Now the lubricant sponsor and supplier for Visma Lease a Bike and Team UAE Emirates XRG, Silca can lay a decent claim to being the choice of chain wax for those that desire speed and efficiency. For those of us that want to emulate the pro setups, Silca provides the Chain Waxing System.

Construction and specifications

The system is built around the Electric Wax Warmer, essentially a chain waxing specific crock pot. This plugs in via a US or UK charging cable and heats the internal 600ml reservoir up to the desired temperature to melt the wax and submerge chains in it. Buttons on the front and an LED display allow for tailored temperature setting. A range of 75-125˚C is given, which according to Silca allows for the optimal temperatures for its various waxing formulations.

There is also a clear plastic ventilated lid so you can keep an eye on progress without the system overheating.

This system sits on the drip stand arrangement; a metal two-piece stand which at the top includes a chain holder to allow the excess molten wax to drip off the chain to avoid and large solid chunks of wax being left deposited on the links.

The Silca Waxing System does not come with wax as standard, that needs to be purchased separately or as part of a package. On the one hand, this is a little frustrating, but on the other it does mean you can use whatever wax melt formula you want; you are not restricted to Silca. For this testing however, Silca supplied a mix of wax additives.

There is the Secret Chain Blend, which is the stalwart of their waxing products, the SpeedChip for lower drivetrain resistance, and the EnduranceChip for greater longevity. The StripChip aims to take away the need to degrease or clean a chain, while the Chain Stripper is an environmentally friendly alternative to standard hardware store chemicals used to strip grease.

None of Silca’s products include PFAS chemicals, the forever chemicals that have been banned from use in waterproofs now. Silca claims the wax can save 8 watts compared to factory greased chains, with this amount becoming proportionally greater as oiled chains pick up dirt. It is also claimed that waxing can increase a chain lifespan to 25000km. An independent verifier, Zero Friction Cycling, has confirmed that proper waxing does increase chain life and reduce drivetrain resistance losses.

The StripChip is designed to be dropped in with the wax, with 10min at 125˚ C, then the rest at 75˚ C. It removes the need for a chain stripper and degreasing, but there is no mention of impact on drivetrain losses, but Silca claims there is no drop in performance.

Finally, the additives. The SpeedChip claims to increase efficiency by 0.4% for one chip, and 0.6% for two chips. Meanwhile the EnduranceChip increases single wax use to 550km with one chip, and 750km with two.

Super Secret Chain Lube can also be used as a top-up waxing agent without the need for full re-immersive waxing.

Performance

I’ve already covered the various pros and cons to chain waxing in a previous article, so for this review, the focus is going to be on the performance of this specific waxing system and how it works. And the short answer is, wonderfully.

It’s a very intuitive system, with simple control buttons for on/off, and temperature adjustment. For a pretty novice waxer such as myself, the various online guides provided by Silca as to best use the waxing system were intuitive and easy to follow.

Cleaning a chain can be a faff, but the StripChip addition removes this step for you. Simple adding that to a heap of the wax and whacking it up to 125˚ C resulted in a gloriously malevolent-looking potion of metallic speckled wax.

The chain hanger is a bit of faff, though. It works well, with a threaded end to the wire to attached to the solid bar that keeps the chain suspended once hanging. However, I require a long chain on my Large and Extra Large frames. The size of the Silca Waxing System pot is not massively large, and it require both a full vat of wax and a good amount of folding and manoeuvring to get the chain fully submerged while fitted on to the chain holder. It just needs to be a little bit larger.

Then we have the hanging itself. The hanger fits into a divot where it remains positioned, but it is not secure and sits precariously. I had a couple of occasions where it was knocked and fell back into the wax. Some form of a clip would remove this issue and result in a far more secure hold.

This whole process does not take long. The wax melting takes the longest but can be done while you get on with your day. Then you submerge the wax in for 10 minutes, then hang until you have time to fit the chain, or the wax is dry. Using the Silca wax, it does result in a chain that requires a good amount of manual manipulation to loosen up and be ready to fit. You then need a good 10 minutes of pedalling to get the chain to really loosen up, and initially in this period it is stiff and makes the drivetrain drag. But after 10 minutes, and a lot of wax chippings flying off, the chain runs smoothly, quietly, and without any issue.

Wet weather does result in a somewhat claggy sensation, and the wax comes off the chain faster. In terms of dry weather durability, I would say it is around 400-450km before the chain starts to sound a little more metal on metal. This is the sign that the chain needs resubmerging, or the drip lube needs to be applied as a top up.

Given part of my testing included being away in Spain doing around 700km in the week, the drip lube was a fantastic addition to top the wax up. Another huge benefit of waxing, was that the bike assembly and disassembly, which usually leaves me covered in black chain oil, was a clean and mess free process.

Regarding the SpeedChip and EnduranceChip, frankly there is negligible difference and certainly not something perceivable. Anyone telling you they can tell a 0.4% improvement in drivetrain efficiency is most likely lying, while the duration increase is more perceivable and useful for ultra events.

Although the duration of the wax does wane in wet weather, it does keep the chain cleaner and free from contaminants that would usually stick to the oil. This is the real benefit. As an oiled chain gets dirty, or wet, it becomes less efficient, wears more, and the lifespan decreases. Waxed chains remain as fast with limited drop off in performance, if the wax is topped up. To give a reference to how chain wear has been, my Shimano 105 chain is now on around 4500km and still below the 0.25 wear indicator. It’s done over a year now, whereas previously I would find that a winter of riding would require a new chain.

I’ve not done extensive wear testing across a range of different wax lubricants, the specialists such as Zero Friction Cycling have that covered. But it is clear from my own long-term testing, along with independent confirmations, that the Silca Wax does indeed keep a chain running well for far longer than most oil based lubricants can manage. I also find the entire waxing system a relative breeze to use. There is a good amount of initial setup, but with the StripChip really does make life easier and takes away the chain stripping process.

Value

All these additives and wax Chips however come at a cost. The waxing system itself at £/$99.99 is not cheap, but once you have it you can reuse it regularly. However, the wax is £/$40 for 500g, the StripChips is £/$4 per chip, while additional additives are £/$29 a piece, but can be reused until you need to top up the wax reservoir. Then for travel and easy top-ups, the Drip Lube starts at £/$16 for 60ml and goes up to £/$45 for 240ml.

This all amounts to quite a cost, and of course the wax components are repeat purchases. The longevity is decent, even over mixed British weather, but in the latest wet winter and spring I have require far more waxing than the previous drier summer. But I have not had to replace any components across this period, save for brake pads.

If you use a cheaper chain, and cheaper oil, it likely still comes out cheaper to use that. But you will have to spend more time cleaning. If you use higher end components, such as Shimano's Ultegra or Dura Ace chains, cassettes, and chainrings, then the waxing does become significantly better value as the rate of replacement for these more expensive parts drops.

Even then, I’d argue that degreasing and stripping a chain fully of factory grease and using a wax drip lubricant will present better overall value. There is an argument that the watt savings will not be quite as high, but the process is simpler, the initial cost far less, and over longer durations it will still likely be a bit cheaper.

In terms of competitors, there are not many. The Dynamic Waxifyer Set is very similar but costs the same and is perhaps not quite as refined. CeramicSpeed has a very different approach. It features a wraparound block for the chain to go around, which is then submerged in the melted wax which can be melted using a pot of boiling water. It is not as controlled for temperature but is impressively mess free and costs £42.99 /$56 for the Kit including wax. Again, this can be topped up with different wax drip lubes, while different waxes can be used in this system. The Ceramic Speed bags of wax are also a bit cheaper at £36.95 /$45 for 400g.

Conclusion

The Silca Waxing System is the piece of kit that I never knew I needed. Most cyclists like to go fast, and genuine watt savings from waxed chains across a range of conditions are brilliant. Add to that the increase component longevity, and over time it can save you money. However, there is still an initial outlay, and future purchases of wax and additives drive up the cost.

Some may prefer using cheaper chains, oil lubes, and more regular bike cleaning which may be cheaper. But on more expensive components, the waxing makes even more sense. It’s also cleaner, and quieter.

This system is not the best value waxing option out there, but the results are tangible, it will make your bike faster, and the ability to tailor temperatures and keep the whole waxing process confined to one area is useful. As a performance focussed cyclist, I would buy one of these. For others, a good chain clean and wax drip lube may suffice.

The best bike multi-tools are worth their weight in gold. While you hope you won’t need to use one during a ride, when called upon they have to be able to come to the rescue. Whether it’s splitting a chain or simply adjusting a loose top cap, you need a reliable tool to allow you to get riding again as quickly as possible.

I’ve tried plenty over the years and found many of them lacking. Some were uncomfortable in the hand, while others lacked the ability to reach all the bolts. Durability was often an issue, too. I stumbled across the Crank Brothers M19 years back and it's been like a trusted friend ever since.

It’s not the lightest but makes up for this with its general sturdiness, a far more relevant trait in a multitool if you ask me. Much of its inherent strength seems to come from just how well made it is. While it’s now a little rusty in places the hex and torx keys as well as the screwdriver heads still function brilliantly - I never fear rounding a head like I have done with some other multitools in the past.

The full list of keys and screwdrivers is as follows: Hex #2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8. Screwdrivers, Philips #1 & 2, flat #2, Torx T-10, T-26.

Perhaps the M19’s best attribute however is its shape. It’s an ergonomically efficient design, with the slim, flat profile fitting as nicely in the hand as it does in a jersey pocket or saddlebag. It makes it easy to grip when you need a little more torque, and I’ve never had any issues with it causing discomfort.

The addition of a chain tool only adds to the M19’s appeal. The early models didn’t feature this and it’s a great upgrade. It works without having to screw in a pin or use another tool to make it function. Simply flip it out and use it to break a chain just as you would any conventional chain tool.

That it’s still going strong after many years of use is testament to the durability I’d mentioned before and its practical design. For me it’s not been surpassed by newer tools and apart from it having a dedicated tubeless tire plugger it remains as relevant as ever.

So while you'll likely find cheaper multi-tools on sale, you probably won't find a better one than the Crankbrothers M19.

Cycling, as we know, is a pretty environmentally sound choice and so the best bike cleaning kits ought to be too. However some of the petrochemical products that we use routinely to maintain our bikes might not be as eco-friendly as we'd like. If we have the option to use sustainable, plant-based products that are also biodegradable then we should buy them, shouldn't we? Of course, as long as they work properly.

The five products on test here are all from Effetto Mariposa's new sustainable cleaning and lubrication range and include the Mangiacatena Chain Cleaner machine (RRP £30), the Allpine Extra Eco Chain Degreaser (RRP £16, 500ml), the Flowerpower Wax Chain Lube (RRP £12, 100ml), the Cog Brush (RRP £9) and lastly the Allpine Light Eco Bike Cleaner (RRP £14, 1,000ml).

Let's find out how the Effetto Mariposa products perform and decide whether they're worth the slightly higher outlay than standard bike cleaners that may not have the same eco credentials.

Using the Effetto Mariposa Mangiacatena Chain Cleaner with the Allpine Extra Eco Chain Degreaser

Let's start with the chain. The Mangiacatena Chain Cleaner machine is the first chain cleaner to have lamellar elements at both ends (where the chain enters and exits), says Effetto. This should keep more of the degreaser inside the machine allowing the six rotating brushes to remove the dirt in the most efficient manner. The machine is able to be fitted to the upper or lower part of the chain and it can be run in either direction, although if turning the cranks forward the bike would need to be in a stand as the rear wheel would turn. It will accommodate singlespeed chains all the way up to 13-speed chains. I used a seven-speed 3/32" chain to test as it was the dirtiest one around at the time... 

So, I decided to start with cleaning a rather grubby chain. The machine fits over the chain so that chain removal is unnecessary. Once the lid and handle are locked into place the degreaser liquid can be applied through the hole in the tip up to the fill line. 

First starting the machine is really stiff but once it starts to move it runs well. Subsequent starts get easier with use. The green/blue Allpine Extra fluid changes colour quickly to a muddy brown. 

I removed the machine to empty this fluid into a bowl and refilled again. After three lots of fluid turning brown the fourth remained green so I felt its work had been done. I then used a dry rag to partly dry the chain and left it overnight to fully dry but also to see whether the chain would develop any rust.

Effetto uses pine oil in the Allpine Extra as this is apparently a natural solvent. The degreasant certainly smells very piny as the name implies and it did an excellent job at cleaning off a fairly horrid chain. And is certainly much less harsh than removing the chain and putting it in a jam jar of petrol. Allpine will also clean brake discs of oily residue that can contaminate the pads. 

Once finished I cleaned the muddy/oily drips off the frame and rim. The lamellar elements definitely keep the majority of the Allpine Extra inside the cleaner but the chain will always transport a bit of fluid around the system. This is a job to do outside or on newspaper.

I then washed the machine out with warm water. It completely disassembles for ease of cleaning and drying. Ready for next time!

Treating a degreased chain with the Effetto Mariposa Flowerpower Wax Chain Lube

The next morning the chain was looking much cleaner and it was free running as well as rust free. I then applied the Flowerpower Wax Lube which is a semi viscous white liquid all over the chain top surface. I then ran it in by turning the cranks backwards and finally took the excess off with a dry rag. After a couple of hours the wax had dried clear.

Effetto has formulated Flowerpower to have a high wax ratio (over 50%) which is derived from sunflower seeds. This is to preferable, they say, to a traditional lubricating oil as it is far less likely to collect contamination which leads to the oil becoming a grinding paste on the cogs and components. Certainly my test chain is remarkably clean and free running a month after cleaning and then waxing it. It is on a utility bike that is used several times a week in all weathers.

Cleaning a cassette with the Effetto Mariposa Cog Brush

The Effetto Mariposa Cog Brush has three areas to help clean out old crud from in-between sprockets, jockey wheels and chains. It is made from nylon and is resistant to solvents.

The curved, thin handle has serrations that will fit in between the cogs to lift out old mud/oil (up to 10 speed cassettes). It measured 2.4mm wide.

The main lateral brush can then clean further in those awkward cog gaps. Compared to my usual Park Tool GSC-1 brush the bristles are a bit softer. However it has an additional tip brush, which the Park Tool doesn't have. These tip bristles are stiffer and more akin to to the lateral ones on the Park Tool. They are really good to run over the jockey wheels to clean up deposits left there. I usually use the tip of an old screwdriver but it's probably gentler to use the brush. It is great to get into nooks and crannies that otherwise might be left alone.

It could be useful to have a hole in the body to allow it to be hung up on a peg board, like the Park Tool one does. 

Cleaning the entire bike with Effetto Mariposa Allpine Light Eco Bike Cleaner

Effetto Mariposa has formulated the Allpine Light to be biodegradable and silicone free. Another benefit is that Allpine is harmless to chrome, carbon and painted parts. 

Firstly this bike cleaner smells like a pine bubble bath! It sprays on with a mist, leave it a short while then wipe off with a clean rag. Easy! It lifted dirt well and left a nice finish both visually and to the touch. It isn't meant to clean oily/gunky areas but that is when you'd use the degreaser first. Because it won't remove lubricant from a chain you can be fairly liberal with its application and not worry. 

The lack of a need to hose the bike down afterwards also benefits e-bikes with their additional electronics. However if a bike is very muddy Effetto recommends that you spray some Allpine on first then rinse off the excess mud. 

All in all good news for keeping your bike in top condition.

Value and conclusion

Looking at alternatives to benchmark value against I found the Halfords Cleaning Kit (including chain cleaner machine) to be less than half the price of Effetto's but it includes an aerosol for the degreaser. I haven't tested their products so couldn't comment on their efficacy. 

Also cheaper than Effetto Mariposa (but more than Halfords) is the Muc-Off 8-in-1 Bicycle Cleaning Kit, but they don't include a chain cleaning machine. The products of Muc-Off's that I have used over the years work well. 

So I would conclude that the Effetto system, if not the cheapest, is reasonable value for money, with the bonus that the products work well, are biodegradable and don't use aerosols. 

We know that a clean and well maintained bike is likely to be a reliable bike (and a fast one!) and the Effetto system makes looking after your bike an easy task. I found that all the products worked nicely and the Flowerpower chain wax was still working as claimed after a month of riding without subsequent cleaning or reapplication.

As well as having a clean and nicely functioning bike I also had a pine-fresh-smelling working space!

These Effetto Mariposa products are sold directly from UK distributor Upgrade's website or via Effetto Mariposa direct.

There are two types of mechanics in the world: those with patience, and those who break things often. I am more than happy to admit that on many occasions I fall into the second category, which can be handy when reviewing bikes and equipment since this approach is much more likely to reveal the potential pitfalls for future owners.

One of the pitfalls of an impatient mechanic is rounding bolts, and since bike testing involves setting up new machines on a weekly basis it's something I'm well aware of, especially with some brands choosing to create proprietary designs with assorted fasteners nestled away at strange, hard-to-reach angles. See also: bolt heads seemingly made of cheese.

Wera's Hex Plus L-keys are specifically designed to offer larger bearing surfaces in the screw head. Whilst some tool manufacturers set their aim at perfect tolerance, Wera has patented 'Hex Plus' to offer a greater contact patch between the tool and the fastener. The purists out there might not applaud this idea, preferring perfect tolerances in both bolt head and tool, but it works as far as I'm concerned. In fact, I've been using these tools for a full three years and I really can't remember having rounded a bolt with one of these coloured wands in hand.

Wera says that not only does the Hex Plus design reduce the chance of bolt head deformation, it also allows the user to apply as much as 20 per cent more torque. The set covers all the sizes I've needed when maintaining bikes so far (1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10) with longer handles on the larger tools, in line with the expected torque required.

These Allen keys are constructed from chromium molybdenum steel (chromoly), and come with a ball-end for when you're working in a smaller space, or around a niggly corner.

Each key is treated with what Wera calls a 'Black Laser' surface treatment, offering a reported increase in longevity and reduction in corrosion. The steel has indeed lasted the test of time so far.

However, the keys are wrapped in Thermoplastic sleeves, which are colour coded for quick and easy identification. This plastic has not lasted nearly so well as the all-important metal. The most used keys (4 and 5) now slip out of the plastic sleeve when removed from the holder. This is something I could fix with a dab of superglue but it seems rather a shame in an otherwise excellent quality construction. The numbers have rubbed off the side from use, as well - but by this point in our relationship the colour coding is well ingrained in my mind.

The Hex Plus L-keys arrive in a holder, with a flexible plastic hinge mechanism and a clasp which keeps them neatly in place. This smart package does drastically increase the chance of my keeping them all together, and makes throwing them into a bag ahead of a launch event or race simple. The set isn't light (579g) but the extra weight is worth it for the quality of tool on offer.

At £39, these aren't the cheapest hex keys available by a long shot. However, aside from the failure of the plastic sleeve they offer excellent quality - and it is better to buy an effective tool once rather than an ineffective tool three times.

Squirt Low Temperature Chain Lube is a 100 per cent biodegradable wax lube that its manufacturer says stays clean, is longlasting, and extends drivetrain life. We tested the regular ‘summer’ version last year and gave it 9/10. This winter version has a modified congealing point for cold conditions.

Following Squirt's instructions, it is possible to get your chain running silky smooth with no build-up of abrasive black paste. However, Squirt requires a much more rigorous chain care regime than a standard wet lube such as Finish Line; you end up using a lot more as a result, and it’s over twice the price.

Squirt Low Temperature Chain Lube: composition and application

Full marks for making Squirt 100 per cent biodegradable. It’s a wax and water emulsion that’s milky and very thin – only slightly thicker than actual milk – and contains no solvents.

This means, however, that its unique formula requires a completely degreased chain. Even a new chain needs the packing grease taking off it. If you don’t do this, Squirt simply won’t stay on.

>>> Is a waxed chain really worth it?

Squirt supplies detailed instructions for application. It’s tempting to ignore them, but they need to be followed to the letter if Squirt is to work properly. Sadly there’s no quick start guide, and that may put impatient people off.

For those people, I won’t go through the instructions here – let’s fast forward to applying it to a freshly degreased chain. Squirt has to be trickled via the bottle’s nozzle onto the inside of the chain. Because it’s so runny there is inevitably some wastage: a thin coating won’t do: the rollers have to be more or less swimming in it. It's a bit of a trick to make sure more goes into the chain than onto the floor.

Also because it’s so thin you can’t put it on just before you ride. It has to stiffen, a bit like candle wax. Ideally you do it the night before (Squirt says at least four hours, which obviously won’t work for the Sunday morning club run, unless you're up at around 4am). It stiffens better in cold conditions, so if you have a winter bike that lives in a shed rather than indoors, that's ideal.

The ride

If you’ve done everything properly and set off with a beautifully white, fully waxed, white-chocolate chain the ride will be as delicious as the chain looks like it should taste. If you overlube with wet lube, you can hear the links unsticking themselves from each other each time they go round the derailleur jockey wheels: not so with Squirt. Squirt is silent and smooth – and the more you’ve managed to get into the rollers the better it feels.

I can't comment on how many watts I'm saving in winter – waxed chains have been proven to improve drivetrain efficiency and are used by pro teams, but it I'm sure it won't cancel out the extra on my CdA from mudguards, gloves, overshoes and jacket.

I have to admit I've never felt my chain lube congealing at low temperatures, but I have ridden on the road at the lowest temperatures possible this year and the Squirt has felt smooth – at first. I've found that it washes off very easily and there's not a lot you can do about that in winter. The lanes are still always wet whether it's been raining or not. Although after a couple of hours the chain is not dry and squeaking – mainly because water is lubricating it – there's not much Squirt left by the time I get back, and reapplication is essential before the next ride.

I've also found that since it's water based, it doesn't protect the chain's plates from rust. I found this a little alarming at first and it's hard to see how this isn't going to affect it in the long term, but probably the chain would wear out – even with the increased life Squirt claims to give it – before the plates rust through. To be fair though, the rollers themselves stay nice and bright and clean.

Post-snowy ride ride the Squirt has washed off, exposing the rusting plates (but rollers stay clean)>>> Best chain lubes: buyer's guide

As for the chain's general cleanliness under winter riding conditions, naturally it still picks up grime – but that's all it is. My chain in the picture is the one I degreased back in October (it wasn't new then) and I've been using Squirt Low Temperature Chain Lube on it exclusively ever since. It looks bad, but the difference is it's not a thick, oily, abrasive grime that gets into every moving part of the drivetrain. In fact it's no worse than the mud on any other part of your bike after a winter ride. You could almost wipe it off with a sponge, rinse it under the tap and no one would be any the wiser.

Value

At £12.99 for 120ml it's almost twice the price of Finish Line Wet Lubricant and you'll get through a bottle a lot faster, too. Finish Line also makes Ceramic Wax Lube, which costs £8.49, £1 more than the Wet Lube. Muc Off Dry Lube costs £7.99 for 120ml. There is at least one lube that's more expensive and that's the Muc Off Hydrodynamic Chain Lube (developed with Team Sky, £15.99).

If you follow pro cycling closely, you’ll have seen that on key stages of important races riders on teams like Ineos and EF will roll up to the neutral zone with chains that look nothing like the spotless sheen we are accustomed to on pro bikes. These chains are coated in a special wax, which reduces drivetrain resistance enough to make a difference at the pointy end of the sport, even if it looks rubbish.

For mere mortals, a new chain for a big day seems a bit wasteful. But you might want to consider changing your chain lube in order to gain a few essentially free watts. I have always been a fan of whatever chain lube I can get for free, but after getting a bottle of wax-based Squirt Lube in the post for review recently, I was really impressed with just how much I preferred it to anything else I tried.

Will swapping your chain lube make you faster?

I don’t really care about drivetrain resistance these days, but I do care about my bike working well with minimum effort on my part. I found that Squirt, when applied to a clean dry chain, lasts much longer than other lubricants and stands up well to most of the dusty and muddy summer gravel rides I have done this summer.

Unlike a conventional chain lube, Squirt doesn’t need to be wiped off, but you really do need to leave it to dry before you ride. I tend to lube my chain at night and then wipe it in the morning before I ride, with Squirt I just skipped the morning step and gained valuable seconds to better match my socks to my gloves before each ride.

One area where Squirt doesn’t excel is on long bikepacking trips. You can’t really apply wax lube to a dirty chain, it’ll just turn into a sticky mess. I did take a small tube of Squirt on a recent trip to Mexico (pre pandemic), but only because I knew I would be able to clean my bike at a farm. If I’m at all unusure of conditions I stick to a more standard oil based lube for bikepacking.

For almost everything else, from road races to days at the bike park, I use Squirt. It lasts longer, takes less effort to use, and might even make me a tiny bit faster.

When a tool comes nestled in a custom birchwood box, you know that presentation has been an important factor in development, and that's undeniably the case with the Ypsilon Home Kit Y-wrench.

Silca has a reputation for creating beautiful tools, as well as pumps, and it's really gone to town here.

>>> The home workshop tools you just can’t live without

The humble Y-wrench is a useful workshop tool. This shape is favoured by those who want to be able to quickly reach several different sizes of tool all in one, as opposed to selecting a new L or P-handle key for each job - this is particuarly useful when making adjustments to an area that needs serveral different sizes.

The tool will always have three ends, though in this case as well as a fixed 4mm and 5mm end, there's a 1/4" bit collet with a magnetic attachement - remove the 6mm bit end, and you can exchange it for any of a vast compliement of tool pieces.

The box comes with a foam padded insert, carrying hex bits in sizes 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3 and 6mm, torx bits in t8, t10, t15, t20, t25 and t30 and screw bits in ph1, ph2, sl4 and sl5. Each of the bits is made from S2 steel, which is harder than the CRV (chrome vanadium) steel used in the spline body.

Silca Ypsilon Home Kit Y-Wrench kit in Tech of the Month

Each bit promises a tight tolerance, reducing the chance of rounding bolts. I'll be the first to admit that, as someone whose job it is to test bikes, I'm often making quick adjustments on the fly - and I've rounded plenty of bolts using the first tool that came to hand. With this Y-wrench, I found I could always get the right fit and was confident that it would be hard to damage a bolt (as long as the bolt head was still the correct shape in the first place!).

The 6mm end snaps out with a light pull, and fitting a new end is accompnied by a confidence inspiring 'click' which is just really enjoyable for anyone who takes pleasure in a well made tool.

The body itself uses a high strength CRV steel spine, surrounded by a plastic construction with ergonomic grips. This fitted in my hand beautifully and was always nice to work with.

It's undeniable that I have enjoyed working with this tool. But there was always going to be an obvious criticsm: the price.

At £110, this is not a cheap addition to your toolbox - so this creation loses a few points, more than would be typical for being 'a little bit overpriced'. A basic Y-wrench from ParkTool could set you back £11.99. Of course, that's with three fixed ends, and you'd need to buy a few to cover the cost if all the bits included here - but I've seen one option with some interchangable bits for £14.99 and there's also the question of how often you'll use some of the less common pieces.

Silca does offer a 'travel' version of this tool, which comes in a cardboard box, priced at £75 - which is quite a lot more reasonable.

My conclusion on the pricing argument is that it's simply not necessary to spend this much on a tool. However, if you're the sort of person who takes as much pleasure in looking at their neatly organised workshop as they do fixing bikes (I know I do) - or you're buying a gift for someone like that - then you can't put a price on happiness.

The large tin of hugely effective, citrus-scented degreaser scored the Weldtite kit some early points.

The main cleaning solution is also very good, but is let down by a pump that is next to useless and needed priming several times — before it eventually stopped working altogether.

The cassette brush is a very handy addition to the kit. The other two brushes are a little too alike, though — Muc-Off’s brushes offer a better variety of applications, in our view.

The five-piece brush kit is pretty good but sadly nowhere near as good as the Muc-Off kit.

The handles are quite shiny, making them difficult to grip with freezing cold, wet hands.

At £12.99 for just over a pint, the degreaser is as pricey as London lager but works well, either in a chain bath or with a brush. Both methods produce a sparkling clean finish.

The main cleaning spray is OK but, like the brushes, needed more effort to lift the dirt compared to Muc-Off, Ammo and Fenwick’s products.

The Power Cleaner has a citrus scent with a slightly industrial, ammonia-like whiff, but it’s not too unpleasant.

As its name suggests, it has plenty of power to get into hard-to-reach spots and lifts dirt easily, though the rinsed finish lacks sparkle.

The degreaser is also very good and eats through the filth on the cassette and rear mech very quickly to leave both looking pristine.

Rusted and corroded bike parts can be a pain to get shifted.

From the seatpost that’s stuck in the frame or bottom brackets cups that have seen one season too many, getting them shifted can be laborious work.

We had a couple of trouble maker parts to give the Chill Zone a work out on, and found that it’s remarkably good stuff.