I have stayed in Lourdes twice before and vowed each time never to return, yet there I was. For three nights.
With a rest day in Pau, the teams had the luxury of three nights in the same bed, something the Tour rarely offers once it leaves the Grand Depart. Obviously, the Tour organisers booked out a good percentage of Pau’s accommodation before even letting the great unwashed know the race route. Then the organised and the competent among the took the rest before the end of January. Then there was me.
My next choice was Tarbes, another decent little town with pleasant restaurants, followed by one of the little Logis de France in one of the picturesque villages nestling in the foothills of the Pyrenees.
Of course I left it all to the last minute and experienced a day-and-a-half of frustration trying to book a room in Anywhere But Lourdes. Without success.
Ed had suggested ringing the hotel Agritubel were staying at and asking if I could have Christophe Moreau’s room but the Lourdes hotel was already paid for and it would have been a wanton waste of the company’s money not to turn up just because the place gives me the creeps. There’s no space for that on the expenses form.
I tried to spend as little time as possible in Lourdes town centre, which made the experience slightly more bearable.
After the first positive dope test of the Tour, courtesy of Manuel Beltran, I got a few texts and emails from friends at home who are not cycling fans but keep an ear out at Tour de France time.
Basically they all mocked me and my entire career choice. They may not have meant to but they did.
One read: “Seven days it took. That’s better than last year, ha ha.”
Another said: “Why don’t they just finish every stage outside the chemists?”
Another read: “Are you coming home now?”
There was a strange reaction to the news of Beltran’s positive, with some journalists asking leading questions of riders and managers. “Isn’t this just a case of one of the old guard,” they asked. The line was that either it was one last throw of the dice by a 37-year-old, or it was a case of old habits dying hard.
Whichever, there seemed to be a willingness among some to come rapidly to the conclusion that doping is something only the ‘old guard’ do and that anyone born after, say 1980, wouldn’t possibly dope.
After news broke that 27-year-old Moises Duenas of Barloworld had tested positive, that hypothesis was shattered. Here was a rider who would have been a teenager when the Festina scandal ruined the Tour in 1998.
It is taking around a week for the results of the dope tests to be made public. Duenas tested positive after last Tuesday’s time trial in Cholet. Like a hideous echoey delay on a long-distance phone line, it’s taking a while for the message to finally sink in.
Beltran’s result was known on Friday afternoon in Aurillac. Anyone who tests positive as the result of a test from Saturday onwards really will qualify for the title of Stupidest, Most Selfish Doper of 2008.
The Rest Day rarely offers any chance of a rest, although this year it was largely self-inflicted.
Two years ago, we faced a long drive from Vannes in Brittany to Bordeaux in the camper van, a journey which took all day and most of our patience and good humour to complete.
Last year in Pau, the race melted down with the news of Alexandre Vinokourov?s positive dope test, meaning a long evening spent watching not very much happen at their hotel.
This year, I opted for a bike ride, which you can read all about in the CW Rides… feature on this site.
CW’S DOMESTIQUE’S GUIDE
Cycling Weekly comes over all Judith Chalmers…
Best Western Beausejour, Lourdes
Tarif: 115 euros per room per night
Facilities: Perfectly adequate
Room: Small with a single bed and a tiny television on a stand so close to the ceiling it was almost impossible to watch in comfort
Bed: Spongy, like riding on a slow puncture you know won’t make it all the way home
Staff: Polite, if a bit ponderous, as if they’re waiting for a much, much more important guest than you to check in any minute (if you know what I mean)
Best Western Beausejour, Lourdes
How can the French get magret de canard – duck steak – so wrong? A great layer of sloppy wet fat sat on a tough, chewy breast of duck. Instantly forgettable
Unnamed pizzeria, Lourdes
Lourdes does not offer much in the way of culinary finery. We ate at this pizza restaurant last year and it wasn’t any good then either. Robert found something spongy in his beer.
LIFE AT THE TOUR: PREVIOUS BLOGS
|TOUR DE FRANCE 2008: STAGE REPORTS
Stage 11: Arvesen wins
Stage 10: Evans takes yellow jersey by one second
Stage nine: Ricco wins in the Pyrenees
Stage eight: Cavendish wins again in Toulouse
Stage seven: Sanchez takes action-packed stage
Stage six: Ricco storms to win
Stage five: Cavendish takes first Tour win
Stage four: Schumacher wins TT and takes race lead
Stage three: Dumoulin wins stage from break
Stage two: Hushovd wins chaotic sprint
Stage one: Valverde wins
|TOUR DE FRANCE 2008: NEWS
Analysis: Tour de France rest day summary
Cavendish battles through Pyrenees
Evans suffers but takes yellow jersey [stage 10]
Analysis: Hautacam shakes up 2008 Tour
Ricco silences critics with solo attack in Pyrenees [stage nine]
Cavendish talks about his second stage win [stage eight]
Beltran heads home but doubts remain about other Tour riders
David Millar: the dope controls are working
Manuel Neltran tests positive for EPO at the Tour
Comment: How the Tour rediscovered its spirit
Doping back in Tour de France headlines
Millar: close but no cigar in Super-Besse [stage six]
Super-Besse shows form of main contenders [stage six]
Millar to go for yellow [stage six]
Team Columbia’s reaction to Cavendish’s win [stage five]
Cavendish talks about his Tour stage win
Tour comment: Why Evans should be happy [stage four]
Millar: Still aiming for Tour yellow jersey [stage 4]
Who is Romain Feillu?
Cavendish disappointed with stage two result
Millar too close to Tour yellow jersey
Stage 2 preview: A sprint finish for Cavendish?
Millar happy after gains precious seconds in Plumelec
Valverde delighted with opening Tour stage win
Comment: Is Valverde’s win a good thing for the Tour?
|TOUR DE FRANCE 2008: PHOTOS
|TOUR DE FRANCE 2008: BLOGS
Life at the Tour part three
Life at the Tour part two
Life at the Tour part one
|TOUR DE FRANCE 2008: GUIDE
Tour de France 2008 homepage>>
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Day by day summary>>
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