Best budget cycling shoes 2024 rated and reviewed
Whether you are riding road pedals or off-road pedals, good shoes will improve your comfort and efficiency, and needn't break the bank
Best budget cycling shoes 2024: Jump Menu
Road shoes
1. Best all-rounder
2. Cheapest on test
3. Best for comfort
SPD shoes
1. Best all-rounder
2. Cheapest on test
3. Best for gravel
Flagship models of the best cycling shoes cost an eye-watering amount of money, with some costing as much as a basic bike. These come with the lightest, stiffest materials and the latest technology to eke out every last drop of performance. However, the good news is that entry-level models now offer more performance than ever for a fraction of the cost and might actually be more comfortable for normal riders than the super stiff pro-centric offerings.
All these shoes are designed to work with clipless pedals (the type of pedals that you clip into, rather confusingly, but all is explained in our how to cycle with 'clipless' pedals guide).
Traditionally, road pedals use a large, 3-bolt cleat system for efficient power transfer whereas off-road pedals have a 2-bolt design that is easier to walk in. However, if you spend a lot of time off the bike such as commuting or touring, then the 2-bolt shoes and pedals might work better for you even if you are road riding.
After the shoe reviews is an advice section that should help clear up any questions or buying conundrums that you might have.
The quick list
Road shoes
You can trust Cycling Weekly.
Best all-rouder
Best all-rounder
A snug heal and roomy toe box combine with a reasonably stiff sole that blends pedaling efficiency with comfort.
Cheapest on test
Cheapest on test
Comfort, fit and performance belie the price tag. The reflective heel patch is a nice touch too.
Best for comfort
Best for comfort
A stylish shoe that blends comfort with performance; the vented sole is plenty stiff while the upper is unobtrusive.
SPD shoes
Best all-rounder
Best all-rounder
A grippy sole that's great to walk in is matched to a upper that features a comfy single-sided tongue arrangement.
Cheapest on test
Cheapest on test
Affordable shoes suited to those new to 'clipping in', they're comfortable to wear but soles do lack grip.
Best for gravel
Best for gravel
Lightweight, breathable and comfortable to wear, with a grippy sole that adds to their gravel appeal.
Best budget cycling shoes 2024: Our picks
Road shoes
Best road all-rounder
1. Shimano RC-1 (SH-RC100)
Our expert review:
Specifications
Reasons to buy
Reasons to avoid
The RC-1 shoe is the road-going sibling to the XC-1 (also on test here) and it uses the 3-bolt cleat type sole which is a little stiffer than the off-road version. Shimano suggests that it has a 6/12 stiffness rating, although as each brand has their own rating system, this is only really useful for comparing between their models.
This sole uses a glass fiber-reinforced nylon with some venting in the toe area. The sole is easily the best to walk in with cleats attached, it's so flexible you can almost walk normally!
The shoe certainly looks the part with synthetic leather uppers and three Velcro straps. The offset upper strap relieves tension on the top of the foot, says Shimano, and I found this to match my experience on the longer, hotter rides of the summer. I found the fit to be really good with a snug heel and enough space in the toe box, but only just. Whilst there was no touching of toes, there wasn't loads of extra space.
Available in three colors; Black, Navy and White, and in sizes 36-50 plus a ladies Black with accents in sizes 36-44. You will probably need to size up at least one size over your normal shoe.
I could wear these shoes for a long time without problems and liked their construction and style. It's a shame that they didn't have reflective heel sections though. Overall a really nice shoe in what is a really close competition.
Cheapest road shoe on test
2. FLR F35-iii
Our expert review:
Specifications
Reasons to buy
Reasons to avoid
The FLR F-35iii are the least expensive of our sub group. This is "a great entry-level shoe that delivers high performance" according to FLR. The stretch-resistant synthetic upper uses three Velcro straps (as do the Shimano and Northwave) and the 3-bolt cleat sole uses injected fiberglass to keep things stiff to aid power transfer. There are six color variants; Black with either white, yellow or pink detailing, White, Fluorescent Yellow and Fluorescent Pink, and sizes 36-49 are catered for.
Putting the shoes on, the first thing that I noticed is that the top Velcro strap always comes out of its loop and needs feeding back through each time. It's not a big problem though. Once on, I found the fit to be a fraction wider than the other road shoes, and this is felt across the toes and toe box. Although slightly wider I felt more pressure on the top of the foot under the top straps after longer rides. The heel cup follows in the same fashion but I found no heel slip. We really are talking small increments of difference here though.
The sole transferred power efficiently and was pretty good to walk in with its wide and stable heel pad. I liked the reflective heel patch, which was the largest of the 3-bolt shoes.
With its wide selection of colors and keen pricing it may be considered to be a bit of a bargain in the pack.
Best for comfort
3. Northwave Core 2
Our expert review:
Specifications
Reasons to buy
Reasons to avoid
The Northwave Core 2 shoe is available in a variety of sizes from 36-50 (including half sizes 39.5-45.5) for men, 36-43 for women (again with half sizes 39.5-42.5) as well as a junior version with sizes 32-38. The men's shoe is available in three colors; black with either a subtle grey heel section, a red or yellow heeled version. The lady's shoes have a black front half which fades to a white heel section with a flash of pink for good measure. The junior's fade from black to a bright yellow rear outer half of the shoe.
The carbon-reinforced sole has a stiffness rating of 8.0 (versus their own Extreme Pro 2 model at 15.0) and it has 5 venting sections to aid airflow. The sole will accommodate both 2-bolt and 3-bolt cleat types but I used 3-bolt cleats as there was no side support to allow safe walking in a 2-bolt cleat. Indoor use only in that scenario I think.
Northwave says that the "upper's seamless unibody construction reduces pressure points" and whilst I found this to be true I did find that the upper Velcro strap did apply a little pressure if not set just so. Careful adjustment reduced this one issue. I had a size 44 shoe and wore a mid-weight sock and it fitted really nicely. There was no slop when riding hard out of the saddle and I was able to pull up on the pedals effectively for that extra burst of power on a steep section.
I felt that I had room to put on a slightly thicker sock for colder weather and not become cramped, especially in the toe box. They were pretty weatherproof in the rain, all things considered, and the venting felt well-judged in the hotter weather too. I liked the seven bars of reflective material on the heel as well, good for night rides.
Overall a really nice looking, well-performing and comfortable shoe. Spend a little time getting the top Velcro strap set correctly and you'll have a great ride.
Best for stiffness
4. dhb Dorica Road
Our expert review:
Specifications
Reasons to buy
Reasons to avoid
The well-priced dhb Dorica Road shoes are available in three colors; White, Black and Grey, and in sizes 39-48. They feature perforations on the central part of the upper and tongue to increase breathability, whilst the lower sections are solid fabric. There are three ventilation slots on the sole too. The soles can accommodate either 2-bolt or 3-bolt cleats (see introduction) but are primarily aimed at 3-bolt road use I'd say.
These are a good looking shoe and garnered positive comments from all who saw them. They appear to be really slim but I found the fit to be very good. The toe box had a decent amount of room but not excessive, and the heel cup held the foot well. On hot days my feet didn't overheat. I rather liked the lace setup with its elasticated tidy-away place halfway down the tongue.
I had one issue however with the right shoe (but not the left one, though). It felt that there was pressure on the top of my toes around the bottom lace / tongue base area. It was as if the tongue had folded over when putting them on. I checked all possibilities, I felt inside both shoes by hand with no detectable differences. I tried swivelling the top of the tongue, loosening the bottom laces right off and it improved a little. I could never quite get comfortable. The left shoe had no issues and was great. I therefore put it down to one of those weird one-off things
Size-wise these were a 43 (my normal shoe size) and there was plenty of room. No need to size up here.
Overall I liked their style and performance but, for me, the right tongue issue spoilt an otherwise great pair of shoes.
Best performance
5. Shimano RC3
Our expert review:
Specifications
Reasons to buy
Reasons to avoid
Shimano’s RC3 is its fourth-tier shoe, sitting one above its most entry-level offering. For the price, it provides impressive capability: it’s built around the same last as Shimano’s other road shoes so the fit is the same, features a single L6 BOA closure, has an overlapping (tongueless) upper and midsole construction that places seams below the sole instead of at its edges. It has all the same features as Shimano’s S-Phyre line, just with less expensive materials. If Shimano’s shoes fit your feet, then the RC300 offers the best bang for your buck in the lineup in my opinion.
No half sizes are available, but the range does go all the way up to size 50, which will make it a good option for those on the right end of the size bell curve. Wide sizes are also available in a slightly more limited range.
The single BOA dial doesn’t offer the same level of fit as a more expensive shoe, but its placement in the middle of the forefoot creates a good balance with which to lock down your foot. Shimano ascribes a sole stiffness of 6 (out of 12) to the nylon and fiberglass sole. By lifting up the insole, you can see the unusual construction: it's built with a three-dimensional hexagonal pattern, akin to a honeycomb, to add structure to the materials. The sole is vented under the toe.
Visually, the shoe matches the size and shape of the top-of-the-line S-Phyres exactly, but the less exotic materials make the padding around the heel and midfoot a bit thicker—it’s not nearly as sleek, though it fits the same.
On the bike, the RC900 performed well for me. The BOA keeps things locked down and the shoe transfers power reasonably well. The sole doesn’t have the sharpness of a carbon shoe, but it does filter out some of the road noise and was comfortable to walk in for coffee shop stops. At $125, the RC900 is quite impressive value—it offers advanced features at an entry-level price. There aren’t many shoes in this price bracket that can match its performance.
SPD shoes
Best all-rounder
1. Shimano XC-1 (SH-XC100)
Our expert review:
Specifications
Reasons to buy
Reasons to avoid
The Shimano XC-1 is a really classic-looking shoe featuring a synthetic leather composite upper with 3 Velcro straps and a super grippy rubber sole, which was the best in test to walk in. The fit is comfortable with a great heel cup but I found them to be a fraction short and a little closer to my outer toes than I'd ideally like. To be fair I wore them the other night for three hours without any issues developing.
You may need to consider sizing up again, I'm normally a 43 and was wearing the 44 XC-1s. I found loosening off the lowest Velcro strap helped. An oddity is that when wearing the Shimano RC-1 shoe I didn't experience this tight toe box feeling. Visually the shoes appear to have the same uppers whilst differing in the soles, but maybe there are other differences in their design.
The tongue is only open on one side (as opposed to both sides with most shoes) and the upper slides over the fixed tongue to set its position. I really liked this arrangement, and with the offset upper Velcro strap, it lessened pressure on the top of the foot.
Shimano say that the soles are a 5/12 in their stiffness rating. It felt absolutely fine when riding and they were really good to walk in.
Apart from being a fraction short, and I could wear thinner socks perhaps, I liked the XC-1s. I would wear them if I was commuting or touring as the combination of good riding performance, good walking ability and looking more 'normal' was excellent. It was a nicely made shoe too.
Cheapest on test
2. Muddyfox MTB100
Our expert review:
Specifications
Reasons to buy
Reasons to avoid
The Muddyfox MTB100 is the most budget friendly of our selection. It is an aggressively styled MTB shoe and only comes in a Black with Grey and Orange accents version. The sole is similarly aggressive with its grips and removable toe studs, however, the sole is not particularly grippy as it's made from a fairly hard plastic rather than rubber. It's also quite hard to walk in with the toe studs, as your foot can't roll onto the toes so easily. Unless you're in a muddy cross-country or cyclo-cross race, I'd probably remove them!
Whilst entirely comfortable I found the shoe to feel a bit tube-like in its fit, by which I mean that there is minimal arch support and quite a rounded toe box. I found that, with the size 44, my left big toe was just touching the end. Whilst this didn't cause any issues it's worth noting that they're a fraction short. Maybe you'd need to size up to a 45? The reflective stripe on the heel is a good thing too especially if you ever ride at night on the road.
The other issue that I found was with pedals; it played nicely with the M520 pedal but with a single sided and caged SPD pedal (PD-A520) it wouldn't click in correctly. The tread either side of the cleat was a fraction taller (only 1mm or so) and this clashed. Over time and with wear this would cease to be a problem but it's worth knowing.
Best for gravel
3. Giro Ranger
Our expert review:
Specifications
Reasons to buy
Reasons to avoid
If you can up the budget a little then the old-school cross-country style Giro Ranger is well worth a look. There are four colors this time; Black, Black with Cascade Green writing, Porter Grey and an Olive Green with a Gum sole. The uppers combine a supple synthetic fiber, which feels slightly rubbery to the touch, with mesh panels for breathability. There are three Velcro straps to adjust the fit. Also available are three sizes of arch support insole kits if the standard shoe needs adjustment. I found no issue with the standard fit and left it that way for the testing.
The sole is made from a fairly grippy rubber and the tread is reasonably lugged for XC mountain biking. You can add two toe studs per shoe should you wish but whilst they help in really muddy conditions they do hinder walking otherwise.
These shoes were, for me, the most comfortable of the 2-bolt selection. I could wear them all day with no issues. I liked the aesthetic of the Olive Green and the reflective heel patch was a good size to make it a worthwhile addition. They were cool enough in the 25-30 degree centigrade weather of this summer. Overall the fit felt very similar to my own Sidi Dominator shoes and they were my personal favourites.
Best for leisure riding
4. Rockrider EXPL100
Our expert review:
Specifications
Reasons to buy
Reasons to avoid
The Rockrider EXPL100 shoe represents great value for money particularly for a novice or occasional rider. The shoes only come in black with a white sole edging, and they have the styling of a trainer. The sole has a trail running shoe tread pattern with widely spaced blocks that should shed mud fairly easily. It is a nicely grippy tread and whilst it isn't a particularly stiff sole it is comfortable to walk in.
Decathlon says that this shoe is good for a couple of hours riding and I'd agree with that. After that, the laces start to be felt on the top of the foot a little, and lower down they don't add much support if one is out of the saddle and pulling up on the pedals. I did, however, really like the lace tidy-away at the top of the sewn-in tongue. It stopped the loose ends from getting anywhere near the chain and front rings.
I found that the size 44 was a good fit from the ball of the foot back to the heel but it was a bit too long overall. I tried on a 43 in Decathlon and found that it was the size that I'd choose. I'm a 43 in 'normal' shoes and would suggest that you don't size up in this case.
Overall it was the sort of shoe that would be great at a Center Parcs or on a gentle family trail ride, or to use where some walking as well as riding is needed.
Advice
Why buy cycling specific shoes?
There are three main reasons why you might consider riding with a cycling-specific shoe. Firstly, it will allow the use of cleats and clipless pedals. Secondly, once clipped in, more of your leg power is transferred through the pedal to the wheel. Finally, once set up correctly, your foot will be in the optimal position for pedaling.
Of course, you can achieve similar things with old-school toe clips (this is why SPD type pedals are called 'clipless'), or you may prefer flat pedals with pins for mountain biking as this can allow more dynamic movement of the bike.
What are the differences between 2-bolt and 3-bolt cleats?
Assuming that you're looking for a shoe to clip in with, we looked at some shoes that use the 2-bolt SPD type system and some shoes that use the 3-bolt SPD-SL road system. Broadly speaking, to decide whether to choose the 2-bolt or 3-bolt route here are some pros and cons:
3-bolt SPD-SL gives a larger clipped-in area so that more power is transferred and a more secure fixing is created. However, they are more awkward to walk in. Shoes tend to be stiffer soled too. Recommended for road use primarily.
The 2-bolt SPD uses a smaller cleat which has a smaller interface with the pedal yet still transfers power efficiently. It can be walked in more easily as the cleat is recessed within an outsole with grippy tread. For this reason, it is recommended for everything else and you can ride road happily with it too. As a consequence of this versatility, you tend to find a wider variety of shoe types too. The only other thing to be aware of is that often different pedal brands will only work with their own pedal and cleat combinations - pairing Shimano pedals and Time cleats won't work, for example. They all will work with either the 2-bolt or 3-bolt standard as appropriate though.
There are two shoes on test (dhb Dorica and Northwave Core 2) that can accept either 2 or 3-bolt cleats. I have assumed that they are a 3-bolt type primarily as to try to walk in them with a 2-bolt cleat would be very difficult. They would work as a group cycling class or turbo trainer shoe where you can take them off immediately. They would give you the flexibility to use in those contexts then move to a road setup when outdoors.
HOW SHOULD I CHOOSE CYCLING SHOES?
Beyond the obvious shoe size, there's a lot to think about when choosing cycling shoes. Even sizing isn't straightforward, as you want a cycling shoe to hold your foot steady to pedal efficiently, so you might need a shoe that's a half size down from your normal.
Carbon soles will be stiffer and increase pedalling efficiency, which is great unless you're expecting to walk in them when a little more give will prove useful. Likewise, they don't have any sole grip.
You also need to make sure that you have the correct cleat holes in the sole for your intended pedal system; either two or three (or sometimes four for Speedplay cleats).
Think too about the closure system. BOA dials are efficient but expensive and single dials may not distribute pressure as evenly as dual dial systems. Ratchets and Velcro are cheaper and can be as efficient. Laces look smart and save weight, but you can't adjust them while riding.
A highly ventilated pair of cycling shoes or shoes with woven uppers will keep your feet cooler in hot conditions, but won't be so good if it's cold and damp.
Finally, there's the price: how much are you prepared to spend? There's no substitute for trying before you buy.
WHAT ARE THE IMPORTANT FEATURES OF WELL-FITTED CYCLING SHOES?
Cycling is a forefoot sport. Whilst the foot itself doesn’t generate any power, all of the watts produced elsewhere pass through your feet. So not only do poorly fitting shoes create pain, but they can also limit performance.
A former British Cycling physiotherapist and bike fitter at the eponymous Phil Burt Innovation, Phil Burt told us: “If you’re in a wrongly fitted shoe it would manifest as rubbing around the little toe, pain underneath the first and second toe where a lot of people get numbness or pins and needles.”
Touching on the performance element, he added: “The foot and ankle don’t generate any power. All the power comes from your quad and your glute. But you can lose a hell of a lot through badly fitting shoes – for example, if your foot is moving around or over pronating, you can waste a lot of energy.”
The key variables when it comes to cycling shoes are the fastening system, the sole, the cleat style, and of course the fit, although that does depend on whether you've teamed with a pair of good cycling socks.
SHOULD I TRY CYCLING SHOES ON BEFORE I BUY THEM?
The best way to check the fit of a shoe is to try it on in your local bike shop before purchasing (hopefully you'll make the purchase in the shop too!). It is better to do this in the afternoon or evening as your feet can expand slightly during the day.
Shoe sizing is pretty consistent across brands, particularly when compared to other pieces of cycling clothing – but just because your old and worn-out size 46 shoes were comfortable, it doesn't necessarily mean you can jump straight into a different brand in the same size.
Arch heights, shoe widths, and different fastening systems can all mean that you may find yourself going a size up or down when buying new cycling shoes. Flashier shoes usually come in half sizes, so you can get a good match for your feet. Lower-priced shoes, however, tend to be sold in whole sizes only - they are usually more roomy to start with as well. If your feet are between sizes, that can make choosing the right size tricky. If you're not sure, we'd suggest sizing down.
Methodology and technical info
For the 3-bolt shoes, I used the Shimano PD-R550 SPD-SL pedal (c. £65) with an SH-11 cleat (6 degrees of float) as this is not only a good pedal system but it is arguably an entry-level component that matches the shoes tested.
For the 2-bolt shoes I used the PD-M520 SPD double-sided pedal (c. £45) which has 4 deg float, as again it's a great entry-level pedal that won't break the bank. I used the SH-51 single direction release cleat but there is an SH-56 multi-release cleat available for nervous new riders.
There are many other brands to consider (Time, Look, Ritchey, Speedplay etc), however your primary choice is still 2 or 3-bolt type...
Regarding float; This is the amount of movement that a pedal and cleat have while connected. This will really help your knees in particular. Unless you know otherwise (for yourself) start with a mid setting as recommended above.
Also if you're new to clipless pedals find our guide on how to set the cleat position on road bike cycling shoes here. You'll also want to check out our how to on cycling with 'clipless' pedals. Before riding we recommend turning the tension screw right back to '-' (minus). It's often a 2.5 or 3mm Allen key bolt. Then ride up and down a quiet area and practice clipping in and out. Once you're more confident you can up the tension a little at a time. Ideally you should clip out with moderate force by turning your heel outwards but not straining your knee. If your foot gets released (over rough ground for example) without your 'command' then raise the tension a little. They're probably too loose.
It is a common fear of riders new to the system that they will stop, not be able to unclip and fall over in an ungainly fashion. Loosening the tension and practicing should help. It'll soon become second nature.
Finally, the same sock was used for all shoes and any mentions regarding fit, etc are relative to each other. I take a 43 in 'normal' shoes and am generally a size 44 with cycling shoes. All the shoes tested were a 44 except the dhb Dorica which was a 43.
Conclusion
A diverse set of shoes that span road, cross country, commuting, touring and leisure and each has its niche. It's easier to keep the groups separated for the sake of simplicity, so firstly the 3-bolt cleat road shoes. They were all pretty closely grouped price-wise as well as ride-wise, with small details that separated them. They all looked the part, with possibly an extra style point awarded to the dhb Dorica, they were all stiff enough to effectively transfer power to the pedals and they were all comfortable, with an extra point given to the NW's for the shape of their shoe. If your budget will stretch to the Shimano RS3, then it is a superb shoe with many features trickled down from shoes higher up the range but it is a bit more expensive than the others.
They were all fine to walk in; the Shimano being particularly good. For variety of colors and price point, the FLR had the field pipped. Personally, I liked the fit of the Northwave best but this is highly subjective.
The 2-bolt cleated group of shoes had a much wider selection of purposes and as such were not so directly comparable. Certainly, the low price point of the Decathlon and Muddyfox's should allow most people to try SPD pedals in a family or gentle leisure setting, or to try trickier off-roading. The Shimano's felt most at home in a commuting or touring setting but are quite capable of on or off-road use . Which leads us to the Giro Ranger which had the chops to race cross country, or ride off-road generally, but equally they could live happily as an on-road shoe. The extra cost of the XC-1 and Ranger showed itself in the quality of their construction.
How we test
Cycling Weekly's team of testers has extensive experience in assessing and writing unbiased reviews of a wide range of cycling products. Since it all involves riding, shoes are central to this and we've tested literally hundreds of different pairs.
We have testers with large feet, small feet, narrow feet and wide feet, so you can be sure that we've taken account of the differences in fit and foot comfort for a wide range of riders and understand what makes for a good pair of cycling shoes.
All our reviews use the same 1 to 5 star rating system:
5 - Superb, best in its class and we couldn’t fault it
4 - Solid product, could be improved
3 - Fine, but a few niggles let this down
2 - Acceptable, needs improvement
1 - Extremely poor, barely worked
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Over 40 years cycling in a variety of disciplines including road riding, commuting, a self-supported Land's End to John o' Groats trip, XC mountain biking and several Polaris Challenge two-day events. Adventure, escape and fun are the motivations for my riding. I also love bike and kit design and have fillet brazed a couple of framesets using Reynolds 853 steel tubing for myself. A very satisfying experience to ride your own bespoke bike!
Height: 180cm
Weight: 66kg
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