a far more comfortable experience.

Frequently asked questions about indoor smart bikes

Everybody knows that better tyres are the easiest, quickest and cheapest way to improve the feel of your best road bike, but is there any real difference between the manufacturers when it comes to their race rubber?

The sister article to this, the Best tubeless road bike endurance tyres buying guide, looked at tyres that were skewed more towards longevity and puncture protection rather than speed and feel. In contrast, these tubeless performance tyres offer less rolling resistance and a more supple ride. However, these tyres still provide a degree of puncture resistance and should last a good few thousand kilometres, making them ideal for use on the best road bikes or for racing. Some brands do make faster tyres than these, but they lack the puncture protection that these have and are typically intended for time trial and/or professional use when the seconds really, really count.

We chose to use 28mm tyres for comparison, as most frames available today have clearance for this size, whether disc or rim brake, but as you will see, there was a reasonable variation in terms of real width as opposed to claimed width.

As well as the tyre’s ride and feel, ease of setup and air retention are also important, as no one wants to constantly re-inflate their tyres. Again, there was a fair variance in the tyres’ performance in this department, as my triceps will attest to - my track pump and arms got a good workout.

For the test, each tyre was inflated using an Airshot at 130psi and then ridden at 60psi, which is my usual pressure for 28mm tyres. I used one of our favourite and best-performing sealants, Muc-off No Puncture Hassle, with around 30ml per tyre, and each tyre was mounted onto my hooked HED Jet Black wheels with an internal width of 21mm.

The quick list

Best tubeless road bike performance tyres

Best overall

The tech

The impressive sounding SpeedCORE and SmartEVO technology take care of the tubeless setup and grip/rolling resistance. The SmartEVO rubber compound borrows motorsport technology in conjunction with Pirelli’s WorlTour riders. It promises durability and all-weather grip. Air retention comes courtesy of SpeedCORE, which uses a layer of airtight material within the tyre to help keep it inflated whilst still being flexible enough for a supple ride.

Three colours, six widths and even a choice of colours for the graphics.

The set-up

Very simple - nudge on with tyre levers, inflate, ride. This also matches my experience with other Pirelli TLR tyres, so I don’t think that this was just luck, Pirelli really seems to have nailed the tubeless thing. Both tyres stayed inflated from the start without any problems.

The ride

There is a good reason that, along with the GP5000S TR, the P Zero Race TLR is so prevalent on the road - the ride is excellent. Vibrations and poor tarmac are muted more noticeably than with the other tyres tested (except the Corsa Pro), yet there is still an encouragingly lively feel to them so you don’t feel that your efforts are being wasted. Weight is a few grams over what is claimed, and at the higher end of the spectrum for these kinds of tyres, but that in no way manifested itself out on the road.

Simon Smythe also tested the Pirelli P Zero Race TLR.

Best value

The tech

The successor to the low-key Fusion 5 Performance, the Blackbird moves the game on significantly for Hutchinson. The Mach 3 rubber and SwiftEasy casing combine to reduce rolling resistance by 10% Hutchinson claims, whilst there is polyamide reinforcement under the tread to prevent pesky punctures. The sidewalls benefit from 3 x 127 TPI with one of these layers replaced by the puncture protection under the tread.

Currently available in limited sizes, but with a choice of black or tan sidewalls.

The set-up

Definitely a game of three halves. Both tyres went onto the wheels without recourse to levers, but they then struggled to hold air for a number of days and I got rather frustrated at finding them flat every morning. However, unlike the Corsa Pros, once my daily pump-and-shake routine finally succeeded, they held air very well indeed. Initial bad luck or poor technique maybe, but with a promised lifespan of over 4,000km at least you won’t have to do it very often. Weight was a smidge under the claimed 290 grams for both tyres.

The ride

The Blackbird was a nice tyre to ride and instilled both a sense of confidence and an urgent feel to every outing. Whilst certainly not as supple as the Vittorias, they were similar to something like the GP5000S TR, which given the tyre’s supposed durability and reasonable price is quite remarkable. Although I tested them at 60psi for a fair comparison, they benefited from an even lower pressure, resulting in a little more compliance without affecting the speed.

Read my full review of the Hutchinson Blackbird Racing Lab TLR

Best air retention

The tech

As part of Goodyear’s ‘Ultra High Performance’ range, the Eagle F1 R gets their premium Dynamic: UHP rubber, with the tyre apparently reducing rolling resistance by 13% compared to the previous Eagle F1. There is a Shield R puncture protection strip under the centre of the tread. The carcass only has a single layer of 120tpi casing underneath the tread to aid suppleness with a double layer around the sides. There is also an additional airtight layer to help with tubeless setup that earns the Eagle F1 R the Tubeless Complete moniker.

Five widths and two colour options cover most bases.

The set-up

The Goodyear Vector 4Seasons Tubeless Complete endurance tyre that I tested recently was a little disappointing on the air retention front, but the Eagle F1 R was pretty impressive. They were a snug fit on the rims, with tyre levers definitely required, but once in place, they held air very well indeed. They only needed topping up every week or so, much like many tube-type tyres and I would have no qualms taking them on a multi-day trip.

The ride

On the road, they felt broadly like the Blackbird and the GP5000S TR. The tyres did a very reasonable job of damping down vibrations and taking the edge off deeper holes in the tarmac, albeit not quite as well as the P Zero Race or the Corsa Pros. At the same time, I liked their rewarding ride and racy feel - they felt right at home on my summer bike whether out on the Sunday club run or exploring some of the smaller Peak District roads on my own.

Best for width

The tech

Continental offer up a bunch of catchy-sounding names for the tech used in the GP5000S TR. BlackChili compound rubber with nanotechnology reduces rolling resistance and increases durability whilst Lazer Grip helps you go around corners quicker. The Vectran Breaker under the tread prevents punctures, and Continental claims that its liquid-crystalline polymer construction is lighter, more flexible and more effective than the usual nylon layer used, and who doesn’t love a bit of liquid-crystalline polymer (whatever that is...)?

All the popular widths are available in either black or tan.

The set-up

This pair of test tyres went onto the rims OK - I needed tyre levers but it wasn’t too much of a fight, and they kind of held air straight away. I say ‘kind of’ because although they popped nicely onto the rim initially, both tyres needed reinflation every day all the way through the test period of over 750km, which was very frustrating. To be fair, I have run a number of pairs of GP5000S TRs and none have been quite as difficult as these, but none have been perfect either. Another tyre to come in under its billed weight.

The ride

On my rims, these measured over 29mm wide, which gave noticeably more volume than most of these tyres. The ride feel is a familiar one with plenty of zip and encouragement to press a bit harder on the pedals and no sense of turgidness, as you’d hope for from one of the most popular performance tyres available. Decent compliance too, although not up to the magic carpet ride of the Corsa Pros - very similar to the Blackbird and Eagle F1 R.

Some more information on the GP5000S TR here.

Best for comfort

The tech

The Vittoria Corsa Pros use a very high 320tpi cotton casing that is seamlessly connected to the Graphene + Silca 2C tread compound. This eliminates a previous issue that some riders had where the rubber separated from the cotton casing. The tread uses different compounds on the centre and the shoulders to minimise rolling resistance whilst still retaining decent durability. There is an anti-puncture strip beneath the centre of the tread.

Good selection of width choices, but only available with Vittoria’s iconic pale sidewalls.

The set-up

Fresh out of the recyclable box, the Corsa Pros felt supple, almost flimsy in the hand and both went onto the rims very easily and popped onto the rim quickly. Unfortunately, it took rather longer to get them to hold air reliably. Even when they held air after a few days of reinflations, they still needed topping up before each ride, ie. every day. Refreshingly, both tyres were lighter than Vittoria claimed.

The ride

Sublime. There is a clear reason why these tyres are popular despite a few drawbacks. The suppleness and feel of them made them a joy to ride that soon pushed tubeless faff to the back of the mind. Anyone who is sceptical about how much a tyre can really improve the feel of a road bike should have a ride of these. The new construction has hopefully banished delamination issues, so longevity should be less of a concern, but they are still an expensive, high-performance and slightly temperamental tyre so perhaps best left to the sunniest days and most important races.

Read Andy Turner's full review

Best for size options

The tech

Addix Race is Schwalbe’s performance rubber compound, which is used in various guises across its range of road and off-road tyres. On the Pro One TLE, there is a 14mm wide V-Guard puncture protection strip that sits beneath the tread, covering the area most likely to be in contact with the road. The tyre’s construction comes under their Souplesse Carcus Construction moniker, which essentially says that it provides a supple ride. There are 3 layers within the sidewall, but only 2 under the tread, much like the Blackbird.

Two colour choices and widths between 25mm and 38mm should cater for every rider.

The set-up

These were a little tough to get onto the rims, but I didn’t need to resort to my tyre pliers, and the trade-off was near-perfect air retention right from the off. They held air reliably even without sealant and have continued to do so over the course of hundreds of kilometres.

The ride

It feels like the Pro One TLE has been around for quite a while, and whilst Schwalbe seems to have the tubeless thing nailed, I think that the ride perhaps exposed the tyre’s age. The Pro One TLE didn’t offer quite the same level of vibration muting that the best of the test tyres did. It was not bad by any means, but pock-marked tarmac and rough roads could be felt more than with the P Zero Race for instance. With a measured width of 29mm, I was hoping for a little more suppleness, although they did improve with the pressure dropped down to 50psi. On the other hand, there was no lack of speed available, and for shorter rides, I enjoyed their friskiness.

Summary

Whereas the endurance tyres that I tested had a fairly broad range of qualities, with some concentrating on speed and others on durability, these performance tyres were much closer together in terms of their focus.

They all aim to provide a balance between grip, rolling resistance, longevity, puncture proofing and comfort, and by and large, they all succeed. However, there are some clear differences between them both in terms of ride quality and ease of tubeless setup.

I didn’t experience any punctures (that I am aware of) with any of these tyres, and nor did I feel that I was worried about grip levels in either the wet or the dry.

I’d happily ride the Schwalbe Pro One TLE, but I think that in this company it loses out a little in terms of ride feel, although its air retention was impressive and trouble-free. It is also one of the more expensive models at RRP. Next up, the GP5000 S TR and the Corsa Pro - both are lovely tyres to ride and both are justifiably popular choices. However, this is a tubeless performance tyre test and these two tyres gave the most problems in tubeless terms; simply put I wouldn’t have wanted to venture too far away from a pump when riding either of these tyres. Of course, your experience may differ and neither would be a bad choice at all, but perhaps be prepared to put some effort into getting the airtight seal sorted. Again, bear in mind that the RRPs of these tyres are right at the top end.

I think that both the Hutchinson Blackbird and Goodyear Eagle F1 R deserve to do very well. Not only do they ride nicely, but they are relatively good value; you could buy three Blackbirds for the price of two Corsa Pros. Furthermore, the Blackbird promises excellent longevity and the Eagle F1 R performed extremely well in terms of tubeless setup.

Which just leaves the Pirelli P Zero Race TLR to take the top spot. Not only is it fast and enjoyable to ride, but it holds air very well, is easy to mount and is mid-pack in terms of price. Its only real downside is that it is a few tens of grams heavier than some of the other choices, but this is a price that I’d happily pay for its all-round performance.

It is worth bearing in mind that tyres are often available at reduced prices, so it is well worth looking out for bargains on any of these tyres, as all are worthy of consideration.

Advice

How we test

This test was pretty long and involved, with six different sets of tyres mounted, and inflated, and more than 4,000km ridden. Whilst elements like ride feel and 'speed' are subjective, the tyres were all ridden on similar roads at the same pressure to get a reasonable comparison. Ease of tubeless set up of these particular tyres is a little more objective, and it was interesting that broadly each pair of tyres performed very similarly in this respect, albeit still with only a sample size of two.

As a road cyclist you’re used to being sold products that are lighter and more aerodynamic, with improved speed the goal. In the past, endurance tyres promised neither. Often used for winter riding they have traditionally sacrificed weight, speed and comfort in the pursuit of greater durability; heavier compounds and thicker sidewalls are adept at keeping punctures at bay and adding longevity to the tyre in general but are also heavier and less supple.

However, the best tubeless endurance tyres aim to buck this trend. While they don’t promise to compete with the best tubeless road bike performance tyres when it comes to rolling resistance and suppleness, improved technology does make them a far more attractive proposition than ever before. While they still boast extra layers of rubber and tough protection strips, which combine with tubeless sealant to guard against potholes and debris, they are now generally lighter and more sprightly than previous incarnations.

To help you find the right tubeless endurance tyre for you, we’ve selected our favourites, all chosen after many miles of testing. We also have a dedicated guide to winter tyres for road cycling as well as on for the best TPU inner tubes, should you prefer to eschew a tubeless set-up for something more traditional.

The quick list

Our pick of the best tubeless endurance road bike tyres

Best overall

The tech

The One Tubeless uses Schwalbe’s RaceGuard puncture protection. This sits bang in the middle of their protection rating system with a 4/7. There is a double layer of tough Nylon fabric that sits beneath the 67 tpi carcass to prevent anything from puncturing the air chamber, in addition to the protection provided by the MicroSkin. Although the MicroSkin’s primary function is air retention to aid tubeless set-up, Schwalbe claims that it also adds a level of cut and puncture resistance across the whole carcass of the tyre.

A good range of widths is available, from 25mm to 32mm, and a choice of three colours. The test tyres were a fetching bronze colour which looked particularly smart on my green winter bike.

The set-up

Both tyres were simple to fit and popped up onto the rim instantly, holding air straightaway. In fact, I didn’t have to top these up at all for the duration of the test so they get a lot of brownie points for ease of inflation - the constant topping up needed by some tubeless tyres is a big downside.

The ride

The One Tubeless were one of the widest tyres on test. Despite their nominal 28mm width and my relatively narrow 17mm internal width rims, they measured 29.5mm once inflated to 60 psi. They looked noticeably wide on the bike, and as you’d expected, provided a nicely cushioned ride and plenty of confidence - I even let a little air out after a few rides and at 50psi they were even better with seemingly no detriment to speed. They perhaps lacked the ultimate zip of the GP5000s, maybe not surprising given their size, but they rolled along beautifully with the kind of plush feel that you’d expect, providing good isolation from the plentiful road imperfections that are commonplace on my local roads.

These were my joint favourite tyres, and I didn’t want to take them off the bike when it was time to swap them over.

Best for speed

The tech

An addition to the popular GP5000 range, the AS TR (All-Season Tubeless-Ready) is a beefed-up version of the high-performance GP5000 S TR, suitable for year-round use. The rubber is a little thicker and the familiar tread pattern slightly deeper for better wet-weather grip. There is an extra layer of 110tpi fabric used in the construction too. Puncture protection is in the form of Continental’s Vectran Breaker, a ‘synthetically manufactured high-tech fibre’ that they claim is tougher, lighter and more flexible than the nylon layer used by many tyre brands.

Uniquely in this test, the black GP5000 AS TR has reflective sidewalls for extra visibility when traffic approaches from the side (although this is an option on the Cinturato too). The cream version doesn’t get this. The lack of a 30mm option might be an issue for some.

The set-up

The GP5000 S TR is my usual summer tyre, but I have always found them pretty tight to mount, so I wasn’t looking forward to fitting a burlier version. However, a bit of deft tyre lever work and a blast from the Airshot had them popping and cracking onto the rim fairly easily; with 60psi in them, they matched their sidewall markings and measured the full 28mm. The sealant did its job and the tyres held air overnight, ready to be ridden, but did require top-ups every few days or so.

The ride

These tyres felt the quickest. There wasn’t any suggestion that the tyres were holding me back on the club run despite their extra protection and I would happily ride these all year round I think. The ride wasn’t quite as supple as the Ones or the Cinturatos perhaps, but they had a sprightliness that the others lacked; it may well be the extra reflective section that stiffened up the sidewalls ever so slightly, but the BlackChili rubber felt great both in terms of grip and speed whilst the Vectran breaker certainly didn’t seem to make the tyres feel turgid or dead.

Read Paul Norman's separate review here.

Best for ease of fitting

The tech

The Velo is part of Pirelli’s second-tier Cinturato range which is less race-orientated than their P Zero offerings, but should still provide good performance with some additional durability. Armour Tech combines a kevlar under-tread strip with a layer of puncture-resistant material that runs from bead to bead whilst the SmartNET Silica rubber promises wet-weather grip and enhanced mileage. Pirelli has made the sipes on the tyre deeper than usual to help clear water and proved better grip in marginal conditions. There is no 30mm option, although there is a 35mm and there are three colour choices including a commuter-friendly reflective version.

The set-up

The only tyres to go on without tyre levers, so I was a little concerned that this looseness might cause tubeless issues, but they went up and stayed inflated with no drama whatsoever. If all tubeless road tyres were this easy I’m sure that there would be many more converts. They inflated to a comforting 29.5mm with a nice round profile.

The ride

At the heavier end of the spectrum, the Cinturato Velos have plenty of rubber depth and a good width, but on the road this weight was well hidden and they rolled along nicely. The ride was supple, despite the lowly tpi count and copious rubber, helped no doubt by the added volume on offer. I never felt that they were lacking in grip even though they haven’t done a single dry mile during the test period. I think that on a wider rim and with lower pressures they’d be even better.

Stefan Abram has reviewed the 32mm version of the Cinturato Velo.

Best for durability

The tech

The tyre uses Hutchinson’s MachTread 3.0 compound in the centre with its SafeTread compound featured on the shoulders for improved grip in cold and wet conditions. As for the tread pattern, it’s best described as lightly textured.

The tyres are protected from cuts, pinch flats and punctures by a combination of a Polamide layer under the tread and three-ply, 127 tpi reinforced GridSkin sidewalls.

The 30mm tyres have a claimed weight of 360g but I measured them at just under this number by around 10g or so.

The set-up

Fitting the Blackbird All-Season tyres to a set of DT Swiss ERC 1600 Spline wheels proved to be a cinch. They went on with minimal use of tyre levers and inflated the first time round with my trusty Airshot.

For the testing period I ran the tyres at 65psi and they held the air well, requiring a weekly top-up, which is typical for a tubeless setup. Paired with the rim’s internal width of 22mm they measured 30.5mm.

The ride

With over 1,000km under their belt the tyre shows little sign of wear, with no visible cuts or damage either. Hutchinson’s suggested lifespan for this model is 6,000km and given their performance so far, which has seen them ridden in a range of conditions including cold, wet and icy, I have little reason to doubt this claim.

While the durable rubber and GridSkin sidewalls have meant I’ve yet to experience a puncture, they have resulted in a ride feel that’s less supple than some other tyres featured here, such as the Continental GP5000 AS TR or Schwalbe One TLE. That said, the fact they’ve remained unscathed despite the miserable conditions they often faced makes them an appealing offering.

Read the full Hutchinson Blackbird All-Season TLR review.

Best value endurance tyre

The tech

There are three strings to the Vector 4Seasons’ bow in terms of technology. The main puncture resistance is provided by the combination of an R:Shield strip under the tread and R:Armor bead-to-bead reinforced anti-cut material. Dynamic:Silica4 rubber offers improved wet weather grip and abrasion resistance whilst keeping rolling resistance to a minimum according to Goodyear and the tread cap is wider for a larger contact patch. The final element is the ‘Tubeless Complete’ liner that improves air retention and adds a further line of defence against punctures. Four widths and two colour options should cater to most riders.

The set-up

Installation was straightforward enough with a couple of tyre levers and a quick blast of the Airshot, but, despite the Tubeless Complete claims, both tyres needed regular top-ups before riding. Not the end of the world, but they did not hold air as well as some of the other tyres on test and it would become a bit tedious on a multi-day trip. On the plus side, both weight and width were pretty much bang on, so on wider rims, they would offer even more volume.

The ride

The Vector 4Seasons absorbed the vibrations and imperfections pretty well, making them comfortable and relaxing on longer rides. I didn’t feel that they quite had the zip or performance of the Schwalbes or Continentals, with a slightly more draggy and less responsive feel but they were by no means bad to ride - unless you rode them back-to-back you wouldn’t notice a difference I’m sure. I had no issues with grip, despite some pretty grim weather conditions and some deliberately severe brake tests.

Best wide endurance road tyre

The tech

Pirelli makes no claims about this being a gravel or all-road tyre and is listed alongside the P-Zero Race 28mm Andy tested back in 2023. Utilising the same SpeedCORE tubeless-ready casing and SmartEVO compound that can be found on many in the Pirelli range.

At 464g/16.3oz on my scales, the P-Zero’s saved me some serious grams compared to the 47mm Specialized Pathfinder Pro’s coming off the bike, but it's certainly not light by road bike or even by ‘fast-gravel’ tyre standards. Once mounted and inflated to 40 psi, the P-Zero Race gives a 39mm measured width on a 25mm internal, hookless Token rim.

The set-up

It is no secret that tyres fit differently depending on their width and the wheel dimensions. Take the direct comparison with Andy when he tested the 28mm; he actually mentions how easy it was to fit the P-Zero. Well, that certainly wasn't my experience.

Honestly, these were one of the hardest tyres I have ever fitted in 15 years of working on bikes. It took all of my years of knowledge and a very healthy dose of sheer brute force, along with two of the chukkiest tyre levers I own (credit to Muc-Off Rim Stixs; hands down the best tyre lever out there).

Once eventually mounted, they did pop up with a track pump, and I never once had any issues, holding air well throughout testing; silver linings and all that.

The ride

Seeking a balance between comfort and control over rolling resistance with the P-Zero was a little tricky out of the gate. Once I settled on a 34psi, I found this mainly worked everywhere, which is ideally what you want. The extra protection and rubber just makes them less compliant; the benefit is that they are so wide and tubeless, you can really drop that pressure without any fear of rolling a tyre or pinch puncture.

While the P-Zero did suprise with its grip and durability even on rough roads and light gravel, mounted on an endurance/older style gravel bike, its road prowess struggled to shine through. They are certainly fast; I don't think that can be denied. However, start to lean them and push through tarmac turns, and you will find the limits, even on a bike that isn't ideally suited to that type of riding.

However, given the options for wide road tyres are still limited and even more expensive than the P-Zero, it is a decent early offering from the Italian brand, just one that needs a light refinement.

How we test

A lot of tyre testing is rather subjective, as aspects like grip, feel, and rolling resistance are very hard to measure objectively. Even more measurable characteristics like puncture resistance, ease of fitting and air retention might vary on any given day, and certainly some tyres and rims work better together than others.

To negate this as much as possible, for the purposes of testing the best endurance road bike tyres, all the tyres were fitted to the same wheels using the same tools with the same sealant, and, notably, it seemed that both tyres in each pair behaved very similarly, so the conclusions should be reasonably representative.

Each tyre was inflated using an Airshot at 130psi and then ridden at 60psi, which is my usual pressure for 28mm tyres. Except for the Pirelli P-Zero TLR 40mm, not only would this have been uncomfortable at 60 psi, but given that it was on a hookless rim, this is close to the maximum pressure allowed by the manufacturer.

I used one of the best tubeless sealants, Muc-Off No Puncture Hassle, with approximately 30ml per tyre. The majority of tyres were mounted onto my trusty Scribe Race-D wheels, which have an internal width of 17mm. It is worth noting that some manufacturers claim their quoted tyre widths are based on wider rims than mine, and therefore will naturally appear a little narrow on my wheels.

Meet our testers

How to choose the best endurance tyres for you?

Tubeless tyre top tips

Despite tubeless tyre fitting sometimes feeling like more of an art than a science, after mounting hundreds of tyres I’d like to think I have a pretty high success rate. Here are my top tips for a painless experience.

1. If you are starting with a new rim and need to fit the tape, make sure it is wrapped very tightly. Keep the tension on as you stick it down and follow the tape manufacturer’s instructions about how much to use.

2. If you are replacing an existing tubeless tyre DON’T clean the rim up too much. A bit of liquid sealant around the edge of the rim will help the tyre pop onto the rim more easily. Do clean up an excess sealant or dried residue though.

3. Don’t forget to check the tyre’s rotation direction before mounting, and ensure that the tyre logo and valve are aligned (if you are that way inclined).

4. Aim to finish mounting the tyre at the valve, and push the valve up into the tyre at the end to make the final stage easier.

5. If the tyre is being stubborn, make sure that the tyre beads are sitting in the rim bed all the way round the wheel to create as much slack as possible.

6. Another tip for difficult tyres is to leave them by a radiator for a while before fitting to make them more supple - a brand new tyre and a cold garage or shed is the hardest combination.

7. After mounting, prise a small gap with a couple of tyre levers to add the sealant, or remove the valve core and add the sealant through the valve. You can skip this step though and add sealant afterwards once good inflation has been achieved if you prefer.

8. Check that the tyre’s beads sit on either side of the valve, not over it, and that the valve is very securely tightened in place for a good seal.

9. Use a tubeless tyre inflator for easier inflation. You can first try it through the valve with the core in place first of all, but if that doesn’t pop the tyre onto the rim then you can remove the valve core and do it that way.

10. Once the tyre has popped into place, if the valve core is in place and the tyre has sealant, add a few more psi to help the sealant find any holes (but don’t exceed rim or tyre limits) and then remove the pump/inflator and spend a few minutes spinning, shaking and generally jiggling the wheel so that the sealant is well spread out through the tyre.

11. If you had to remove the valve core, then add a few more psi and leave the system together with the tyre inflated for a couple of hours to help the tyre settle onto the rim. You should then carefully deflate the tyre with your fingers crossed that it doesn’t pop off the rim, then replace the valve core and inflate with a track pump.

12. Bonus tip - if you are really struggling to get the tyre to pop onto the rim, then start by inflating it with an inner tube. This should stretch the tyre onto the rim and even when you have removed the inner tube, at least one bead will be left in place. This is much better done before any messy sealant has been used though!

Wearing the best headphones for cycling out on the open road is a divisive issue, not just between cyclists and other road users but also amongst ourselves. In this guide, we aim to help navigate this tricky topic by providing useful information and recommendations for a variety of scenarios. Such as how various designs and features can help keep you safe, the sound quality, and even the laws surrounding outside use.

Headphones for cycling will likely need to withstand a range of scenarios, possibly even outside of cycling entirely, since many won't want to own multiple sets. This places significant demands on the best headphones. Fortunately, we are consistently testing the latest offerings, with a number of members of the Cycling Weekly team being self-proclaimed audiophiles.

Our experts' testing takes into account a variety of factors, including sound clarity, how well they stay in place, battery life, performance in the elements, and overall durability. Our testing largely took place indoors, as this is where the majority of the team uses them. We weighed up how they perform while racing aboard some of the best indoor smart trainers. However, we've also included some options suitable for use while riding outdoors, for those who choose to do this, laws allowing, of course!

Once all these considerations are taken into account, our experts rate the Shokz OpenRun Pro bone-conducting headphones not just the best for cycling, but also an excellent choice for everyday use.

Best headphones for cycling - tested and rated by Cycling Weekly

Best Overall

Reviewed by Tom Epton - Tech Contributor

Considered by many as the founder of open ear and bone conduction headphones, Shokz (formally known as Aftershokz) are a household name of this style of headphones, and it has delivered the brand a loyal consumer base.

The standout feature for me is that you can choose between two headphone sizes. This makes the Shokz a better-than-average fit. For someone like me with a small head, I often find that there's often a lot of spare headphone band hanging round the back of my neck. Choosing the 'mini' size, which measures half an inch/ 1.5cm smaller (size guide is here) does away with a lot of the 'bounce' issue or jersey collar Vs headphone clash while on a bike. It also makes laying down recovering with them on a better fit.

The full titanium frame and stripped back design allows the weight to be as low as just 28grams, and a smidgen more for the standard size at 29grams.

Sound-wise, I found the Shokz OpenRun Pro top-notch, which is easier said than done when it comes to bone-conducting headphones. If you're outside and descending a hill at speed, wind rush will overcome the headphones, but from my experience of testing several sets of open ear headphones, Shokz are not alone.

As with the other brands of open ear headphones, there is some guesswork to know exactly when they do require a charge, the app does have a one glace exact percentage gauge, but when switching on or following the correct button pressing sequences, an audible alert will let you know if the battery level is high, medium or low.

If fit and sound quality are the main headphone drivers for your open ear bone conducting headphones, then you won’t be disappointed; however, when compared to others, they seem lacking in additional features. When comparing these with the Suunto Wing headphones, which offer things like an additional power bank, integrated LED lighting and provide a much higher ingress rating than the Shokz’s IP55 one. If it wasn't for the fit options, you'd need to weigh up choosing these over other brands, even at the slightly lower price tag. But there are four colourways, and a robust storage case, a must-have for headphones in my opinion, might seal the deal.

• Read Tom's full Shokz OpenRun Pro bone conducting headphones review

Best for helmet compatibility

Reviewed by Charlotte Broughton - Tech Contributor

While Shokz OpenRun headphones are brilliant, and their bone-conducting tech really does offer fantastic sound for something that is nowhere near your eardrum. They can be on the pricey side, and because of the connecting cable around the back of your neck, they don't always play ball with your helmet. I, for one, have struggled to find a decent set of open-ear headphones that would work with an aero-style helmet. Enter the OpenFits from Shokz.

Initially, I was unsure if the OpenFit wouldn't stay in place, as I had experienced this issue before with some in-ear headphones and even some wired ones I had used in the past. No such problems, and the Openfits were so simple to set up, so I was riding and feeling comfortable straight away.

I was just surprised at how much sound actually reached my ear. Okay, audiophiles will moan about the lack of bass, but you have to remember that while they are much closer than a bone conducting headphone, they aren't actually in your ear. In this way, they work similarly to over-ear headphones, but without the bulky pads and muffs. I used the in-app settings to increase the bass by utilising the bass booster function, which appears to enhance the overall sound.

While the OpenFits are great, I do have a couple of issues. Firstly, the touch controls are hit and miss and largely too sensitive when you don't want them to be, which can be frustrating out on the road. The fact that the case doesn't charge them is also a bit of a miss from Shokz; literally every set of headphones has this function now, at least they are USB-C, I suppose.

• Read Charlotte's full Shokz OpenFit Open Ear headphones review

Best for sound quality

Reviewed by Joe Baker - Tech Contributor

As a musician, I can be particular about sound quality. While I am far from having the best ears, I do like to immerse myself in the sound, regardless of the situation. If I am putting headphones in, I want them to sound good, and, like anyone, I want that at a reasonable price.

Over the last few years, the Bose QuietComfort Ultra Earbuds have become my go-to for a number of reasons, and despite my preference for affordable headphones, the Bose Earbuds are not cheap. However, totally worth it!

Bose's world-class noise cancellation, thanks to their CustomTube tech, creates a little sound bubble for me, whether I am on the train heading into the office, on a plane to a press camp, or just to block out the noise of the turbo trainer. For the occasional time, usually when I am out on a big ride or bikepacking, and using them outdoors, the switch to 'Aware' mode is really simple.

While I am aware we are a cycling publication, the QuietComforts are also great for using in the gym, with sweat, but also just staying in place. Which leads me nicely to their comfort on the bike.

I don't think I am alone in finding proper in-ear headphones tricky to get a good fit, espically at the more affordable end of the spectrum. The customizable fit, as you expect from Bose, but also the higher price, make a big difference. As I already mentioned, they stay snug and secure even during intense efforts.

Last but not least, the quick charge has saved my day on more than one occasion.

Best for handsfree operation

Reviewed by Hannah Bussey - Tech Writer

Squeezing the extra features into the Suunto Wing headphones does mean that they weigh in at the heaviest of the all the open ear headphones on test, but only marginally 33 grams.

I found really straightforward to get started with this pair thanks to the well developed Suunto umbrella fitness app, which made headphone setup a doddle. The easy to follow instructions and toggle buttons meant I had my own listening settings dialled and paired with my phone in just a couple of minutes.

Even with the additional grams in weight, and the inability to choose a smaller size, à la Shokz, the Suunto Wings were still very comfortable, and after a couple of minutes, if it wasn’t for the actual sound, I would have forgotten I was wearing them.

I found the big bonus with these headphones is the hands free control feature. Despite being skeptical at first, it really was as simple nodding or shaking my head to answer or decline a call, or, best of all, the ability to skip a music track. If they allowed me to turn volume up or down it would take these to the next level.

I did find that the sound wasn't as crisp as some of the other headphones on test, notably the Shokz, or the air conducting Oladance OWS Sports headphones. Switching between ‘normal’ and ‘outdoor’ sound control does pump up the jam, improving the ‘distant’ sound quality and making it a little richer, but I found it missed a little depth.

I’ve not tested these up to their claimed 10 hours of playback time, and as with all headphones, it is a bit of a guessing game as to the level of charge. However with the Suunto Wings, not only do you have the usual blast charge, 10minuites on charge provides three hours playback, but you also get a proprietary mini power bank for charging on the fly, giving you an additional 20 hours of charge.

This is a great as standard addition, and would make these my go-to option for bike packing, weekends away or just exceptionally long rides.

Add to this the integrated LED lighting for extra side visibility to other road users as well the high dust and water ingress ratings, means that there’s a lot packed in.

The only down side is that features like these don’t come for free, putting the Suunto Wing headphones into the upper price bracket.

5. Best AirPods for cycling

Reviewed by Andy Turner - Tech Contributor

The question with AirPods is always whether they are better than the previous version. In the case of the Pro 3 versus the AirPod Pro 2's that is a resounding yes. While there are slight downgrades in things like the case's charge time to support the more powerful buds, there are some significant, worthwhile upgrades.

The big upgrade is the noise-cancelling function. Apple claims it is twice as powerful, which I cannot measure, but thanks to the more advanced H2 chip, and from what I am hearing, the increase is noticeable. This has also had an impact on the transparency mode; the improved performance, which can now filter traffic noise from the wind, is a real game-changer for cyclists. Previously, I would actually just ride with one earbud in the left ear and leave the right in the case.

As a serious cyclist and a coach, the latest feature that really impressed me was the integration of a heart rate monitor. When compared to my Wahoo Trackr, it not only provided very comparable numbers, but it is also very good at tracking sudden changes during an explosive effort. Unfortunately, this is currently not a compatible feature with the best bike computers like my Garmin, so it seems somewhat redundant for many cyclists. For those who do use their phone on the bars or maybe an Apple Watch, it avoids the need for a third-party heart rate monitor and builds on the generally very good Apple Ecosystem.

There is one other issue, however; occasionally, the left earbud will produce a loud chirping noise. After a bit of research, this, for some, has been down to the fit of the earbud and 'airtight' seal needed for the ANC (active-noise cancelling). While I set the headphones up using the fit system from Apple, a reduction in bud size has made improvements. This seems to happen more after a long time in the saddle, presumably due to a buildup of moisture. Worth noting that the smaller size did mean, from time to time, the buds then did let in more wind noise, as the seal, I am guessing, isn't as good. Given that I didn't have this issue with the Pro 1 or 2, it's a frustration. Also, it may not be an issue for everyone. I reached out to Apple for comment, but I have yet to hear back.

• Read Andy's full Apple AirPods Pro 3 headphones review

Best Over-Ear Headphones

Reviewed by Andy Carr - Tech Editor

I feel like I need to mention that it is unlikely most will use over-ear headphones out on the road. So, my testing for the H20 RIPT Ultras was solely indoors on one of the best smart bikes I have on test.

The RIPT Ultras are H20s top of the range headphones and feature the brand's immersive Real Isolation Performance Technology noise-cancelling tech. They claim to help athletes like Mathieu Van der Poel warm up without the noise of the crowd and hubbub around them distracting them from their focus. This could equally work for those who have busy family lives or in a gym environment. For me, as someone who lives on his own in the middle of the countryside, this was of no concern, so I was really looking for the sound quality to justify the H20s cost.

Given that there is stiff competition in this market from a number of recognised manufacturers and ones with decades of experience, the H20s hold up well. An Audiophile will pick holes in them, I am certain of that, but a pair of audiophile headphones doesn't offer what the RIPT ultras do. The ability to wear these while active and, more importantly, sweating heavily sets them apart and all while offering a very respectable sound.

What really stood out was how comfortable they are. Over-ear headphones aren't the best sports attire, but the H20s buck the trend, even using exclusively the silicone muffs, which I thought for non-sports use might be a bit much. However, they balance grip and pressure around the head and ears very well.

While the sounds isn't quite where some would want for the price, you have to balance that out with the protection from sweat and being able to use them in more scenarios.

• Read Andy's full H20 Audio RIPT Ultra headphones review

How we test

A large part of testing headphones for cycling here at Cycling Weekly is about their functionality and how they perform in use. While we will comment on whether we think audio quality is poor or very good, we are not conducting a quantitative test with replicable results.

What we are primarily looking for is how they perform on the bike. Testing for things like battery life, resistance to sweat, rain and dust. How well do headphones fit with helmet straps and shells, and which features and functions can enhance our cycling experience? For example, the responsiveness of ANC (active noise-cancellation) modes, or, in the case of the Apple AirPod Pro 3, how the heart rate monitor compares to a more traditional chest-strap system.

This testing will be done both indoors on one of the best indoor smart trainers or one of the best smart bikes. For outdoor testing, this will depend on the IP rating of the headphones; however, our testers will try to test in a wide range of conditions, especially when commenting on ANC function and durability.

For more on 'How we test' all the latest products and how we conduct our reviews, have a read of our more in-depth overview.

Meet our testers

How to choose the best headphones for cycling

For everyday use, owning a pair of wireless in-ear headphones, also known as ear buds, can be a game changer. With no tether to your device, you gain a significant amount of freedom of movement. Apple Airpods Pro lead the charge, but the market is awash with options now. From the masses however, the athlete focused Jaybird Vista 2 really stand out as offering some of the best headphones for cycling, not only with its sport fit, sweat and waterproofing, but also the ability to toggle between sound immersion, ambient sound amplification, as well as options in-between.

If sound immersion is your thing, but 'in-ear' isn't, then 'on-ear' will be an ideal pair of headphones for cycling for you. If you have traditionally been put off by the thought of the heavy weight and keeping them clean, then the Adidas RPT-01 Sport On-Ear are ideal headphones for cycling as they feature stay-put ergonomics, sweat-proof and water-resistance design, with washable parts, built for sweaty workouts.

The biggest benefit is that bone conducting headphones leave your ear canal open, helping you to maintain your spatial awareness as well as remaining aware of ambient noises. However, this does mean that there is no noise cancelling/ sound immersion option for someone wanting to completely dial in to their ride.

The down side is that in order to sit in the exact location to transmit the vibrations, they come with a somewhat rigid structure. So although they are considered one of the ideal headphones for cycling outside, there can be helmet interference with the fit.

There are a lot of varieties on the market, with some offering one-touch sound amplification, meaning you don't have to remove the headphones to have an in-person conversation. Built-in mics also mean that it's possible to pair with a device for a call or Discord chat.

However with their size comes the obvious interference with helmets, and therefore they are far from idea to use outside. The other issue that most riders note is the heat build up, so it's important if you do opt for on-ear headphones that you choose a sports specific option, which will aim to be more breathable, sweat resistant and have washable pads.

Designed to be more robust, lighter, and to offer no drop in performance compared to traditional butyl/latex and tubeless setups, the best TPU inner tubes seem to offer it all. I have also noticed a trend among those becoming fed up with tubeless, whether it be compatibility issues, the mess or trouble with air loss, making them rethink their options.

This also comes at a time when we know that most road cyclists still aren't riding tubeless, making TPU tubes the most likely 'other' options.

So, I wanted to put them to the test. I chose six TPU (Thermoplastic Polyurethane) inner tubes from leading tube and tyre brands and scored them on durability, puncture resistance, repairability, and, of course, performance versus the best tubeless tyres.

Throughout testing, the best TPU inner tubes surprised me with their performance, durability, and puncture resistance. Of the six, I have awarded the best overall to the Vittoria Ultra Light Speed for the best balance of these attributes, along with a reasonable price. It is worth noting that the Revoloop tubes came very close, and it was a tough pick.

Ridden, punctured & rated - Six of the best TPU inner tubes

Best Overall

Vittoria claims its Ultra Light Speed TPU inner tubes reduce rolling resistance by 14% and weight by 70%. At just 30 grams/1 ounce, they are certainly light, only beaten by the Tubolito S-Road in that regard.

While I can't verify Vittoria's 14% claim, the Ultra Light Speed and Revoloop tubes really impressed me with their super-low rolling resistance, giving me the feeling of bolting on some ultra-lightweight, expensive climbing wheels.

The supple nature of the material, combined with a lightweight tyre, makes you feel like you are floating on a cloud, the closest sensation to a Tubular setup I have come across from a tyre and tube.

Frustratingly, the Vittoria is only available in one size and at £30/ $38 is in the upper tier price point. As road tyres are only getting wider, I am concerned that these 25-30c-sized tubes are a little behind the competition.

However, the Ultra Light Speeds are repairable, and the reinforcing and protection around the valve are reassuring.

Most Durable

The Revoloop REVO.RACE ULTRA almost has it all: It's light, at just 26 grams/0.9oz, and its ride quality is superb and certainly on par with that of much more costly systems like tubular.

Neat touches like a removable, reinforced thermoplastic valve are welcome additions over the others on test. It even feels the most robust when compared to all the other brands I have tested, including the Vittoria, which has a similar construction. Good to know if you have to fix a puncture or patch the tube.

Despite puncturing the gravel version of this tube while trying to seat a tubeless tyre, it only went once it had hit the 120psi mark, well above its recommended maximum pressure. I would recommend reading all about how to demystify tyre pressures before trying this at home, but it's a good demonstration of its overall durability.

While Revoloop does offer a greater variety of sizes in the Revo Ultra range, and it's even cheaper at around £28/$37, I ultimately had to decide between it and the Vittoria for the best overall, and that decision favoured Vittoria. This is really for one primary reason: Vittoria is a well-known entity among those who ride bikes; you’ve likely ridden or owned their tyres. They receive substantial support online and from brick-and-mortar retailers, making it more likely you can find a replacement, get service for any failures, or pick up some patches.

Best value

While the Aerothan tubes from Schwalbe don't stand out on the spec sheet as anything special, they do offer a pretty reasonable all-around package. They are not the lightest, but certainly not the heaviest, and they are not the fastest, but certainly not the slowest. You get where I am going with this.

One thing is for sure: the Schwalbes were very easy to install, a big win if you do happen to puncture on a ride. The texture of the Aerothan tubes somehow helps locate the tube nicely, allowing the tyre to slip past it and pop into place. This could make them a great spare tube for roadside changes.

As I mentioned, while it is on the heavier side, this could be thanks to a much more reinforced valve stem. This is a common issue with all TPU inner tubes, and Schwalbe has clearly looked to tackle it. They have even added a decent amount of shaping to ensure it's a good fit.

If that wasn't enough, they are also one of the cheapest too at around the £16/ $32 a tube price mark.

Best for Gravel

Aside from the signature yellow Pirelli colourway, everything about the Cinturato Smartube looks identical to the road version of the Tubolito; they even originate from the same place.

What seems to differ, though, is the weight and price. Pirelli has clearly chosen a more robust construction, which, in reality, means it is a thicker material. That's not a bad thing; while the narrower options don't quite match the Tubolite, Vittoria, and Revoloop tubes for ride quality, they are ideal for gravel, where durability is as important as suppleness. You could choose the Pzero version in the range and get a weight drop, but then the cost becomes the limiting factor. But as we know it's not just weight or aero that is important when riding gravel.

It's worth noting that unless you can find a deal, you're probably looking in the region of £27/ $38 a tube for the regular version and £35/ $40+ for the PZero one.

That only covers the Cinturato versions of the SmarTube. Once you swap to the PZero SmarTube, the weights drop, and the suppleness seems to return to a similar level to the S-Tubo.

Pirelli arguably offers the broadest range of TPU inner tubes with no less than six different versions, depending on your requirements. So, if what we have reviewed here doesn't suit your needs, they offer lighter and even MTB sizes, which is a good to know for some gravel set ups.

Best for ride feel

Being the lightest on test and one of the cheapest at around £29.99/ $32 —at least in the road version—has a significant impact on the ride. The Tubolito truly offers an extraordinary feel, giving the tyre a lovely softness that is hard to find in many tubeless setups. It also made me feel as if I were flying, the whole time thinking I must be with the wind, but I wasn't.

I wasn't as taken with the CX/Gravel version, as these are significantly heavier, which, while I am certain this adds more durability, seems to defeat the purpose of a TPU inner tube. The Pirelli would be the better option here.

The valve stem is a little vulnerable. Despite my best efforts to mitigate wobbling whilst pumping, it seemed my efforts were in vain, and I consequently broke it off, leading me to reach for a good old Butyl tube. Probably best to plump for one of the best electric bike pumps to prevent a similar mishap.

Most reinforced valve

The similarities to the Schwalbe are hard to ignore. Although the NXT tubes don't offer a headline attribute, they didn't cause me any issues. What they do offer, though, is a considerably lower cost at less than £25/ $27, making these at least £5/ $10 cheaper than the Vittoria Ultra Light.

This does mean the Barbieri is still almost double that of a latex tubes, but with the ability to patch, it is significantly more durable and therefore arguably more sustainable than a one-and-done option.

One thing that stands out about the NXT tube is the valve reinforcement and shaping. Again, this could make it ideal as a spare tube, and considering its even lower cost than the Schwalbe, it might be worth the punt.

Also tested

Methodology - How I tested

My testing was conducted solely on 35mm/1.3" tyres, fitted to an all-road/endurance road bike. I felt this was a good way of covering all the bases. At this size, I could fit thicker, more 'gravel' focused tubes, and given that road is creeping up to 30/32mm, I could comment easily on ride feel and suppleness without having to factor in different tyre qualities.

A large part of my testing involved musing on the more subjective qualities of TPU inner tubes whilst covering a significant distance. This doesn't mean I didn't conduct quantitative testing; it was more about establishing a baseline and gathering comparative data to inform my overall opinions, rather than relying on hard factual references. This is mainly because real-world testing conditions are challenging to replicate consistently, and with a lack of accessible lab-condition facilities, more people will find those real-world experiences more relatable in this scenario.

One data set, and the most considerable number-crunching I did throughout testing, involved constant experimentation with tyre pressure. Due to the different tube thicknesses, they all performed better at quite different pressure levels, for better or worse. I began by checking the Wolf Tooth Tyre Calculator suggested values and comparing them to my previous results with latex tubes before making any adjustments.

Meet the tester

Verdict

The Vittora won the ‘best TPU overall’ title, as it scores highly across a wide range of categories, including weight, ride feel, and durability. It is one of the pricier options, but it genuinely feels like a good alternative to going fully tubeless, thanks to its superior ride quality.

However, it's important to remember that it's 'horses for courses' with TPU inner tubes. You might find that opting for the Revoloop Ultra for the best durability, or the Pirelli Cinturato Smartube, with its multiple widths and valve lengths, is a much better option for your riding, especially given that they are all around the £27–£30/$36–$38 price point.

If cost is your most significant driver, then the Schwalbe Aerothan can't be beaten at around half the price of the others, and it still offers durability, a choice of widths, and valve lengths, making it hard to beat on value.

Taking a much broader view on the overall value of TPU inner tubes versus the much cheaper regular butyl ones, there is no denying that you have to put your hand in your pocket. However, the ride quality on some of the best in this guide is as close to riding a tubular set-up as you can get, which, at knocking on £100 a pop, makes even the top-end options look like a total bargain!

How to choose the best TPU inner tube

It is worth firstly understanding the what the different types of tube are, and how they can work for you.

1. Butyl is the most common type and has been used on bicycles for decades. These are standard black synthetic rubber tubes that are easy to patch and inexpensive to manufacture and purchase. Price: $5-15/£4-10
2. Latex: Technically made of natural rubber, these are lighter and more flexible (and thus have less rolling resistance) than butyl tubes, but do not retain air as well. They are also more expensive and harder to repair. This is the type of tube found inside tubular tyres. Price: $15-25/£12-20
3. TPU: Short for thermoplastic polyurethane (a type of plastic), this is the newest tube type. They can be made extremely lightweight and compact or thick and durable. They can be recycled at the end of their service life and have lower rolling resistance than butyl tubes. They are, however, more expensive and can be hard to repair. Price: $20-40/£30

Frequently asked questions about TPU inner tubes

Let's get straight to the point: You absolutely don't need the best indoor cycling shoes to cycle indoors. However, with the growth of indoor cycling and racing, along with the popularity of platforms like Peloton, the demand for indoor riding kit has increased significantly.

When paired with the best indoor cycling clothing, indoor cycling footwear can significantly improve heat management. The dispersion or wicking of sweat is one of the biggest challenges to overcome. Owning clothing, and in this case, specific shoes that help ventilate, wick away sweat, and generally keep you cooler, can have a significant impact on performance.

The best shoes for Peloton also need to be gentle on expensive floors, whether it's your parquet at home or at the gym. Given you won't be walking around in them much, they are naturally less need for comfort and compliance, making them more difficult to walk in. This is why many feature soft rubber soles or buffers.

Shoes like our best overall, the Shimano SH-IC501, embody all of these attributes, which is why it has been awarded our highest honour.

You don't need one of the best exercise bikes or a gym membership to enjoy indoor cycling. You can get started with your bike and one of the best smart trainers linked to one of the best indoor training apps.

The quick list

Best indoor cycling shoes 2026 as tested by Cycling Weekly experts

Best overall indoor cycling shoes

Reviewed by Rachel Sokal - Tech Contributor

The Shimano SH-IC501 is an indoor shoe with a two-bolt cleat, ideal for gravel or MTB riders who use this system or those who want the additional comfort of using a SPD cleat on the gym spin bike or their own Peloton.

Of all the indoor shoes I've tested, the Shimano IC501 was the most slipper-like: lightweight and comfortable with a grippy and flexible sole. The anti-odor fabric was a blessing to the contents of my gym bag after particularly sweaty workouts. Available in a large range of sizes as well as both men’s and women’s fits, I personally found these close to a perfect fit, proving exceptionally comfortable when on and riding.

The flexible fabric sock-like upper with a single crisscross Velcro strap makes it easy to put on. The grippy rubber flexible sole and recessed metal cleat are great for walking and, therefore, ideal for a gym bike option.

On the downside, the flex did mean that I didn't get the greatest power transfer to the pedals; this will matter more to some than others, notably cyclists who are diligently measuring the watts or keen on e-racing. There’s also a risk that the combination of the less rigid sole and smaller cleat (compared to a three-bolt road cleat) could cause discomfort during longer sessions. I found this started to creep in on longer sessions of more than two hours.

For those using road pedals, Shimano don’t have an equivalent three-bolt shoe although many of the features of the IC501 also appear on the cheaper IC100 which has both two and three-bolt fittings.

Best for performance in the gym

Reviewed by Simon Fellows - Previous Tech Editor & Contributor

The Fizik Vento Powerstrap Aeroweave is an exceptional shoe; it is light, extremely stiff, and highly breathable. During my testing, which was largely through one of the hottest Summers here in the UK on record, it was a delight. However, the Vento's are so good, anything below 20°C or 68°F, and I started to feel the chill. Now, some of that is me; I feel the cold quite badly, but still, that is still reasonably balmy for much of Northern Europe.

So, how do you justify the price of these incredible shoes?

Simple, I think. They could also make for an excellent winter cycling shoe. Now that might sound odd when you consider that we sometimes get a dusting of snow here in the UK. However, given the popularity of cycling indoors, the Vento could become a year-round shoe if you're serious about your 'Zwifiting'.

As you would expect from a shoe that is upwards of £300/$400, they are incredibly comfortable and, in my opinion, completely justify the price tag. However, I absolutely can get use out of them year-round and my primary shoes. For those who live in warmer climes, they should be at the top of your list, too. However, if you don't ride indoors and winters are cold, you might want to look elsewhere.

Read our full Fizik Vento Powerstrap Aeroweave cycling shoe review

Best for budget

Reviewed by Rachel Sokal - Tech Contributor

The 100 isn’t an indoor-specific shoe but it is very well priced and allows riders to choose between cleat systems (two or three bolt), so a great option for those new to cycling shoes or those who don’t want to spend a lot for a shoe they use once a week at the gym.

On the bike, the Van Rysel shoes perform well. They're not the stiffest shoes out there, but they did a perfectly good job transferring my effort to the pedal without any notable hotspots. The three basic Velcro straps give plenty of adjustment, although if you have narrow feet, like me, you might find it harder to get a good fit compared to a more expensive BOA dial fastening.

The sole doesn’t offer much grip when walking, so they’re best put on next to the bike. This is particularly the case if you use a bare-metal two-bolt cleat as the mount isn’t recessed in the sole’s grips as it would be on a two-bolt specific shoe.

When set up for a three-bolt cleat, we found it can overhang the edges of the sole when mounted further back. It's not a big problem for riding indoors, but if you start to use them for riding outdoors, it could become a shelf for muck and grime.

Best for style

Reviewed by Rachel Sokal - Tech Contributor

The Adidas Indoor Shoe is a bit different from the other dedicated indoor shoes in our guide. It’s scaled down, sleek, and stylish without any extra cushioning, tabs, or other bells and whistles, although, depending on your colourway of choice, the vibrancy of the shoes does all the talking.

Designed for a three-bolt cleat, these clearly have a more road-to-indoor cycling crossover. Once my foot was on the pedals, the Adidas felt the closest riding in road shoes. The sole was stiff, and I really appreciated the large cleat optimising power transfer. Although, if you’re new to cycling shoes, you might be surprised by the lack of padding.

Because there’s just a single Velcro strap, the fit is less adjustable than in other indoor cycling shoes I've tested. Even with the built-in heel grips, slimmer heels can lift out (more so when walking off the bike). I also noticed where the strap lay across my foot, making me feel uncomfortable after a while if it was really pulled in tight.

The stiff sole and prominent cleat make The Indoor Shoe difficult to walk in, and you definitely won't be able to cross-train in them. These shoes prioritise pedalling performance above gym cross-over.

Best for inside and out

Reviewed by Rachel Sokal - Tech Contributor

In 2021, we reviewed the Torch 1.0 as an outdoor shoe and found it to be an excellent performer for its price.

Given that this was the highest-specced road-specific shoe in our indoor guide, it should come as no surprise that these performed the best on the bike. The stiff sole provides excellent power transfer. I found them comfortable during longer endurance sessions and really felt the power transfer during intense bursts.

I found the upper of the shoes to be one of the most comfortable, with an excellent closure. I felt my foot held firmly but without any hot spots. However, be aware that some might find the toe box on the Torch 1.0 quite roomy, and it's hard to pull the lower Velcro closure tight enough for my narrow feet. Having said that, the main BOA closure does such a good job that it didn't leave my foot moving around excessively.

Whilst the sole isn’t rubberised to the same degree that a dedicated indoor shoe is, there’s a decent amount of grip from the heel material. Combined with the slight flex in the sole, I was able to walk short distances across hard and shiny gym floors without looking like Bambi.

Even when wearing them exclusively indoors. I found that the white upper marked up easily, with the pimply texture catching the dirt and being harder to wipe clean, so it might be worth considering other colours if you like the box fresh look all the time.

How we test the best indoor cycling shoes

Testing the best indoor cycling shoes is not all that different from testing the best cycling shoes or best gravel shoes.

The initial step in any shoe test is to evaluate the fit, which includes cleat setup and depends on the tester's foot type. To ensure comprehensive coverage, we have a diverse group of testers with varying foot dimensions, allowing us to gather the most accurate assessment of a shoe for large, small, narrow, and wide feet.

As with a product we have on test here at Cycling Weekly, we then need to invest time in the product. For Indoor cycling shoes, we need to choose the best smart trainer or wheel, or opt for the best smart bike, and put in some static miles.

Testing shoes indoors is simpler than doing so outside because these bikes and devices are equipped with built-in power meters that provide live data during or after a ride, making them ideal for evaluating a shoe's overall performance. For indoor shoes, the primary focus is on power transfer. While comfort and compliance are still important, they are less critical since you'll likely wear the shoes for no more than an hour, and weather and terrain are not factors.

If anything, what is more important than comfort and something we really would only do with gravel shoes is walk around in the shoes on a variety of surfaces. Firstly, we don't want to be damaging any expensive Gym floors or lovingly laid parquet floors. Also, we don't want to end up on our posteriors in front of our spin mates or loved ones.

For more information on how Cycling Weekly tackles testing the world's best cycling gear, visit our how we test page.

Meet the tester

How to choose the best indoor cycling shoes

Frequently asked questions about indoor cycling shoes

‘Gravel’ means so many different things to different people. On the one hand, you have the competitive racing side, where performance and optimization are just as paramount as when racing on the road - albeit perhaps with a few more pockets. 

At the other end, you have the bohemian social side - where anything goes and it’s all about feeling comfortable, having fun and just being out there in nature. Skin-clinging lycra can be left at the door, and more flowing and freeing clothing can take its place. 

But it wouldn’t be gravel if there were clear ‘rules’ to be followed! There are so many exceptions to those broad generalizations that setting too much store by those rough pigeon holes is almost wholly pointless.

Non-competitive gravellers might still appreciate the many pockets and the more secure storage offered by cargo bib shorts and skin-tight jerseys - you just can’t load up baggies the same way, and most definitely not to the same extent. Layering is also easier and more efficient, with options for gilets, arm and leg warmers - and sequence of jackets over the top. 

On the other hand, there’s nothing to preclude you from wearing baggies on a hard-and-fast blast, chasing your way up the climbs. 

With all that in mind, here’s my top picks across the gravel spectrum for women - from figure-hugging lycra to more relaxed tops and shorts.

The quick list

JERSEYS

RELAXED TOPS

CARGO BIB SHORTS

BAGGY SHORTS