Beer, flags and barbecues: a day on the maddest climb in the Basque Country
Once the Tour de France is done and dusted, the sight and sounds of screaming Basque fans on the slopes of the Jaizkibel lingered on
Long after the Tour de France has rolled out of Spain, the gargantuan noise generated by the vast hordes of Basque fans on the roads of stage two will be reverberating throughout my ears in the days to come.
I’ve sat and listened to riders like Tom Pidcock describe the feeling and sensation of riding through huge crowds of fans on the roads of some of the biggest bike races in the world, and often wondered to myself, what must that feel like? What kind of emotions, sensations and feelings are pounding through your body as you punish yourself on some of Europe’s steepest roads roared on by thousands of roadside spectators
Well, stage two of this year’s Tour was the closest I was ever going to get to experiencing that as I, like millions of other cyclists, will of course never get the chance to ride the Tour. Instead I got to join the race convoy for the day in the team Africa Rising press car, driving through the crowds bound for the slopes of the infamous Jaizkibel and the beautiful coastal town of San Sebastián and I really couldn’t have picked a better moment to experience it.
When each of the climbs on the route arrived, you could feel the energy and feel the sheer euphoria pulsating through the air as the vast seas of orange parted in front of the car, with the smells of barbecued steaks and other grilled meats wafting across.
A vegetarian’s nightmare, although even the most ardent of non-meat eaters may well have caved in to the smells of Basque roadside cooking in that particular moment.
Once the slopes of the Jaizkibel – made famous by the annual Clásica San Sebastián – arrived, it was something else altogether. I’ll admit it, at times it was genuinely slightly scary, even in the confines of a Mini convertible.
The Jaizkibel is just a bump in the road compared to the likes of the Col du Tourmalet or Alpe d’Huez, but what it lacks in size it more than makes up for with the atmosphere in the Klasikoa every year and it was no different yesterday.
As we moved through the masses - almost moving at walking pace at times - the noise was simply deafening. Grown men and women, many clad in the colours of Real Sociedad, lent into the car, roaring us on our way like a swarm of excited bees around an open jar of honey.
My hair was ruffled, beer, water and who knows what else were thrown over the car and my hand was left ringing as I high-fived what felt like a thousand cheering and smiling people as we passed by, all getting set for the riders' arrival.
Of course, keeping well back once the riders arrive is paramount, but this is part of what the Tour’s all about. Singing, dancing, roadside picnics and the anticipation of that fleeting moment when your heroes flash past. They are all just some of the characteristics that define the carnivalesque atmosphere of the world’s greatest bike race.
If the atmosphere was exploding like this for us, it was going to be amplified in a matter of moments when Tadej Pogačar and Jonas Vingegaard powered to the summit, going head to head for the bonus seconds on offer.
Minutes later when the broom wagon rolled through no one passed without a scream of encouragement as the sprinters went through their own personal battle just to make it over the summit of the climb. The party didn’t stop there as groups of fans bundled into camper vans desperate to catch the finale all together.
Fuelled by the adrenaline of the Jaizkibel we made our way back into town in search of Pintxos, ice cream and the cool breeze of the Bay of Biscay, amazed by the atmosphere generated by Basques of this year’s Grand Départ.
This was their moment, their time in the spotlight to further stake a climb to being the best fans in the cycling world and boy, they certainly delivered.
Gora Euskadi, vive Le Tour, and the road winds on to Bayonne.
Get The Leadout Newsletter
The latest race content, interviews, features, reviews and expert buying guides, direct to your inbox!
Thank you for reading 20 articles this month* Join now for unlimited access
Enjoy your first month for just £1 / $1 / €1
*Read 5 free articles per month without a subscription
Join now for unlimited access
Try first month for just £1 / $1 / €1
Tom has been writing for Cycling Weekly since 2022 and his news stories, rider interviews and features appear both online and in the magazine.
Since joining the team, he has reported from some of professional cycling's biggest races and events including the Tour de France and the World Championships in Glasgow. He has also covered races elsewhere across the world.
As well as on the ground reporting, Tom writes race reports from the men's and women's WorldTour and helps with coverage of UK domestic cycling.
-
MADE, world’s largest handmade bike show, returns to Portland this August; tickets on sale now
MADE, the world’s largest celebration of the art and craftsmanship of bicycle building, will return for its second edition in Portland, Oregon, this August.
By Anne-Marije Rook Published
-
We tried the Santini Unisex jersey and it made me challenge my preconceived prejudices
As a concept, unisex clothing sounds like a compromise that inhibits personal choice. Santini's take, with its clever design, high-tech fabrics and appealing hues, is anything but
By Hannah Bussey Published
-
It's time to stop expecting so much of Ineos Grenadiers at the Tour de France
The British team are always under pressure to match their past best, but it’s not going to happen anytime soon
By Adam Becket Published
-
'A bigger result than winning': Jonas Vingegaard hails second place at the Tour de France
It turns out second place is not always 'first loser'
By James Shrubsall Published
-
'Even if I never come back to the Tour de France I will be satisfied': Tadej Pogačar revels in third victory
Three Tour de France wins before turning 26, the Giro-Tour double, the suggestion of a triple crown. Records tumble for the Slovenian
By Adam Becket Published
-
Remco Evenepoel: No one should doubt me anymore
The Tour de France's third-placed finisher suggests that he will have to reduce his time trial work if he is to beat Tadej Pogačar
By Chris Marshall-Bell Published
-
Tadej Pogačar: 'There will always be doubts... but cycling is the cleanest sport'
Tour de France champion addresses critics, saying it would be "super stupid" to dope
By Adam Becket Published
-
How Tadej Pogačar created history and won the Giro d'Italia-Tour de France double
A journey that was supposedly fraught with risk and uncertainty was anything but for Giro d'Italia and Tour de France victor Tadej Pogačar
By Chris Marshall-Bell Published
-
Tadej Pogačar obliterates field in stage 21 time trial to seal his third Tour de France victory and prestigious Giro-Tour double
Slovenian wins a sixth stage of this edition by more than a minute to top off imperious Tour
By Flo Clifford Published
-
How much prize money was on offer at the 2024 Tour de France?
There is around €2.3 million up for grabs in the 2024 race
By Adam Becket Published